Difference between expensive and cheaper recurves?

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\r\n Difference between expensive and cheaper recurves?\r\n

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\r\n Please pardon if this is a question that\'s been asked repeatedly, but I can\'t find anything. I have a Samick Sage recurve but was curious what the difference is with this vs the Olympic or competition recurves I\'ve seen. I\'m guessing a lot has to do with the materials used, but why is so-and-so better than whatchamacallit?
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\r\nI know, this is a fairly generic question but I\'m just curious what makes one bow more accurate (better?) than another...\r\n
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    \r\n I bought the SF Axiom and compared to expensive "expert" bows I can tell no difference. It shoots amazing and the limbs were $80 and the riser $90. So of course there is a difference but not as big as some people say.\r\n
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    \r\n The sammicks are great beginner bows, they shoot well for the $$$. In all honesty what you will see with the more expensive bows is bells and whistles....Better wood choices, custom risers, etc....Also you have the option of getting an ILF setup where you can get limbs from many different sources.\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by BowmanJay\r\n View Post\r\n
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    The sammicks are great beginner bows, they shoot well for the $$$. In all honesty what you will see with the more expensive bows is bells and whistles....Better wood choices, custom risers, etc....Also you have the option of getting an ILF setup where you can get limbs from many different sources.
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    \nI agree with this.
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    \nI\'m a confirmed custom recurve junkie and having owned many, there can be differences in cast and vibration, aside from the aesthetic value of the premier bows. I have had and still have a bow that is the "holy grail" to some and it really is not that great a performer compared to my other bows. I keep it mainly because it\'s a classic.
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    \nFrom a flat out performance standpoint I don\'t think you have to spend a lot to get a lot. Look at how many great reviews you read on the Sage or Hoyt Excel. Kegan puts out a bow that outperforms just about anything in it\'s class from what I\'ve read, and at a very reasonable cost.
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    \nWhen you look at the expensive bows, it\'s mostly frosting. I will say that my prettiest bows are also my best performing bows in terms of speed and lack of vibration. Only you can decide if you like a lot of frosting. I know I do...\r\n
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    \r\n accuraccy is mostly the shooter not the bow. A expert shooting a samick sage could do very well. Some people like fancy an pretty bows. But for most people a low to med cost bow is all you will need. An some people like to try out different bows you see a lot of expensive for sale. Also usally longer an heavier weight bows not poundage are easier to shoot.\r\n
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    \r\n Re: Difference between expensive and cheaper recurves?\r\n

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    \r\n Nothing but name brands. I shoot a black widow, just because I want to. I shoot it very well, but I have also shot some samick bows just as well.
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    \nSent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2\r\n
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    \r\n I guess it comes down to what I can afford, but it must feel natural in my hand, how I shoot it, and then looks, I\'ve had to wipe my eyes, & put many bows back on the rack after looking at the price. But when I win the lotto, & throw away my crying towel, all them custom bow makers will be working some long hours for sure, LOL\r\n
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    \r\n Re: Difference between expensive and cheaper recurves?\r\n

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    \r\n Let me add this.....
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    \n(BTW, I plan on starting a thread called "I have the perfect bow" later when I have time. Make sure to check it out"
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    \nBut, what I want to tell you now is this. Get a bow that you are a little attracted to, and that you know performs decently(cast, vibration, etc)
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    \nThen, put everything you got into it. I have learned over the last several years that when I commit to ONE bow, shoot it exclusively and learn how the bow likes to be shot, I can shoot darn good with anything.
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    \nGet what you can afford, then quit shopping, browsing classifieds, and reading any threads that compare bows or that would tell you something issue better.
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    \nForm, consistency, and confidence will outshoot any bow!
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    \nSent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by vulcan12\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Let me add this.....
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    \r\n(BTW, I plan on starting a thread called "I have the perfect bow" later when I have time. Make sure to check it out"
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    \r\nBut, what I want to tell you now is this. Get a bow that you are a little attracted to, and that you know performs decently(cast, vibration, etc)
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    \r\nThen, put everything you got into it. I have learned over the last several years that when I commit to ONE bow, shoot it exclusively and learn how the bow likes to be shot, I can shoot darn good with anything.
