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Thread: Foot Stirrup Wrap

  1. #1
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    Foot Stirrup Wrap

    I keep seeing pics of bows with something wrapped around the stirrup. What are ya'll using to wrap around it? Looks kinda like electrical tape.

    Obsession Evolution | Athens Exceed 300 | Trinity Archery Stabilizer | Stryker Solution LS 390


  2. #2
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    I used a bicycle inner tube wrapped tight in electrical tape. I then covered that in camo hockey tape, cause Canada eh.
    Solution 350

  3. #3
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    I use ... a wrap of electrical rubber tape covered with a wrap of black non-reflective hockey tape. ( http://www.hockeymonkey.com/tape.html ) The rubber tape must have a cover over it as it is designed to self vulcanize around electrical connectors but can not stand up to sunlight over long periods of time. Hockey tape is tough as nails since it's designed for wrapping stick blades to get the snot knocked out of it by 250lb gorillas with lethally wicked slap shots striking frozen hockey pucks. The combination makes for a nice dampened stirrup that holds up well to stepping on during reloads. ( http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/...FT-Et9QTTw_wcB )
    Scorpyd Velocity165 425.5fps @ 426gr & 171KE, Zeiss 3-12 Illum Duralyt, CamX Accuspine, 100gr RamCats, & Firenocks. Scorpyd Orion150 Leupold 2.5-8x36mm, AcuDraw. Swarovski bino, Leica rangefinder, Surefire, Deerelight & Fenix lights.
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  4. #4
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    I just rewrapped my Matrix stirrup with hockey tape. However, Im going to pick up a roll of electrial and wrap that over it and then another layer of hockey tape. Gonna see how that works for dampening/vibration comtrol
    Parker Blackhawk, 20in CE Hunters, 100Gr Grim Reaper Xbow Razortips
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  5. #5
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    I wrap as tightly as possible with thin paracord.
    "It don't really matter what kinda bow you choose to shoot. Just as long as you like it, practice and become a good shot. It's all good." rt2bowhunter

    "Some feel that all should do as they do: this is questionable at best." sew

  6. #6
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    I use the rubber e tape on the stirrup, can't really tell that it does much for shock , vibration, but it certainly should I guess, I tried some
    of the bow snuff sound deadening putty on my 380, , again, I guess everything we do helps, but it's hard to perceive any real major improvements.
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  7. #7
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    I quit doing it but when I did it I used the soft side of velcro and then wrapped it with electrical tape.
    John 3:16
    Matrix 380
    Excalibur Ibex

  8. #8
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    I like to use Plasti-Dip from Harbor Freight. I dip the stirrup about 3 times and once dried it gives it a durable factory-like finish. If it should ever wear down from use all you have to do is re-dip the front end.

  9. #9
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    Wallmart has a fake leather sorta rubber wrap in the Tennis racket section for $3 It works great looks great and is durable

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainstreet View Post
    Wallmart has a fake leather sorta rubber wrap in the Tennis racket section for $3 It works great looks great and is durable
    X2 , good stuff to use.
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  11. #11
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    I don't do, wrap!

  12. #12
    On my 330 I used those flat limbsaver stick on. One on each side makes for a neat look. On my 380 I used silicone rescue tape. And wrap tight. It has tore in one spot.
    I'm like Randy I just didn't see where it did much to quiet the bow. But if you like it it didn't make it louder
    Just a down to earth Bowhunter.

  13. #13
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    I use Allen cloth camo tape, matches the rest of the bow nicely
    Why do I hunt? Simple, it's BASIC.
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  14. #14
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    I had some black cloth bicycle handlebar tape laying around, and used that. Works great. Make sure your broadheads don't hit the wrap, though!

    ~E

  15. #15
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    Do any of these leave a glue like sticky residue if you ever peel the stuff off?

    Thanks for all the great info btw.....love this site
    Obsession Evolution | Athens Exceed 300 | Trinity Archery Stabilizer | Stryker Solution LS 390

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by bbahunter View Post
    X2 , good stuff to use.
    x3 this what I wrapped my wife's 330 with and it worked great
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClintRhodes View Post
    Do any of these leave a glue like sticky residue if you ever peel the stuff off?

    Thanks for all the great info btw.....love this site
    Mine will not. I put the inner tube on mine so that would not be an issue. Not sure the tube would do anything more than with just the electrical tape covered in hockey tape. The pasti-dip idea from RH6898 has my curiosity now though.
    Solution 350

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by RH6898 View Post
    I like to use Plasti-Dip from Harbor Freight. I dip the stirrup about 3 times and once dried it gives it a durable factory-like finish. If it should ever wear down from use all you have to do is re-dip the front end.
    This is exactly what I will be doing to my stirrup.
    Middleton 325/400SS - Hawke XB30 Compact SR - BE Executioners - Exodus Swept - Agingcrossbower Stock

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Baker View Post
    This is exactly what I will be doing to my stirrup.
    Just a few tips I learned from trial and error...

