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Thread: Spring tension on a Limb Driver

  1. #1
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    Spring tension on a Limb Driver

    So I'm reading more about setting the spring tension on my Limb Drivers and I have a question.

    When setting the tension they say to set it so it just lifts the arrow up. My question can you accurately set that with the bow not drawn. There will be a lot of leverage on the rest with all the shaft and point weight so far from the rest. Does setting something like that needs to be down on a draw board??

    If just adjusting it not drawn should I set the tension so it sags a bit with all the weight of the undrawn shaft hanging over the front of the rest???

    Any ideas "tuners"?????

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  2. #2
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    Unhook the rest cord and let the arrow sit on the rest in the position it would be at full draw. That way the weight of the whole arrow isnt sitting on the rest and you can set your tension right.
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  3. #3
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    ttt
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  4. #4
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    I adjusted mine by yanking on the cord and letting it go. make sure the arrow doesn't bounce. but, if it doesn't have enough tension, the arrow will not rise the entire way consistently.

  5. #5
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    I took my cord loose and just sit my arrow on the rest with about a inch of arrow sticking out in front, I then push down on the arrow and depress the rest and only holding onto the knock I let loose of the rest and see if the arrow comes up completely. This simulates being at full draw without using a draw board.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padgett View Post
    I took my cord loose and just sit my arrow on the rest with about a inch of arrow sticking out in front, I then push down on the arrow and depress the rest and only holding onto the knock I let loose of the rest and see if the arrow comes up completely. This simulates being at full draw without using a draw board.
    That sounds like the ticket. Thanks Padgett and others who weighed in.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padgett View Post
    I took my cord loose and just sit my arrow on the rest with about a inch of arrow sticking out in front, I then push down on the arrow and depress the rest and only holding onto the knock I let loose of the rest and see if the arrow comes up completely. This simulates being at full draw without using a draw board.
    I've always done the same thing but I don't get why you would want to hold onto the nock?

    It works perfectly by just pushing down on the launcher and letting the arrow pop back up on it's own. At least it's worked well for me for 8 years now.
    I cut my arrows twice and they're still too short.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeter 58 View Post
    I've always done the same thing but I don't get why you would want to hold onto the nock?

    It works perfectly by just pushing down on the launcher and letting the arrow pop back up on it's own. At least it's worked well for me for 8 years now.
    What supports the other end of the arrow then?
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  9. #9
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    I'm taking it as he nocks it on the string?
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bo Bob View Post
    What supports the other end of the arrow then?
    The string when you snap the arrow nock on it.

    I also use a tied in nock set now but I didn't up until about 4 years ago. Still worked out just as well.

    Bob, just be sure when you loosen the set screw that you hang on to both pieces. On the one collar it has a tiny hole in the back side of it for the spring to go into. If you let that pop out, it can be a pain the first couple times then you'll get the hang of it.
    I cut my arrows twice and they're still too short.

    You cannot hit what you cannot see.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwanty03 View Post
    I'm taking it as he nocks it on the string?
    But my thoughts are if they say, "just enought tension to raise the arrow" then adjusting it to hold the arrow with an undrawn bow, it will take much more tension to hold that arrow than one with just an inch or so over the rest.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeter 58 View Post
    The string when you snap the arrow nock on it.

    I also use a tied in nock set now but I didn't up until about 4 years ago. Still worked out just as well.

    Bob, just be sure when you loosen the set screw that you hang on to both pieces. On the one collar it has a tiny hole in the back side of it for the spring to go into. If you let that pop out, it can be a pain the first couple times then you'll get the hang of it.
    Thanks for that tip.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeter 58 View Post
    Bob, just be sure when you loosen the set screw that you hang on to both pieces. On the one collar it has a tiny hole in the back side of it for the spring to go into. If you let that pop out, it can be a pain the first couple times then you'll get the hang of it.
    That tiny hole is the devil..
    I had to tear mine down a few times because I didn't apply enough pressure and the spring slipped out.. Its a pain..

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bo Bob View Post
    But my thoughts are if they say, "just enought tension to raise the arrow" then adjusting it to hold the arrow with an undrawn bow, it will take much more tension to hold that arrow than one with just an inch or so over the rest.
    No it's the same thing. Forget about drawing the bow aspect. Just think of it as it is. Since the spring works kind of backwards from other rests, all you need to do is:

    1. Disconnect the timing cord.

    2. Nock the arrow you plan on using.

    3. Push the arrow and launcher down, then let it go. When the launcher pops all the way up, I like the arrow to pop up of the launcher just a little.

    4. If it does not pop up or come to the full upright position, then loosen the set screw, hold onto the collar, turn it to tighten the spring tension. Tighten the set screw back down and repeat step 3.

    5. If the arrow pops up too high off the launcher, then back the string tension down a little.

    That's all there is to it.
    I cut my arrows twice and they're still too short.

    You cannot hit what you cannot see.

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    later use

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bo Bob View Post
    But my thoughts are if they say, "just enought tension to raise the arrow" then adjusting it to hold the arrow with an undrawn bow, it will take much more tension to hold that arrow than one with just an inch or so over the rest.
    Skeet has it about right.
    Think of it this way, if you set the spring tension so it will only hold the arrow up at full draw, the rest will not rise fully until you are at full draw.
    When you release the shot, the rest will drop as the arrow is travelling forward instead of staying at full rise until the limb cord pulls it down.
    Not conducive to good accuracy and cosistancy.

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