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    \r\nGet what you can afford, then quit shopping, browsing classifieds, and reading any threads that compare bows or that would tell you something issue better.
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    \r\nForm, consistency, and confidence will outshoot any bow!
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    \r\nSent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
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    \nWell said. I went through the "I want one of everything!" until I found the one that works the best for me....and it was less than $250 delivered. A couple of hi-dollar bows were sent packing when I finally realized that cost isn\'t the tell-all and rack decoration doesn\'t put any meat in the freezer.\r\n
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    \r\n The Sage will shoot better than most of us archers ever will. I\'ve been down the expensive bow route...not knockin expensive bows if that\'s what one prefers but I\'ve found that the Sage shoots better than a lot of custom wood riser bows I\'ve owned..and I\'ve owned a lot of em.\r\n
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    \r\n Sweet!
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    \r\nSo basically it comes down to skill and, if you choose to go that route, accessories? I was thinking, once I started to get better with the bare bow, I\'d get a set of sights and maybe a stabilizer, but that\'s a ways down the road.
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    \r\nEverything I\'ve read about the Sage says that it\'s a great bow so I\'m excited. I\'d hate to have to keep buying new bows, I\'d rather spend my money on good accessories that could, if I need to, move those to another bow if/when I grow out of this one.
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    \r\nSeems that might not be a problem. Works great for me!!\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by ladyeclectic\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Sweet!
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    \nSo basically it comes down to skill and, if you choose to go that route, accessories? I was thinking, once I started to get better with the bare bow, I\'d get a set of sights and maybe a stabilizer, but that\'s a ways down the road.
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    \nEverything I\'ve read about the Sage says that it\'s a great bow so I\'m excited. I\'d hate to have to keep buying new bows, I\'d rather spend my money on good accessories that could, if I need to, move those to another bow if/when I grow out of this one.
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    \nSeems that might not be a problem. Works great for me!!
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    \nYou\'ve got the right attitude! Keep it up. That\'s the attitude that will keep you in the sport and have you improve your shooting. I\'m not sure what track you\'re on, hunting or target, but the Sage is a great all arounder. The shiny olympic type bows are designed for hardcore target shooters to get the maximum out of them for that type of shooting...release feel, limb design/ cast etc. On the other end, the area I happen to play in, is the hunting world..there you have all the custom bowyers who make exotic wood creations...these are works of handmade functional art...they won\'t necessarily outshoot a Sage, but they are just pretty and beautiful and imbued with the soul of their maker...like any artwork. They have less to do with performance and good shooting and more to do with uniqueness and tradition. But essential to good shooting? No.\r\n
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    \r\n Difference between expensive and cheaper recurves?\r\n

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    \r\n High dollar target bows will shoot with much less vibration, and matched limbs will be more consistent for Brady Ellison, not so much for us\r\n
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    \r\n The difference between expensive and so called cheap bows is just a status symbol in my opinion. I can shoot the cheapest bow you can find and hit the target just as well as I can with a 1200 dollar custom built beauty. That is right the custom bows are a looker while they still do not shoot any better than a 150 dollar bow. It is all in what you can afford and your desires. It does not upset me to scratch a 150 dollar bow but let me scratch a 1200 Cadillac and I would cry. Also if you got caught in the rain with a very expensive bow you would be having a panic attack to get to the truck and forget the hunt. Decide what you want in a bow and your use of the tool then decide what you can stand to loose if things turn sour as they sometimes do while hunting such as dropping the bow, rain storm, snow storm etc. make your choice and don\'t look back or second guess your choice. I hunt with a board bow , cane arrows with flint tips all made by me and I have about 30 bucks tied up in it and enjoy it as much as the fellow shooting a black widow or big jim bow. It is all in what you perceive as enjoyment, as that is what all of us are chasing and disguise it as hunting. My set up will take down a hog or deer the same as an expensive set up.\r\n
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    \r\n Check out Jimmy B\'s video of him shooting the samick long bow. He sure makes those low dollar bows look good LOL. It is just a matter of what you want to spend. They will all look great in the right hands.\r\n
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    \r\n The bows in the olympics are very long and heavy compared to the Sage. (Samick has made lots of olympic winners too.)
