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Thread: Tuning an Elite bow

  1. #1
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    Tuning an Elite bow

    Binary cams are easy.



    I've noticed several threads where folks are asking tuning questions or asking where to send their bow to for tuning.

    I lifted this from the Elite forum and it's from Rgarbarino: http://www.elitearchery.com/forums/s...-Tuning-Basics

    This will get your Elite shooting lights out. There are a few other tricks for more or less cam rollover or where you want to split the draw length specs, but this will certainly get 95% out of your bow.
    To tune an Elite correctly you will need a draw board with a turnbuckle for fine tuning the draw stops and a weight scale to set draw weight. The most important specs when tuning an Elite are draw weight and draw length. Axle to axle and brace height should fall into spec when the draw weight and draw length are correct but remember that every spec has a + or - tolerance so it may vary a little. If the ATA spec is 33.5 it could still be correct if it's + or - 1/8 inch.

    Let’s assume the string and cables are starting at the correct lengths and have not been all twisted/untwisted all out of whack. If they are out of spec I'll mention how to get them to the right length at the end.

    If you have a cam on your Elite bow that references a timing hole on the cam and what distance it should be from the limb you can pretty much ignore this hole. It's only a reference mark, both holes may not be in the exact same position top and bottom and there is a + and - tolerance here too. I never measure this distance. If you want to you can and as long as it's close to the spec listed you will be fine.

    You want to use the timing dots along the outer edge of the cam and set your timing by where the inside cable crosses these dots. You want the top and bottom cam to have the exact same timing dot in the exact same location where the cable crosses these timing dots. There is no specific dot you need to be on. If your draw length and draw weight are correct and the cams are in sync then it doesn't matter which dot you are hitting. There have been videos on youtube about Elite tuning that say to hit a specific dot. It's bunk because different draw lengths and different draw weights will hit different dots.

    The first thing you want to do when tuning an Elite is sync the cams. So, get your bow on a draw board and draw it back until the stops are just touching the limbs. Don't crank it back so the stops are pulling back hard into the limbs, just barely touching. This is where the turnbuckle comes into play. I draw my bow back until there is about a 1/8" gap between the stop and the limb. Then I'll use the turnbuckle to fine tune the stop so it just touches. At this point I also like to leave the lower stop loose but have the top stop maxed all the way out. Look at the timing dots to see of the inner cable is hitting the same place top and bottom. If it is then you are synced and can move on to setting the stops to hit the limbs at the same time. I'll go over this later. If your cables are not crossing the exact same dots top and bottom then you need to twist or untwist the cable to get them in sync. If you need to move the top cam you twist/untwist the cable that is attached to the outer post (the one easiest to get to) on the bottom cam. If you need to move the bottom cam you twist/untwist the cable that is attached to the outer post (the one easiest to get to) on the top cam. The Elite cam system is a slaved system so any move you make to one cam will also slightly affect the other cam. You are looking for the perfect balance that gets the top and bottom cam in the exact same position. Keep making small adjustments to whichever cable you need to twist/untwist until the cams are in sync. A half twist at a time will get you there. I full twist/untwist will move the cable approx. a half dot. You are looking for the cables to hit the EXACT same spot top and bottom. If you make a move and it goes in the wrong direction, just twist/untwist the opposite of what you just did. Sometimes it helps to have a note pad to write down every move you make so you have a history of what you did.

