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Thread: Target types?

  1. #1
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    Target types?

    I'm curious what you guys/gals use for indoor or garage targets...

    My wife and I both shooting the last couple months have killed 3 different types. We started with a cheap foam block from local chain sporting goods store. It lasted all of a week before the arrows started to pass through. Next up was a bag meant for compounds that worked fine for a while. Only problem was the arrow from my wife's 15# would bounce off if it hit a harder spot. We just replaced it with a Morrell youth target. It's foam like the other but feels a little more substantial due to some type of facing on it that the other didn't have. Not sure how long it will last and the arrows are nearly painful to remove. At this rate, the targets will end up costing more than our bows.

    Appreciate any thoughts recommendations you have.

    Carlton
    _________
    Cartel Midas, Samick Vision Carbon Longs (26# @ 28", 31 OTF @ 29.75"), MedallionXR 900 110gr point, Eli p3 vanes
    Martin Silencer 50# Target Setup


  2. #2
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    image.jpgthe carpet target works well. It carpet and carpet padding back to back about 12 inches deep.above that is best. Just a computer box full of cloths.when the box goes bad get a new one.the Glendel 3d target is only good just before hunting even the 4sided core wears out fast. A box of cloths is your cheapest homemade target..

  3. #3
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    Sorry for the picture.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceallred View Post
    I'm curious what you guys/gals use for indoor or garage targets...

    My wife and I both shooting the last couple months have killed 3 different types. We started with a cheap foam block from local chain sporting goods store. It lasted all of a week before the arrows started to pass through. Next up was a bag meant for compounds that worked fine for a while. Only problem was the arrow from my wife's 15# would bounce off if it hit a harder spot. We just replaced it with a Morrell youth target. It's foam like the other but feels a little more substantial due to some type of facing on it that the other didn't have. Not sure how long it will last and the arrows are nearly painful to remove. At this rate, the targets will end up costing more than our bows.

    Appreciate any thoughts recommendations you have.

    Target Types


    Friction Type


    Straw Bales
    Cheap and easy for people who work in ag. Not good at stopping high velocity arrows. Work better if given extra compression and remanded. Can rot if they get wet and possibly attract vermin. Treated and covered versions available from some vendors.

    Excelsior Bales (long wood shavings that look a bit like straw)
    Heavy and more expensive than straw. Stop high velocity arrows better. Hard to pull arrows out if they get wet--the wood expands and gets more grippy.

    Layered Carpet Bales
    Layers of carpet compressed together- stacked so the edges face the archer. Sometimes tarred to help weather-proof them. Work fairly well for high velocity arrows, but can make the arrows hot from the friction. When they start to get shot out the shot out portion bounces light arrows.

    Layered Paper/Phonebooks

    You can just stack bunches of of phone books with their spine against a wall, page edges towards the archer. They should be against a board that leans back a little to keep them from avalanching down on you or be secured in some other way. Not as common now that almost nobody uses phone books! I've never shot them so I don't know their characteristics.

    Layered Insulation board
    I haven't tried this.

    Layered or Spiral Wound Thin Sheets of Foam
    Work well, though pulling arrows out can pull thin bits of foam sheeting. My Black Hole target is a large stack of compressed layers of thin foam sheets. The guts of our large round American Whitetail matts are spiral wound foam. These work pretty well depending on model. Not for broad heads

    Solid Ethafoam
    My Stanley Hipps JOAD target is made of a sheet of this. How easily the arrows pull vs. how long they last depends on the density of the foam, which comes in different weights. My JOAD target is good for our 10 pound training bows and for supplementing bales that bounce light arrows. My high density ethafoam target is good for frustration--it is really hard to pull arrows out of.

    Expanding Insulation Foam
    Some people make 3D animals and other archery targets out of this. I hate it. It gunks up my arrows, and the foam is brittle, so it isn't "self healing" (not real healing, but when the springiness of penetrated foam expands back to fill the wound channel.)

    Compression Targets


    Bag Targets
    Typically a bag made out of woven polyethylene or other plastic woven material--kind of like plastic burlap--that arrows can penetrate. The bags can be stuffed with rags, batting, plastic bags, plastic wrap. Many commercial variations and home brew versions. These last a long time, stop arrows well and are reasonably priced. But they don't' stand on their own and have to be hung from something. And they aren't evenly stuffed so you can get penetration at the top or sides of the bags.

