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Thread: Hoyt centershot?............

  1. #1
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    Hoyt centershot?............

    Ok,is there a recommended centershot for Hoyts in general? I know ALL bows are different,and as I was looking through the manual for my Katera xl it never gave a measured centershot. Now the Vector turbo gives an actual measurement of 13/16. Now as for tuning,say you set centershot to 13/16,should you leave it there and tune with the yokes? Walkback tune with rest movement and make final adjustments with the yokes? I'm becoming a bit of a fanboy and would like some tips

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  2. #2
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    13/16 is usually spot on ,but i would paper tune also to make fine adjustments
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  3. #3
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    Ok,so are you moving the rest or twisting yokes to tune?
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  4. #4
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    The way I set up my bows is to initially put the rest at 13/16.

    Then from there I stand 6-8 feet from my target and adjust the windage on my sight to split a string with a fletched arrow.

    After I get that done I get a bare shaft arrow and shoot at the string and adjust the yokes to split the string. I'll go back and forth with fletched and bare shafts until they both split the string and then I'll go back to 20 yards and adjust my arrow rest to get super x's on a vegas face.

    Then I'll go back to the short distance and check the windage on my site and adjust that again if necessary and if it is I'll go back to 20 yards again and adjust the arrow rest again.

    Once I am centered at both distances here I go back to 50 or 60 yards and repeat the process again to micro adjust things shooting at a single spot target by reading my groups.

    Then I will also adjust my rest up or down depending on group height at 50 and 60 yards.
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  5. #5
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    I've found my bows tune the best, with a little less cam lean at 3/4" instead of 13/16", but obviously that's a small amount, but it works better IMO. From there, I don't move the rest left and right anymore. Maybe up and down depending on bareshafts. Tune laternal nock travel with the yokes from there as long as spine is correct. Hoyts are easy IMO.

  6. #6
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    Most with the right spine will tune 3/4 to 13/16. I prefer in the 3/4" range because generally you will have less induced pre lean.
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  7. #7
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    Good info guys. Wil be shooting a GT 75/95 out of the Turbo. Didn't think I could get away with .400 spine with my 29.5"draw.
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  8. #8
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    Well,ended up just a hair over 3/4" centershot. 1 twist in the left one out right. Arrows are flying very well,might need another half twist to make em' perfect. Vector Turbo is a pleasure to shoot.
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  9. #9
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    I don't like the silent shelf on the new Hoyts, it didn't need to go that high and cover the berger hole. It is also harder to measure your center shot because of the rubber, I cut a hole so I could see the berger hole with a small blade, anyone else dislike it? Cheers roscoe

  10. #10
    I don't like it. Same reason as you- covers the Berger hole. I stuck a toothpick thru mine to use temporarily.
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  11. #11
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    I'm typically at 3/4" with my set-up, I usually got there from the beginning.
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  12. #12
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    sound like you need have to use 3 tuning types to get you're bow to shoot good?

    (YOKE , BARE , PAPER ) ALOT of work for finding center shot.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kgtech View Post
    sound like you need have to use 3 tuning types to get you're bow to shoot good?

    (YOKE , BARE , PAPER ) ALOT of work for finding center shot.
    Who are you referring to? I usually walk-back to find center,but on this Turbo I set it a hair over 3/4" and twisted yokes. How hard is that?
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monkeybutt2000 View Post
    Who are you referring to? I usually walk-back to find center,but on this Turbo I set it a hair over 3/4" and twisted yokes. How hard is that?
    Its not hard,,,some people just need to puff there chests out..Glad your enjoying the bow I was looking at a turbo myself..
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  15. #15
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    Most Hoyts will tune with the 13/16" centershot if you have a correctly spined arrow and your cam lean tuned out. I used to paper tune, but have starting using the bare shaft at 10 yards almost exclusively. A Block 4X4 target is very good for this. If the bare shaft angles into the target with the point left and the nock to the right, move the arrow rest to the left. If it angles into the target with the point down and the nock up, move the arrow rest up or the D loop down. If you have to move the arrow rest so far to the right (RH shooter) that you get fletching clearance issues, consider going to a stiffer arrow (stiffer shaft, shorter shaft, or lighter point weight).
    A man has got to know his limitations . . .

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monkeybutt2000 View Post
    Good info guys. Wil be shooting a GT 75/95 out of the Turbo. Didn't think I could get away with .400 spine with my 29.5"draw.
    What draw weight?
    A man has got to know his limitations . . .

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longmire View Post
    What draw weight?
    Around 61#s. I've actually been shooting .400 CX Piledrivers through this bow and they shoot great.
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  18. #18
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    You could be kinda close. I had a 62 lb. Katera, with a real world IBO of about 337, that needed a 27" shaft with a 75 gr. head to spine out perfect with the .400 shafts. Was much better with 28" .340's and a 100 grain head. Take one of your field point tipped .400 Piledrivers, remove the fletching, and shoot it into a layered target at 10 yards. If it angles into the target with the point right and the nock left (right handed shooter), it is too weak on spine.
    A man has got to know his limitations . . .

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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longmire View Post
    If it angles into the target with the point right and the nock left (right handed shooter), it is too weak on spine.
    Possibly, but it could be other things as well. Most guys today are setting the centershot at 3/4-13/16", getting the proper spine, then yoke tuning, rather than tuning with the rest like days of old. A bareshaft missing right doesn't necessarily mean weak spine.

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by RoscoeP23 View Post
    I don't like the silent shelf on the new Hoyts, it didn't need to go that high and cover the berger hole. It is also harder to measure your center shot because of the rubber, I cut a hole so I could see the berger hole with a small blade, anyone else dislike it? Cheers roscoe
    Hate it as well! I used a safety pin and an exacto to cut out the berger hole.

  21. #21
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    This is good info. I just got a new Charger as my first new bow, and I'm new to archery. Had been reading the easton arrow guide, and paper tuned a bit myself, and 13/16" is right on where my whisker biscuit rest ended up being. So thanks for the validation that I'm on the right track!

  22. #22
    I like the 13/16ths method and yoke tune left and right out.

    If you cant visually see any cam lean and it walk back tunes at 11/16ths or 12 or 14 then I wouldn't mess with the yoke.
    arrow length and spine can make the arrow move left or right out past 30-40 yds

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