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Thread: PSE (or hybrid cam) tuning tips

  1. #101
    Does that cable angle look normal going into the module?

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  2. #102
    Quote Originally Posted by sprtsmen247 View Post
    Does that cable angle look normal going into the module?
    Not bad, I suspect that your have your flex gaurd cranked down pretty tight.... am I right? I try to run it for minimal clearance (this depends on your setup... it may be the string stop, it may be the arrow...or it may be your tolerance for the cables getting in your sight picture).

  3. #103
    It's still set at factory setting so I'm sure it is cranked down.. If I back the bolt off and retune the bow will I need some form of washer behind the flex guard to tighten it down or will it stay put if I back it off? And yes it has plenty of clearance away from the fletchings and shaft
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  4. #104
    Quote Originally Posted by sprtsmen247 View Post
    It's still set at factory setting so I'm sure it is cranked down.. If I back the bolt off and retune the bow will I need some form of washer behind the flex guard to tighten it down or will it stay put if I back it off? And yes it has plenty of clearance away from the fletchings and shaft
    You have options.

    Some guys use a hard washer (nylon type?) and place it behind the flex gaurd and then crank it back down. They vary thickness of these washers to achieve their flex guard setting.

    I use a small piece of "rubber" behind mine so I have some liberty to make continuing fine adjustments but it has some counter pressure on it regardless.

    Others, do nothing.

    In any case, I highly recommend that you remove that bolt, add some loctite, reinstall it. Once you have it set where you want, mark the head of that bolt with a silver sharpie, white-out, paint pen....whatever.

  5. #105
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    Instructions are Great

  6. #106
    Thanks I'll give it a try
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  7. #107
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    Lots of good info. Nicely done.
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  8. #108
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    I use a nylon washer behind the ones I have adjusted per suggestion from a PSE Factory Pro staffer. I do like the rubber idea though
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  9. #109
    Quote Originally Posted by RatherBArchery View Post
    I use a nylon washer behind the ones I have adjusted per suggestion from a PSE Factory Pro staffer. I do like the rubber idea though
    Yes, axle washers work good too.

  10. #110
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    Tony,

    In general, how much do you end up advancing the top cam? Actually, I guess I don't care about how much you usually do it, but more, how far is too far, and it is really something else you should be looking at?
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  11. #111
    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderEagle View Post
    Tony,

    In general, how much do you end up advancing the top cam? Actually, I guess I don't care about how much you usually do it, but more, how far is too far, and it is really something else you should be looking at?
    well..... that's a deep subject

    It depends on the cam...and the bow...and the tuning needs.

    On the ME cam (true hybrid, softer wall, pretty good nock travel at most settings/bows), I never found it necessary to advance "much" (more than 1/16-1/8"?) with most being nearly even when I liked them best. It seemed to me that past a certain point holding weight was being affected more than anything else (nock travel).

    Take the Drive cam (more like a single cam, harder wall, DL specific nock travel) and the top cam position can be tweaked almost infinitely. I find creep tuning to be extremely valuable here as nock travel is absolutely affected by top cam position where holding weight is not.

    Then take other cams like the Core or Source and I've seen little need to tweak timing much past even....but that could just be that nock travel was good at my specs...and that those cams come on bows I don't "over think" much (short hunting bows).

  12. #112
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    Don't know what "my" problem was tonight. I could hit the spot at 20 Yrds with a bare shaft no problem but when I throw a fletched arrow on it hits right. I tried movin sight first then rest and even yokes. Wired thing no matter what adjustment I made my bare shafts fly ok. A little tail kick some tails went right others left but the bare shafts always found thier mark and fletched went right no matter what I did even with torquing right and left.
    I think I'm just gonna hang her up till I get my tony219er threads and new vaps. Idk I'll just start over I guess.
    first to last: bear hunter advantage, 2011 Mathews Z7 60 lb macked out, 2010 destroyer 350 50lb nicely equipped, 2013 D350 60lb super pimped out, 2012 hoyt vector 32 70lb a work in progress!! these are my bows ive had and I love em all!!! And now a PSE DNA 65lber 28.5 draw tommy hogg QAD hdx bstinger front and rear spittin vap .400s' @ 318fps

  13. #113
    I am trying to set the timing on my brand new DNA SP. The bottom cam is hitting before my top cam. What's the best way to fix that?

    Would you adjust the bus cable or control cable?

    Thanks for your help in advance.

  14. #114
    I would normally adjust control cable. I can never remember which way does what, but I think I would add a twist and check, if it was me.
    I don't think I've ever gone the right was the first time though.

