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Thread: Draw board

  1. #1

    Draw board

    What scales are you guys using. My scale sucks. I'm looking for one that's pretty accurate so I can figure holding weight on my draw board. Also looking to build a new draw board and looking for some pics if anyone has any. I'd like to do one a bit more accurate and include a permanent ruler
    Thanks



  2. #2
    OK Archery, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, CX,

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    735
    Nice draw board , i wouldn't use those cheap little scales without a safety rope ( seen 3 or them broken ) Check into an american weigh scale tl 330 over built , accurate and weighs down to 2 tenths of a pound . They cost about $60 .

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by dmoose66 View Post
    Nice draw board , i wouldn't use those cheap little scales without a safety rope ( seen 3 or them broken ) Check into an american weigh scale tl 330 over built , accurate and weighs down to 2 tenths of a pound . They cost about $60 .
    I've bought this one about 6-7 years ago and used a lot, maybe I'll switch soon to some other draw force meter. thx
    OK Archery, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, CX,

  5. #5
    BigHUN thanks for the pics. Pretty close to what I wanted so they are a big help!!
    Moose thanks for the tip on the scale..!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by dave-madden View Post
    BigHUN thanks for the pics. Pretty close to what I wanted so they are a big help!!
    Moose thanks for the tip on the scale..!
    I would also go for the worm gear winch, you can stop it at any position...the bad too much turning but I am thinking building something to the axle to wrap the steel cable on bigger OD, as big the teeths are and that way less winding
    OK Archery, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, CX,

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by bigHUN View Post
    I would also go for the worm gear winch, you can stop it at any position...the bad too much turning but I am thinking building something to the axle to wrap the steel cable on bigger OD, as big the teeths are and that way less winding
    Great point! I have the geared one now and it sucks. I was gonna add a turnbuckle but since in gonna build anew one I'm just gonna change winches.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Eastern France - Dijon
    Posts
    204
    Very nice !
    If possible please send some more photos (Protection of bow where it is attached onto the board)
    Please take note that because of the rising prices of the arrow manufacturers I can do no more warning shots !

  9. #9
    OK Archery, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, CX,

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Eastern France - Dijon
    Posts
    204
    Great - thanks !
    Please take note that because of the rising prices of the arrow manufacturers I can do no more warning shots !

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    near Aschaffenburg, Germany
    Posts
    185
    And here some pics of mine
    DB1.jpg
    DB2.jpg
    DB3.jpg
    Please understand that I'm writing in a foreign language , so perhaps not everything is written correct!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    2,558
    AWESOME job, Molch!!

  13. #13
    Awesome pics!! In any language

    danke schoen

  14. #14
    When I have a long close look at the fixing of the bows, can I be sure that the cam-timing is still the same like pulling the bow by hand?
    I assume that the pressure on the grip is different by hand to the three fixing points on a drawboard. Is there any effect on synchronicity during drawcycle and at full draw and/or can I ignore it?

    Thanks for any advice.
    Every landing you walk away, is a good landing.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    2,558
    Quote Originally Posted by northshorewolf View Post
    When I have a long close look at the fixing of the bows, can I be sure that the cam-timing is still the same like pulling the bow by hand?
    I assume that the pressure on the grip is different by hand to the three fixing points on a drawboard. Is there any effect on synchronicity during drawcycle and at full draw and/or can I ignore it?

    Thanks for any advice.
    Ya know, I think that's a great question. Maybe its not noticeable, but I can see it having potential effects. Similar to how relocating your nock will change timing.

    I wish there was an easy way to change the pivot point on my shooter to test it out (I use the Kwik shooter as my drawboard).

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Ned250 View Post
    Ya know, I think that's a great question. Maybe its not noticeable, but I can see it having potential effects. Similar to how relocating your nock will change timing.

