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Hey Nuts &Bolts!

25K views 248 replies 92 participants last post by  jrdrees 
#1 ·
Hey Alan, how about starting a daily or weekly thread where you teach us something new everytime?? You choose the topic. That way we wont have to stalk your posts to find the info that we all crave. We all appreciate the stuff you teach us. This would just give us a daily or weekly lesson. Pretty please????
 
#10 ·
I'm semi-retired,
working only half time.

I love to research a questiion,
so just post up a question,
or send me a pm...

and then,
I can come up with the answer,
or suggestions to try.
the problem is that we dont know what we dont know. for example: i sent you a pm about something. i cant remember what. in your reply you said" after you have micro adjusted your draw length" and then u answered my question. but then that just opened the whole new can o worms about micro adjusting draw length. so it makes me wonder how big is the pile of info you have to give that we dont even know to ask about. so i guess i will start it here for everyone. Alan, please explain micro adjusting draw length and why would we. Thanks! whos got the next question?
 
#9 ·
Alan is like "Underdog" and the rest of us are "Polly Purebred",he seems to always come to our rescue when we are in trouble,if there is anyone whom is more helpfull then we are truly blessed............Thank You ,Alan,and may the "force"always be with you.
 
#11 ·
P&Y is right;kind like when we were in school and ask the teacher how to spell something and she says"look it up in the dictionary"...Kind hard to look it up if you can't spell it,,,,DUH!!!
 
#16 ·
Micro - Adjusting your draw length....(continued)

So,
I see lots of threads,
which basically are asking about LEFT paper tears, RIGHT paper tears,
bareshafts not hitting with field points,
fixed blade broadheads missing to the RIGHT of field points (RIGHT handed shooter).

So,
these are reasons why we need to MICRO-ADJUST the draw length,
in amounts MUCH less than the 1/2-inch EASY adjustments provided by the manufacturer.
 
#17 ·
Micro - Adjusting your draw length....(continued)

So,
let's take a look at what adjusting your draw length
is REALLY trying to do.

Anytime you adjust the bow Draw Length setting,
we are ALL hoping to improve the size of our arrow groups.

We want our fletched arrows to have the SAME point of impact.
We want the fixed blade broadheads to have the SAME point of impact as our field points.

So,
we need to talk about ALIGNMENT.
 
#18 ·
Micro - Adjusting your draw length....(continued)

ALIGNMENT.

Here is a REAL WORLD case.
Young man was sold a bow that was WAY too long for bow draw length setting.
NOT even close.

A shame, actually.




So,
let's take a CLOSER LOOK at the ALIGNMENT of the release side forearm.

THINK of the release side FOREARM...

as a flashlight
as a laser pointer.

So,
this young man
has his LASER POINTER aiming WAY WAY off to the RIGHT
of where he has the fletched field point arrow aiming.

So,
if he were to shoot through PAPER,
the result would be a MASSIVE left PAPER TEAR.

So,
the usual advice he would get:

a) move your arrow rest to the right
b) stop torquing your bow hand
c) get a stiffer arrow
d) a FEW, might recommend adding a say 2 twists to the TOP AXLE, end loop on the LEFT...and remove 2 twists on the TOP AXLE, end loop on the RIGHT


When trying to understand a concept,
imagine the EXTREME CASE,
and then,
you understand the FUNDAMENTALS.

So,
unfortunately,
this is a REAL WORLD CASE.

a) moving the arrow rest to the RIGHT, to FIX a left paper tear...is respectfully, CHEATING.
....what you accomplish by moving the arrow rest to RIGHT, to fix a SMALL left paper tear, is trying to get the arrow rest to LINEUP with the arrow FLIGHT PATH
....if we have a SMALL mis-alignment of the LASER POINTER (release side forearm), then, moving the arrow rest to the RIGHT WILL WORK
....the SMALL mis-alignment of the LASER POINTER (release side forearm) pulls the bowstring SIDEWAYS to the LEFT and, when the BACK END of the arrow is PULLED LEFT, then the FRONT END is PUSHED RIGHT

So, for this young man,
the MIS-ALIGNMENT is SOOOOOOOOO SEVERE...

this is the post you see on ArcheryTalk,
where the Fella says...."I moved my arrow rest ALL the way to the RIGHT...I moved my arrow rest ALL the way to the LEFT...and I'm still getting this MASSIVE LEFT PAPER TEAR".

