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Thread: PSE (or hybrid cam) tuning tips

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    Thanks man. Good question. I realize now I kinda blew by it in the OP.....i gave the direction without any of the "why".

    The preference for the top stop hitting first isn't exactly about how it tears through paper.

    Most hybrids cams will aim better with the top hitting a little ahead (or at least even) and they will be the most forgiving in the vertical aspect. The creep tuning process usually advances that top cam to get the POI's together....setting then this way initially is just getting a head start.

    Just FYI, out to 6' only gives you a tiny glance at the arrow flight. You need multiple distances to establish an understanding of what the arrow is really doing.


    Thanks for answering. Now I will ask another question in regards to vertical tears. Lets say that the vertical tear is being caused by cam sync issues and not nock point or rest. Is there a universal method on knowing what to do? For example, if the tear is nock high does that mean the top cam needs to be advanced or bottom cam needs advanced, etc? I hope that makes sense.



  2. #77
    Quote Originally Posted by chaded View Post
    Thanks for answering. Now I will ask another question in regards to vertical tears. Lets say that the vertical tear is being caused by cam sync issues and not nock point or rest. Is there a universal method on knowing what to do? For example, if the tear is nock high does that mean the top cam needs to be advanced or bottom cam needs advanced, etc? I hope that makes sense.
    Mmmm. Not necessarily.

    Generally though, it is accepted that advancing the top cam raises the tear....and vice versa.

    But there are exceptions in cams and even more in combos (arrows, rests, limbs, grips, etc)

  3. #78
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    Thanks. I'm getting a press and going to start really digging into all of this and just want to make sure I'm not missing any basics or anything.

  4. #79
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  5. #80
    Awesome thread!
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  6. #81
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    Hey Tony, would you happen to have any pictures on hand to show what your bottom cams have looked like before and after swapping shims?
    2012 Supra ME
    2012 Dream Season EVO

  7. #82
    Quote Originally Posted by ride394 View Post
    Hey Tony, would you happen to have any pictures on hand to show what your bottom cams have looked like before and after swapping shims?
    No, I sure don't. Sorry.

  8. #83
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    Looks like I'll be shimming and checking limb orientation. Son of a!

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1395876009.718200.jpg
    2012 Supra ME
    2012 Dream Season EVO

  9. #84
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  10. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by ride394 View Post
    Looks like I'll be shimming and checking limb orientation. Son of a!

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1395876009.718200.jpg
    That's pretty extreme. Tuning wise I'd assume you're struggling with right tears or left bare shafts....

    I can't tell but it appears that the cam may have more shims against the right side than the left (like it was assembled backwards)....which would explain the lean.

  11. #86
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    Tony, I was the one that texted you last night with the bad left bareshafts. Looks like there is one shim on the left and either multiple shims or one really thick one on the right.
    2012 Supra ME
    2012 Dream Season EVO

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    That's pretty extreme. Tuning wise I'd assume you're struggling with right tears or left bare shafts....

    I can't tell but it appears that the cam may have more shims against the right side than the left (like it was assembled backwards)....which would explain the lean.
    Would you recommend just swapping the shims side for side to start with? Not really sure what a good starting point would be.
    2012 Supra ME
    2012 Dream Season EVO

  13. #88
    Quote Originally Posted by ride394 View Post
    Would you recommend just swapping the shims side for side to start with? Not really sure what a good starting point would be.
    Probably a good starting point as it sounds. You will most likely end up with .040 (two thins) to .060 (one medium) between the cam and right limb and the balance on the left.

  14. #89
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    Ok cool. I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    2012 Supra ME
    2012 Dream Season EVO

  15. #90
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    I read about moving the shims in this thread. Woul one only shim the top cam? And, If my bare shafts are hitting nock left, Which way would i stack them?
    Will work to hunt!

