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Thread: gap shooting arrow weight

  1. #1

    gap shooting arrow weight

    so i want to get a set of arrows made up for 3d/hunting so i want my PO at around 25 yards i draw 28.5"3 under anchored on cheek bone which puts my pointer finger on upper lip on middle finger on lower lip currently im shooting 31" 2016's and i have like a 35 yard point on, my arrows move pretty quick so im thinking if i boost arrow weight by 100 grains it should come right in and make things a little easier at short ranges



  2. #2
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    I have a nice 3D set up. I anchor pretty high on top of my cheekbone just under my eye. Shooting an arrow around 12gpp gives me a point on around 22 yds. So a heavier arrow at or above 12gpp is gonna give you a better point on. Also don't cut the shafts shoot them full length. I've shot arrows as heavy as 15gpp, as long as they are spined correctly they will fly, although your gaps really start to increase after 25 to 35 yds.

    Omega Longbows
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  3. #3
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    There are a number of factors which will effect POD and they go roughly in this order:
    Anchor position.
    Arrow speed.
    Arrow length.

    Anchor and length will not effect the shape of the trajectory, also anchor will have the greatest effect on POD until you get into fairly extreme arrow lengths and weights. However the higher you move the anchor the less arrow length with effect the gap.
    Adding weight/slowing down the arrow will effect the trajectory so the POD moves closer, but it won't actually tighten-up your short-range gaps like the other two will. The gap will also change more between distances, especially past POD.
    The only real free lunch is shooting a longer arrow. Otherwise you are committed to learning a new anchor or developing more accurate distance estimation.

    -Grant

  4. #4
    Personally, I prefer a much flatter shooting arrow for 3D. I've shot a lot of rounds with both heavy and light arrows and I pretty much always score much better with the light arrows. From a gapping standpoint a heavy arrow may give you a shorter point on but as others have alluded the midrange will have a greater arc. This will give you larger gaps below point on and will make distance estimation more critical. The other downside is the arrows drop much faster past your point on distance.

    I find a longer, lighter arrow will keep the speed up and the point on distance down. If you're comfortable with moving your anchor up a little this will give you even more latitude.

    One of my favorite bows is setup with with 30" carbon arrows which come out at around 190+. With a high anchor I get a 28 yard point on. I can hold point on the bull from 0-28 yards and my arrows will never hit more than 8" above the target. Makes yardage estimation a very simple and the visual picture changes very little. With an anchor a finger down my point on goes to 35 yards and my largest gap is about 12". I like the high anchor and fast arrow for simplicity, both on the course and while hunting.

    If you can get ahold of some full length, correctly spined carbon that are lighter than your current arrows I'd experiment with them to see if they work for you style. You may not like the faster arrow but, than again, you may love em'.

  5. #5

    gap shooting arrow weight

    Eric

    I just moved my anchor up and am kicking myself for not doing it years ago. A high anchor is the single biggest thing you can do to reduce your gaps.

    Matt
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt_Potter View Post
    Eric

    I just moved my anchor up and am kicking myself for not doing it years ago. A high anchor is the single biggest thing you can do to reduce your gaps.

    Matt
    I'll second that, especially at shorter distances. Moved mine up a few months ago, and it was awkward at first, but a much better site picture and tight gaps (for me anyway) out to 30 yds.

    Omega Longbows
    Turbonock

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by UrbanDeerSlayer View Post
    I'll second that, especially at shorter distances. Moved mine up a few months ago, and it was awkward at first, but a much better site picture and tight gaps (for me anyway) out to 30 yds.
    I'll third it Every time I moved my anchor up, my scores usually improved- so long as my back tension is still good.

  8. #8
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    If I could get a 27-30yd POD with arrows going 200fps I'd be beside myself with glee, that would be a killer combo. Closest I seem to be able to get is 33-35yds POD with 32" arrows going 185FPS. I'm going to try a different tab and see if I can get that up higher.

    -Grant

  9. #9
    i'll have to try that too, i just ordered some easton axis arrows that will come in at 12 gpp but ill try it on range with lighter arrows too

  10. #10
    decided to go back to instinctive i gave gap a good 4 month run i dont think its for me

  11. #11
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    I recently played around with my 3 under anchor, just to see the effect on gaps (this is with a 40# bow, 29.5 inch arrows, 4 inch feathers, off the shelf, ~9GPP). Here's what i noticed.

    3-under with my pinky on the eye tooth was just uncomfortable and nearly impossible to shoot without ripping my nose off.

    Anchoring with my ring finger on my eye tooth gave me a point on around 35 yards and about a 16" gap for shots in the 15-25 yard range. Long shots were impossible though as I had to gap way up in the trees. I found this anchor to be a bit awkward but feasible. If I remember correctly, I think I had to cant the bow a bit to get this to work.

    I currently anchor 3-under with my middle finger on the eye tooth. With this setup I have a point-on around 40-45 yards depending on the arrow weight/string type and my gaps are around 18-20 inches for 15-25 yard shots. My gap at 50 yards is about 40 inches over the spot and at 60 yards about 8 feet over the spot.

