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Thread: Tuning question on Anarch HC.

  1. #1
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    Tuning question on Anarch HC.

    I have an Anarch HC 2014. I recently had a go tuning this thing. It's my first compound. So all is very new to me. I made a Bar Clamp Press that works very well for string changes and such. If ever I need to completely disassemble the bow I fear there won't be enough travel in my makeshift press. So far that has not been an issue. I have been reading Nuts and Bolts. I have arrow rest and nock height set such that the arrow is square to the string. Both cam draw stops touch at the same time. Now here is where it gets a bit funky. In order to get a bareshaft flying straight I had to adjust the limb bolts. Adjusting the limb bolts was the only way I could get a straight bareshaft arrow flight while keeping the timing in sync. Nuts and Bolts talks about this as one of the methods of achieving upper and lower limbs to balance their work load. So I got the bareshafts to fly and land right. Thing is is the upper limb bolt is bottomed out while the lower limb bolt is out about three turns. The bow is shooting better than it ever has. It just looks a little odd. What do y'all think? Am I missing something? Has anyone else experienced this?
    Someone is sure ask about draw weight, length, arrow spine etc.
    -Draw weight 48 lbs
    -Draw length 28 inches
    -arrows are Carbon Express Blue Streak 150, cut to 29-3/4"
    -tips weigh 50gr. So total arrow weight is 285gr.



  2. #2
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    You will get a better tune with the top stop hitting a little before the bottom stop.

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    Another thing. Did you check for fletching contact?

  4. #4
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    I'm thinking what I really need is a draw board and check nock travel. So far my groups are the tightest they have ever been. I have also noticed a sizeable increase in arrow speed. My tuning efforts have given me about 20fps.
    As for fletch contact... My rest is a limb driver. I had my wife film the arrow rest during a release. We used my iPhone 5s. It has a slow motion mode. It is not quite enough to get clear pics. However, there is some blurred imagery that shows the rest down before the fletch arrival.

  5. #5
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    Most hybrid cam systems will tune best with the top draw stop hitting a little before the bottom stop. The HC is no exception. It allows for a firmer back wall and it takes care of some nock travel. You should not have to have the limb bolts 3 full turns different.

    The reason you have to have the bottom limb turned out so far is because you have the nock point to low. Put it at 1/8" high and start tuning again with the limb bolts tight and the top stop hitting 1/8" before the bottom.
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  6. #6
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    You said you're using a limbriver rest, these are really hard to tune for bareshafts....
    I had one on my HC too and the bareshafts were always high and nock low.
    Then I put a blade rest on and had absolutely no issues with tuning, bareshaft flight what so ever
    When your bottom limb is turned out 3 full turns and the upper one is maxed out I woluld definitely correct this cause this a huge difference.
    As said before try with nockpopint 1/8 high and the top cam hit a bit before the bottom one - this should give you best results.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by crylle View Post
    You said you're using a limbriver rest, these are really hard to tune for bareshafts....
    I had one on my HC too and the bareshafts were always high and nock low.
    Then I put a blade rest on and had absolutely no issues with tuning, bareshaft flight what so ever
    When your bottom limb is turned out 3 full turns and the upper one is maxed out I woluld definitely correct this cause this a huge difference.
    As said before try with nockpopint 1/8 high and the top cam hit a bit before the bottom one - this should give you best results.
    I'm running the LD micro elite on my HC and Motive and haven't seen any issues bare shaft tuning. The LD will show form flaws more than a cable drop away due to the rest staying up longer. Maybe this is your issue with them?

  8. #8
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    Keep the ideas coming. So far I have tried all of the above. The LD I'm using is the Micro Elite. In the beginning I had some left right issues as well. My form was definitely the issue there. With it staying up longer there is little room for forgiveness. Now that I have that one figured out I can steer left or right at will. It's still the up down that has me baffled. Last night at the range I drilled a hole through the butt at 20 yds. So it's shooting straight. But for those limb bolts?

  9. #9
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    I had to increase the spring tension a bit on my LD. Where do you have the cord tied in?

  10. #10
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    I have the cord tied the upper axle.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZuluWhiskeyFox View Post
    I have the cord tied the upper axle.
    OK. Try adjusting the spring tension on the rest stiffer and see if it helps. After that.....IDK without having the bow in hand. I've set up and tuned 4 HC's and no problems other than one that I had a brain fart and had the limb deflections in the wrong place. LOL.