    So let's say you now have your cams in perfect sync. The next thing to do is set your draw weight and draw length. This is where you need a scale to use with your draw board. Put the bow on the draw board, hook the scale to the D-loop and the winch of the draw board to the scale. Crank it back and watch the scale to see what the peak weight is. You want to see the peak as you are drawing, if you stop drawing to look at weight you will get a lower reading. You don't want to check peak weight when the bow is static. You should also hit the peak weight about 6 to 6 1/2" into the draw cycle. This will also help tell you if you are timed/synced. Most Elite bows will peak about 1-4 pounds over the rated draw weight. So, if you have a 60# bow you should try and hit a peak draw weight of about 61-64#'s when your draw length is also correct. If your draw weight is low you want to add the same number of twists to BOTH cables to keep the cams in sync. ADDING twists will increase draw weight and increase draw length, REMOVING twists will decrease draw weight and decrease draw length. As a general rule I keep a twist/untwist ratio of about 3 to 1 on the strings and cable. So, for every 3 twists I put in the cables, I will put 1 twist in the string. For every 3 untwists I take out of the cables, I will take 1 untwist on the string. Once you hit the peak draw weight you want to measure the draw length and see where you are. If the strings/cables were the correct length to begin with then the draw length should be very close if not perfect. Some bows may run a little long in the draw by 1/8 to 3/8", not a huge deal. This is where you have to play with both the cables and the string at the same time to try and achieve the perfect balance of draw weight and draw length. If the draw weight is good but the draw length is a little off you can twist/untwist just the string. Every move you make either to the cables or string will have an effect on draw weight and draw length, you are looking for a good balance. To measure draw length, I measure from the deepest part of the grip to the string at full draw and add 1.75". Always double check cam sync with every move you make and adjust if necessary to keep them in perfect time.

    Now you have your peak draw weight set and your draw length is correct. You want to set your draw stops so they hit the limbs at exactly the same time. Because there may be slight variances in limbs the stops may not be in exactly the same location on the cams. That's not what's important anyway as long as they hit at the EXACT same time. Here's how I do it. On the top cam I put the stop all the way out to the maxed position and tighten it down. On the bottom cam I put the stop in but leave it loose. Go back to the draw board and draw the bow back to where the top stop is almost hitting the top limb. Now use the turnbuckle to bring the top stop to where it just touches the top limb. Go to the bottom stop and bring it into position to where it is also just touching the bottom limb. Tighten it down and you now have a top and bottom draw stop that are hitting both limbs at EXACTLY the same time. Don't worry if they are not in the same position in the draw stop slot.

    To set cables/strings to spec length you need to measure them while under 100# of tension. There are many ways to do this so I won't go into too much detail. What you do is put the strings on a 1/4" post or hook and pull to 100# of tension. Measure from the outside of 1 post to the outside of the other post to get your measurement. If you are longer than spec then twist the cable/string to shorten it and re-measure. If you are short then untwist the cable/string to lengthen. String and cable lengths for all Elite bows can be found on the Elite webpage in the tech section.
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  2. #2
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    113 views without a comment?

    This has to be some kind of record!
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  3. #3
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    Genius . Thank you for the write up
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  4. #4
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    This is the write up I used to set-up my e35. Worked great.
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  5. #5
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    great run down.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepw2 View Post
    This is the write up I used to set-up my e35. Worked great.
    Me too.....
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  7. #7
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    I'm curious if there is any information on the effect to draw length/holding weight/speed when you adjust the position of the draw stops. I haven't played with it much and was hoping for some real numbers. Thanks
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  8. #8
    Wow! Thanks for the info. I need to make myself a drawboard & a press, so I can do this for myself.

  9. #9
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    Interesting !

  10. #10
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    Good stuff! Thanks.
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  11. #11
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    Great tips!
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  12. #12
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    Great write up Carl
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  13. #13
    Looks like some good info I will check it out again later

  14. #14
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    Thanks!
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  15. #15
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    Great post, thanks for the info. When you say 1/2 twist in a cable moves the cam 1/2 a dot, are you talking 1/2 a dot width, or half the distance between dots?

    I just built myself a draw board to check cam sync on my '12 Pure and found the top cam is ahead by 1/2 the width of the larger diameter dots, maybe 1/16th to 1/32nd of an inch. Just wondering if I'm going to be able to do better than 1/32nd inch out of sync with 1/2 twists or not. Thanks for any advice!

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by 7-Pointers View Post
    Great post, thanks for the info. When you say 1/2 twist in a cable moves the cam 1/2 a dot, are you talking 1/2 a dot width, or half the distance between dots?

