For those who may be interested I have revised the much posted PP slide of the cam & 1/2 draw stop timing. I hope this addition will be easier to understand...
I would press the bow and measure them to see what you have. I would also bench tune your bow with the old string so that you will know within an 1/8th what you will need. This will save you so much work down the road.I noticed today that the sticker on my bow has a different lenghts than it sais on the hoyt website tune charts... If I order new strings, which should I stick to, the sticker, or the tune charts:
String: sticker 59 => tune chart 60.5
Buss: sticker 39 tune => chart 39.25
control: sticker 42.25 => tune chart 42.25
The strings on it now are the strings that where on it when I bought it (2nd hand) but they need replacing. The ATA is dead on, BH is dead on, Tiller is 1/32nd higher on top, and the timing is perfect (can't measure draw weight here, but it feels about right). The current strings don't look like factory strings (all red... Doesn't seem hoyty to me). Should I worry much about the lenght differences (especially the string bothers me)?
Actually, all bows should be maxed to check and set all factory specs. If you have gone through the draw stop timing, the last step is adjusting main bow string to get correct draw length. You will note that both cams move with twisting the main bow string. As long as they move equally there is no problem. As Hoyt states in their manuals, the timing marks or reference holes are just that, reference points.Question I've always heard max the limbs before tuning is this true with all Hoyts? Or something you can set draw weight and then time and sync the cams? BTW i don't have the cam+1/2 i have the C2 non adjustable 30" cams. TY
That's 'cause the lengths on the limb are untwisted lengths...:wink:I have tried all combinations of tip weights and arrow spines, also timed out cams so top cam is ahead of bottom cam and vise versa as well as both in sync.
I have tried different drop aways rests too.
I think the only thing i have not tried is to get a little longer cables and string.
They are rite at spec at installation with little room for twisting...maybe 4 to5 twists or so. They are generally about 3/16 of an inch shorter then the chart show but when on the bow the brace, draw length and weight are dead on.
But this is in the un sycned/tuned state. I have talked to a few different people about this and they tell me they no longer paper tune their bows anymore. That a big...... W.t.f.
Also have had people tell me to ditch the drop away rests that they are more gimick then reality. I noticed this is mentioned in the Bowtek threads...see Nolen threads.
Have to try some more experimenting it sound like.
You would need to call Hoyt on this one.Are the new hoyts like my Katera coming with twisted string and cable lengths on them now?I know from a few years ago they were un twisted lengths, but was told they are on the money now.