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    Probably a good starting point as it sounds. You will most likely end up with .040 (two thins) to .060 (one medium) between the cam and right limb and the balance on the left.
    So you're shifting the cam/cams more towards the cable guard to straighten out cam lean? Won't that reduce your vane clearance? Would an offset cable guard do the same thing without the vanes getting too close the the riser? BTW- I'm just trying to learn here, not dog you.

  17. #92
    Quote Originally Posted by gritsnfishin1 View Post
    I read about moving the shims in this thread. Woul one only shim the top cam? And, If my bare shafts are hitting nock left, Which way would i stack them?
    I've never yet found a need to move the top cam. It's stability is provided by the yokes. Shim the bottom cam, yoke tune the top generically speaking.

    Quote Originally Posted by a/c guy View Post
    Won't that reduce your vane clearance? Would an offset cable guard do the same thing without the vanes getting too close the the riser? BTW- I'm just trying to learn here, not dog you.
    No. We're talking about moving the cam to the right by thousandths.... which would only be done in a situation where the rest had been trying to tune "outside" already.

  18. #93
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    marked for later. Great info
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  19. #94
    tag

  20. #95
    I've noticed what to me looks like bad cable wear coming from where the cable goes into the red module on my bottom cam. To fix this could i possibly just rearrange the Shims thats in there or would i have to buy some? This is on a 2014 dominator max by the way.
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  21. #96
    Quote Originally Posted by sprtsmen247 View Post
    I've noticed what to me looks like bad cable wear coming from where the cable goes into the red module on my bottom cam. To fix this could i possibly just rearrange the Shims thats in there or would i have to buy some? This is on a 2014 dominator max by the way.
    I wouldn't just start shimming based on cable wear alone.

    Are we talking factory strings? If not, from a reputable builder....and what material?

    If you have cam lean that is creating a tuning problem, then I'd look at shimming. The fact that you've been shooting it "as-is" long enough to have serving wear, makes we want to ask questions before advising that you just start shimming.

    To answer your question though, cam lean can cause serving wear by making the cable drag on one side of the track... or against other things in severe situations.

  22. #97
    Sorry yeah my post was kinda vague...Little more info it is factory strings.. Axle to axle is in the money so is brace height shooting a 350 black eagle challenger 120gr point at 29.5in at 56 lbs at 30.5 draw and it tuned pretty easy right down the middle of shelf couple twist in the yokes for a bullet hole.. It looks like the cable rides the edge a little on the module going into full draw causing the wear.. If not shimming is there something else to try? I'll try and get a pic up I the wear..
    Prime Centroid
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    TT smack down pro

  23. #98
    Quote Originally Posted by sprtsmen247 View Post
    Sorry yeah my post was kinda vague...Little more info it is factory strings.. Axle to axle is in the money so is brace height shooting a 350 black eagle challenger 120gr point at 29.5in at 56 lbs at 30.5 draw and it tuned pretty easy right down the middle of shelf couple twist in the yokes for a bullet hole.. It looks like the cable rides the edge a little on the module going into full draw causing the wear.. If not shimming is there something else to try? I'll try and get a pic up I the wear..
    If it tuned easily, chances are it isn't a problem that requires shimming. Lay an arrow on the side of the cam and see. You can also quickly check at full draw by looking down at where the cable contacts the stop.... Against the cam....centered....or on the outside edge.

    It could be a rough spot on the module but I'm guessing it is just standard wear and time for a new set of rigging.

  24. #99
    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    If it tuned easily, chances are it isn't a problem that requires shimming. Lay an arrow on the side of the cam and see. You can also quickly check at full draw by looking down at where the cable contacts the stop.... Against the cam....centered....or on the outside edge.

    It could be a rough spot on the module but I'm guessing it is just standard wear and time for a new set of rigging.
    I will check with a arrow.. Draw stop looks like cable hits on the outside of stop..these are brand new strings from factory only had the bow maybe 2 months.. Here's a picture of the cable going into the module and a pick of the module that has some black stuff on it
    Prime Centroid
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  25. #100
    The wear on that serving "normal". If you want something to hold up better, I recommend halo serving.

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