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Thread: PSE (or hybrid cam) tuning tips

  1. #176
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Bay area
    Posts
    196
    We'll guess I need to spend a day at the press and figure it out. I shot a 531field round last week and felt like I shot a lot better than I scored. Thanks for the update, and I glad you got her shooting straight!



  2. #177
    Quote Originally Posted by Jfk742 View Post
    We'll guess I need to spend a day at the press and figure it out. I shot a 531field round last week and felt like I shot a lot better than I scored. Thanks for the update, and I glad you got her shooting straight!
    I definitely don't have any excuses. The shots that went outside the X shouldn't have been shot, shoulda let down and knew it. I'm working on that, and my focus/mental game.
    I will devote myself, sincerely and without holding back, to demolishing my opinions. - Descartes

  3. #178
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Bay area
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    196
    i know what you mean, I have been trying to make the let down a more common theme when my shot feels like its going south.

    My center shot is currently 31/32 from cable side berger hole, and I already have the bottom cam .040 from cable side limb and still can't get anything but a right tear. I cant stand to look at it and my next shoot is 3 weeks away, so what the hell, worst thing happens is I get to play with my bow for a day.

  4. #179
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    2,441
    Thanks T! Awesome stuff here!
    DNA---------27.5/65 , 2013 BG 3 PIN ASCENT, VAPORTRAIL LIMBDRIVER PRO-V , PSE-X-QUIVER,G5 META PEEP 3/16

  5. #180
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Arizona, United States
    Posts
    17
    Great information. Thank you for helping me tune my PSE HF cam!
    PSE Omen Pro
    PSE Xforce HF6

  6. #181
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Nolensville, TN 37135
    Posts
    175
    Tag
    Bowtech RPM 360, Flo Orange/Black strings Crackerized,Bowtech Qad HDX, G5 peep,Spot Hogg Father single pin .10, Carbofast stabilizers, Carbon Express RED 350. Swacker 100gr
    Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo,Hoyt Qad HDX,Hogwired,Carbofast stabilizer, G5 peep,CBE tek hybrid dovetail single pin .19,Swacker 100 gr

  7. #182
    I have a 2011 dominator with the th cams... do those get creep tuned as well?
    2013 prime one......axel achieve with 41mm 4x scope.. 34" doinker out the front with a 12" out the back..
    STAFF SHOOTER FOR GOLD TIP ARROWS!!

  8. #183
    Any tricks on the th cam?
    2013 prime one......axel achieve with 41mm 4x scope.. 34" doinker out the front with a 12" out the back..
    STAFF SHOOTER FOR GOLD TIP ARROWS!!

  9. #184
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    tarrytown new york
    Posts
    5,021
    Do you Creep tune drive cams the same as ME cams

  10. #185
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    223
    All bows you can creep tune
    2013 PSE Revenge Skullworks

  11. #186
    With the ASA season over, I immediately started work on my hunting bow. Now, all I change are the accessories and arrows (for the most part) so it is a fairly simple job. I've spent a few minutes in several sessions between being productive at that thing which pays the bills over the last two days.

    As I was doing it, I realized I used just about everything I've written above.

    I changed accessories out which included adding my new Tek-Hybrid dovetail and some shorter bee-stingers. I changed the blade on my Hamskea and grabbed up my velocity 300's that I've used the last two years. I started tuning and they were acting a little weak (tail rights, bare shafts left).... I worked the yoke a bit because the bottom is really shimmed to my personal preference. It didn't quite get it all and I was already minimal clearance on the string stop..... So, I left it for a bit and played with torque tuning. It indicated the rest needed to come back and the sight was already fully extended. So, I slid it back.... Got better but still needed to go back. So, I had a Hamskea OD bracket..... Hmm. I added it and continued until I got it perfect. Now, back to bareshafts.... I didn't really want to run outside so I started contemplating stiffening the shafts a bit. First I removed point weight and they definitely showed improvement. So, I decided to cut the shafts down since I now I had plenty of room. So, I did and played more with bare shafts and finished my torque tuning. I did a little quick creep tune in the process and have ideas whirling in my head about blending bare shaft and creep tuning (more later on that). So, anyway I finished up and sighted a quick 30 and 60 then found a matching tape. As it was getting dark, I dialed it to 90 just to see.

    First two arrows..... (Only two I didn't beat fletchings off of today)



    I think that's a good sign. I'll start playing with BH in the coming days. I tune with fixed blades but hunt with mechanicals. I'm expecting little or no adjustments. Most of my time now will probably be treating it like a target bow....tuning stabilizers, tweaking peep height, etc.

  12. #187
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    71
    Does your arrow sit level at brace? I've read your tuning guide and the comments from other fellow tuners, and it seems as though it doesn't really matter to much. Right now, to get a "just about" clean bullet with bare shaft, my nock point is about 1/8 high off level. My bow shoots well, but shouldn't I be able to (or a more experienced tuner) correct it?

  13. #188
    Quote Originally Posted by Flivver90 View Post
    Does your arrow sit level at brace? I've read your tuning guide and the comments from other fellow tuners, and it seems as though it doesn't really matter to much. Right now, to get a "just about" clean bullet with bare shaft, my nock point is about 1/8 high off level. My bow shoots well, but shouldn't I be able to (or a more experienced tuner) correct it?
    Yes and no. I'm quite accustomed to running a little tail high at brace....in some cases its dictated by the setup and in some cases its me being a little old school. Generally, I run where it tunes/shoots/aims the best and am likely to leave bare shafts a little low so that means I'm likely to run a little nock high.

