For those who may be interested I have revised the much posted PP slide of the cam & 1/2 draw stop timing. I hope this addition will be easier to understand...
they still have the lines on the sides for referance between the cams and limbs, if there inbetween the lines your fine, BUT with it timed correctly and DL set correctly it will be inbetween the lines, referance holes or not doesnt really matter
nice write up.i have one question tho.i have a 05 reflex with cam1/2. in the instructions it mentioned b/s on both cams,but i only have one b/s on the bottom cam.so.......am im supposed to have two b/s's?
Used your tuning method on my am32 and it shoots awesome now...one turn in buss corrected creep. Life is good now!
Originally tiller was out by an 1/8 and stop timing by 3/16th...that drove me crazy...a little vibration but the wall was terrible!
I understand the balancing act between tiller and stop timing. So what would be an acceptable difference in tiller for a tuned bow...< 1/32"?
Also could you(anyone) email me a printable version of the process and maybe some pics if u still have them, when u have time? This would be much appreciated!
Last I heard Javi was no longer active on A/T (our loss).
If you go to post #246 in this thread you will find pictures re-posted that Javi originally did.
Hi .
I have little problem with my turbotec 70#. I have twisted and turned then shot few times (shot and sounded pretty good already) . Now problem is ata is 8mm long ,bh is 3mm short and dw is only 66# . timing is right tiller is even . What you recommend to do .
Twisting both cables and the string will increase your DW to closer to 70#. Try 4 twists in each cable and 6 in the string and then check timing again.
First, check that the bow is in spec or very close with regard to DL, DW, Brace height and A-to-A measurements. Then check that the Draw stop timing and cam sync are set correctly according to Javi's instructions. The Slam & 1/2 tunes the same as the example given by Javi. If you have not looked yet see the pictures in post # 246 back in this thread.
When I first got my Highlander I thought it shot great too. But after learning how to get the timing and sync spot on it not only shot more consistent but felt better to shoot.
If you plan on trying to do the work yourself keep in mind that trying to get everything set correctly is a bit of a balancing act. Don't get too discouraged if it takes several attempts at getting it right. There is a bit of a learning curve. Fortunately if you have questions as you go along there are people here willing to help.
I untwist my string as per Javi's account and I cant get this thing near 1/4 long ATA to start with.secondly what reference marks am i looking at for step 2???
Javi wrote the Cam & ½ tuning info before the advent of parallel limb bows. Most people have stated that with parallel limbs you should look to get about 1/8” longer ATA.
Thanks I watched the vid again and realized I missed some due to multi-tasking.Hoyt is all new to me.Some guys have been a great help..thanks for being one of them
OK. I've tuned two of my bows and just tackled my sons banshee but I have a question. He has the cam 1/2 youth but there are no c or d holes. I maxed the draw stop out to 26" (where he shoots anyway) and timed it there. Did i do it right or should I have timed it at 22 or 23? It shoots fine but a little to the right before i had to adjust his center shot.
Hey all. I just finished bench tuning my Vectrix. First time I've ever done it and it went pretty well for the most part. 2 things though:
1. my BH I cant quite get. I really twisted up my strings (added 20 twists) and I dont want to twist them any more, but my DL is dead nuts. I need 7" and I'm a hair over 7-1/8". I know the tune chart is a reference so is 1/8" within ok?
2. the most DW i can get is 57# on 60# limbs according to my scale (american weigh 110). I took the draw stop peg out to bench tune it. will i need to twist anything when i put the peg back in to creep tune? If I do will this bring my draw weight up at all?
You should be able to get one or two pounds over the max draw weight with the limbs maxed out. A 60 lb. bow should pull 61 or 62. If not, the cause is usually not enough twists in the buss cable. That will, of course, throw everything else out of whack and require you to tweak the string and control cable - but that should solve both problems.
Hey Roskoe. I figured I could throw a couple twists in the Buss cable then time everything up again. I put 2 twists in the buss cable, then timed the cams with a coule twists in the control cable. I was then pulling 61.5 lbs. Unfortunately that threw my tiller off about 3/16" and the only way to get my tiller back was to take 2 twists out of both buss and control cables so I'm back to where I started. My DL is dead on, AtoA is 1/8" short, Timing dead on, Tiller dead on, BH 1/8" long. I checked my weight on a vertical scale and got 59# where as horizontally I was getting around 57. I checked the accuracy of my scale and it was dead on with my local pro shop.
I'm converting a Pro Elite from C2 cam to Cam & half plus and wondering if to use the method Javi talks about that I have used in the past with the regular Cam & Half that works great.
Does anyone know where I can get hold of a copy of Hoyt Thompson's "InSpec" DVD? I missed th boat on it the first time, and his website just sayd that he'll be back in the spring (it's been saying that since last fall, I guess).
I have tried to follow the instructions and I'm at a dead end. I have sync'd the cams and the timing but the length is long and the weight is low. Twisting the string will fix the length but it will also drop the weight. What did I do wrong???? I have Katera XL 60-70# w/ cam & 1/2 plus. I set the DL module to D (29"). The axle to axle is 36" long now and the draw weight ids 68#. The draw length is 29 3/4". Any help is appreciated.
I think I got it - at least I'm at the point that I'm done I was measuring the draw length usiing the berger hole which is about 1/4 longer than the pivot point. I've got the ATA to within 1/8". Draw is 1/4" long and BH and weight are dead on. Tiller is even and reference hole is good. Cams are timed. My nock ended up a little low and I corrected that. Now I just need to creep tune. Thanks for a very informative thread.
Chris
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