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    \nAs people have said, "it\'s the shooter, not the bow", but different bows are better at different things. So there\'s lots of choices out there.
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    \nA precision machined aluminum riser with various stainless steel threaded inserts weighing 3 or 4 pounds with a 30" stabilizer rod will not help you shooting at carp in two feet of water. And a thirty-year old $50 cragslist bow with a few scuffs but shoots great (AND floats!) will not be much good at targets 70 meters away.
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    \nShoot \'em all, I say. I wish I could stick with one sometimes, but which one? \r\n
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    \r\n I find a huge difference between inexpensive and expensive bows, though not always what may be expected (or hoped for). There can be a sublime elegance in the work of an expert bowyer that presents great pleasure to the archer - though not necessarily for specific practical, quantifiable reasons. We interact with our equipment physically and mentally and form a bond with our tools. I enjoy all my bows, but some have an essence that is indescribably wondrous. And, unfortunately for my purse, steeper money has indeed bought some magnificent-feeling shooters. The loose of the beholder is the ultimate bottom line with any bow.\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Thin Man\r\n View Post\r\n
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    I find a huge difference between inexpensive and expensive bows, though not always what may be expected (or hoped for). There can be a sublime elegance in the work of an expert bowyer that presents great pleasure to the archer - though not necessarily for specific practical, quantifiable reasons. We interact with our equipment physically and mentally and form a bond with our tools. I enjoy all my bows, but some have an essence that is indescribably wondrous. And, unfortunately for my purse, steeper money has indeed bought some magnificent-feeling shooters. The loose of the beholder is the ultimate bottom line with any bow.
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    \nYes! A metaphysical perspective on Archery Talk...I love it. Adornment is meaningless to some, an unadulterated pleasure for others.
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    \r\nI really enjoy a beautiful custom bow, rifle, or shotgun that has been used and lovingly taken care of over the years, complete with all the little scars and reminders of places its been. No safe queens for me, like you said they\'re tools first.\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by ladyeclectic\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Please pardon if this is a question that\'s been asked repeatedly, but I can\'t find anything. I have a Samick Sage recurve but was curious what the difference is with this vs the Olympic or competition recurves I\'ve seen. I\'m guessing a lot has to do with the materials used, but why is so-and-so better than whatchamacallit?
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    \r\nI know, this is a fairly generic question but I\'m just curious what makes one bow more accurate (better?) than another...
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    \nThere is a difference in tunability in an Olympic recurve and a Samick Sage, most Olympic recurves are usually also longer, commonly 66 - 70 inches depending on the riser size and limbs, which will affect how they feel on your fingers and draw.
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    \r\nAn Olympic ILF bow is also a very flexible platform as you can use many different brand limbs, sizes, quality and weight.
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    \r\nMost ILF bows will also have more options for accessories, whether they be clicker plates, various stabilizer fittings, etc. Riser material and design should also make a difference in the feel or how snappy a bow feels.
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    \r\nLike Arrowwood already mentioned though, it depends on how you\'re going to use it. I thought the bowfishing example vs shooting 70 meters was perfect.
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    \r\nFor myself, I\'ve found the ILF platform hard to beat in flexibility.\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by c-lo\r\n View Post\r\n
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    There is a difference in tunability in an Olympic recurve and a Samick Sage, most Olympic recurves are usually also longer, commonly 66 - 70 inches depending on the riser size and limbs, which will affect how they feel on your fingers and draw.
    \n
    \nAn Olympic ILF bow is also a very flexible platform as you can use many different brand limbs, sizes, quality and weight.
    \n
    \nMost ILF bows will also have more options for accessories, whether they be clicker plates, various stabilizer fittings, etc. Riser material and design should also make a difference in the feel or how snappy a bow feels.
    \n
    \nLike Arrowwood already mentioned though, it depends on how you\'re going to use it. I thought the bowfishing example vs shooting 70 meters was perfect.
