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Thread: HELP Springy or Timberdoodle

  1. #1
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    HELP Springy or Timberdoodle

    I have been shooting a AAE Free Flyte and they just does not seem to holdup, seem like I am replace the rest about every 2 to 3 months. I switched to a Timberdoodle and it seems to be doing just fine. But I have a been told that a Springy is the way to go. What do you think??

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  2. #2
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    I shoot the Timberdoodle ll and it is the only rest I will ever shoot.
    Try a springy to see if it work for you though.
    Don.
    I shoot for...Gator Vanes....www.gatorvanes.com
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  3. #3
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    Nothing wrong with the timberdoodle at all, doesn't matter if it's V1 or 2...don't recall the V1 name (it wasn't timberdoodle)

    I've used both and will say that it doesn't matter which one you use, both are fantastic rests...between the two, it's personal preference.

    I will say that the springy is problaby the easiest rest to tune and the only failure you can have is a broken spring- so carry a couple extra springs.
    USA Level 2 Instructor
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by deerhunter7273 View Post
    I have been shooting a AAE Free Flyte and they just does not seem to holdup, seem like I am replace the rest about every 2 to 3 months. I switched to a Timberdoodle and it seems to be doing just fine. But I have a been told that a Springy is the way to go. What do you think??
    I have been shooting one for years, with thousands of shots and only thing I have ever had break is the wire once. I shoot everyday weird that you have broken some. I will second the springy, easy to setup and tune, use it on my recurve.
    I am not Trad, I just like shooting recurves and longbows.

  5. #5
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    hunter- do you string walk? If so, that's about the only thing I can think of that you would have issues with on a wire rest.

    if you don't string walk and you're breaking that rest that often- I'm thinking it's something with setup.

    do you have the magnet set to close the wire (against the riser) or open the wire (away from the riser)?- If it's going away from the riser- maybe the arrow shaft is striking the arm (may need to tweak point weight, brace height etc)--moot if you stringwalk
    USA Level 2 Instructor
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    2010 Hoyt Vantage Pro, XT 2000, Sprls, Sure Loc W BE 6X, ACC's 408g @ 259

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by zestycj7 View Post
    I shoot the Timberdoodle ll and it is the only rest I will ever shoot.
    Try a springy to see if it work for you though.
    Don.
    Here, here

  7. #7
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    Making the switch from release to fingers on the Supra Max left me with four options: flipper, Infinity, Pronghorn or Whisker. Using either my glove or tab, my ugly form couldn't prevent the arrow from lifting off the rest when pulling into position--ouch. The Whisker seemed safer until I can improve my pull. I really wanted to give the Infinity a chance to work, but that's another story. I wondering, after observing a few finger shooters at the last couple of tournaments, if it's the type of tab or glove or form that is causing this problem? If you like explain your choice of tab/glove and why. The rest idea has been hashed over, and I'm sure I'll be shooting Timberdoodle soon. Smile.
    2012 Bear Arnachy, TR sight, Spot Hogg Infinity rest, 10" B-stinger, Stan SX-2
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  8. #8
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    Regarding the arrow coming off the rest...

    This is something that new shooters struggle with but easily overcome with a little guidance and practice. One thing that will help is to pull with more weight on the bottom 2 fingers than the top finger...when you get to anchor, transfer some of the weight to the top finger. Also, using 2 nocks (one above, one below) will help keep the arrow on the rest....drawing slower will also help.

    One thing I did that helped was to do drawing exercises during my shooting sessions- and I'm not talking about becoming artistic. What I'd do is to draw 3-5 times per shot fired. There would be several ends where I didn't fire an arrow- just slowly drew about 5 times- being certain to fully reach anchor, then slowly letting down. It makes for a tiring session but helps quickly steady the draw cycle.


    You mention that the tab or glove could be the issue- definitely possible the tab could be pushing the arrow at release. Sometimes tabs have a gap between the index and middle finger that is too narrow and therefor must be trimed OR it could be length....maybe the back of the tab is pushing the arrow- maybe the part that is protecting the finger is a little wide- arrow hitting tab as the string rolls off the fingers. The only real solution is to simply observe and play with tab- may have to buy a couple extra tab pieces for testing.


    The prong style is a great rest but you have to be good in order to use one--timberdoodle is a more forgiving rest.
    USA Level 2 Instructor
    2012 PSE Supra ME, 47#, 30",ACC- 390's Davis sight, FITA ring,
    Win-Win Inno Carbon Riser/Tropics 36#(38 tof), Redline arrows 690- DS Advantage-282grn@ 195fps
    2010 Hoyt Vantage Pro, XT 2000, Sprls, Sure Loc W BE 6X, ACC's 408g @ 259

  9. #9
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    only tabs i PERSONALLY like , doesn't mean some one else will , are the cheap tabs with a felt spacer block . if yours doesn't have the spacer get one and try it . i've been curious about the timber doodle 2 rest but have tried other bodoodles and gone back to the flipper you say you keep breaking , i have yet to break one . awaiting your thoughts on the timber doodle let us know .

