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Thread: Draw board

  1. #1

    Draw board

    What scales are you guys using. My scale sucks. I'm looking for one that's pretty accurate so I can figure holding weight on my draw board. Also looking to build a new draw board and looking for some pics if anyone has any. I'd like to do one a bit more accurate and include a permanent ruler
    Thanks



  2. #2
    OK Archery DST-38 Absolute, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, Cascade, Synunm

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    547
    Nice draw board , i wouldn't use those cheap little scales without a safety rope ( seen 3 or them broken ) Check into an american weigh scale tl 330 over built , accurate and weighs down to 2 tenths of a pound . They cost about $60 .

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by dmoose66 View Post
    Nice draw board , i wouldn't use those cheap little scales without a safety rope ( seen 3 or them broken ) Check into an american weigh scale tl 330 over built , accurate and weighs down to 2 tenths of a pound . They cost about $60 .
    I've bought this one about 6-7 years ago and used a lot, maybe I'll switch soon to some other draw force meter. thx
    OK Archery DST-38 Absolute, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, Cascade, Synunm

  5. #5
    BigHUN thanks for the pics. Pretty close to what I wanted so they are a big help!!
    Moose thanks for the tip on the scale..!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by dave-madden View Post
    BigHUN thanks for the pics. Pretty close to what I wanted so they are a big help!!
    Moose thanks for the tip on the scale..!
    I would also go for the worm gear winch, you can stop it at any position...the bad too much turning but I am thinking building something to the axle to wrap the steel cable on bigger OD, as big the teeths are and that way less winding
    OK Archery DST-38 Absolute, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, Cascade, Synunm

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by bigHUN View Post
    I would also go for the worm gear winch, you can stop it at any position...the bad too much turning but I am thinking building something to the axle to wrap the steel cable on bigger OD, as big the teeths are and that way less winding
    Great point! I have the geared one now and it sucks. I was gonna add a turnbuckle but since in gonna build anew one I'm just gonna change winches.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Eastern France - Dijon
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    Very nice !
    If possible please send some more photos (Protection of bow where it is attached onto the board)
    Please take note that because of the rising prices of the arrow manufacturers I can do no more warning shots !

  9. #9
    OK Archery DST-38 Absolute, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, Cascade, Synunm

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Eastern France - Dijon
    Posts
    197
    Great - thanks !
    Please take note that because of the rising prices of the arrow manufacturers I can do no more warning shots !

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    near Aschaffenburg, Germany
    Posts
    180
    And here some pics of mine
    DB1.jpg
    DB2.jpg
    DB3.jpg
    Please understand that I'm writing in a foreign language , so perhaps not everything is written correct!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    2,331
    AWESOME job, Molch!!

  13. #13
    Awesome pics!! In any language

    danke schoen

  14. #14
    When I have a long close look at the fixing of the bows, can I be sure that the cam-timing is still the same like pulling the bow by hand?
    I assume that the pressure on the grip is different by hand to the three fixing points on a drawboard. Is there any effect on synchronicity during drawcycle and at full draw and/or can I ignore it?

    Thanks for any advice.
    Every landing you walk away, is a good landing.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    2,331
    Quote Originally Posted by northshorewolf View Post
    When I have a long close look at the fixing of the bows, can I be sure that the cam-timing is still the same like pulling the bow by hand?
    I assume that the pressure on the grip is different by hand to the three fixing points on a drawboard. Is there any effect on synchronicity during drawcycle and at full draw and/or can I ignore it?

    Thanks for any advice.
    Ya know, I think that's a great question. Maybe its not noticeable, but I can see it having potential effects. Similar to how relocating your nock will change timing.

    I wish there was an easy way to change the pivot point on my shooter to test it out (I use the Kwik shooter as my drawboard).

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    at home
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ned250 View Post
    Ya know, I think that's a great question. Maybe its not noticeable, but I can see it having potential effects. Similar to how relocating your nock will change timing.

