February 8th, 2014, 02:30 PM
Side bar / v bar question
I am trying to understand the physic of these. I know the formula about back weight.
But what is the effect of angling your side bar vs straight back? For example
- angle down ?
- angle left?
- angle down and left?
Thx in advance
February 8th, 2014, 10:20 PM
Lots of viewers no responses
February 10th, 2014, 02:10 PM
The side bar or bars will do a few things. They will help you keep your scope bubble level with how you hold the bow. They will help steady your float and also help minimize how bad your misses are. The majority of time you will be able to feel comfortable with just one side bar.
Being right handed and having your bow hand at 45 degrees it will put a natural cant into your bow to have the top cam right of your bottom cam. The stabilizer on the left side can level that out. Starting with the stabilizer up against the bow and moving it out until you are naturally level.
If you are having problems with left misses you can move the stabilizer bar out to the left more and more until those clean up.
The v bar situation, having two bars, are for helping when the side bar is all the way against the riser and you are still having problems with right misses. This isn't very common, but as all things archery, everyone is different and unique.
The angle of the bar down is to help take the mass of the weights out of the center of the bow and lower the center of gravity. This will help with holding steadier and misses too. Also, you can run more weight out back and overall on the bow as you start to angle the bar down because you are essentially shortening the overall length of the bar extending away from the riser.
February 25th, 2014, 05:11 PM
I use this to help me with setting up and tuning in stabilizers still workin on it .
Had a question regarding this on another forum so I thought I would it here:
Everyones bow combined with their bodies build will be different, as what works for them will be as well. The roll of any stabilizer is to give resistance to Rotation/Movement so that when you come back to your anchor your sight picture settles as quickly as possible and then allows you to hold strong on the target. When the perfect combo is found you will be able to easily control your small movements with out over compensating and bouncing back in fourth....almost like slowing down the speed on your computers mouse. A lot of archers use to think that a bow is balanced perfect when the bow is not drawn and balancing perfect Left to Right and Front to back so that your bubble is dead level.....This is in fact a Perfect balance but totally not what you want for holding steady as it will easily pivot in your hand when back at draw. This will make it very hard for you to make little movements without over compensate. So what needs to be done is to give the bows balance a direction, an imperfect balance will give resistance to Rotation/Movement and when back at draw will not pivot easily in your hand, allowing you to make the miner adjustments needed easily to find the center of the target and hold steady on there. The easiest way to accomplish this is with just one sidebar, giving the bows balance a direction.
Now the first thing you want to do is get the bows balance to a point where it is easy to find the target and then hold on the spot, we will worry about the bubble on your sight later. First we need a neutral starting point, move your side bar in as close to the string as possible without having string clearance issues and have it running in aline with you front bars same height. This is more than likely will be in your bodies way....especially with 12-15" bars. Start off with like 4oz on your front bar and 6oz on your back bar....good starting point. This bar position for most peoples body and bow combined is close to perfect for a lot of people. Now when back at anchor see what your sight picture is doing, moving Left to Right....back and forth, you need to do One of Two things...move the bar out one click and maybe add .5-1oz. Shoot and see what it does, not right......still really moving then move one more click out and maybe add some weight. You must make sure to move it very little at a time as we are really fine tuning the way our controlling muscles react to the different weight and balance. If the Sight picture is moving Up and Down then you need to do One of Two things.....Add Weight and or lower the sidebar one click.....repeat this until it holds steady.
Now lets say you are happy with the way you are approaching the target but you seem to be holding on the bottom of the spot....and every time you try to lift it, you just end up moving too much. If this happens then you would want to add a weight on the Sidebar and maybe even take a weight off the front. The opposite applies when you are having a hard time coming down on the target....and you just sit on top of the spot, if this is the case you will want to either add .5-1oz to the front or take it off the sidebar.
Lets say you have now found the perfect combo but when you look at your bubble it's a little high on the opposing side of your sidebar.....this is where we have to find the sweet spot between what allows you to hold good and level your bubble at the same time. You can either bring that sidebar back in towards the string one click at a time or play with thew weights until you not only hold strong but you have a level bubble. Sometimes its just really hard to have both with just the sidebar......this is where a V-Bar would come into play. Now the issue with V-bars for most archers is that they set them up too close to a perfect balance and they are not giving their bows balance a direction like it needs. This can be overcome by adding more weight to your bow arm side then on the other or even use a shorter bar on the same side as your sight and a little less weight. Sometimes the side bar on the same side of your sight is not even needed and just some weight on the mount on that side is enough to level the bubble. I have set people up with a 15" sidebar on the bow arm side in a 10 degree down/like 20 out and on the other side 10" out with very little weight pointed out like 40 degrees. I have to be honest, fixed mounts are OK and you can make them work by playing with different length bars and different weights but it's the Fully Adjustable mounts that really allow you to fine tune just perfect for you and your bows geometry. Everyone is built different and applies different hand pressure to the bow, combine this with all the different bows geometries and you get something that formulas are really hard to tune by. Really get a good adjustable mount as this is one of the most important parts on your bow as it truly acts like the Steering Wheel for your bows balance!
I would use our Standard AOSM or AVBM for archers that don't like a lot of weight on their bars.....anything under 12oz. Use the Platinum mounts for anything over 12oz and use the Platinum Matrix for odd risers like the Hoyt Carbon Matrix or some of PSE's risers
Shoot Straight......Be Stable.....Doink On!!!
Erick J. Hall
February 25th, 2014, 06:03 PM
Hoyt Spyder 30/Hoyt Alphaelite--CBE--Scott--Gold Tip--Vane Tec--Doinker--Sitka--First Lite--S&S Archery-->
February 27th, 2014, 02:40 PM
subscribed;trying to figure this out as well..thanks!
June 15th, 2014, 10:50 PM