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Thread: PSE (or hybrid cam) tuning tips

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Connecticut
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    514
    Super! Lots and lots of great work here! Thank you for taking the time to do this. Marked for future use. Should be a sticky.



  2. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by Cdpkook132 View Post
    Found It. Thanks for posting and Troll on!
    Thanks. I like to think of it as fighting the good fight.... But I realize terrorists probably think they are too.

  3. #53
    Great read Tony! I see you are sharing your wealth of knowledge my friend. Good job.
    Owner: YankeeRebel Finger Slings

  4. #54
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Chesterland, Ohio, United States
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    i. PSE uses three sizes of shims
    1. Thick = .120
    2. Medium = .060
    3. Thin = .020
    So, I had moved my bottom cam earlier in the week, and I tried out some 2712's tonight instead of the Challengers I had been using. Well, started throwing left tears (LH shooter), and since I had put 2 shims on the left side of the bottom cam, so moved one back to the right tonight. I pulled out a digital caliper (nothing too precise, from Harbor Freight) to check which shim was which. Well, all 3 measured out to .060 (actually .061, .062 and .063, go figure). So I don't know if they changed things for the 2014 Supra Max or not.

    Where would be a good place to get some various sized shims for this? Just in case I want to mess around with that again in the future?
    Strother Wrath - 60# 29.5" QAD Pro HD, Hogg Father, Doinker Elite Supreme Hunter, T.R.U. Ball Pro Diamond Xtreme

    PSE Supra Max, NAP SmartRest, Doinker Elite Supreme, Spot-Hogg Hogg Father & Spark Pro, T.R.U. Ball Absolute 360/HT 3 Pro

  5. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderEagle View Post
    So, I had moved my bottom cam earlier in the week, and I tried out some 2712's tonight instead of the Challengers I had been using. Well, started throwing left tears (LH shooter), and since I had put 2 shims on the left side of the bottom cam, so moved one back to the right tonight. I pulled out a digital caliper (nothing too precise, from Harbor Freight) to check which shim was which. Well, all 3 measured out to .060 (actually .061, .062 and .063, go figure). So I don't know if they changed things for the 2014 Supra Max or not.

    Where would be a good place to get some various sized shims for this? Just in case I want to mess around with that again in the future?
    I didn't mean to say they use those three sizes on every bow. Those are the options in their bag of tricks.

    I have a shim kit available to dealers. My guess is you could get one through a dealer....or you could head to the hardware store and get the same thing out of the bins.

  6. #56

  7. #57
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    TX
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    3,272
    Item no longer available... however, there's this: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/appl...-kit-9950.html

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Warrensburg, Missouri, United States
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    2,687
    Tony just made this so I would stop blowing his phone up lol.
    2015 ELITE E35
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  9. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by JPR79 View Post
    Item no longer available... however, there's this: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/appl...-kit-9950.html
    Looks like a very limited amount of shims with a steep price tag. I think your local Ace.... or even a Lowe's or Home Depot would get you a lifetime supply of shims for just a few bucks.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Central KY
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    7,492
    Psalm 18:32-34 It is God who arms me with strength and makes my way perfect. He makes my feet like the feet of a deer; he enables me to stand on the heights. He trains my hands for battle; my arms can bend a bow of bronze.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    Looks like a very limited amount of shims with a steep price tag. I think your local Ace.... or even a Lowe's or Home Depot would get you a lifetime supply of shims for just a few bucks.
    I agree... I already went to my ACE to get stainless steel bolts that won't rust. I already replaced all my module and draw stop screws. I want to replace them all but not sure how I would go about getting different limb bolts.

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    NE, Ohio
    Posts
    380
    I've got a PSE Stinger 3G that I can not get rid of nock left. I had bareshafts and fletched perfect out to 20 last season, no problem after yoke tuning. I dropped the draw length down a half inch after the season and things have gotten bad. At 15 yards, my bare shaft is constant nock left. I twisted the left yoke and nothing changes. Still nock left at the same angle. Reset ATA and go from scratch. Twist right yoke. Same nock left at the same angle. I've messed with different grips, hand pressure, forms, etc. Tonight I tried bumping my rest out just the tiniest amount and nock left got worse. Should I just go back to the original draw and deal with it being a little too long since my bareshafts and fletched were right on the money? I'm pulling my hair out trying to get this fixed. I have no idea why I can twist the yokes until it is all out of whack but the bareshaft is constant nock left. I triedd way over correcting to see if I can go nock right, but it just will not budge.

  13. #63
    Quote Originally Posted by onebigdude View Post
    I've got a PSE Stinger 3G that I can not get rid of nock left. I had bareshafts and fletched perfect out to 20 last season, no problem after yoke tuning. I dropped the draw length down a half inch after the season and things have gotten bad. At 15 yards, my bare shaft is constant nock left. I twisted the left yoke and nothing changes. Still nock left at the same angle. Reset ATA and go from scratch. Twist right yoke. Same nock left at the same angle. I've messed with different grips, hand pressure, forms, etc. Tonight I tried bumping my rest out just the tiniest amount and nock left got worse. Should I just go back to the original draw and deal with it being a little too long since my bareshafts and fletched were right on the money? I'm pulling my hair out trying to get this fixed. I have no idea why I can twist the yokes until it is all out of whack but the bareshaft is constant nock left. I triedd way over correcting to see if I can go nock right, but it just will not budge.
    In my opinion, draw length has to be pretty bad to keep a bow from being tuned. Why did you shorten it? For an established shooter, 1/2" is a major change.

    I think the answer lies in the OP. Grip, face contact, rest location (you should've moved it in, not out), yokes, cam lean, fletch contact....or another arrow issue.