  10. #10
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    For the tab or glove issue, I have found that I get release with a tab than a glove, I use a Neet pinch free hair tab and I cut out the pinch free part of it, then I also cut the tab down to just a two finger, I pull with one over and two under but I drop my first finger off the string when I get back to full draw. I still have not tried the Springy rest, I have changed the fins on my Timber Doodle, it came with a v grooved fin on the bottom and I changed it to a flat one like the one that is on the side that came with it, I have been really happy with the rest so far. For right now I am not going to try the springy, the setup I have right now is working really good and I do not want to mess with it. We will see after this weekend at Bedford.
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  11. #11
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    Thanks everyone. Good info to work with. I like the idea of dropping a finger and wondered about cutting the tab. Cutting the pinch material is possible, but the lifting occurred with either tab or glove. I'll be working to get it right.
    2012 Bear Arnachy, TR sight, Spot Hogg Infinity rest, 10" B-stinger, Stan SX-2
    2014 PSE Supra Max, Timberdoodle II rest, 11&1/2"Shrewd, no sights: BH
    2014 PSE Fever (wife) TR sight, TR Whisker rest, 8" B-stinger
    2014 PSE Phenom SD (wife) Spot Hogg Hunter sight, Infinity rest, 10" B-stinger
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  12. #12
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    if you end up struggling with the arrow falling, try the 3 under, see how that works for you...just remember to push up into the nock point- if you only have one....even on split finger, you'll want to push up into the nocking point if you're only using one NP. It's not a hard push, just a little lift to keep pressure on the nock so you don't pull it off the rest.


    Also, if you look at the KSL style "hook"- (how you attach your fingers to the string) you'll find that the fingers aren't 90 to the string but maybe 60*....this decreased angle helps separate the index and middle fingers allowing the index finger to NOT push the arrow.
    http://mackiesarchery.com/wp-content...ooking-KSL.pdf
    USA Level 2 Instructor
    2012 PSE Supra ME, 47#, 30",ACC- 390's Davis sight, FITA ring,
    Win-Win Inno Carbon Riser/Tropics 36#(38 tof), Redline arrows 690- DS Advantage-282grn@ 195fps
    2010 Hoyt Vantage Pro, XT 2000, Sprls, Sure Loc W BE 6X, ACC's 408g @ 259

  13. #13
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    tag
    2012 Bear Arnachy, TR sight, Spot Hogg Infinity rest, 10" B-stinger, Stan SX-2
    2014 PSE Supra Max, Timberdoodle II rest, 11&1/2"Shrewd, no sights: BH
    2014 PSE Fever (wife) TR sight, TR Whisker rest, 8" B-stinger
    2014 PSE Phenom SD (wife) Spot Hogg Hunter sight, Infinity rest, 10" B-stinger
    2014 S/F Forged 25" riser with Axiom 38# limbs and GT 600 Traditional arrows

  14. #14
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    I have not used the timber doodle. Currently using a spig magnetic flipper and a cartel berger button. How does the timberdoolde compare to that set up for consistency and ease of tune?

    It looks like it would be a better hunting solution for sure.

  15. #15
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    I'm a fan of the adjustable cushion plunger and a magnetic flipper style rest my self.

    I can safely say that I totally hate the springy rest. It doesn't happen often but once in a great while I'll get an arrow caught or some other material caught on the springy and it yanks the spring out and bends it. I had a loose fletch on one of my arrows right in the middle of a competition and didn't noticed it until it caught on the spring and yanked it out away from the bow making it completely dysfunctional. That was the last time I ever installed a springy rest.

    So of the 2 choices I guess I would go with the timber doodle. But that wouldn't be my first choice.
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  16. #16
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    I agree with b0w bender on using a magnetic flipper with a higher end adjustable plunger. I used a Tone button with an Edgars magnetic wire when I was shooting nearly everyday. When you want to get a perfect walkback test , making very very small changes to the plunger tension will bring your long shots in better.

    Also , I have never seen one break. And the cost savings can be put into arrows.

  17. #17
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    I just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing anything. Plungers are so easy to tune I would probably rip my hair out with something else.

  18. #18
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    I use the Bodoodle Pro 500 on my Hoyt Tribute. It has lots of adjustability and may look complicated, but it's really not.
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  19. #19
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    +1 what Hayvana said, I use one of those and in reality is a timberdoodle done a little different , easy to set up and I personally like em more than the timberdoodle or timberdoodle II. If you get a chance have look at one, I am sure you wont be disappointed
    Hoyt Freestyle ,The System by Davis , Easton Carbon One's , just a finger tab (Would prefer an EW. Bateman finger Tab but do you know how hard it is to get one in Australia !!)

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  20. #20
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    I have been shooting the AAE Freeflyte for several years now and have had great luck with it. I am shooting the blade on them and have not used a plunger in years but would like to play around with it again. Like many things you get what you pay for so what plungers are you guys shooting?

  21. #21
    Ive shot springy, aae freeflyte with and without a plunger currently have the timberdoodle 2 on my vanguard ive also shot a pro v and trophy ridge drop zone and a muzzy fish hook with fingers for a drop away the tr dropzone was best but i always go back to the timberdoodle
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  22. #22
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    Which plungers are we using?

    It depends on the bow.
    On my Oneida it's an old Golden Key (I think)
    On my Viking Archery bow it's another old cheap plunger
    On my Oly risers, AAE Cavalier, don't know the other 2- probably the same thing just older models.
    USA Level 2 Instructor
    2012 PSE Supra ME, 47#, 30",ACC- 390's Davis sight, FITA ring,
    Win-Win Inno Carbon Riser/Tropics 36#(38 tof), Redline arrows 690- DS Advantage-282grn@ 195fps
    2010 Hoyt Vantage Pro, XT 2000, Sprls, Sure Loc W BE 6X, ACC's 408g @ 259

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