'10 bowtech admiral flx, 72#, 29.5" draw, 31" ata, ripcord rest, Gold tip pro hunter 7595's
2010 ninja GT500, 29.5/60, Easton flatline 400's, ripcord rest, HHA OL5519, doinker stabilizer. 3d rig
2014 Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo 80 lbs; 2013 Hoyt Spyder Turbo 80 lbs; GoldTip Kinetic XT 300; Grim Reaper Razortip; Trophy Taker Smackdown Pro; GoldTip 30X; Twisted Archer Custom Strings
Marked for later
"Yesterday is history, tomorrow's a mystery."
Nitrum Turbo 70# 28.5" Hogg Father/Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro/Carbon Blade Stabilizer/Carnivore .300's
Faktor Turbo 65# 28.5" Sureloc Supreme 400/ Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro/Falcon Featherlight Stabilizer/Fatboy .340's
Wow, 9 years old and still being read...... Great thread!!
i find on nmy spyder turbo the harder i pull the better in shoots and if i am doing it right i hit lower so what doi neeed to do to corect his on the timing
Been looking for a tuning guide that relates to my Carbon Spyder and bam, it's been here all along. Great info in this thread.
"Put your time in"
I have just tuned my newly arrived Hoyt Podium X. Both Cams hit the draw stps exactly on time and the wall is solid. My Pro comp elite is set up the same.
I paper tuned the bow today and adjusted the rest and nocking point slightly until I got bullet holes.
With bullet holes in paper, I have noticed that the nocking point is about 1/8 inch below the Berger button hole, which the arrow shaft is perfectly dissecting.
I am wondering if taking a half twist out of the control cable might give me a low tear so that I can raise the nocking point?
I think something is amiss that the bow is shooting bullet holes and the nocking point is low?
1 x Hoyt Pro Comp Elite XL 2014 Spiral X Cam @ 60#, 2 x Hoyt Vantage Elite Plus 2012 @ 60#,Outdoor: x10 Protours, x10's, Profields, Beiter Nocks, Tungsten points,Sure loc Supreme with Black Eagle Scope, Easton X10 Stabilizer, V Bar, Indoor: Easton X7, X23, Triumph. Pro Pins, 5" Feather Vanes, Soxs wraps, CarboFast Stabilizers, Stan release, Truball 360, Truball Absolute 360, 3 x Truball HT Pro brass and loads of other room fillers
Tagging this for my 2015 CST ZT TURBO CAM.
Thanks to all for input.
2015 Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo ZT #3-29/72
2015 Hoyt Tiburon Recurve 64''- 45# @ 28''
2006 Mathews XT 73# @ 30'' ****** FOR SALE******
Can someone pls explain this paragraph from above written by Javi:
To adjust the cams, I back the string off until I’m sure it isn’t affecting the axle to axle (usually ten twists will do) then adjust the buss cable to bring the axle to axle measurement to a ¼” longer than the specifications for that particular cam/limb combination (see Hoyt tune charts). The control cable should be used to sync the rotation of the cams while doing this. If the cams are in sync at this point the reference holes will be equidistance from their respective cables and the tiller will be even (limbs bottomed out).
Going to mark this for later reference
Marked for later use.
Trying to fix the timing /sync on my Hoyt charger, draw stops I can get to hit same time easy enough to but I'm not sure how the holes are meant to light up. Which hole lines with with what string and when in the draw circle will they line up. The guide says they should be equidistant but equal how? And equal to what
Try a different approach. BUSS cable (this is the cable with yoke legs). Adjust the length (add or remove twists) at the bottom of the buss cable, until YOU are happy with the draw weight. Fine. If you are ok with the draw weight, now we work on CAM sync. But, we IGNORE measurements. We ignore holes lining up. We go and shoot arrows. We look at your RESULTS, to adjust cam sync. SHOOT a fletched arrow at 20 yards, and shoot a bareshaft arrow (with no tape at the back end). CAM sync is designed to SHRINK high-low misses. So, we want the BARESHAFT arrow and the FLETCHED arrow, to have the exact same height, when you fire the fletched and bareshaft arrow. Should look like THIS, when you have the CAM sync, adjusted to fit YOU perfectly.Trying to fix the timing /sync on my Hoyt charger, draw stops I can get to hit same time easy enough to but I'm not sure how the holes are meant to light up. Which hole lines with with what string and when in the draw circle will they line up. The guide says they should be equidistant but equal how? And equal to what
20 yards. Run a level strip of masking tape through the x-ring on your target. FIRE a bareshaft. FIRE a fletched arrow. ADJUST the control cable, and aDD more and more half twists, or REMOVE more and more half twists, until you get this result.
BAM. Done. The pointy end of the bareshaft and the pointy end of the fletched arrow are both hitting the top edge of the masking tape, 20 yards away.
BUT BUT BUT, I don't believe in bareshafts. NEVER shot a bareshaft. NEVER will. Fine. Play with the control cable, and ADD more and more half twists, or REMOVE more and more half twists (top end loop of the control cable) until you get the TIGHTEST groups ever, with your FLETCHED arrows. When your HIGH-LOW miss pattern is smaller than ever in your life, you are done.
Arrows have high-low misses. Work your control cable, and tweak in half twists.
MUCH better. BUT BUT BUT, what hole lined up with WHAT string? NO idea. Don't care. Work the control cable, the "CABLE" that has two end loops. NOT the Y shaped cable. The other cable, that looks like a rope. The "String" has a d-loop and a peep sight inside. So, work the ROPE looking thing, that has no d-loop on it.
You don't want the draw stops to hit at the same time. YOu want the DRAW stops to have the TOP draw stop hit FIRST, and you want a small gap on the bottom DRAW stop. LIKE this, at full draw.Trying to fix the timing /sync on my Hoyt charger, draw stops I can get to hit same time easy enough to but I'm not sure how the holes are meant to light up. Which hole lines with with what string and when in the draw circle will they line up. The guide says they should be equidistant but equal how? And equal to what
THIS is full draw in a draw board. Boat winch at one end of the backbone. PIPE at the front end of the backbone. THIS is the top draw stop, at full draw.
THIS is the bottom draw stop, with a small gap, when the top draw stop hits the cable FIRST.
MOST humans get the BEST results, tightest groups, when you setup the control cable twists, to get the TOP stop to hit the cable FIRST, and you have a small gap between the BOTTOM stop and the cable.
tagging to come back later
I'm wondering why Hoyt does not place timing marks or indicators on the cams. My Chill-R has them. And it's a great visual reference to know things are pretty darn close.
"RoadTrips" Tree Saddle, Muddy Sticks & Petzl Aiders?..... "A Killer Combo!"
My limbs are just fine.... Unlike the '02 TomKat that "detonated" (limbs failed twice) many years ago!
Bowtech Prodigy: Sitka Camo, Limb driver, Easton arrows
Another Bowtech at some point