    Normally when a bow won't respond to adjustment, its the shooter causing the problem.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    NE, Ohio
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    380
    Quote Originally Posted by JDES900X View Post
    Hey Darrin, how's that new 'VETTE I hear you're driving? Congrats again for your heroic deed. I would love to talk about that shoot again. I think George was basically saying the same things a while ago. Let's give it a shot.

    MECROWE- I love them all but I am shooting the Insatiable right now. I thought I replied to your last e-mail, but if I didn't I apologize.
    I wanted to try a shorter draw length. I got the bow from factory and just started shooting. It shot good, but I knew I'm not a 29" draw. Did it more to tinker than anything else. Might be that I lost my anchor. After shortening the draw length, I didn't want to lengthen the d loop, so I've been trying to find a new anchor but it must be throwing me off

  15. #65
    How many arrows are you using in this test? Have you tried rotating the nock and shooting again to see if the tear changes?

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    NE, Ohio
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    380
    I've been using one bareshaft. Shoot and pull. Shoot and pull. I cut my d loop off this morning and made it a little longer so I could go back to my original anchor. Nock left got a little better. I had been trying different grips because I shoot with all of my fingers extended on my bow hand. I was trying to curl my pinky and ring into my palm and put my middle and pointer on the front of the grip to get them away from the broadheads during season. Once I went back to straight, relaxed fingers pointed towards the target and my original anchor, the nock left basically disappeared. One twist to the right yoke and it was gone. I guess I shouldn't have tried to fix what wasn't broken. Thanks for the help.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    NE, Ohio
    Posts
    380
    Also, sorry for posting in this thread. Went to the wrong bookmark. Meant to be in the solo cam tuning thread.

  18. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by onebigdude View Post
    Also, sorry for posting in this thread. Went to the wrong bookmark. Meant to be in the solo cam tuning thread.
    No apologies needed. Single cam tuning is much like hybrid.

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Scottsville , KY
    Posts
    804
    Tony, nice write up man. good on you.
    So...
    I have been 'altering' my bomar drawstops. Has anyone tried this?
    I have a bad right shoulder from baseball in my youth. So I have found that I like about 17 lbs ho holding weight.
    When I put my supraMax to spec im getting about 66% let-off. Bow is a 60lb bow that maxxes out at 64.
    So I didnt want to cable twist to give me a little more. So I have been playing with the stops.

    I should preface this by saying I am right at a 28.25 draw.
    What I ended up doing was to put the cam modules in the 'E'= 28inch slot.
    Then I set my draw stops to the 'D'= 28.5 inch slot. Then I cut a piece of 1/8 inch thick adhesive backed hard felt
    used for furniture legs.Placed it on the flat side of the stops and trimmed excess.
    I now have my 28 1/4 draw with 69% let-off and a tiny bit more valley.

    and I finally love this bow. If i could only shoot it to its potential..
    Scott

    ....
    NO EXCUSES

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    IL/IN Line
    Posts
    2,226
    Digging into my first hybrid system this weekend. Thanks.

    Subbed.
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    2013 XRing VII, CBE Tek Hybrid, QAD, GT
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  21. #71
    Quote Originally Posted by trumankayak View Post
    Tony, nice write up man. good on you.
    So...
    I have been 'altering' my bomar drawstops. Has anyone tried this?
    I have a bad right shoulder from baseball in my youth. So I have found that I like about 17 lbs ho holding weight.
    When I put my supraMax to spec im getting about 66% let-off. Bow is a 60lb bow that maxxes out at 64.
    So I didnt want to cable twist to give me a little more. So I have been playing with the stops.

    I should preface this by saying I am right at a 28.25 draw.
    What I ended up doing was to put the cam modules in the 'E'= 28inch slot.
    Then I set my draw stops to the 'D'= 28.5 inch slot. Then I cut a piece of 1/8 inch thick adhesive backed hard felt
    used for furniture legs.Placed it on the flat side of the stops and trimmed excess.
    I now have my 28 1/4 draw with 69% let-off and a tiny bit more valley.

    and I finally love this bow. If i could only shoot it to its potential..
    I know what you mean.

    Look at my other "bag of tricks".... I've built up the bomars too.


  22. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    10,702
    If I have missed it I apologize but I did try to go through all the posts. Now, it seems that I almost always it see it universally accepted that the top draw stop should be hitting slightly before the bottom. Is this true and can you possibly elaborate on this a little if you haven't already (or point me to the appropriate post I missed!). My Full Throttle has the bottom hitting a good bit before the top but it seemed to be shooting bullet holes through paper from at least 6 feet.

  23. #73
    Quote Originally Posted by chaded View Post
    If I have missed it I apologize but I did try to go through all the posts. Now, it seems that I almost always it see it universally accepted that the top draw stop should be hitting slightly before the bottom. Is this true and can you possibly elaborate on this a little if you haven't already (or point me to the appropriate post I missed!). My Full Throttle has the bottom hitting a good bit before the top but it seemed to be shooting bullet holes through paper from at least 6 feet.
    Thanks man. Good question. I realize now I kinda blew by it in the OP.....i gave the direction without any of the "why".

    The preference for the top stop hitting first isn't exactly about how it tears through paper.

    Most hybrids cams will aim better with the top hitting a little ahead (or at least even) and they will be the most forgiving in the vertical aspect. The creep tuning process usually advances that top cam to get the POI's together....setting then this way initially is just getting a head start.

    Just FYI, out to 6' only gives you a tiny glance at the arrow flight. You need multiple distances to establish an understanding of what the arrow is really doing.

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Scottsville , KY
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    804
    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    I know what you mean.

    Look at my other "bag of tricks".... I've built up the bomars too.

    nice
    Scott

    ....
    NO EXCUSES

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    214
    Boom. I'll try this on my Freak.

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