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Thread: Soon-to-be DST 38 owner

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    2,381
    Quote Originally Posted by Goodking View Post
    Hey all, quick question for ya... I have been shooting without the limb stops and the draw length is pretty much perfect with the current module. If I add the limb stops it shortens the draw by a huge amount. Is there a way you can get around this without buying another module?

    Lastly, what does you stabiliser set ups look like in terms of weight distribution? Hanging the bow up I have it perfectly balanced, but I am finding it relatively tricky to prevent torque when aiming which is something I usually find easy.
    Can't say on the limb stops...I haven't played with them, but I'd imagine you'd need to jump up a module size if you're already at the max.

    I'm running 35" with 5oz up front and 15" 13oz on the side. I've got the side rod mounted in the lowest hole on the riser using Ktech's MK9 rider mount. For me, it's angled ever so slightly out to the right (I'm a lefty) and angled down close to 45 degrees (pointing so far down I can barely use a pro pod). I don't bother to check how it balances on a string since that doesn't really matter to me.

  2. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Goodking View Post
    ...

    Lastly, what does you stabiliser set ups look like in terms of weight distribution? Hanging the bow up I have it perfectly balanced, but I am finding it relatively tricky to prevent torque when aiming which is something I usually find easy.
    A perfect balance of a "hanging-bow" is a self-produced additional difficulty. Why? You have to hold the bow in the sweet-spot and the bow tries to leave the sweet spot in every direction. You cannot stay in the sweet-spot. An example: Balance on one foot with the other leg nearby. You are floating around your foot in every direction, left, right, forward, backward and between. You are not able to stand really still. Now, put your free leg sideways, and the floating goes near Zero. It is easier for us to work again pressure coming from one direction.

    Do the same at your bow with the offset of the side rod. Try out what is your optimum weight and offset. I use a 28" front rod with 4 ounces and 10" side rod with 12 ounces. When I hang up my bow, the bubble goes a bit to the right.

    Another tip against torque: don't touch the front of the riser with your fingertips at full draw. The DST38 will find the best torqueless position.
    Every landing you walk away, is a good landing.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Clarksville, MD
    Posts
    935
    Quote Originally Posted by Goodking View Post
    Hey all, quick question for ya... I have been shooting without the limb stops and the draw length is pretty much perfect with the current module. If I add the limb stops it shortens the draw by a huge amount. Is there a way you can get around this without buying another module?

    Lastly, what does you stabiliser set ups look like in terms of weight distribution? Hanging the bow up I have it perfectly balanced, but I am finding it relatively tricky to prevent torque when aiming which is something I usually find easy.
    Set limb stops at the same point the cam flats hit the cables and they won't change the DL. Position them just after the cam flats hit the cables and you'll get a bit more let off (now the DL will increase slightly). Set prior to cam flats will shorten DL and increase holding weight. A draw board is a relatively inexpensive home made tool that will make measuring small changes/adjustments in your bow much easier and something you won't have to trust to someone else.

  4. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Goodking View Post
    Hey all, quick question for ya... I have been shooting without the limb stops and the draw length is pretty much perfect with the current module. If I add the limb stops it shortens the draw by a huge amount. Is there a way you can get around this without buying another module?

    Lastly, what does you stabiliser set ups look like in terms of weight distribution? Hanging the bow up I have it perfectly balanced, but I am finding it relatively tricky to prevent torque when aiming which is something I usually find easy.
    Do you want to to learn consistency?.................. ........no limb stops. Set your DL 100% accurate...OK not 100% but as much possible, Im down to about 1mm = 0.040"
    Balancing the bow perfectly could take a good month of hard work but you can make shortcut following my threads somewhere here in the subforum. A good start cold look like this:
    IMG_2004.jpg
    IMG_2002.jpg
    I need a single washer difference for my FITA (YES, the mood and form and physical its changing day to day, you will recognize this once you up to the level), the Field is a bit different animal but I always keep 2-3 washers in my pocket anyway....
    (btw, just to let you know, there is really a 2-3 washer difference in your form when you switch between FITA and Field )
    OK Archery DST-38 Absolute, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, CX,

  5. #30
    Can't help ya on back stabs since I only shoot a front bar



    Draw stops all depend on your liking. They do not change draw length unless you want them too. Unlike BigHUN I shoot hard back tension whether with a hook or a button and I simple love the stops. I like the consistency and knowing my shot is going off at the same time every time provided I'm against them whether I'm feeling strong or not so much. You can really micro tune with stops also. With the ok stops there is also no limb flexing since they hit against the heel of the limb. I've done lots of experimenting with stops and it's cool the changes you can do with those little guys. I have even used a caliper to set them.




  6. #31
    Yo, thanks for the tips all. I've spent a lot of time tuning the bow and getting it shooting great. The biggest challenge was probably finding my ideal grip on the bow, but once you get a feel for it, it's golden. Anyway, here are some pictures from earlier today. It was getting dark so the light wasn't great, but...

    20140911_185823_small.jpg

    20140911_185835_small.jpg

    it's true about the 'Lemon' colour that it really depends on the light. It's quite green in bright sunlight, more yellow in the duller light...

    Still playing around with weight distribution. I had the front and side rods stripped to the minimum in the pictures above, as you can see. The other thing is my draw feels a touch too short. I may need to go up a module, though, but it's fine for the time being, and we have a competitive shoot coming up so I'm not going to fiddle with anything too much at the moment.

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