  15. #115
    Untwist to advance.
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  16. #116
    Quote Originally Posted by zeddro View Post
    I am trying to set the timing on my brand new DNA SP. The bottom cam is hitting before my top cam. What's the best way to fix that?

    Would you adjust the bus cable or control cable?
    It depends on the overall picture. Your synch can be corrected by adding twists to the buss cable....or by removing twists from the control cable.

    If I am doing "maintenance" on a bow that has been timed/synched before and the string set is broken in, I would default to adding twists to the buss cable to correct this. Why?.... because you'll rarely ever see control cables stretch after the initial break in. You'll regularly see buss cables continue to creep over time on a hybrid cam because they carry an enormous % of the total load.....so, it's a safe bet that this is where the correction is needed.

    Since this is a new bow, I'm going to look at my overall specs (ATA, peak weight, DL) with an understanding that I can do either...but they don't have exactly the same effects elsewhere. Putting a twist in the buss cable....and taking a twist out of the control cable both lengthen draw length slightly but, twisting the buss cable has a more pronounced effect towards increasing DW (and shortening ATA) than untwisting the control cable. I always have an ATA spec (not necessarily the factory's) that I'm managing my adjustments around.

  17. #117

    PSE (or hybrid cam) tuning tips

    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    It depends on the overall picture. Your synch can be corrected by adding twists to the buss cable....or by removing twists from the control cable.

    If I am doing "maintenance" on a bow that has been timed/synched before and the string set is broken in, I would default to adding twists to the buss cable to correct this. Why?.... because you'll rarely ever see control cables stretch after the initial break in. You'll regularly see buss cables continue to creep over time on a hybrid cam because they carry an enormous % of the total load.....so, it's a safe bet that this is where the correction is needed.

    Since this is a new bow, I'm going to look at my overall specs (ATA, peak weight, DL) with an understanding that I can do either...but they don't have exactly the same effects elsewhere. Putting a twist in the buss cable....and taking a twist out of the control cable both lengthen draw length slightly but, twisting the buss cable has a more pronounced effect towards increasing DW (and shortening ATA) than untwisting the control cable. I always have an ATA spec (not necessarily the factory's) that I'm managing my adjustments around.
    Thanks. Also I made the mistake of installing my d-loop, center shot, and peep before checking the timing. I know, I know.

    Having said that. Should I do your second recommendation and add and take away equal amounts not to screw up my center shot and peep or am I just gonna have to redo that stuff?

    Thanks

  18. #118
    In for later viewage...

  19. #119
    Quote Originally Posted by zeddro View Post
    Thanks. Also I made the mistake of installing my d-loop, center shot, and peep before checking the timing. I know, I know.

    Having said that. Should I do your second recommendation and add and take away equal amounts not to screw up my center shot and peep or am I just gonna have to redo that stuff?

    Thanks
    Nah. The adjustment you are making to time that out is very small. I wouldn't worry one bit.

    Center shot nor peep location will be affected by timing. Nock height changes ever so slightly....but the peep moves with it equally.

  20. #120
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    Tag for bare shaft tune

  21. #121
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    Great thread.....almost exactly how I do mine

  22. #122
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    This is going to be a REALLY dumb question...are you twisting/untwisting the left and right yoke cables (buss) or, are you twisting/untwisting on the bottom of the buss? Does it make a difference?
    A-A is off by over an inch (long), and my bottom draw stop is hitting almost an inch faster that the top.
    Draw length is set to 27.5. Ensured that both mods are in the correct hole.

    I know I got a lot going on here but any advice would be appreciated.

  23. #123
    Quote Originally Posted by Flivver90 View Post
    This is going to be a REALLY dumb question...are you twisting/untwisting the left and right yoke cables (buss) or, are you twisting/untwisting on the bottom of the buss? Does it make a difference?
    A-A is off by over an inch (long), and my bottom draw stop is hitting almost an inch faster that the top.
    Draw length is set to 27.5. Ensured that both mods are in the correct hole.

    I know I got a lot going on here but any advice would be appreciated.
    Yeah, you have a major project.... Over 1"???

    That really sounds like the bow has the wrong cable(s) are on the bow.

    Regardless, coarse adjustments have to be done with the end of the buss cable. You won't get enough twists in a yoke (or both) to make the big adjustment you are working for.

  24. #124
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    Torque tuning arrow rest . When you say torque bow how far do you torque bow I have problem getting this to work

    great info

  25. #125
    Quote Originally Posted by redman View Post
    Torque tuning arrow rest . When you say torque bow how far do you torque bow I have problem getting this to work

    great info
    Enough to move the end of the stab about 1" from "normal".

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