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Thread: Hoyt Draw Stop Timing (Revised)

  1. #26
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    Mar 2003
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    Javi,
    Thanks, I wasn't sure but felt it might be.
    Steamin



  2. #27
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    Apr 2004
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    ar
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    I am also having the same problem with the timing marks being off when I set the draw stop timing. What is the answer to correct this.

  3. #28

    Question new strings

    allso have strings coming from Mike Mathews coming any day
    my D L is 28.75 stooting at 29
    do I set bow on 28.5 and make string a little long or set at 29 and make
    string a little short
    First time at replacing strings thank`s

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    If Mike's strings for your bow are like what he did for my Xtec, they will be dead on. Follow Javi's instructions - look up hoyt chart, bottom out limbs, set cam per chart, change strings/cables, check Ato A. Mine was dead on with Mikes strings.

    Then, do the Javi magic (untwist string,etc.)

    Mine is SWEET!!!

  5. #30
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    Oct 2005
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    PA
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    TTT-someone needs this.........................

  6. #31
    was the question ever answered? the cams do not line up but the timeing is correct. or the the cams line up and the timing is off. how do you get them both correct?

  7. #32
    Join Date
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    Holes vs Cam timing - I had the same problem with a friend's bow who is just getting into the sport and bought a used Magnatec. I was 'twisting the night away'. I could get the holes equal but not the sync. After some personal consultation with the guru, he confirmed my suspicions. One or all of the strings/cables are probably not exactly the correct length and this will happen on some bows. (I have not taken it apart to confirm.)

    If this is the case, you will never get equidistant from the holes and sync timing without new strings. In Javi's post above:

    "When I tune a bow, I'm looking for the draw length to be correct for me, the draw weight I want and that cams in time for my shooting style"

    I am reading that the cam sync is more important than timing. My friend is coming over tomorrow. I have shot the bow (3" shorter DL than me ) and wall is great, it sits dead in hand on the shot but has a buzz (vibration may be the Magnatec) but I will let my friend decide. The cables are no where near the holes!

    I still believe!

  8. #33
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    Feb 2004
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    You confused me Yelk. In the excellent description and photos above, it seems that the twisting is done in order to make the cables and string the exact length they need to be. To me, that's what the whole tuning process is about. If they need to be exactly right before you start the tuning process, then you'd have to throw them out if they ever developed any creep at all and get a replacement that's exactly the right length. I'm not implying that a grossly bad cable or string, like an inch too long or too short, can be used but the tuning process is used to tweak the minor differences between ideal and how the bow was setup before you started.

    The cables on my bow each have a different number of twists in them. The control cable ended up with hardly any twist at all compared to the buss cable. It shoots perfect. With fingers it's bareshafted out to 40 yards and the bareshaft hits an inch low and to the left, just like I want it. I just wish one of the strands in the control cable wasn't broken. I'm debating leaving well enough alone and shooting it the way it is.

    Good luck with the magnatec
    Matthew 17:20

  9. #34
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    Feb 2004
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    Salt Lake
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    Measured tonight - buss cable about 1.5" short. String and control cable each just a little long!!! Don't know where the guy that sold the bow got the strings but musta been walking sidehill when they were made. The end loops are so small you almost cannot get them on/off the posts. Gonna suggest he get new strings soon.

    When I twist up the control, it gets to the point it is almost knotted and kinked when the holes are close to correct with the buss having just a minor twist. I am choosing to keep control cable without severe twists and get as close to equidistant as I can and set AtoA. Cams are in sync but timing a little off.

    Sorry for the confusion but I had it too until I confirmed measurements.

  10. #35
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  11. #36
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    this info really helped me out- BUMP

  12. #37
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    Feb 2005
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    Otsego mi
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    Thanks Javi

    this past weekend I used your complete tuning guide from your posts and all I can say is THANKS FOR SHARING ALL YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH US. my bow has never shoot better.
    Todd

  13. #38
    Hi,

    The more i read the forums the more sure i get in my conclusion. So if you could help me and my mates. We all have hoyt bows whit lot's of vibration in shooting. The case is worst in my bow (hoyt lazertec).