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    \nFor myself, I\'ve found the ILF platform hard to beat in flexibility.
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    \nc-lo\'s post sums it up pretty well, and after a lot of research, it is the reason I opted for a ILF Olympic style bow for my first rig. I\'m a novice archer myself, having just started in September. When I took lessons from a local club, the bows used were mostly Samick Polaris. Fun to shoot and appropriate for beginners. I also knew that I wanted to focus on target shooting, so I gravitated to the Oly style riser and limbs. My son shoots with Samick Sage, and it is an excellent bow, and you\'ll be able to enjoy it for some time yet.
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    \nMy point of view as a novice archer ... you don\'t have to spend a lot of $$ to get started, and there\'s no rush to accessorize. I spent just a bit over $200 for my riser, limbs and string. I added an arrow rest, tab, arm guard, quiver, and of course my arrows. You\'ve got the basics to get you on the right path. As for me, as I develop my form and consistency, I\'ll start to add more to my rig, like a plunger, a sight, and maybe some stabilizers. But I\'ll do that over time.\r\n
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    Shooting a Win & Win Winact VT riser and 28# Samick Universal limbs, custom made string,
    \r\nShibuya Ultima RC sight (standard), Shibuya DX plunger, W&W SF arrow rest,
    \r\nCartel Midas XD Nano Carbon stabilizers, AAE adjustable magnetic clicker, Black Mamba Venom 2 tab,
    \r\nCX Medallion Pro 710, CX X-Buster 700, & Easton Platinum Plus 1716 arrows.
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by larry tom\r\n View Post\r\n
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    My point of view as a novice archer ... you don\'t have to spend a lot of $$ to get started, and there\'s no rush to accessorize. I spent just a bit over $200 for my riser, limbs and string. I added an arrow rest, tab, arm guard, quiver, and of course my arrows. You\'ve got the basics to get you on the right path. As for me, as I develop my form and consistency, I\'ll start to add more to my rig, like a plunger, a sight, and maybe some stabilizers. But I\'ll do that over time.
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    \nWell, I have a teensy confession to make: I already know I fall into the category that loves this sport and want to take it to the next level, so yesterday I purchased via the AT classifieds a W&W SF Forged Plus riser and, once I get it, will be setting it up with some limbs and using that. The Sage is wonderful and, until then, I\'ll be using it nonstop (no seriously, I\'m at the archery lanes EVERY day except Sunday, only because that\'s when they\'re closed lol), but I agree with what everyone\'s saying and want to get serious. Well, okay, not $2000-bow-serious but get something that can hopefully grow with me. I\'m also contacting some (not-so-local) coaches to set up future dates after the new year.
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    \r\nUntil then, I\'ll be focusing on form and what I can learn here. Spent the whole day today shooting at 20y, literally for seven hours straight. My shoulders and back are limp but not sore, and I\'ll be taking tomorrow off to let them rest then jumping right back in. Archery is AWESOME!!!\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by ladyeclectic\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Well, I have a teensy confession to make: I already know I fall into the category that loves this sport and want to take it to the next level, so yesterday I purchased via the AT classifieds a W&W SF Forged Plus riser and, once I get it, will be setting it up with some limbs and using that. ........
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    \n..... Spent the whole day today shooting at 20y, literally for seven hours straight. My shoulders and back are limp but not sore, and I\'ll be taking tomorrow off to let them rest then jumping right back in. Archery is AWESOME!!!
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    \nWelcome to the addiction \r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by ladyeclectic\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Well, I have a teensy confession to make: I already know I fall into the category that loves this sport and want to take it to the next level, so yesterday I purchased via the AT classifieds a W&W SF Forged Plus riser and, once I get it, will be setting it up with some limbs and using that. The Sage is wonderful and, until then, I\'ll be using it nonstop (no seriously, I\'m at the archery lanes EVERY day except Sunday, only because that\'s when they\'re closed lol), but I agree with what everyone\'s saying and want to get serious. Well, okay, not $2000-bow-serious but get something that can hopefully grow with me. I\'m also contacting some (not-so-local) coaches to set up future dates after the new year.
