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Thread: Tuning an Elite bow

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    UP of Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by sIllBowtech View Post
    I have 13 hunter, cams seem to be in time but it is maxed out at 62#, bow is a 65#, I figure it 4 pounds off. how many twists should I start at on my cables?
    Forum name is "Bowtech?" Ha ha

    If I were you I'd follow the above tuning procedure all the way through. Since you will have to have your bow on a press to begin with, with a draw board you can MAKE SURE your cams are sinchronised.

    To answer your question directly. First, try a couple of scales first. I know of three in our town, all good quality, that read in a 5# difference. Your bow just might already be to weight.

    If you are confident with the scale you are using, it will depend on how tightly your cables are twisted already since an additional twist to a tightly twisted cable will yield more movement than a twist to a less tightly twisted cable.

    ha Ha I had fun writing that.....but it is true.

    In the end.......I'd probably start by keeping a log and give each cable a full twist, then check your poundage. Keep doing this until you get the poundage you want.



    Every time you twist cables to up the poundage you are also increasing the draw length. Like the article says, it's about a 3 twists to the cables to one twist to the string.
    You young people will never know the satisfaction of slamming down a receiver on a rotary phone


  2. #27
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Carbondale,Ill
    Posts
    281
    Thanks CarlV, will try what you said. I will try and find a different scale first. guess I need to build a drawboard. lol yes Bowtech is part of my name, lol, I still love my Allegiance, dang good bow.
    13 Elite Hunter
    07 Bowtech Allegiance

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    415
    Just changed mods from 29.5 to 30. I have a QAD rest on the bow. My cam timing is off about 1/8". Both stops are at the minimum position and hitting at the same time.
    Should I bother to try to tune it to perfection? Is the QAD doing this 1/8 off?
    2013 PSE EVO MAX

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    UP of Michigan
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    4,337
    Quote Originally Posted by Cruzman View Post
    My cam timing is off about 1/8". Should I bother to try to tune it to perfection? Is the QAD doing this 1/8 off?
    Yes, I would get the cams synchronized. And no, I can't see the QAD taking the cams out of sync unless you have the cord pulling gosh-awful hard on the cable.
    You young people will never know the satisfaction of slamming down a receiver on a rotary phone

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    southwest va
    Posts
    211
    Good write up. Makes me not fear buying a elite as bad. This has been my biggest concern I am down to hoyt factor elite energy and bowtec experience. Was worried about trying to tune the elite. Thanks for the good write. Up

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    415
    Well I haven't sync the cams yet on my E35 but shot through paper tonight at our club and PERFECT bullet hole. Blew a nock off an arrow and was just plain driving tacks tonight. Not gonna change anything for a bit.
    I will look at the cam timing in a week or so and see where they are then and go from there. I also don't have much cam lean for all that are wondering. Not concerned one bit at this point about cam lean.
    I am shooting 58 lbs DW, 30" DL and easton bloodlines 340 29" with 125 gr point. Center shot is set at 13/16 and my arrow is perfectly level for nock height. The arrow is going through the Berger hole but I can see the bottom of the Berger hole just abit. (1/8" maybe??) Draw stops at at the minimum setting giving me about 75% let off.
    Bow just feels amazing at this point!!!
    2013 PSE EVO MAX

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    central valley california
    Posts
    1,423
    Subd.. I will use this info to tune Mt primal
    2011 QUEST PRIMAL
    PRO v rest G5 the rock sight
    B STINGER 8" sport stab Paradigm cta string stop
    Catfish custom bcy x strings Hotshot vapor release

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    2,590
    tagged for the future
    Holy son of a gun....I'm down to only one bow now. I'm ashamed of myself

  9. #34
    Tagged

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,962
    Good info.

    matt
    Elite E35---Easton Nemesis arrows, Ramcat's, HHA 5519, QAD HDX rest, Scott release

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Front Range, CO
    Posts
    53
    Lifted off YouTube. It might help even though it is a Judge, principle still applies to current bows...I believe.


  12. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    50
    Thanks for the write up.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    50
    Should the limb bolts be tightened down before tuning starts? Will adjustment to the limb bolts change the sync?

  14. #39
    Will be using this info. Thanks!
    ~ 2011 Bowtech Invasion Black Opps
    ~ 2011 Bowtech Invasion MOTS

  15. #40
    Great info! Tagged

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    SE Pennsylvania (Spring City)
    Posts
    11,038
    The bow should be maxed out on poundage when you start the tuning process. While older Elites from 2013 and earlier hit peak weight 6 - 6.5 inches into the draw cycle, the new Energy bows don't hit peak weight until around 13" into the cycle.

    I had questions about the proper cam orientation on my E32 so I called the Elite technical department and spoke with Dick. He said they don't publish or state any specific cam orientation or positioning with the 2014 bows. He said what you want to do is get the ATA and BH measurements in spec and that will put the cams where they need to be.

  17. #42
    About to get started tuning E32. Thanks for post.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Concord, NC
    Posts
    165
    Well I have read and re-read the timing procedure and still have a couple questions. I think I have gotten it correct but wanted to make sure. I made a draw board to get everything set up but no local shop has a scale to put in line on the board so I am stuck on that.