    Spyder Web Batting Targets

    These target combine the advantages of bag targets, which stop high velocity arrows but offer easy arrow pull, with the consistency and free standing ability of a layered foam target. They are a bit heavy for their size but if I were to buy a new target this is what I'd buy. Not sure how they do with the training bows though.

    There are some other kinds of matts such as 128cm round and square foam matts for competition, and natural style spiral straw and Indian grass matts in various sizes but they are more specialized.
    <evidence><
    ..../............\.......
    Hoyt GM OR - Adcock ACS LB - Bickerstaffe ELB - USA Archery Level 2

    "Complex problems have simple, easy to understand, wrong answers.” HL Mencken

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerard18 View Post
    Sorry for the picture.
    For a second I thought you really might have hung a dear target upside down on your ceiling--space saving technique?
    <evidence><
    ..../............\.......
    Hoyt GM OR - Adcock ACS LB - Bickerstaffe ELB - USA Archery Level 2

    "Complex problems have simple, easy to understand, wrong answers.” HL Mencken

  6. #6
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    Look up the lifetime target in the DIY section. We built three of them 3'x6' for our JOAD club and they work great. We also built some smaller ones that are 6" deep and they stop arrows from recurves shoot 45lbs. We ended up facing them with Tyvec we got from a contractor friend. We also faced a few of them with old trampoline material. That works great unless the points of the arrows are a little bigger than the arrow shaft, then its really hard to pull the arrows out because the points catch on the trampoline material. We got all of the old clothes from our local rescue mission/resale shop. They were the clothes that weren't good enough for them to resell. I literally think these targets will last a lifetime.

  7. #7
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    I bought one of those Morrell "youth" targets last summer and had it shot out in 2 months. It's my 7 year old's now. ;-) Hopefully you'll have better success and longevity with it than I did.

    I recently bought a big bag target that my local bow hunting shop had. The guy who owns the shop said he's had one on his home range for over 5 years and has just replaced the cover a couple times. I've got about a thousand arrows into it so far and I can hardly tell.
    --------------------
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Number46 View Post
    We also faced a few of them with old trampoline material. That works great unless the points of the arrows are a little bigger than the arrow shaft, then its really hard to pull the arrows out because the points catch on the trampoline material.
    Interesting. We use the mesh used by Sypder Web on some of our targets. We have the same issue, though probably not as bad as it would be with trampoline mesh. It's why we try not to use arrows that have points that don't fit flush such as carbon flash.
    <evidence><
    ..../............\.......
    Hoyt GM OR - Adcock ACS LB - Bickerstaffe ELB - USA Archery Level 2

    "Complex problems have simple, easy to understand, wrong answers.” HL Mencken

  9. #9
    In addition to the usual Morrell target bags, I also have boxes and burlap bags filled with old clothes that work very well. Shapes to taste. If you are careful folding the clothes into a burlap bag, you could make it fairly square to sit nicely where you desire. (Mine are nicknamed "turkey bags" and are roly-poly shaped for laying on the ground in the yard in front of my backstop for low shooting.)

    I saved newspapers for a long time and carefully laid them into a box on its side, and then stood it up and could shoot box against the newspaper's flat side. About a foot deep with papers and stops them quite well. Lots of newspaper saving and you could rig a fairly large target this way. Heavy, but ain't going nowhere.

    I will caution you to use some kind of larger backstop behind your target to catch the wayward arrow. I stand two 3/4" sheets of 4x8 plywood against the wall behind the bag. The "single carpet hanging behind the bag" trick failed me and my garage door has a hole in it as proof. 3/4" may seem overly thick, but I have had a wooden arrow shot from a 25# bow at 20 yards penetrate a 3/4" backstop by four inches several times. Arrows are powerful projectiles at any speed.

    Have fun making your own. It's easy once you catch one of the great ideas floating about.

    By the way, the more substantial and heavy Morrell target bags will last for tens of thousands of shots and you can turn them around and shoot the back side when you shred the front. You can also rejuvenate them by standing on them and squishing the innards around to even things out again. Not a bad investment considering the lifespan. I've got some so shredded that I merely hang a piece of burlap over the face to make it look solid and keep hammering at it. They are beasts!

