'10 bowtech admiral flx, 72#, 29.5" draw, 31" ata, ripcord rest, Gold tip pro hunter 7595's
2010 ninja GT500, 29.5/60, Easton flatline 400's, ripcord rest, HHA OL5519, doinker stabilizer. 3d rig
2014 Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo 80 lbs; 2013 Hoyt Spyder Turbo 80 lbs; GoldTip Kinetic XT 300; Grim Reaper Razortip; Trophy Taker Smackdown Pro; GoldTip 30X; Twisted Archer Custom Strings
Marked for later
"Yesterday is history, tomorrow's a mystery."
Nitrum Turbo 70# 29"
Wow, 9 years old and still being read...... Great thread!!
Razzberry Bowtech Heartbreaker (wifes bow)
i find on nmy spyder turbo the harder i pull the better in shoots and if i am doing it right i hit lower so what doi neeed to do to corect his on the timing
Been looking for a tuning guide that relates to my Carbon Spyder and bam, it's been here all along. Great info in this thread.
'13 Elite Pulse - Limbdriver Pro V - Axcel Accutouch - Doinker D.I.S.H
www.Starrflight.com FOB MOB
"Put your time in"
I have just tuned my newly arrived Hoyt Podium X. Both Cams hit the draw stps exactly on time and the wall is solid. My Pro comp elite is set up the same.
I paper tuned the bow today and adjusted the rest and nocking point slightly until I got bullet holes.
With bullet holes in paper, I have noticed that the nocking point is about 1/8 inch below the Berger button hole, which the arrow shaft is perfectly dissecting.
I am wondering if taking a half twist out of the control cable might give me a low tear so that I can raise the nocking point?
I think something is amiss that the bow is shooting bullet holes and the nocking point is low?
1 x Hoyt Pro Comp Elite XL 2014 Spiral X Cam @ 60#, 2 x Hoyt Vantage Elite Plus 2012 @ 60#,Outdoor: x10 Protours, x10's, Profields, Beiter Nocks, Tungsten points,Sure loc Supreme with Black Eagle Scope, Easton X10 Stabilizer, V Bar, Indoor: Easton X7, X23, Triumph. Pro Pins, 5" Feather Vanes, Soxs wraps, CarboFast Stabilizers, Stan release, Truball 360, Truball Absolute 360, 3 x Truball HT Pro brass and loads of other room fillers
Tagging this for my 2015 CST ZT TURBO CAM.
Thanks to all for input.
2015 Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo ZT #3-29/72
2006 Mathews XT 30/73
Can someone pls explain this paragraph from above written by Javi:
To adjust the cams, I back the string off until I’m sure it isn’t affecting the axle to axle (usually ten twists will do) then adjust the buss cable to bring the axle to axle measurement to a ¼” longer than the specifications for that particular cam/limb combination (see Hoyt tune charts). The control cable should be used to sync the rotation of the cams while doing this. If the cams are in sync at this point the reference holes will be equidistance from their respective cables and the tiller will be even (limbs bottomed out).
Going to mark this for later reference
Marked for later use.