    3-under with the index finger on the eye tooth gave me a point-on around 50 yards but my gaps in the 15-25 yard range were too large to useful. I was not able to gap shoot with this anchor until about 25 yards out.

  12. #12
    yeah i anchor with top of pointer finger seated on cheekbone i have a nice ridge thats the same length as top of that finger so it gives me a nice solid repeatable anchor but i cant deal with aiming off the deer and different size targets mess with my mind so im just gonna grip and rip it

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by grantmac View Post
    If I could get a 27-30yd POD with arrows going 200fps I'd be beside myself with glee, that would be a killer combo. Closest I seem to be able to get is 33-35yds POD with 32" arrows going 185FPS. I'm going to try a different tab and see if I can get that up higher.

    -Grant
    I gave up on worrying about arrow speed. Working on a set up now that gives me a 25 yd point on, and potential up near 180 fps arrow speed. Shoots pretty flat from 20-30 yds. Should be perfect for 3D. Another benefit is the bow is much quieter with a heavy arrow. Maybe this year the deer won't hear me a jump the string, LOL!!!

    Omega Longbows
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by fisher2 View Post
    decided to go back to instinctive i gave gap a good 4 month run i dont think its for me
    Don't forget "Gapstinctive"

    Tony and I have talked about this, and we both shoot better (at least on 3D) when we see the arrow but don't bother doing anything with it. Just see everything, focus on the spot, and execute a good shot. Best of both worlds!

  15. #15
    i was averageing 240 on a 28 target 3d course just grip and rip i dropped to 160 yesterday misjudging yardages... if it aint broke

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by fisher2 View Post
    i was averageing 240 on a 28 target 3d course just grip and rip i dropped to 160 yesterday misjudging yardages... if it aint broke
    What max distance?

    -Grant

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by fisher2 View Post
    i was averageing 240 on a 28 target 3d course just grip and rip i dropped to 160 yesterday misjudging yardages... if it aint broke
    I had the opposite problem. Instinctive aiming for 3D had me very inconsistent. But raising my anchor and putting the arrow right under my eye made a HUGE difference. Basically my arrow tip is on a deer sized target from 15 to 30 yds, making all my gaps in that range around 6-8 inches or less. Even with a 5 yd misjudgemgent in distance its still possible to hit the 8 ring. They key for me with gapping is to not focus on the gap but to look through the gap as if it was a site and focus on the target where I want the arrow to land. I will sometimes as an alternative, use point of aim, where now my focus is on the arrow tip as it relates to a certain spot on the target. In either case the primary focus is always on the intended target.
    ..

    Omega Longbows
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  18. #18
    Max dist was about 40yards in my area i can hit the 8 80% of the time at that dist instinctively

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fisher2 View Post
    Max dist was about 40yards in my area i can hit the 8 80% of the time at that dist instinctively
    A 25yd POD would be a bad idea with that sort of max distance. You'd really want faster arrows and around a 35yd POD otherwise distance estimation is going to get really critical.

    -Grant

  20. #20
    Well most shots are.25 and under with a max of 40 lol

  21. #21
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    25 and under can all be shot with one gap provided you are shooting over ~180fps with a POD of 30-35yds. Past that you'd just need point on and then maybe two gaps past that. For me that would be point on the top of the target for 40yds.

    If you can get the anchor up higher and shoot faster arrows that can help a lot.

    -Grant

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by grantmac View Post
    25 and under can all be shot with one gap provided you are shooting over ~180fps with a POD of 30-35yds. Past that you'd just need point on and then maybe two gaps past that. For me that would be point on the top of the target for 40yds.

    If you can get the anchor up higher and shoot faster arrows that can help a lot.

    -Grant
    Found this thread in a search and was hoping for some additional information. This is the goal I'm working toward and I've got the speed. My problem is getting the arrow under my eye with a high anchor. I can raise my anchor and cut my gaps in less than half but doing so takes the arrow from directly beneath my eye and obviously sends it left(right-handed shooter). How do you both raise your anchor and still keep the arrow in the right position under the eye? Do you have to severely cant the bow or is there a way to move POI to allow for acceptable accuracy? Our normal 3D distances are up to 30yrds +/- 10%.....
    "If you find yourself in a fair fight....your tactics suck!"

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kegan View Post
    Don't forget "Gapstinctive"

    Tony and I have talked about this, and we both shoot better (at least on 3D) when we see the arrow but don't bother doing anything with it. Just see everything, focus on the spot, and execute a good shot. Best of both worlds!
    Good to hear, Kegan; I'd noticed this while conducting my "300 experiment": gapstinctive with a high anchor has been producing my best scores.

  24. #24
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    I'm no expert but once upon a time (before I needed glasses to see) I anchored way up by my eye. I didn't get the arrow under my eye. If you view the tip of the arrow as a front sight, it was off to the right of the target. That essentially creates another gap and it changes with distance.

  25. #25

    Re: gap shooting arrow weight

    Quote Originally Posted by kegan View Post
    Don't forget "Gapstinctive"

    Tony and I have talked about this, and we both shoot better (at least on 3D) when we see the arrow but don't bother doing anything with it. Just see everything, focus on the spot, and execute a good shot. Best of both worlds!
    Ooooh yeah!

    Ray :shade :

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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