    I wish there was an easy way to change the pivot point on my shooter to test it out (I use the Kwik shooter as my drawboard).
    Kwik has a new " grip " that allows for pressure and grip varations - he said it will fit the older model and runs $25 -
    Finish tune need be done by hand at distance , so its kind of a mute point unless your looking for compair and contrast -

    As far as draw boards , The Bow draw winch is a great commercial product , with the pivioting stand - I dont understand why this product is not brought up more often -
    p_bow draw stand uphill.jpg
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LXom6NChws#t=85
    The harder I pull , the faster I shoot , the faster I shoot the less I think , The less I think the better I shoot.
    #XS

  17. #17
    The bow draw winch is a good light duty draw board. My friend owns one. It is however, a little flimsy for my liking.
    Team Whack 'Em & Stack 'Em- Sees No Deer
    SPIKEPRESS-http://www.archerytooling.com

  18. #18
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoDeerInIowa View Post
    The bow draw winch is a good light duty draw board. My friend owns one. It is however, a little flimsy for my liking.
    Mah , you get used to it , or bolt it down
    but yea it was a little skeetchy at first , but nothing is going any where -
    No need to call it light duty in my opinion
    The product would in deed benift from a stronger build for sure -
    The harder I pull , the faster I shoot , the faster I shoot the less I think , The less I think the better I shoot.
    #XS

  19. #19
    I had a ratcheting winch on my hootershooter, was kind of frustrating setting a consistent DL again and again (between clicks, and yes it was laud to), this why I went with wormgear on the draw board,
    this I hate - must wind it crazy long to draw the bow, but a good thing I can stop any position no need to lock it down,
    also, I use 2mm steel cable, doesn't stretch like the straps or as it was on my HS a paracord.
    OK Archery DST-38 Absolute, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, Cascade, Synunm

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by northshorewolf View Post
    When I have a long close look at the fixing of the bows, can I be sure that the cam-timing is still the same like pulling the bow by hand?
    I assume that the pressure on the grip is different by hand to the three fixing points on a drawboard. Is there any effect on synchronicity during drawcycle and at full draw and/or can I ignore it?

    Thanks for any advice.

    Certainly an interesting question. My current draw board is a single pivot and my winch is in direct line with my pipe I use for the grip. As expected on the draw the top of the bow leans way back but once it reaches a certain point it evens out almost perfectly. I did some messing with it and my thought are as long as the contact points are every spaced from the axles it should be extremely close to a shooter holding the grip. I think it's pretty hard to torque a bow out of time with grip alone but I suppose if one applied a lot of pressure to the heel of the grip it would be possible. Not sure on how a bow like a dst40 where the react to having more points of contact on the riser then just at the grip but I suspect it could throw things out a bit

  21. #21
    I have tried both ways with the draw board,
    - locking the riser on 3 points and/or let the riser swivel around the post, can't duplicate the hand position and the pressure point anyhow,
    so the creep tune is still the most precise way to 100% cam timing...I am doing this at 50 and the sweet spot is about 1" wide at 50....meters within half turn on cables.
    There I stopped and just moved the half turn towards most solid wall (both cams touching same time) and promised to myself I won't creep in scoring conditions...
    I set it in the way if I still creep that must be 1/4" or more to show at 50...and the POI must be higher then a group....I believe this is safer because when a fatigue comes to play we usually start dropping the bow arm anyway.
    OK Archery DST-38 Absolute, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, Cascade, Synunm

  22. #22
    I agree, I tune the bow to a solid wall by hand like bigHUN does, without creep tuning. I feel any changing or difference when both cams are touching the cables. Nevertheless I will try creep tuning. So... do I need a valley for creep tuning?
    How "wide" is your valley? I think, there could be a little problem for me with creep tuning, because with my 60% modules I have a valley near Zero. I like this, because it forces me to stand solid in the bow.
    Every landing you walk away, is a good landing.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    california
    Posts
    653
    58# DW, 27.5" DL
    2011 Hoyt Carbon Element (CarL)
    2013 PSE Stinger 3G (Stinger)
    199? PSE Fire Flight (Given to oldest son)
    Started Archery Jan, 2013 (2 robinhoods to date)

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by northshorewolf View Post
    I agree, I tune the bow to a solid wall by hand like bigHUN does, without creep tuning. I feel any changing or difference when both cams are touching the cables. Nevertheless I will try creep tuning. So... do I need a valley for creep tuning?
    How "wide" is your valley? I think, there could be a little problem for me with creep tuning, because with my 60% modules I have a valley near Zero. I like this, because it forces me to stand solid in the bow.
    I have no valley, it feels like "almost" gets to valley but the cable stop is way before that. I measure the holding weight is about 23 but when touch the cable climbs up to 26....so I don't pull it into wall but adjusted the DL precisely to that "touch only " and if I creep it by purpose creeping is very hard to hold, either I "touch" or if it is 1/2" or wider it collapses back to let down...
    OK Archery DST-38 Absolute, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, Cascade, Synunm

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by wpod View Post
    I like your project board
    OK Archery DST-38 Absolute, CarboFast, Shibuya, Beiter, Cascade, Synunm

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