  10. #10
    Allow me to clarify my post above. I do not stack the two 3/4" plywood boards together, but rather stand them side by side to create an 8' wide and tall backstop for the wild shots. A single board is sufficient for the stop (until I notice it otherwise ... but not yet). I go fairly wide and tall, both indoors and outdoors, in order to err on the side of safety.

    Thanks.

  11. #11
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    The only two target butts I haven't been able to shoot through are PacificBowButts and ArroLast targets. I have shot through Spyderwebs, Bulldogs, Hurricane and a few others. I shoot smaller diameter field arrows at about 265-270fps so, not setting the world on fire.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgerat View Post
    The only two target butts I haven't been able to shoot through are PacificBowButts and ArroLast targets. I have shot through Spyderwebs, Bulldogs, Hurricane and a few others. I shoot smaller diameter field arrows at about 265-270fps so, not setting the world on fire.
    Are you talking about the Pacific Bow Butts that are just extra compressed straw bales?
    <evidence><
    ..../............\.......
    Hoyt GM OR - Adcock ACS LB - Bickerstaffe ELB - USA Archery Level 2

    "Complex problems have simple, easy to understand, wrong answers.” HL Mencken

  13. #13
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    make a life time target. get trampoline material or similar for the faces (front and back) and fill it with old clothes, pillows, feed sacs, stuffing from old furnature. many people buy bags of clothes at yard sales or get them from the goodwill for free (stuff they cant sell)
    2011 Destroyer 350 28.5" 65#, 10" Carbon stab, Axcel Armortech Hd 5 pin .010, Ripcord, Gold Tip Velocity 7595's 396 gr, 100gr Killzones, Grim Reaper WTS, RamCats
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgerat View Post
    The only two target butts I haven't been able to shoot through are PacificBowButts and ArroLast targets. I have shot through Spyderwebs, Bulldogs, Hurricane and a few others. I shoot smaller diameter field arrows at about 265-270fps so, not setting the world on fire.
    I thought the bags would last longer especially since I'm only spring about 190fps. My wife even lower. It's been kicked around several times to repack buy still getting near pass through in some spots. Duct tape worked wonders to stop that but now they bounce out :-)

    My wife prefers the bags because the arrows are much easier to remove.

    I'll look into the two you mention!
    Carlton
    _________
    Cartel Midas, Samick Vision Carbon Longs (26# @ 28", 31 OTF @ 29.75"), MedallionXR 900 110gr point, Eli p3 vanes
    Martin Silencer 50# Target Setup

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warbow View Post

    Target Types


    Friction Type


    Straw Bales
    Cheap and easy for people who work in ag. Not good at stopping high velocity arrows. Work better if given extra compression and remanded. Can rot if they get wet and possibly attract vermin. Treated and covered versions available from some vendors.

    Excelsior Bales (long wood shavings that look a bit like straw)
    Heavy and more expensive than straw. Stop high velocity arrows better. Hard to pull arrows out if they get wet--the wood expands and gets more grippy.

    Layered Carpet Bales
    Layers of carpet compressed together- stacked so the edges face the archer. Sometimes tarred to help weather-proof them. Work fairly well for high velocity arrows, but can make the arrows hot from the friction. When they start to get shot out the shot out portion bounces light arrows.

    Layered Paper/Phonebooks

    You can just stack bunches of of phone books with their spine against a wall, page edges towards the archer. They should be against a board that leans back a little to keep them from avalanching down on you or be secured in some other way. Not as common now that almost nobody uses phone books! I've never shot them so I don't know their characteristics.

    Layered Insulation board
    I haven't tried this.

    Layered or Spiral Wound Thin Sheets of Foam
    Work well, though pulling arrows out can pull thin bits of foam sheeting. My Black Hole target is a large stack of compressed layers of thin foam sheets. The guts of our large round American Whitetail matts are spiral wound foam. These work pretty well depending on model. Not for broad heads

    Solid Ethafoam
    My Stanley Hipps JOAD target is made of a sheet of this. How easily the arrows pull vs. how long they last depends on the density of the foam, which comes in different weights. My JOAD target is good for our 10 pound training bows and for supplementing bales that bounce light arrows. My high density ethafoam target is good for frustration--it is really hard to pull arrows out of.