    Sometimes nock travel in the bow/cam design dictates that we vary from level. I am mentally OK with going quite a bit tail high but have almost zero tolerance for going tail low. Truth be told though, if it shoots/tunes/clears, there's really nothing wrong with a little tail low.

    All that said, keep in mind that many cam systems allow us to tweak the nock travel via timing. So in theory, we should be able to make a bow tune level....or close to it. On a hybrid cam especially, creep tuning can be your best friend here. I would say "tuning" a drive cam without creep tuning (or managing cable lengths in some equivalent manner) isn't really tuning at all. Timing absolutely affects nock travel.

  14. #189
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    tarrytown new york
    Posts
    5,021
    Do you creep tune the drive cam the same me cams I was told it is different because it is more like a one cam is this true . Thanks for info

  15. #190
    Quote Originally Posted by redman View Post
    Do you creep tune the drive cam the same me cams I was told it is different because it is more like a one cam is this true . Thanks for info
    Exactly the same.

  16. #191
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    1,854
    For reference
    Tuningfreak
    1/2 Upper Lodge Archery Team

  17. #192
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    White Oak NC
    Posts
    2,327
    tagged
    The Rebellious Darton Fan! It was the CPS CAMS Silly! I want CPS CAMS!!!

  18. #193
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    223
    You said more on bareshaft and creep later? Find something interesting?
    2013 PSE Revenge Skullworks

  19. #194
    Quote Originally Posted by Larkinhjr View Post
    You said more on bareshaft and creep later? Find something interesting?
    Not sure yet. I haven't had a chance (or maybe the desire) to fully test it out but as I was working on my own bow, I stumbled into something while tuning. Basically, I was fatigued and had been shooting a lot while fighting the wind. I was working on the bow and was close but was getting inconsistent bare shaft results vertically. This isn't common for me and after a while, I started trying to make those odd results repeatable so i could understand where they were coming from. I do this pretty often when I'm trouble shooting so I can learn from it and make my trouble shooting easier in the future. In this case, I started finding out my high bare shafts were soft on the wall..... my good bare shafts were stronger shots firm in the wall. So, I advanced the top cam a bit just like you would in creep tuning and moved forward. The high bare shaft misses were gone after a few cycles.

    So, the theory is that bareshafts being bare shafts were doing what they do.... being critical. It was showing me my creep tuning at a much more critical level than performing it as I normally do with all fletched shafts. It makes sense becuase after all, creep tuning is about fine tuning nock travel. Bare shafts are about illustrating things in an exagerated way.

    I haven't messed with this any more because the bow has been running good and that hunting bow is all I've messed with since early August. After I kill a few deer, I'll start messing with a target bow again and this is on my list to test out some more.

  20. #195
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    223
    Nice.
    2013 PSE Revenge Skullworks

  21. #196
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    223
    I agree you get nock travel good with bareshaft then d very thing else should be perfect only makes sense
    2013 PSE Revenge Skullworks

  22. #197
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    2,441
    Good stuff
    DNA---------27.5/65 , 2013 BG 3 PIN ASCENT, VAPORTRAIL LIMBDRIVER PRO-V , PSE-X-QUIVER,G5 META PEEP 3/16

  23. #198
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    1,782
    Rookie tuner here looking for a few tips.

    So I have a DNA SP that I've been working on. Bow is 70 lbs and hits a max of 70.5 with the limbs maxed out. My draw length is set at 28" real draw length comes in at 28.25". Brace appears to be right on 6" from the deepest part of the grip to the center of the string. ATA is 31 3/8 to the centers of each axle. The bow is shooting good bullet holes with the top cam hitting about 1/16" of an inch prior to bottom. Basically bottom hits when I pull solidly into the wall. Top timing mark is about on the back side of the cable and bottom timing mark is well behind the cable. Easton Injextion are slightly nock high and right thought the berger hole.

    All in all the bow is shooting and pointing well but I seem to have lost a bit of the valley and it seems slightly more jumpy then it was before I started messing with it. It could be a tad louder too. Not real sure on the noise as I've been shooting in my basement at real shot distances.

    What can I do to get a little more valley back without throwing anything else out of wack?
    If you don't shoot the big ones they die of old age.
    If you don't shoot the small ones they live to become big ones.

  24. #199
    To increase valley, even out the timing. Take a half twist out of one or both yokes. Or put a half twist in the control. Either will have a tiny effect on tuning and you may wish to bump your rest slightly afterwards.

    Are you shooting the limb stop? If so, make sure it is properly adjusted.

  25. #200
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    1,782
    Quote Originally Posted by tmorelli View Post
    To increase valley, even out the timing. Take a half twist out of one or both yokes. Or put a half twist in the control. Either will have a tiny effect on tuning and you may wish to bump your rest slightly afterwards.

    Are you shooting the limb stop? If so, make sure it is properly adjusted.
    No not shooting the limb stop. Wondering if I slow down my top cam will I need to bump my rest up or down?

    I'd actually like to bump it up because I'm a little knock high. I cant really go any farther down or PSE HDX will hit shelf too hard. Plus I like my arrow to me as close to level as possible.
    If you don't shoot the big ones they die of old age.
    If you don't shoot the small ones they live to become big ones.

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