    I just built myself a draw board to check cam sync on my '12 Pure and found the top cam is ahead by 1/2 the width of the larger diameter dots, maybe 1/16th to 1/32nd of an inch. Just wondering if I'm going to be able to do better than 1/32nd inch out of sync with 1/2 twists or not. Thanks for any advice!
    Just bought a 12 pure. My cams are synched as good as I can get them. Still getting bad arrow flight. What is your set up if you don't mind me asking?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7-Pointers View Post
    Great post, thanks for the info. When you say 1/2 twist in a cable moves the cam 1/2 a dot, are you talking 1/2 a dot width, or half the distance between dots?

    I just built myself a draw board to check cam sync on my '12 Pure and found the top cam is ahead by 1/2 the width of the larger diameter dots, maybe 1/16th to 1/32nd of an inch. Just wondering if I'm going to be able to do better than 1/32nd inch out of sync with 1/2 twists or not. Thanks for any advice!
    Like I said, I lifted this info from the Elite forum.

    The only way to tell with your timing is to try 1/2 twist and see where it lands you. Don't forget you can either put 1/2 twist in at one end or take 1/2 twist out at the other. They don't always give the same movement. I think it differs because the individual cables don't always have the exact same amount of twist in them.
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  18. #18
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  19. #19
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    I look forward to using the write up when it gets warm enough outside to tune my e32...
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  20. #20
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    Good point about different twist.

  21. #21
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    PWOODNC,

    I've tried just about every tuning method out there and I like bare shaft tuning the best. I tune until bare shafts hit within 0.5 inches of fletched at 15-20 yds on shots where i have no flaws (torque, punching, dropping/lifting bow arm during the shot, etc). Not sure my setup would help you, but a few things I have found are:

    1). My arrows fly best with my drop away rest set to hold center of arrow at center of Berger hole.
    2). Nock height set to get almost exactly 90 degrees string to cable angle.
    3). I turned my cable guard to 4:30 to ease cam lean a bit, not sure if it helps,or not.
    4). I shoot a D-loop without a brass nock locator so I only adjust nock height in increments of about 1/32 inch (one twist of D loop ariund e string). In order to get nock height just right I ended up changing limb weight a bit, -1/8th turn on top, +1/16th turn on bottom (net difference of 1 lb heavy on bottom).

    Not sure any of this will help you though, only solution is to sync the cams based on dots, then set nock height using any of he popular method (no question bare shaft is best IMHO), then set center shot (again bareshaft is best for me). One note if you plan to bare shaft tune, I tend to ignore all that business about arrow angle since the arrow angle will sometimes change to find the path of least resistance in the target. Instead I tune until impact point is within 0.5 inch of fletched impact point.

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by 7-Pointers View Post
    PWOODNC,

    I've tried just about every tuning method out there and I like bare shaft tuning the best. I tune until bare shafts hit within 0.5 inches of fletched at 15-20 yds on shots where i have no flaws (torque, punching, dropping/lifting bow arm during the shot, etc). Not sure my setup would help you, but a few things I have found are:

    1). My arrows fly best with my drop away rest set to hold center of arrow at center of Berger hole.
    2). Nock height set to get almost exactly 90 degrees string to cable angle.
    3). I turned my cable guard to 4:30 to ease cam lean a bit, not sure if it helps,or not.
    4). I shoot a D-loop without a brass nock locator so I only adjust nock height in increments of about 1/32 inch (one twist of D loop ariund e string). In order to get nock height just right I ended up changing limb weight a bit, -1/8th turn on top, +1/16th turn on bottom (net difference of 1 lb heavy on bottom).

    Not sure any of this will help you though, only solution is to sync the cams based on dots, then set nock height using any of he popular method (no question bare shaft is best IMHO), then set center shot (again bareshaft is best for me). One note if you plan to bare shaft tune, I tend to ignore all that business about arrow angle since the arrow angle will sometimes change to find the path of least resistance in the target. Instead I tune until impact point is within 0.5 inch of fletched impact point.
    Thanks, will try your suggestions. I've got a tt spring steal on it now but may try a vp limb driver.

  23. #23
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    Tag.. Good info

  24. #24
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    I have 13 hunter, cams seem to be in time but it is maxed out at 62#, bow is a 65#, I figure it 4 pounds off. how many twists should I start at on my cables?
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