    I wish there was an easy way to change the pivot point on my shooter to test it out (I use the Kwik shooter as my drawboard).
    Kwik has a new " grip " that allows for pressure and grip varations - he said it will fit the older model and runs $25 -
    Finish tune need be done by hand at distance , so its kind of a mute point unless your looking for compair and contrast -

    As far as draw boards , The Bow draw winch is a great commercial product , with the pivioting stand - I dont understand why this product is not brought up more often -
    p_bow draw stand uphill.jpg
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LXom6NChws#t=85

  17. #17
    The bow draw winch is a good light duty draw board. My friend owns one. It is however, a little flimsy for my liking.
    Team Whack 'Em & Stack 'Em- Sees No Deer
    SPIKEPRESS-http://www.archerytooling.com

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by NoDeerInIowa View Post
    The bow draw winch is a good light duty draw board. My friend owns one. It is however, a little flimsy for my liking.
    Mah , you get used to it , or bolt it down
    but yea it was a little skeetchy at first , but nothing is going any where -
    No need to call it light duty in my opinion
    The product would in deed benift from a stronger build for sure -

  19. #19
    I had a ratcheting winch on my hootershooter, was kind of frustrating setting a consistent DL again and again (between clicks, and yes it was laud to), this why I went with wormgear on the draw board,
    this I hate - must wind it crazy long to draw the bow, but a good thing I can stop any position no need to lock it down,
    also, I use 2mm steel cable, doesn't stretch like the straps or as it was on my HS a paracord.
    OK Archery, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, CX,

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by northshorewolf View Post
    When I have a long close look at the fixing of the bows, can I be sure that the cam-timing is still the same like pulling the bow by hand?
    I assume that the pressure on the grip is different by hand to the three fixing points on a drawboard. Is there any effect on synchronicity during drawcycle and at full draw and/or can I ignore it?

    Thanks for any advice.

    Certainly an interesting question. My current draw board is a single pivot and my winch is in direct line with my pipe I use for the grip. As expected on the draw the top of the bow leans way back but once it reaches a certain point it evens out almost perfectly. I did some messing with it and my thought are as long as the contact points are every spaced from the axles it should be extremely close to a shooter holding the grip. I think it's pretty hard to torque a bow out of time with grip alone but I suppose if one applied a lot of pressure to the heel of the grip it would be possible. Not sure on how a bow like a dst40 where the react to having more points of contact on the riser then just at the grip but I suspect it could throw things out a bit

  21. #21
    I have tried both ways with the draw board,
    - locking the riser on 3 points and/or let the riser swivel around the post, can't duplicate the hand position and the pressure point anyhow,
    so the creep tune is still the most precise way to 100% cam timing...I am doing this at 50 and the sweet spot is about 1" wide at 50....meters within half turn on cables.
    There I stopped and just moved the half turn towards most solid wall (both cams touching same time) and promised to myself I won't creep in scoring conditions...
    I set it in the way if I still creep that must be 1/4" or more to show at 50...and the POI must be higher then a group....I believe this is safer because when a fatigue comes to play we usually start dropping the bow arm anyway.
    OK Archery, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, CX,

  22. #22
    I agree, I tune the bow to a solid wall by hand like bigHUN does, without creep tuning. I feel any changing or difference when both cams are touching the cables. Nevertheless I will try creep tuning. So... do I need a valley for creep tuning?
    How "wide" is your valley? I think, there could be a little problem for me with creep tuning, because with my 60% modules I have a valley near Zero. I like this, because it forces me to stand solid in the bow.
    Every landing you walk away, is a good landing.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    california
    Posts
    663
    58# DW, 27.5" DL
    2011 Hoyt Carbon Element (CarL)
    2013 PSE Stinger 3G (Stinger)
    199? PSE Fire Flight (Given to oldest son)
    Started Archery Jan, 2013 (2 robinhoods to date)

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by northshorewolf View Post
    I agree, I tune the bow to a solid wall by hand like bigHUN does, without creep tuning. I feel any changing or difference when both cams are touching the cables. Nevertheless I will try creep tuning. So... do I need a valley for creep tuning?
    How "wide" is your valley? I think, there could be a little problem for me with creep tuning, because with my 60% modules I have a valley near Zero. I like this, because it forces me to stand solid in the bow.
    I have no valley, it feels like "almost" gets to valley but the cable stop is way before that. I measure the holding weight is about 23 but when touch the cable climbs up to 26....so I don't pull it into wall but adjusted the DL precisely to that "touch only " and if I creep it by purpose creeping is very hard to hold, either I "touch" or if it is 1/2" or wider it collapses back to let down...
    OK Archery, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, CX,

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by wpod View Post
    I like your project board
    OK Archery, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, CX,

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