So,
the REAL FIX, for a TRULY MASSIVE LEFT paper tear (assuming a RIGHT HANDED shooter)
is to FIX the alignment of the LASER POINTER (release side forearm).

So,
the REAL FIX is to get this young man to this alignment position....




So,
the FIRST STEP
is to use the available 1/2-inch draw length changes...

maybe he is lucky and was sold an ADJUSTABLE draw length bow...where he just has to move a screw to a different hole on the ADJUSTABLE DL module...

maybe he is a little LESS lucky, and has to go back to the point of sale, and swap out DL modules and find the BEST size of DL module, in the SHORTER direction

maybe he is TRULY unlucky, and was sold a FIXED draw length cam, where he now needs to find the CORRECT SIZE of FIXED draw length cam,
and completely new rigging to match the SHORTER FIXED draw length cam.

So,
he gets the SHORTER DL setting adjusted on his bow...

but,
he has gone from a MASSIVE LEFT TEAR when paper tuning...

to a MILD LEFT paper tear, when paper tuning.
 
#19 ·
Micro - Adjusting your draw length....(continued)

Now,
that we are in the ball park...

now that we are within 1/4-inch of the PERFECT draw length...

NOW,
we can talk about micro-tuning the draw length,
which is making adjustments to the ALIGNMENT of the release side forearm (Laser Pointer)
to really DIAL IN the draw length setting on the bow.


So,
this is where my KITCHEN SINK Tuning comes in.

We ALL want to have the same arrow point of impact.
WE ALL want field points and broadheads to hit the same spot.
We ALL want our target arrows to nail the center of the x-ring..again and again and again.

This is why we DIAL IN the draw length setting on the bow,
one twist in the bowstring, at a time,
when we are up to 1/4-inch AWAY...from DIALING in the PERFECT bow draw length setting....
cuz...

cam DL sizes are spaced 1/2-inch apart.
 
#20 ·
Micro - Adjusting your draw length....(continued)

So,
the first few steps of my KITCHEN SINK Tuning are a test for DIALING in your bow DL setting
getting the ALIGNMENT of the release forearm PERFECT,
so we can get the SAME arrow point of impact....

nailing a weighted string,
just 5 FEET away.



STEP 1:

So,
hang a spool of string or any string with a weight on the end,
in front of a target.

Step back 5 feet.
Fire a fletched arrow at the string.
Tweak the sight pins windage a skosh left...a skosh right,
until the fletched arrow TOUCHES or even SPLITS the string material.

You should get this result.






Then,
we goto the next stage.

Step back 5 feet,
and try again with a bareshaft (arrow with no vanes).

You should get this result.






If you are a RIGHT HANDED shooter
and
the bareshaft misses to the RIGHT of the string...


STEP 2:

Press your bow
and shorten the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and lengthen the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg say 1 complete twist
and fire a bareshaft again at the hanging string in front of the target...

the bareshaft point of impact should MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...

repeat the shortening of the LEFT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (ADD)
and
repeat the lengthening of the RIGHT SIDE buss cable leg with another complete twist (REMOVE)

STEP 3:

IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT MOVE CLOSER TO THE STRING...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT DOES NOT CHANGE...
IF THE BARESHAFT POINT OF IMPACT STAYS OFF TO THE RIGHT...

THEN WE HAVE A DRAW LENGTH PROBLEM....ABSOLUTELY NO QUESTION
cuz your elbow is too far back
cuz your elbow is behind your head
instead of DIRECTLY behind the arrow...in line behind the arrow

so,
when the elbow is BEHIND YOUR HEAD,
your release forearm is pointed OFF TO THE RIGHT,
and
your release forearm pulls the bowstring sideways (FAMOUS LEFT PAPER TEAR for right handed shooters)
and
when we have a nock left paper tear,
cuz the bowstring is pulled sideways to the LEFT,
cuz your forearm is pointed off to the right,
then...

the bareshaft goes whereever your forearm is pointed
and the bareshaft misses sideways to the RIGHT of the string.


So if STEP 2 (buss cable leg tuning) has ZERO EFFECT,
we must goto

STEP 4.

SHORTEN the bow DL setting.

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting a complete 1/2 inch (new module).