    The symptoms are in my case: Lot's of vibration and the bow tilts badly when i shoot. I have tried differnt kinds of stabilators but they don't help much.

    So when i shoot my lower limb seems to finish it's work later than the higher limb and the result is that the upper end of the bow moves backways and i really don't like that.

    The valley of my bow feels really bad, before pressure goes low there seems to be a little bump to more pressure and the valley is really short one. It is about 1 cm.

    The bow is in factory settings now. The checked things that are explained in manual are correct.

    I think this is a matter of syncronization but i am not sure. Is the case in so? And what can i do?

    -Struid

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Struid
    Hi,

    The more i read the forums the more sure i get in my conclusion. So if you could help me and my mates. We all have hoyt bows whit lot's of vibration in shooting. The case is worst in my bow (hoyt lazertec).

    The symptoms are in my case: Lot's of vibration and the bow tilts badly when i shoot. I have tried differnt kinds of stabilators but they don't help much.

    So when i shoot my lower limb seems to finish it's work later than the higher limb and the result is that the upper end of the bow moves backways and i really don't like that.

    The valley of my bow feels really bad, before pressure goes low there seems to be a little bump to more pressure and the valley is really short one. It is about 1 cm.

    The bow is in factory settings now. The checked things that are explained in manual are correct.

    I think this is a matter of syncronization but i am not sure. Is the case in so? And what can i do?

    -Struid
    Your answer is in the thread by JAVI spoken of above. It may take some time, but if you follow his directions you will find your vibration and "bump" will go away. If you have an older cam system, the same concept still applies, for all bows, set the tiller and then adjust the cams so the cables hit the flat spots on both top and bottom cams at the same time.

    This is not just a HOYT problem, all bows have this problem. When they come out of the factory, they have them set approximately correct, but the reference marks, or wholes, or whatever the specific bow company uses, are just not the accurate. The only question is how do you fine tune the bow for best performance.

    JAVI's method works very well for the Hoyt hybrid cam system. Lawler Outdoors has a pretty good article for single cam bows that you can find on their web site. Binary cam bows have there own set of rules, and I'm afraid I don't have a specifie article or site to send you to, but I do know that there is someone out there that can help. Dual cam bows are actually the easiest to adjust, so go with the idea that you adjust tiller than adjust for cams to hit cables at the same time.

    Now, I am kind of giving you the short version of this. It is possible, although very rare in todays quality bows, that you can have tiller correct, and have cam timing correct, but the bow will be a little out of Sync. If this happens, than it means one limb is stronger than the other by quit a bit. Nothing can be done to fix this other than replacement matched limbs. But for the record, unless you are a 300 Vegas shooter, I'll bet you could not even tell, and with cam timing and tiller set the vibration will be gone.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    United States
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    921

    Hoyt Cam 1/2

    Hey Javi thanks for the tips the bow shoots great now and the wall is rock solid just the way I like it.

    Thanks C

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    belgium
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    i can't reach the indicated drawweight

    i finally made my first set of strings and cables

    i have the cam and .5 "C" with lx pro limbs: the tune charts gives me the following:

    sting 62 inch; cable hcbc 51.5 inch and cable hybc 49 inch

    i measured them more than once on the string jig (under a light tension), and they were right on the exact figures given in the tune charts

    installed on the bow with the neccesary twists in in it, so far so good

    but now the problem

    i have the limbs 40 -50 lbs

    with the limb bolts all the way backed IN; i only got 31 lbs on the bow scale!
    thats is the maximum i get out of it, twisting the strings and cables a lot more i reached 34 lbs,


    what went wrong?

    wrong numbers in the tune charts?
    do i have to twist them more (already now the seemed to be overtwisted )
    do i better subtract some amount of tthe measurements given in the tune charts?

    please advise of the experts is really apprciated

    thanks for the trouble
    __________________

  17. #42
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    I have been away for two months and return to see Javi still taking care of business! Go Javi

