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Holding weight

5K views 32 replies 11 participants last post by  locusthill1831 
#1 ·
Absolute 38, 70% mods 14lb holding weight, 60% mods 20lb holding weight (very little valley), looking for 16-17lb holding weight, ? best way to achieve.
Thanks.
 
#2 ·
What size mods are you shooting and what's your draw length and what position in The mod are you.


Here is a change I made to my bow and the effects of twisting and changing mod yet keeping same draw length.


First off my bow is not stock. I did a cam swap so my specs vary from factory. Ok archery ships bow to your exact specs that you ask for unlike most companies.


When I swapped cams I didn't have proper mods I needed a 27 3/4 draw length with med cams and I only had # 5 mods. So after twisting here were my specs for that setup

A to A.... 36 3/4"
Shortest slot on mod position
Draw length true 26 amo 27 3/4
Draw weight 64#
Holding weight 23ish pounds(my scale sucks)


Changed mods.....

Med cam longest slot #3 mod
A to A 36 3/4
Draw length 26 1/4 amo 28 (where it should be if in spec to chart)
70# draw weight 22# holding weight(weight should be higher since I swapped cams)

Next to put in my specs. My cables were over twisted so this was easy
I took exactly 10 twists out of each cable and checked timing and lean and adjusted as needed

A to A 37 1/8"
Draw length true 26 amo 27 3/4"
Draw weight 62# holding weight 20-21#.
 
#4 ·
The letter (A, B, C, D, E,.....) DL modules you won't have big valley for holding, so far I know all will be 22-23 lbs and above, only way you can lower by limb bolts out.
The numbered DL modules are all low letoff you can increase by twisting cables/string and measure and adjust the bow DL.
I have the same 7 and G with medium cams, swap them around several times just to get a feel which I like better. For target shooting below 22 lbs I don't feel the confident strong hold, I prefer 23-24 and I can lighten the bow taking out most of the stabilizer weights....
My new cables are 20 strands and enough cable stop, but I set my DL precise and I don't pull into the cable stops hard but to touch only.
Take the #7 and take out twists from cables (decrease the DL) and put twists to string (decrease the DL), move the DL modules to other hole (increase the DL) will increase the holding weight. a nice portable press and a draw board combination makes this really easy.
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#6 ·
don't be afraid playing, more you will learn about endless possibilities with these bows.
Also, whenever you change anything, you do one at a time and write down you log , test it, write down your feel about it....then you go to next....allways write it down what did you do so eventually you can get back to starting point...
 
#8 ·
Cams timing and powerstroke

Couple samples for you....I have no idea where I have it now but feels just priceless :tongue:
Somehow happened that I have two cams, large and mediums, also I have several DL modules, and to get a full flavor in the game I have some 2-3 sets of custom length cables/strings :cool:
I can tear down the bow completely and back to the shooting lane within an hour time to prove the theory

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#60 - The number mods you can pump up the holding weight about to 22-23 lbs, the letter mods will give you about 24 lbs you can not lower down without lowering-letting out the limbs screws.
 
#10 ·
Some of the adjustments you are looking for can be made by simply setting the limb stops to hit a little before the cable stops on the mods.
This will shorten the valley and drawlength as well as the letoff.
 
#15 ·
Hey you Northern people could hold the winter couple more months, I didn't swap my summer performance tires yet :) I had to step out from house today the rubber won't grip the asphalt...
back tension is more a muscle then a hinge, two winters ago I spent several months with the hinge, I regret wasting my time, if I would invest this amount of time into my old release you would call me today .....MASTER ;)
 
#19 ·
Dave, was that add twists to cables and untwist string?

Was playing with removing just the top cable spreader to eliminate cable to cable contact. Obviously that changed cable length very slightly for the top set. The cams now hit exactly the same, so I must have had the top hitting just before the bottom cam. Feels like less of a valley but maybe it was just a mushy wall?

Really dislike depending on the limb stops. Had a failure of the screw that attaches the delrin stop to the cam (not on an OK product). It was a gradual fatigue failure. Happened during an indoor shoot. Couldn't figure out the very gradual vertical impact change until the screw reached the fail point..dropped about 5 or 6 points leading up to the fail. Will not shoot a cam system that depends on a limb stop for that reason.
 
#26 ·
Maybe the best solution would be if one of the spreaders was just a bit wider than the other. That way the cables would not touch each other. I just keep them well waxed to keep any friction at a minimum.

The advantage of having them touch might be that any vibration in them during the shot is immediately cancelled out.

The custom shoot through cables I built for my Hoyts have quite a bit of buzz during the shot - I got quite often: "that bow is loud, there is something rattling", as I'm shooting on the line.
 
#27 ·
I could be wrong , but, I bet if we were to see a high speed video of one of these bows being shot we would discover that the cables are moving a lot more than we could compensate for with a slight difference in the width of the spreaders. I agree that there would be less rubbing during the draw cycle, but during the shot cycle I bet there would still be contact between the cables.
 
#28 ·
I think you are correct. I have to say that whatever contact there is, it's not causing any ill effects on the cables as far as excess wear is concerned: the threads on my bow have been through 20000+ shots and they are like "brand new". Nothing moves!
 
#29 ·
I had over 50K shots on my DST40 and over 35K so far on my ABS38,
I don't see any reason to be concerned about cable contacts. With cable slides there is a way more pressure on cables and those can behave well over 40K before replacing.
I wax lubricate my strings/cables about twice a month over summer and less when the colder weather arrives, not to thick and not to thin, and rerun with scorpion venom just to make the smooth look.
???? why is a buzz?
 
#30 ·
I had over 50K shots on my DST40 and over 35K so far on my ABS38,
I don't see any reason to be concerned about cable contacts. With cable slides there is a way more pressure on cables and those can behave well over 40K before replacing.
I wax lubricate my strings/cables about twice a month over summer and less when the colder weather arrives, not to thick and not to thin, and rerun with scorpion venom just to make the smooth look.
This pretty much sums up my experience with my DST-38. You'll get tired of your string color long before you get any appreciable wear at the cable crossover. Certainly no more wear than a cable slide.
 
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