Now,
you might need to shorten the bow DL setting less than a complete module replacement...

maybe you need to shorten the bow DL setting only 1/8th inch....maybe only 1/4-inch.

HOW do you shorten a bow DL setting in-between module sizes?...less than 1/2-inch?

FIND the bottom of the buss cable (cable with 3 end loops) and REMOVE twists to INCREASE ATA
and the bow DL will shorten. As you continue to UNTWIST the buss cable, the ATA continues to grow
and the bow DL will continue to shorten.

Keep tweaking the buss cable LONGER, until the bareshaft hits the string, like this...






So,
stay at 5 feet
and fire fletched arrows at the string
and
fire bare shaft arrows at the string
until both fletched and bareshaft hit the string.


When firing fletched arrows at the string (tweak the sight pins windage)...to adjust
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable (bottom of the buss cable to make LARGE adjustments for point of impact....missing RIGHT by inches)
when firing bareshafts at the string...work the buss cable legs (shorten left side leg when missing right of the string by tiny amounts IF YOU ARE a RH shooter).


Soon,
your fletched arrows will be touching the string.

Soon,
your bareshafts will also touch the string.
 
#21 ·
Micro - Adjusting your draw length....(continued)

So,
when you can get a fletched arrow to NAIL a weighted string,
and
when you can get a bareshaft to ALSO touch the weighted string...

when shooting at 5 feet,
then,
your draw length is dialed in.

Single cam bow,
twin cam bow,
hybrid cam bow...

any bow with a buss cable (cable with 3 end loops, where two of the loops attach to the top axle),
you can tweak the draw length...

by shortening or lengthening the buss cable (add or remove twists at the bottom of the buss cable).


Single cam bow,
twin cam bow,
hybrid cam bow,
binary cam bow...

you can also adjust the bow DL setting, by ADDING/REMOVING twists from the bowstring itself
(add/remove twists from both ends to keep the peep sight pointed dead straight ahead).


The key thing to remember
is that when you ADJUST the bow DL setting,
keep the bow arm elbow bend EXACTLY the same as before,
cuz we are trying to make the ELBOW (release arm side)
SWING AROUND YOUR SHOULDER, like a door hinge.

This will ONLY happen,
if you keep the FRONT HALF of your body (bow arm half)
exactly the SAME as before (bow arm elbow bend).
 
#210 ·
So,
when you can get a fletched arrow to NAIL a weighted string,
and
when you can get a bareshaft to ALSO touch the weighted string...

when shooting at 5 feet,
then,
your draw length is dialed in.

Single cam bow,
twin cam bow,
hybrid cam bow...

any bow with a buss cable (cable with 3 end loops, where two of the loops attach to the top axle),
you can tweak the draw length...

by shortening or lengthening the buss cable (add or remove twists at the bottom of the buss cable).


Single cam bow,
twin cam bow,
hybrid cam bow,
binary cam bow...

you can also adjust the bow DL setting, by ADDING/REMOVING twists from the bowstring itself
(add/remove twists from both ends to keep the peep sight pointed dead straight ahead).


The key thing to remember
is that when you ADJUST the bow DL setting,
keep the bow arm elbow bend EXACTLY the same as before,
cuz we are trying to make the ELBOW (release arm side)
SWING AROUND YOUR SHOULDER, like a door hinge.

This will ONLY happen,
if you keep the FRONT HALF of your body (bow arm half)
exactly the SAME as before (bow arm elbow bend).
Can you explan binary cams and DL change? Do you put a twist in the cable or string?? Do you do both ends?

Thx
 
#22 ·
i did the kitchens sink tune on my burner and my goodness did it make a world of difference ... one question ... lets say we have done the tune.. then decide to change to a heavier tip say 125 grain moved to 165 grains ... but we remain in the optimum spine sensitivity range per OT2 with this have any affect on the kitchen sink tune? or will it need to be done in its entirety again
 
#24 ·
Heavier points up front...

just work the limb bolts
and play with the draw weight,
a little heavier for draw weight...
a little lighter for draw weight...

until you find the sweet spot for arrow group TIGHTNESS.

After you find the sweet spot for the limb bolts position...

repeat the KITCHEN SINK TUNING,
to fine tune everything again...
to get everything DIALED in...

cuz,
when you tweak the draw weight,
for BEST result...

the draw weight changed,
but...

you also changed the ATA
you also changed the draw length.