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by taigo
    i finally made my first set of strings and cables

    i have the cam and .5 "C" with lx pro limbs: the tune charts gives me the following:

    sting 62 inch; cable hcbc 51.5 inch and cable hybc 49 inch

    i measured them more than once on the string jig (under a light tension), and they were right on the exact figures given in the tune charts

    installed on the bow with the neccesary twists in in it, so far so good

    but now the problem

    i have the limbs 40 -50 lbs

    with the limb bolts all the way backed IN; i only got 31 lbs on the bow scale!
    thats is the maximum i get out of it, twisting the strings and cables a lot more i reached 34 lbs,


    what went wrong?

    wrong numbers in the tune charts?
    do i have to twist them more (already now the seemed to be overtwisted )
    do i better subtract some amount of tthe measurements given in the tune charts?

    please advise of the experts is really apprciated

    thanks for the trouble
    __________________
    Have you followed the guidelines from the JAVI post? If the bow was correct before, there is a problem with what you did, but I'm not sure of what it is.

    Check the axle to axle length against the charts and check the brace height. If those two things are correct, than you should have the correct draw weight.

    Remember that Hoyt gives string lengths without twist in them (I sure wish they would not do that ), so you may not have made the strings the correct length, or you may need to add more twist.

    Check Axle to Axle, then check brace height, and get back to us.

  19. #44
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    Location
    belgium
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    127

    something for the real hoyt specialists

    this is the whole story

    see my post above

    i have a protec with lx limbs 40-50 lbs with the accuwheel (i suppose!, the two wheels look exactly the same, only difference i see is the letter "b" (bottom) or "t" (top) engraved in it )

    and in this configuration i could tune the bow in the whole range from 40 to 50 lbs with no problem! (also installed with the string and cablelenghts like mentioned in the tune charts.

    then i changed the accuwheels to cam and 0.5 "C" with the string and cable lenghts indicated in the tune charts of hoyt: result i could max get 31 lbs out of the bow, and i twisted and untwisted cables and string in many different ways , but the max i can get is 31 lbs (see post above)

    is this the way it is meant to be?

    something for the real hoyt expert,
    javi?

    nevertheless i rechanged the bow (for the time being) tot the accuwheels, so i can shoot again! :-)

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by taigo
    this is the whole story

    see my post above

    i have a protec with lx limbs 40-50 lbs with the accuwheel (i suppose!, the two wheels look exactly the same, only difference i see is the letter "b" (bottom) or "t" (top) engraved in it )

    and in this configuration i could tune the bow in the whole range from 40 to 50 lbs with no problem! (also installed with the string and cablelenghts like mentioned in the tune charts.

    then i changed the accuwheels to cam and 0.5 "C" with the string and cable lenghts indicated in the tune charts of hoyt: result i could max get 31 lbs out of the bow, and i twisted and untwisted cables and string in many different ways , but the max i can get is 31 lbs (see post above)

    is this the way it is meant to be?

    something for the real hoyt expert,
    javi?

    nevertheless i rechanged the bow (for the time being) tot the accuwheels, so i can shoot again! :-)
    If only JAVI can help you, PM him directly - but include the whole story for him.

    Just in case you don't mind me filling in a little, cams are designed for specific limbs. Changing cam types will require different limb stiffness, no matter what brand of bow you are talking about.

    Did the Hoyt charts give you limb numbers for the configuration you are trying to do?

    In short, the new cams will not give you the same draw weight with the old limbs.

  21. #46
    wow thanks that made it clear and simple

  22. #47
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    Didnt I see a printable version of this somewhere? If so , I cant find it.

  23. #48
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    .
    Last edited by JAVI; August 30th, 2007 at 07:23 PM.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAVI
    .

    Thanks JAVI

  25. #50
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    Portland, NY
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    Javi Timing Article

    Outstanding article.

    Does this article apply to the Hoyt Trykon XL Zephyr cams ?

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