    Pour the Plasti-Dip in a suitable size plastic container that has a lid. The ones that come with lunch meat that you buy at the grocery store work great.

    Dip the stirrup slowly and remove very slow covering the sides and front of the stirrup leaving the screw holes exposed. Tie a string around the screw hole area and hang to dry for at least 30 minutes before re-dipping. Cover the plastic container tightly so the Plasti-Dip does not start to dry, some will but that's OK, just stir with a screw driver or something similar before applying second coat.

    After about 30 to 45 minutes it's OK to dip the second time, dip slowly and remove very slow to prevent air bubbles and limit any dripping. If some drips and it's uneven, just dunk it again and swirl it around in the container and remove again. Then hang to dry in a well ventilated area, the stuff has a strong paint like smell until it dries. If it looks a little messy or uneven that's OK, it shrinks and conforms to the shape of the stirrup while drying which takes about 12 hours. It will look really nice when finished.

    I usually dip mine about 3 times so I have a good solid coat, dip to personal preference. If you have more than one stirrup to dip it's best to dip them all at the same time. Once the can of Plasti-Dip has been opened it usually starts to dry up pretty quick even when closed. I also wrap a strip of electrical tape at both ends where the Plasti-Dip ends close to the screw hole area. This gives it a nice finished look and prevents the ends of the plastic from pealing up away from the stirrup. It's actually a very simple and easy process that provides a very tough rubber-like finish.

    Hope this helps anyone that may be interested.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by RH6898 View Post
    Just a few tips I learned from trial and error...

    Pour the Plasti-Dip in a suitable size plastic container that has a lid. The ones that come with lunch meat that you buy at the grocery store work great.

    Dip the stirrup slowly and remove very slow covering the sides and front of the stirrup leaving the screw holes exposed. Tie a string around the screw hole area and hang to dry for at least 30 minutes before re-dipping. Cover the plastic container tightly so the Plasti-Dip does not start to dry, some will but that's OK, just stir with a screw driver or something similar before applying second coat.

    After about 30 to 45 minutes it's OK to dip the second time, dip slowly and remove very slow to prevent air bubbles and limit any dripping. If some drips and it's uneven, just dunk it again and swirl it around in the container and remove again. Then hang to dry in a well ventilated area, the stuff has a strong paint like smell until it dries. If it looks a little messy or uneven that's OK, it shrinks and conforms to the shape of the stirrup while drying which takes about 12 hours. It will look really nice when finished.

    I usually dip mine about 3 times so I have a good solid coat, dip to personal preference. If you have more than one stirrup to dip it's best to dip them all at the same time. Once the can of Plasti-Dip has been opened it usually starts to dry up pretty quick even when closed. I also wrap a strip of electrical tape at both ends where the Plasti-Dip ends close to the screw hole area. This gives it a nice finished look and prevents the ends of the plastic from pealing up away from the stirrup. It's actually a very simple and easy process that provides a very tough rubber-like finish.

    Hope this helps anyone that may be interested.
    Middleton 325/400SS - Hawke XB30 Compact SR - BE Executioners - Exodus Swept - Agingcrossbower Stock

  21. #21
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    How thick would you say a three dip coat is on it? I may do this during the week.
    Solution 350

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by branger View Post
    How thick would you say a three dip coat is on it? I may do this during the week.
    I'm guessing but I will say no more than 1/8th", probably more like a 1/16" ? You can always start with 2 coats and add another coat after several hours once you see how it is shrinking up on the stirrup. Too many coats will not leave a very smooth finish.
    Last edited by RH6898; July 5th, 2014 at 10:54 PM.

  23. #23
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    I wrap ... mine to keep the aluminum stirrup from getting all scratched and gouged. I'm not really concerned with vibration to be honest. The stirrup starts to get sharp nicks and gleaming scratches that bothered me. It also quiets everything down during reloading and hanging. Plus, keeps the bow from sliding around on the treestand floor during reloads. The bare metal stirrup just has too many chances to clink, clank and ping. An insulating wrap makes that very prominent issue go away.

    No, rubber tape leaves no residue.
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    Scorpyd Velocity165 425.5fps @ 426gr & 171KE, Zeiss 3-12 Illum Duralyt, CamX Accuspine, 100gr RamCats, & Firenocks. Scorpyd Orion150 Leupold 2.5-8x36mm, AcuDraw. Swarovski bino, Leica rangefinder, Surefire, Deerelight & Fenix lights.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RH6898 View Post
    I like to use Plasti-Dip from Harbor Freight. I dip the stirrup about 3 times and once dried it gives it a durable factory-like finish. If it should ever wear down from use all you have to do is re-dip the front end.

    This sounds like a great idea. I have two questions:

    Did you order this online or do they stock in at the local harbor freight stores?

    Did you remove the stirrup before dipping it? (I am actually away from home and don't remember if the stirrup can be unbolted on the ventilator 150)

    Thanks
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  25. #25
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    I picked up the Plasti-Dip at the local Harbor Freight and I removed the stirrup prior to dipping.
    Last edited by RH6898; July 13th, 2014 at 09:25 PM.

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