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Thread: PSE (or hybrid cam) tuning tips

  1. #26
    Mmiles, I think your comparison is good. My only clarification would be that it doesn't even matter if the arrow is flying cleanly.... Even with a hard tail left...the arrow doesn't drift right with distance (with a field tip).



  2. #27
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    Wow thanks for taking the time to type all this great info out. Very nice to have it all one spot.
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  3. #28
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    Good stuff tmorelli. Thanks for sharing.
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  4. #29
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    It is great info...Thanks for taking the time to type it out...Grizz
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  5. #30
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    Threads like this help newb tuners like myself! Thanks...
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  6. #31
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    Paper tuning is a good start after setting the basics. Use level form

    Bare shaft at 20 yrds next. Use level form.

    Walk back tune only after you have the skills to shoot level.

    Level is the key word here. I could get a perfect paper tear and see my old bow drift 8 inches on a walk back. All due to being 1/2 a bubble off plumb/ level.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    Its all there already. That's my point.... 25 years and countless bows and setups of my own and for others....no walk back.... No French. No issues.

    You tell me why...
    Consider this.

    A lot of it comes down to how level your form is when testing. More so for finger shooters. Hold the aim after the shot , Many archers are sloppy and think they are testing their bows right , when they are trying above personal skill. Some people don't need to be told to aim and follow thru. It just comes natural. Others like myself had to develop muscle memory. When the set up is matched well, it comes down to human failure to repeat.

  8. #33
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    I have a question regarding bare shaft tuning, if you look at your bare shafts and not straight into the target (Rhinoblock), say the nocks are high and right as compared to the straight fletched arrows. Is that how the bare shaft is coming off the bow?
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  9. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by va limbhanger View Post
    I have a question regarding bare shaft tuning, if you look at your bare shafts and not straight into the target (Rhinoblock), say the nocks are high and right as compared to the straight fletched arrows. Is that how the bare shaft is coming off the bow?
    If it is repeatable, yes. Be cautious of target caused issues though.

  10. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Astroguy View Post
    Paper tuning is a good start after setting the basics. Use level form

    Bare shaft at 20 yrds next. Use level form.

    Walk back tune only after you have the skills to shoot level.

    Level is the key word here. I could get a perfect paper tear and see my old bow drift 8 inches on a walk back. All due to being 1/2 a bubble off plumb/ level.
    Quote Originally Posted by Astroguy View Post
    Consider this.

    A lot of it comes down to how level your form is when testing. More so for finger shooters. Hold the aim after the shot , Many archers are sloppy and think they are testing their bows right , when they are trying above personal skill. Some people don't need to be told to aim and follow thru. It just comes natural. Others like myself had to develop muscle memory. When the set up is matched well, it comes down to human failure to repeat.

    "Level" form?

    Are you just talking about the second axis?

    Yes, second axis must be set right and repeatable to shoot accurately during or after tuning. I'm not sure if holding the bow level is a learned skill.

    Since none of the arrow flight tuning methods I use involve moving the sight..... I'm not sure where you're going with this.

    If I have the bow running at least as well as me....and I possess the skill to do anything I want with it....why would I go walk back tune?

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    If it is repeatable, yes. Be cautious of target caused issues though.
    I think I know what you mean? Your talking about using soft target bags or possibly getting a bad arrow angle from hitting other shafts in the target?
    I'm just starting to get into bare shaft tuning and so far the toughest thing for me has been sometimes deciding on what course of action to take to correct an issue. Seems sometimes there can be more than one adjustment needed, or maybe one adjustment should be made before all others. That sort of stuff, but it sure is a challenge and that's what makes it interesting for me. I'm sure I just need to put in more time with it and it will become clear. Thanks.
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  12. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by va limbhanger View Post
    I think I know what you mean? Your talking about using soft target bags or possibly getting a bad arrow angle from hitting other shafts in the target?
    I'm just starting to get into bare shaft tuning and so far the toughest thing for me has been sometimes deciding on what course of action to take to correct an issue. Seems sometimes there can be more than one adjustment needed, or maybe one adjustment should be made before all others. That sort of stuff, but it sure is a challenge and that's what makes it interesting for me. I'm sure I just need to put in more time with it and it will become clear. Thanks.
    Yes on the target. Don't make a decision off one arrow.... Make sure its repeatable.

    I think I basically typed my summary in the sequence I attack a new setup. If yours is "established" then I think sequence isn't so important. Attack the problem...one thing at a time. Most guys like to take care of the vertical stuff first....I guess I tackle the worst first. In any case, fixing one often improves the other too.

  13. #38
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    Thanks for all the great info. I have a new bow coming in and have been trying to find all the info I need in order to get it set up.

    I had a question about bottom cam lean at full draw. Should I be shimming the cam to get it vertical? Or just get it close to vertical without going past. The bow is a full throttle and I have been reading lots of posts about how the draw stop is almost missing the cable etc...

    My last bow was a bowtech and am used to having the cams being the mirror image of each other. I don't have any experience with this type of cam system or how the cam lean should look before I start fooling with tuning. I assume I should get the top cam vertical at fool draw and the bottom the same or at least close.

    John

  14. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Jfk742 View Post
    Thanks for all the great info. I have a new bow coming in and have been trying to find all the info I need in order to get it set up.

    I had a question about bottom cam lean at full draw. Should I be shimming the cam to get it vertical? Or just get it close to vertical without going past. The bow is a full throttle and I have been reading lots of posts about how the draw stop is almost missing the cable etc...

    My last bow was a bowtech and am used to having the cams being the mirror image of each other. I don't have any experience with this type of cam system or how the cam lean should look before I start fooling with tuning. I assume I should get the top cam vertical at fool draw and the bottom the same or at least close.

    John
    Tune first. Let the tune tell you what the cam lean needs.

    The only reason I'd shim before tuning is if I felt a cam was dangerously close to drawing past the stop...that isn't anything I expect to see on any of the factory built pse's.

  15. #40
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    This should be a sticky at the top of this forum BTW. Who do we need to talk to, to make that happen?
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  16. #41
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    Bump for an extremely informative thread.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPR79 View Post
    Bump for an extremely informative thread.
    No need, we got it stickied!!
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  18. #43
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    Question about tuning with the flex cable guard. So if I want to eliminate a left bare shaft tear, I would tighten the flex guard or loosen it?
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  19. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by CRISSMAN6903 View Post
    Question about tuning with the flex cable guard. So if I want to eliminate a left bare shaft tear, I would tighten the flex guard or loosen it?
    You would tighten it down.

    Careful though, this is and should be a very fine adjustment. If you have to do much with it, I'd say you may have missed it elsewhere in your tune. In theory, the more "backed off" the flex guard is, the more benefit you get from it (torque reduction).

  20. #45
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    Nice thread. good info in it so it is stuck
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  21. #46
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    Good thread, will help people save a lot of time
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  22. #47
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    Tag on tuning. Thanks

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    Philosophically, I tend to think many of our tuning methods and other rituals are really about putting our minds at ease with our equipment. What we have confidence in performs the best for us.
    SHAZAM! Best insight I've read on AT in years.
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  24. #49
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    How did I miss this ? Nice write up Tmorelli. I see I'm gonna have to hang out in the PSE forum a little more often..

  25. #50
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    Found It. Thanks for posting and Troll on!
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