For those who may be interested I have revised the much posted PP slide of the cam & 1/2 draw stop timing. I hope this addition will be easier to understand...
I shot for quite a while with the factory strings, and if you don't mind re-tuning the bow fairly often the 05 strings will be ok and you can just time it per JAVI's instructions.muddog said:Hey! muddog in iowa here. i'm a first time user, but from what i see, i love this site. i have one question about cam 1/2. i have a 2005 vtec. my upper cam is under rotated and my brace height is about a 1/4 in. low. i still have the factory strings, should i twist to retune or should i purchase aftermarket strings and start from scratch.
The directions are talking about the string twist, the bow should have the limb bolts bottomed out for this tuning.ck92 said:When it says back the string off ten twists is it talking about un-twisting the string or is it talking about backing out the limb bolts? Not sure my string is twisted ten times?
You say the Axle to Axle it still 3/8" longer than spec. This should leave you at the 68 # draw indicated, and you should have a little shorter draw length (actual measured dl) than spec.ck92 said:I have installed new strings and cables (winner's choice). The ata is 3/8inch longer than spec. The bump stop and cams look to be right. It is getting 68 pounds with the limbs bottomed out (60 to 70lbs. limbs) and the draw length is short. I am a little lost at this point. The last step reads to twist the string because the bow should be long and heavy, mine is the opposite. Any help from this point would be apprieciated.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I've been swamped this week at work. For starters, having the DL 1/2" too long will not impact accuracy or function of the bow at all, as long as the length fits you. In fact, it might (usually will) add a few fps to your velocity. Now, for the second part of the question.hunohio said:I've gone through and attempted to tune and time my bow a couple times following Javi's instructions. Each time, I've been able to get the cams right in tune, the drawstops perfect, the BH, ATA, tillers, and weight right on, BUT I always end up with the DL a half inch too long (27 1/2 instead of 27). Every time I try to go back and fix that, I end up really screwing things up and it takes me forever to get it back the way it was before trying to correct it. As it turns out, the bow was probably so out of wack that I was shooting an effective DL of 28, so being at 27 1/2 actually feels very comfortable and I don't feel I need to shorten it to shoot properly. I'm just wondering if having everything in spec except the DL creates any problems I'm not aware of.
BTW, if I were to try to shorten the DL, what would I do that wouldn't end up reducing the DW in the process, which has been part of the problem I encounterd before, and/or messing up the timing, etc.?
If you twist the Buss Cable you will only length your draw length and it will take you backward on cam rotation.Steamin said:I read and reread the original on timing and I've got a question on the tiller.
I've got my bow at the set weight that I want to shoot and the brace height is right on. My upper cam (spiral cam) is under rotated.
I've taken 2 twist out of the control cable and the cam is almost there, probably one more twist and I've got it.
The problem is that my lower limb tiller is now 1/8" longer than my top limb.
The b/h is still dead on, am I still okay or do I need to go back and twist my buss cable. I haven't checked my d/w as I'm not able to where I'm at.
Thanks Steamin
You are not the first, and you will not be the last to have problems tuning a bow, any bow.Steamin said:I got it straightened out, stupid mistake on my part :brick: , everything is @ spec. I went ahead and gave the buss cable a twist to help my d/l out. The spiral cam's longest cam is only 30" and I need closer to a 31" anyway, so it's a little more comfortable now (after shooting it too short for 3 yrs.)
The cam is rotating just like it should so I'm anxious to shoot it in the morning, it's always been a sweet shooting bow -- it ought to be even better now.
Thanks
Steamin
XP35 said:One thing I'd like to point out. With my bow starting at 1/4" over on the AtA measurement was too much. I found I needed to start at 1/8" over AtA to get it to come out dead on. This, I would guess, had to do with limb angle and deflection rate....being a parallel limbed bow. I would figure that this (1/4") is not carved in stone and can vary from one model of bow to another. Anyone else notice this??
Take two turns off the limb bolts and shoot it again... if they move further apart then you are overspined... if them move closer together you are under spined...Steamin said:I still can't get my broadheads to group with my field points, they are consistently shooting 2" to the left.
I've tried three different arrow combo's and I get the same affect on each one. Easton's tuning chart say's that I'm overspined, but by the selector chart and the three different arrows I tried, I disagree.
I've moved the whisker bisciut towards the riser until it started affecting my field point flight, then I moved it back to the original.
I'm getting frustrated and aggravated.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Steamin
Remember that there are so many little things that can be overlooked or that can be misunderstood. Just don't give up.ck92 said:How do you adjust the A2A? Shortening it should increase bow weight correct? Can I adjust it without throwing off the bump stop and cam timing? I have twisted and untwisted all cables and string several times. I have had the timing marks in several equal locations and then did the bump stop timing. And everytime when I check the A2A and weight it is long and a little light. I am hoping to get it right by october
First, go get a cold epsi: and maybe a little :slice: and relax. This is not the end of the world. Many people just resight for that when they shoot their broadheads so if the worse comes to worse you can too.:thumbs_upSteamin said:I still can't get my broadheads to group with my field points, they are consistently shooting 2" to the left.
I've tried three different arrow combo's and I get the same affect on each one. Easton's tuning chart say's that I'm overspined, but by the selector chart and the three different arrows I tried, I disagree.
I've moved the whisker bisciut towards the riser until it started affecting my field point flight, then I moved it back to the original.
I'm getting frustrated and aggravated.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Steamin