    \n
    \nUntil then, I\'ll be focusing on form and what I can learn here. Spent the whole day today shooting at 20y, literally for seven hours straight. My shoulders and back are limp but not sore, and I\'ll be taking tomorrow off to let them rest then jumping right back in. Archery is AWESOME!!!
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    \nCongrats on the new bow! Good move on buying used. I\'m a classified junkie myself. Recurves and longbows hold their value well after the initial depreciation so even if one doesn\'t work out you can usually get most, if not all, of your money back. Lots of people try, buy, trade, sell, several bows until they find what suits them. There aren\'t many bad bows around, but the longer you are in the game the more refined your "taste" becomes.
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    \nIf you ever develop a taste for "custom" bows you are lost...so many beautiful bows going through the classifeds...put down the credit card and step away from the computer...lol...\r\n
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    \r\n would a cheap bow keep up with this:
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    \nNot only that they can drop arrows in targets to win tournaments, so fast is not always a miss...\r\n
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    Join our Facebook page "Border Archery"
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    \r\n My experience is this....most of the accuracy humanly achievable is primarily the archer...BUT...equipment choices can definitely improve an archer\'s accuracy.
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    \r\nThere\'s a reason why there are different classes in competition for equipment choice.
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    \r\nSome equipment choices can do more to help an archer\'s accuracy than others.
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    \r\nI use to strictly shoot Black Widow bows off the shelf for hunting, competition and shooting demos...until David Sosa of DAS bows sent me a prototype of his bow to try out.
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    \r\nAt first I didn\'t think much of the DAS with it\'s metal riser and design. I wasn\'t the least bit drawn to these type of bows...UNTIL...I shot it. I immediately knew I had something special in my hands that I had never experienced before at that level.
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    \r\nMy Black Widow has found a spot in my closet while I know strictly shoot my DAS for everything. My scores increased by about 5%...which may not be much to some people but it opened my eyes.
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    \r\nI personally believe it was a combination of things that helped improve my score such as using an elevated rest and cushion plunger, metal riser and Olympic grade limbs.
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    \r\nSo...Yes...equipment can make a difference but it can and will vary from person to person. The key is to find out what works best for your goals, personality and abilities as an archer.
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by BLACK WOLF\r\n View Post\r\n
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    At first I didn\'t think much of the DAS with it\'s metal riser and design. I wasn\'t the least bit drawn to these type of bows...UNTIL...I shot it. I immediately knew I had something special in my hands that I had never experienced before at that level.
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    \nLike Ray, I was a die-hard Widow shooter. Wanted to try something different so I sold the Widow\'s and got into a Shafer Silvertip kick. Great shooting bows but still wanted to try something else. So I got into vintage bows and really liked that(still do,BTW).
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    \nBut earlier this year I picked up an ILF bow...TT Pinnacle riser w/recurve limbs and knew the possibilities right away. So after 8 months I now have 4 ILF risers and 4 sets of limbs. My latest is a TT Titan riser with Kaya carbon foam limbs. This bow shoots lights out!!! It\'s the most accurate shooting bow I\'ve ever owned, or shot for that matter.
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    \nI still string up the old Grizzly or an old Shakespeare and enjoy shooting them and if the right Widow came up, I\'d probably jump on it. But right now, when I feel like shooting I usually string up one of my ILF bows\r\n
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    \r\n Often expensive vs inexpensive is measured in the production process, i.e. custom hand built vs mass produced assembly line. Sometimes the brand itself increases cost (Harley Davidson is a perfect example) In the end, Ray summs it up well in his last line above.\r\n
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    \r\n Just joined and truly enjoy reading all the suggestions, insights and whatnot.
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    \r\nA bit of background, at the suggestion of the local shop, (proprietess is an ex-olympic coach), in late May and at her suggestion bought a Samick "Polaris" set-up with 35lb limbs, truth, I don\'t know my draw length at this time (i\'m 5\'6" male), I will ask. Later, Added an inexpensive sight and a kisser button, again, at her suggestion.