  12. #12
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    Spring tension is quite high. Rest is up at its upper limit of travel. So I can't raise nock height any more.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZuluWhiskeyFox View Post
    Spring tension is quite high. Rest is up at its upper limit of travel. So I can't raise nock height any more.
    You put the nock point 1/8" high and advanced the top cam 1/8"? There is no reason that you should have to have the limb bolts different by 3 full turns on that bow.

    You don't happen to have a lot of heal pressure on your grip do you? Unless you some how have different limb deflections, you shouldn't be having this problem if you've tried setting it up like we described.
    Bear Anarchy HC
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  14. #14
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    Talk to me about this limb deflection. Forgive my ignorance but I have no idea what you're referring to.

  15. #15
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    The quick and easy of limb deflection is the poundage of the limbs. It takes a higher deflection limb to achieve higher draw weights. If your bottom limbs are some how higher deflections than the top, that could cause this problem. However the chances of that happening are VERY VERY small. Limbs are matched in sets and then put on the bows with the entire set. It would be hard to get that different of deflection limbs on the same bow unless the shop that sold it did something shady.
    Bear Anarchy HC
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  16. #16
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    I agree. The deflection thing is unlikely. The heal pressure in my grip is more likely.

  17. #17
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    Ok so I've set both limb bolts exactly 2 turns out, top cam is 1/8" ahead, nock raised 1/8".
    Result at 14 yds is point of impact is the same, bare shaft is nock low about an inch. Is the nock low something I should be trying to address or is point of impact the end all and be all?

  18. #18
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    From 14 yds.

  19. #19
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    I would do all of these 3 things.

    Take 1 full twist out of each yoke leg on the buss cable. You could take a half twist out of the bottom of the buss but I don't like to do that because a lot of half twists in and out will bend and flex your serving back and forth and can loosen it. Shoot and see how it reacts.

    If it's still nock low, move the nock point up 1/16" and shoot again and see how it reacts.

    If it's still nock low, move the rest down 1/16" and shoot again and see how it reacts.

    On a side note, can you post pics of your D-loop set up and maybe one of you at full draw so we can see your anchor? I have a strange feeling that you may need a tied nock point under your nock and that you have one only on top. Just a guess though.
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  20. #20
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    This is first time I've seen a pic of myself at full draw. I'm thinking I might be a little long on DL.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZuluWhiskeyFox View Post


    This is first time I've seen a pic of myself at full draw. I'm thinking I might be a little long on DL.
    I agree and I think it's great that you can see that yourself. Most people won't accept or admit that they may need to go shorter. I'd drop 1" and see how that goes. Make sure you don't bend your bow arm more to get to your same posture and anchor position otherwise the DL change will not be effective. Also work on moving your torso toward the target and your hips back a bit so that you're standing with your shoulders directly above your hips.

    Your loop looks a little tight to me. I know that the bow is a longer ATA than most out there today so you typically don't have to worry as much about nock pinch but it's always better to err on the side of caution. I'd loosen that bottom knot and tie in a 1/8" nock point below your nock. Make sure you leave a small gap between the nock and the tied nock point. I usually use .014 diameter serving for tied nock points and I leave about two thicknesses of serving for a gap. If you do have any nock pinch, that will take care of it. Here's a good picture tutorial of a great way to tie nock points. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2075841

    It also helps when if you need to replace your loop to get it back in the same spot each time.
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  22. #22
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    Draw length reduced 1". Now 27". Feels funny. Will take a bit of getting used to.

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    Almost looks like my D loop could be shorter. But it's already pretty short.

  24. #24
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    3 lines that tell a lot. The yellow line is vertical through the top of your head, the red line is vertical through the center of your hips, and the blue line is vertical through the center of your feet. All 3 lines should be on top of one another.
    guy.jpg

    It will take a full body weight shift toward your front foot and also a torso tip toward the target. It'll probably end up requiring a shorter DL too. Luckily you have a bow that adjusts easily with rotating mods.
    Bear Anarchy HC
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  25. #25
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    Oh my. That's going to take some practice. I'm thinking I best this under control before I do much more messin with my bow.

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