    Anyway when I picked the bow up it pulled 64.6 lbs on his scale and was told it was good to go. I asked about cam timing and if we should paper tune just for giggles and pretty much was told it's good to go. He has been working on bows for 25+years and it's good according to them.
    Any way I am the consummate tinkerer and wasn't satisfied with that so made my own board. First time owning a binary so please overlook any ignorance on my part.

    First measument has Ata and brace within specs. Ata was.125 over and brace right at 7 . first pull had the stops equal and cam dots almost a dot off. One at 7 one at 8. Twisted the cables. This is after about 60 arrows or so set up from factory.

    So twisted the cables and got them close to same dot. One cable slightly behind one slightly ahead. Reset the stops to the same and then hooked up my qad rest. Drew bow had wife count the dots and it was off again by almost a dot. I assume the rest was pulling one cam out of time. Back to the board and reset everything this time with rest cord attached. Drew bow had my lovely wife assistant check and both cables line up on dot 9 now with me drawing the bow at my anchor and hold.

    Ata is right back to +. 125 and brace is at dead 7.

    Have not shot it yet but wanted to see if my madness made sense. Only thing left to check is dl and I will do that before I go any further. I am going to draw and have her measure for me while I hold it. I don't have a tape for the draw board yet.

    Without having a scale does everything make sense? To me it does but like I said it's my first time with this system. Should I time every thing with the rest?

    Even though my Ata and brace was at spec the cam dots were not aligned and a previous post said Elite stated if those two were good cam timing would fall to where it needed to be. That just didn't make sense to me

    Thanks in advance.

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Concord, NC
    Posts
    165
    Forgot to add I have 65 lb limbs

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Red Deer, Alberta
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    286
    marked for future.
    Vegas---- 2012 Contender Elite & 2712's
    FITA------2012 Contender Elite & 2315's
    Foam-----???? & GT X-Cutters

  21. #46
    Nicko commented on the sweet spot for cam starting position and I just have a question for anyone. I have #2 mods on my 35 and switched out my strings a week back. Tuning this weekend and the bow is shooting incredibly. Bare shafts taking nocks off fletched, and bullet holes with a variety of spines. Limbs are backed off two turns, ATA is 1/16" long, BH is dead on. My valley/let off is lessened a bit but my draw has no rollover into the valley smooth as can be even at 30.5". Stops are maxed out. Since I am shooting 3d right now I like it the way it is right now with the less let off but come hunting I might want more valley. My question is... My cam starting position is not close at all too the cables going through the hole in the cam, my cams seem to be further advanced. Do mod sizes affect starting position at all? Should I twist cables and retract the cams a little? If I did will I gain valley so I can move stops forward to keep current feel? Just dont want to screw up my tune. Thanks!
    2011 PSE Axe 7, QAD, HHA, SS1
    2014 Elite E35, QAD, HHA, SS1
    PSE Coyote Takedown 55#
    My 3 sons: 12YO-Heartbreaker, 10YO-Razor Edge, 6YO- WC Phantom

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    4,243
    The position of the cables from the timing holes changes from dl to dl, only way to use those holes is in reference to how close or how far they are from the bottom of the limb. To get your valley back id add twists to the cables just to be sure to apply the 3 cables twists to 1 string twist principle so your dl stays the same, then you can move your stops in for 3d if u like the feel.
    Quote Originally Posted by NeshotaValley View Post
    Nicko commented on the sweet spot for cam starting position and I just have a question for anyone. I have #2 mods on my 35 and switched out my strings a week back. Tuning this weekend and the bow is shooting incredibly. Bare shafts taking nocks off fletched, and bullet holes with a variety of spines. Limbs are backed off two turns, ATA is 1/16" long, BH is dead on. My valley/let off is lessened a bit but my draw has no rollover into the valley smooth as can be even at 30.5". Stops are maxed out. Since I am shooting 3d right now I like it the way it is right now with the less let off but come hunting I might want more valley. My question is... My cam starting position is not close at all too the cables going through the hole in the cam, my cams seem to be further advanced. Do mod sizes affect starting position at all? Should I twist cables and retract the cams a little? If I did will I gain valley so I can move stops forward to keep current feel? Just dont want to screw up my tune. Thanks!
    Elite Z28 Snow 65#: Easton Bowfire, Muzzy, Qad, Black Gold, X-factor
    Elite Energy 35:Elite Ultra rest, black gold, easton injexion, x-factor
    Elite Answer *ninja*: QAD, Black Gold, Injexion, Muzzy
    Elite Energy 32 80#

  23. #48
    Perfect. Thanks for verifying that for me!
    2011 PSE Axe 7, QAD, HHA, SS1
    2014 Elite E35, QAD, HHA, SS1
    PSE Coyote Takedown 55#
    My 3 sons: 12YO-Heartbreaker, 10YO-Razor Edge, 6YO- WC Phantom

  24. #49
    Join Date
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    No better friend, no worse enemy

    10 Stormy Alphaburner (currently for sale)
    08.5 Elite Z-28
    Prehistoric PSE Nova (so you fancy huh?)

  25. #50
    Great article (especially for a relatively new bow hunter). Helps me a lot understand more about my GT500 -- which I love.
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