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    \r\nAs a rank beginner, I am enjoying this bow, using it in the local 20 yard league (18 meter), last two scores were 236 and 231 (yeah, I dropped 5 points) after starting at 200 in the first meet. That all being said, seems Samick\'s "Sage" riser is discussed frequently as a beginner bow (riser), how does it compare with the Polaris riser for a beginner? Any real difference performance wise, other than a few dollars cost? I guess I\'m already hooked somewhat.
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    \r\nOh, and thank all of you for a very informative discussion group.\r\n
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    \r\n Dano, that\'s good shooting, you\'re off to a great start.
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    \nThe Polaris has different length possibilities, white limbs, and lower weights (13 - 40#). The Sage has limb weights 25-60#, 62" length only, and black limbs.
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    \r\n Cool...I won\'t worry about upgrading at this point with the Polaris. Arrowwood, thanks for the (to me) relief to know that i will be able to compete for some time to come.\r\n
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    \r\n Most of the time the extra cost is cosmetics.\r\n
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    \r\nTough question to answer, but here\'s a shot.
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    \r\nWith certain types of bows (excluding "customs"), the more expensive bows may feel somewhat smoother on the draw, and the chronograph "may" show a slight speed increase. They may also have additional tuning options. Other factors, things like materials, balance options and torsional stability will be present but will not be evident or exploitable by a novice or intermediate level shooter. That just reality.
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    \r\nI excluded "customs" because in the trad world, exotic woods and furniture-like finishes certainly add to cost, but in reality don\'t make a bow shoot any better.
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    \r\nThe type of archery I\'m most involved with these days can get very expensive, very quickly. I let my students know, if I tell them to buy something, they need it and that there are some things that are a total waste of money, either at their present level, or in general.
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    “Simple and innocent, however, as it (the bow) appears, and capable as it is of being a trusty friend and ally, a bow is at the same time a watchful enemy, ready to take advantage of the smallest slight.”
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Viper1\r\n View Post\r\n
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    The type of archery I\'m most involved with these days can get very expensive, very quickly. I let my students know, if I tell them to buy something, they need it and that there are some things that are a total waste of money, either at their present level, or in general.
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    \nOkay, now you made me curious. :P I\'m looking more into target shooting, I\'ll leave the hunting to my fiancé and his compound (every deer I see is still Bambi and too cute to kill - dunno if that\'ll ever change much to the Dude\'s dismay lol). For the beginner who wants to do her best, what would you recommend? I saw your First Recurve thread and am seriously looking into an ILF riser but are there things I can do/buy that would help me at this point using the Sage?
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    \r\n Sara -
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    \r\nIf you are comfortable shooting it (weight-wise), the Sage is fine. You are now working on form and consistency and the Sage will handle that. The sling and a small stabilizer will help, and you can make the latter from parts from ACE hardware or Lowes. As in the link, the ILF rigs would be a good next step, but which riser and limb length depends on your draw length.
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    \r\nWithout knowing your draw length, 35# may or may not be too heavy for you with real target work That would be my biggest concern. Most of my adult female target shooters start in the 20# range (+/-).
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    “Simple and innocent, however, as it (the bow) appears, and capable as it is of being a trusty friend and ally, a bow is at the same time a watchful enemy, ready to take advantage of the smallest slight.”
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    \r\n Viper: I\'m 5\'8" with a center-chest-to-wrist measurement between 26.75-27". I started out on a 30# bow from the shop then got my 35# Sage and so far it doesn\'t hurt me even after 2+ hours shooting. In hindsight I\'d probably go with 30# limbs, but don\'t feel overbowed at my current level. I really do enjoy the Sage (although I\'m still trying to figure out a good grip) but am thinking of trying an ILF riser in the not-so-distant future. I just purchased some 1816 aluminum Easton\'s and I\'m planning to install 125grain tips and 3-4" fletchings once they arrive, but am not sure how long I\'ll trim the arrows to.