    Expanding Insulation Foam
    Some people make 3D animals and other archery targets out of this. I hate it. It gunks up my arrows, and the foam is brittle, so it isn't "self healing" (not real healing, but when the springiness of penetrated foam expands back to fill the wound channel.)

    Compression Targets


    Bag Targets
    Typically a bag made out of woven polyethylene or other plastic woven material--kind of like plastic burlap--that arrows can penetrate. The bags can be stuffed with rags, batting, plastic bags, plastic wrap. Many commercial variations and home brew versions. These last a long time, stop arrows well and are reasonably priced. But they don't' stand on their own and have to be hung from something. And they aren't evenly stuffed so you can get penetration at the top or sides of the bags.

    Spyder Web Batting Targets

    These target combine the advantages of bag targets, which stop high velocity arrows but offer easy arrow pull, with the consistency and free standing ability of a layered foam target. They are a bit heavy for their size but if I were to buy a new target this is what I'd buy. Not sure how they do with the training bows though.

    There are some other kinds of matts such as 128cm round and square foam matts for competition, and natural style spiral straw and Indian grass matts in various sizes but they are more specialized.
    Great info Warbow! Thx...

    The problem with some of the homemade/friction type is they get way to heavy to move around... I built a PVC stand for our last bag target that worked quite well and my wife could drag it away if needed. Once we get a larger place, we'll definitely be setting up one of the lifetime targets.

    The Spyder Web sounds interesting..
    Carlton
    _________
    Cartel Midas, Samick Vision Carbon Longs (26# @ 28", 31 OTF @ 29.75"), MedallionXR 900 110gr point, Eli p3 vanes
    Martin Silencer 50# Target Setup

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhill View Post
    make a life time target. get trampoline material or similar for the faces (front and back) and fill it with old clothes, pillows, feed sacs, stuffing from old furnature. many people buy bags of clothes at yard sales or get them from the goodwill for free (stuff they cant sell)
    Sounds like this is really the way to go and that will be the plan when we move to Texas next year... Unfortunately, space in our townhouse prevents that right now.
    Carlton
    _________
    Cartel Midas, Samick Vision Carbon Longs (26# @ 28", 31 OTF @ 29.75"), MedallionXR 900 110gr point, Eli p3 vanes
    Martin Silencer 50# Target Setup

  17. #17
    just adding what i do... kinda mentioned already though

    doubled up burlap sack stuffed w/ plastic wrap (mainly from my dry cleaned clothes) and old pillows or clothing. the arrows don't tear the burlap very often... they spread the fibers and pass through. after a while, just slip on a new bag...

    tighten it up if the arrows penetrate too much, loosen it if they bounce off or fall out...

  18. #18
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    Spyder web all the way if you can afford it. you really can pull with just your little finger. easy pull no more using your shoulder or foot to pull. Pricey but really one of those things that's worth it.

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by fotal View Post
    Spyder web all the way if you can afford it. you really can pull with just your little finger. easy pull no more using your shoulder or foot to pull. Pricey but really one of those things that's worth it.
    How long do the Spyder targets last?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Rich View Post
    How long do the Spyder targets last?
    I've never had one wear out on me! (Well, I've never had one of my own though--sorry, couldn't resist.)
    <evidence><
    ..../............\.......
    Hoyt GM OR - Adcock ACS LB - Bickerstaffe ELB - USA Archery Level 2

    "Complex problems have simple, easy to understand, wrong answers.” HL Mencken

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Rich View Post
    How long do the Spyder targets last?
    Based on my "tests", I have had mine for about 8mos. A good bit of money invested for 8mos of use. My ArroLast has been holding up to thousands of shots. This is just what I have found but, there really doesn't seem to be a magic bullet in targets. If they are going to stand up to lots of arrows, they are probably not going to be easy to pull for a while.

  22. #22
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    The spyder web targets properly cared for seem to hold up quite well.

    Dc
    The Sticky "What to include" Glossary Thread Carbon Impact Thread

    USAA Level 4 - NTS/Regional Coach
    It's the Indian, not the arrow!

  23. #23
    Has anyone tried the layered insulation foam? I'm tempted to make a target 6' x 6' x 2', stuff it with insulation foam, and use it for all my 122 cm face needs.

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