So,
repeat KITCHEN SINK,
when you feel you have the draw weight dialed in...

so we can check,
and see if any adjustments are needed at each TEST in KITCHEN SINK tuning.

If you pass each test,
then,
KITCHEN SINK will go very very quickly.

If you have a yoke cable bow,
then,
don't forget to go through CREEP TUNING.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443&highlight=tuning

See POST #15.
 
#26 ·
Understanding Draw Force Curve...What is a DFC?

Here is a thread...

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1942277

where Mitigator33 asked
"Draw Force Curve?"

Mitigator33's question:

I put my 2013 Answer on the draw board with my Pelouze digital scale.
At first it was maxed out at 73 lbs.

It loaded quick then held in the 69-72 range
for much of the draw cycle finally
dropping into a short valley and
having an 18lb holding weight.

Draw stops were all the way out. 30.25" draw.

Once dialing down to 70lb draw weight
it was a lot different cycle.
Draw stops all the way out 30.25" draw

it peaked early for only a few inches then
let off quick falling into the valley
which was much longer and had a 15.5-16lb hold weight.

The question I am having is what else can be done
if anything
to change the draw cycle.

I am new to bow tuning.

The cams are synced perfect at this point
but it was amazing to me the difference in what 3 lbs made.

I'm not really needing a change just on an educational mission.
 
#27 ·
Understanding Draw Force Curve...What is a DFC?....(continued)

So,
all Mitigator33 did,
as relax the limb bolts slightly AWAY from maximum...

so the draw weight = 73 lbs (limb bolts at maximum)
and
now the draw weight = 70 lbs (limb bolts slightly away from maximum).

The FEEL of the draw cycle changed very noticeably.

What happened?
Why?


You can tweak the BALANCE between holding weight and draw weight...

by ADDING or REMOVING twists in the bowstring.

ADD TWISTS to both ends of the bowstring,
to shorten the bowstring.

You can try just 1 extra twist say at each end.
You can try say 3 extra twists on TOP and say 5-6 twists extra on BOTTOM.

Anytime you SHORTEN a bowstring,
you SHIFT the balance between holding weight and draw weight....

the draw weight goes DOWN slightly
and
the holding weight goes UP slightly.

So,
guess what happens if you go the other direction?

If you LENGTHEN a bowstring, just by a few twists...

then,
you AGAIN, shift the balance between HOLDING weight and DRAW weight.

When you LENGTHEN a bowstring,
even by just a few twists at each end,
the HOLDING weight goes DOWN and the DRAW WEIGHT goes UP...slightly.


This is completely due to cam starting rotation position,
and
the LEVERAGE created by the changing radius of the cam,
depending on the position of the cam,
when the bow is at rest.

A CAM is just a crow bar...

with an ever changing length.

If you only look at the 3-o'clock position of the top cam,
and the cam rotates,
you can see that the diameter or radius of the cam CHANGES as the cam rotates,
while you pull the bowstring from AT REST, to FULL DRAW.

A CAM is just a variable length CROW-BAR.
 
#28 ·
Understanding Draw Force Curve...What is a DFC?....(continued)

Mitigator33 has a 2013 Answer.

Starting draw weight was 73 lbs with limb bolts at maximum.
Adjusted draw weight was 70 lbs, with limb bolts slightly away from maximum.

Here is a brief table of his specs, and short comments on what happened, and why.


 
#29 ·
Nuts and Bolts i was under the assumtion you always wanted your bow to be in spec via axle to axle and brace. So when your fine tuning your DL via bottom of the buss cable it is going to through the bow out of spec correct? Is it ok to leave it out of spec or do we need to put it back into spec some how?
 
#30 ·
IN SPEC is just the beginning.

We fine tune to GO OUT of spec on PURPOSE.

Results is what we tune a bow for,
for a CUSTOM fit.

In Spec is only a GUIDE.

In Spec is not the FINAL GOAL.

Shoooting the BEST arrow groups of your life,
is the goal.

This is the purpose of KITCHEN SINK TUNING,
to show you how much to go OUT OF SPEC,
to get a new PERSONAL best score (if you are a target shooter)
and
to get to a new PERSONAL BEST arrow group size (accuracy).
 
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