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    \nSeriously though, if you have ANY advice to impart I\'d be very appreciative, I don\'t know ANY traditional/recurve shooters around here!\r\n
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    \r\n only a small majority can tell the difference and what a more expensive bow will door them, when you reach that level it will help you,more than a less expensive one,and ray i still remember the day you shot my metal handle bow you looked at me like i was crazy, but ,after you shot it ,i could see their was no turning back\r\n
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    \r\n For me there is definitely a difference.
    \r\nGoing to a barebow specific target riser and good limbs was a huge step-up in performance. I am sure I would not be able to perform at the same level with gear which wasn\'t as well made or suited to my purpose.
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    \r\nThat said there is a lot you can learn from something like a Sage, just don\'t expect it to take you as far as your potential will allow. Eventually it will become a limiting factor.
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    \r\n Sara -
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    \r\nNext time you\'re at the range have someone measure your draw length with a draw check arrow on your bow and again on the lightest bow they have (hopefully about 10 -15#). The DL should be the same. (Don\'t go by calculations - hit or miss at best.)
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    \r\nIf you are anchoring and holding at anchor for a few seconds with the Sage, you might be fine, but you would also be the exception, in my experience anyway.
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    \r\nOK, unless you\'re leaving the arrows full length, 1816s will most likely tune stiff, but again without an accurate DL, gonna be hard to say.
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    \r\nHard to say on the grip thing. Some people and some bow grips just don\'t get along. In person, it would be easy to try repositioning your hand on the grip, over the net, not so much. Basically you want the bow to "fall" into the life line on your palm and find it\'s most natural position - again, think pushing a refrigerator.
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  • \r\n\r\n\r\n\n\n'; pd[1066018881] = '\n\n\r\n
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    \r\n those that are able to pay for the expensive bow and want it will probably buy it. Those who are on a limited cash flow will buy a cheap bow if they want to shoot one. The one that shoots the best is the one you can shoot. Expensive is not necessarily anything other than a higher price tag.
    \r\nBut we all know the real thrill is casting the arrow and hearing the thump.\r\n
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    \r\n Really appreciate the help Viper. The shop has (had?) a 25# PSE LH recurve bow for sale (looked a lot like the Sage, don\'t know the model tho), maybe I can see if they\'ll let me try it out? I definitely hold my position for several seconds at a time when aiming and while its a strain, I don\'t think it\'s terribly difficult. Since I have it, I\'ll continue using the Sage but as soon as I meet someone else with a recurve who looks like they know what they\'re doing, I\'ll (scare them away lol) see if they can help me a bit.
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    \r\nHmm, maybe I should put something on the coaches forum, even one lesson with a certified coach might be better than continuing with my patchwork knowledge...
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by ladOR\r\n View Post\r\n
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    those that are able to pay for the expensive bow and want it will probably buy it. Those who are on a limited cash flow will buy a cheap bow if they want to shoot one. The one that shoots the best is the one you can shoot. Expensive is not necessarily anything other than a higher price tag.
    \r\nBut we all know the real thrill is casting the arrow and hearing the thump.
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    \nHeh, true dat. \r\n
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    \r\n The guys are doing their best to describe the difference but the only real way to tell is to shoot a lot of different bows and see for yourself. At the big shoots you can do this and most archers will be glad to let you fling a few arrows with their bows they are so proud of. Or if you aren\'t able to attend a big shoot attend local 3-D shoots and hope a good showing of traditional archers show up so you can shoot a few different bows. A lot of the differences are intangible and subjective so what feels great to you may not feel so great to someone else.
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    \r\nI don\'t own one but every Wes Wallace Mentor bow I\'ve ever shot felt GREAT. Solid, smooth, fast and hard hitting. I should treat myself to one one day.\r\n
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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2012
      Location
      Central California
      Posts
      81

      Difference between expensive and cheaper recurves?

      Please pardon if this is a question that's been asked repeatedly, but I can't find anything. I have a Samick Sage recurve but was curious what the difference is with this vs the Olympic or competition recurves I've seen. I'm guessing a lot has to do with the materials used, but why is so-and-so better than whatchamacallit?

      I know, this is a fairly generic question but I'm just curious what makes one bow more accurate (better?) than another...

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