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Thread: Tuning Slick Trick Mag's with Evolution (frustrated!)

  1. #1

    Tuning Slick Trick Mag's with Evolution (frustrated!)

    Well, I've just about given up trying to tune these 100 gr slick trick magnums with my Evolution. Consistently hitting 3-6" left at 30 yds. Shooting GT XT Hunters, 5575/400 spine, 27". Field points are pretty much dead on (I walk back tuned with them), but when I tried moving the rest to the right (yes, in very, very small increments) to bring the ST's back in, there was no change. Got to the point where it was obvious to the naked eye that the rest was too far to the right...ST's still hit left...so I put it back to where it was.

    I've spun the arrows, changed BH to another arrow (same type) all with same results. No arrow/rest contact either. I know, I know, it's most likely my grip or form, but then again I try different things with the grip in between shots and they are still grouping together tight (but still 3-6" left of POA). I don't really want to move my sight out to the left because I feel it's just masking the problem.



    Only thing I haven't tried is a weaker spined arrow...I remember seeing a chart that said BH's hitting left means arrow might be too stiff. Is it possible with 60lbs, 28" DL, 27" that the 400 spine is too stiff? Anything else I may have missed? Any other tuning that can be done to the bow?
    2014 Obsession Evolution, 60/28, Stormy Hardwoods Gunmetal, Red cams
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  2. #2
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    No 400 should be money
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  3. #3
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    Might be to weak if anything
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  4. #4
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    I shoot BEA carnivore 400s out of my sniper GT at. 60# and 28.5" arrow cut to 27" with a 9.5 grain 7" wrap, 5 grain nock, 8 grain bushing, 3 BEA blazers and the standard nock and 100grn point. Shoots like a champ
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  5. #5
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    You should be ok with that set up pushing the rest should have worked
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Jnmoor00 View Post
    Might be to weak if anything

    Should I try a stiffer spine?
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  7. #7
    ok...just talked to a buddy who told me to check the ATA and brace height to make sure it was within specs...I measured 32 3/8" ATA, and brace was 5 7/8"...so looks like I might have some string stretch? Could this be causing tuning issues?
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  8. #8
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    Yes well no not really. If anything it would mess up the speed so cause "all you arrows to fly different". The problem must be In the arrow itself or mainly the heads. Try to shoot another type head and see if the same thing happens.
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  9. #9
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    Man sounds like a stiff arrow? Weird since it seems like a 400 should work? Normally I would try a stiffer shaft if my broadheads went left consistantly. Usually I have broadhead issues with broadheads going right due to weak spine.
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  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by wbates View Post
    Man sounds like a stiff arrow? Weird since it seems like a 400 should work? Normally I would try a stiffer shaft if my broadheads went left consistantly. Usually I have broadhead issues with broadheads going right due to weak spine.
    I know, right? Hope it turns out NOT to be the case...since I just bought a dozen of these 400's
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  11. #11
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    Try moving you rest the other way .

  12. #12
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    Try bareshaft paper tuning and try changing your grip. My evolution has a VERY small sweet spot as far as how I grip the bow that it will shoot bullet holes. Any slight change in grip and field points still group good but arrow flight/paper tune is erratic.
    29.5/70 Obsession Evolution. Bandwagon OB fanboy

  13. #13
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    I am shooting .340 Gold Tips out of my evolution set up very similar to yours.Shoots both Slick Tricks and Qad exodus great.
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  14. #14
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    I'd try moving your rest the other way just to see what it does.....I've heard of this fixing the issue before.

    Or back the poundage off a little and see if that changes anything.

    Then I'd try shooting a stiffer spine. I know the book says you're already too stiff because your BH's are hitting to the left, but in my experience my bows like a stiffer arrow than the charts recommend.
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  15. #15
    Ok. I"ll pick up a couple 340's and see what happens....

    WMA/ Wcork,
    I did try moving it left and still no luck.
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  16. #16
    How many turns can I safely make when backing off the poundage?
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  17. #17
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    You mentioned something about grip and form in the first post. Draw it back get comfortable then look the string at the top cam . Make sure the string is coming off straight. If not adjust grip until it is. Just another free thing to try.

    I don't know how many turns are safe .

  18. #18
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    I would shoot a bare shaft thru paper at 6ft and also check your nocking point. My Evolution was shooting well out to 80 yards, then I tried fixed head broadheads and
    shot 3" left, I shot many other broadheads and all the same, so went back to the basic's and found that my string streched and the nock pt was 1/4" high, and that my rest
    was not in the sweet spot anymore, I had a slight right tear, moved rest to the left to 14/16" (not the normal Evolution 13/16 sweet spot) got a perfect hole, then went and shot broadheads and they all shoot straight! Amazing these bows can shoot so well even out of tune. I am shooting Axis 340's cut to 27.5" with my 65# 29.5" Evolution. they weigh in at 450gr.
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  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by emjohnso View Post
    I would shoot a bare shaft thru paper at 6ft and also check your nocking point. My Evolution was shooting well out to 80 yards, then I tried fixed head broadheads and
    shot 3" left, I shot many other broadheads and all the same, so went back to the basic's and found that my string streched and the nock pt was 1/4" high, and that my rest
    was not in the sweet spot anymore, I had a slight right tear, moved rest to the left to 14/16" (not the normal Evolution 13/16 sweet spot) got a perfect hole, then went and shot broadheads and they all shoot straight! Amazing these bows can shoot so well even out of tune. I am shooting Axis 340's cut to 27.5" with my 65# 29.5" Evolution. they weigh in at 450gr.
    Pretty sure i have string stretch too, since my ata and brace ht are off. Think i'll take it to the shop monday and have him check everything...not sure how to check the nock position myself
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  20. #20
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    With a QAD HDX just nock an arrow and put the rest to the up position and measure for 90 degree's to the string, level bow in a vise too, measure your
    centershot, check that arrow is going thru center of berger holes, all very easy with a QAD. I started many years ago by taking bow to shop, but ended up
    not trusting anyone with my bows, so I have picked up all the tools over the years to service the bow now. Oh, my ATA and brace were just fine, and the cams timed perfectly, I have not
    twisted the cables since it came back from the super tuner which I bought it from. Biggest problem I have had is that the draw stops slip, and the rest bolts came loose and thus lost
    my centershot.
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  21. #21
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    You were moving your rest the wrong way, if broadheads are hitting left of field points you need to move your rest to the left to bring field points and broad heads together. I would bet that if you shoot a bare shaft through paper you would have a tail right tear. So you would need to move your rest to the left to correct the tear.

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel2370 View Post
    You were moving your rest the wrong way, if broadheads are hitting left of field points you need to move your rest to the left to bring field points and broad heads together. I would bet that if you shoot a bare shaft through paper you would have a tail right tear. So you would need to move your rest to the left to correct the tear.
    This contradicts everything I've read about tuning. Broadheads hitting left of FP's, you move the rest to the right...please tell me I'm not crazy.
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  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Silenceisgolden View Post
    This contradicts everything I've read about tuning. Broadheads hitting left of FP's, you move the rest to the right...please tell me I'm not crazy.
    For a right handed shooter..
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniel2370 View Post
    You were moving your rest the wrong way, if broadheads are hitting left of field points you need to move your rest to the left to bring field points and broad heads together. I would bet that if you shoot a bare shaft through paper you would have a tail right tear. So you would need to move your rest to the left to correct the tear.
    This is the correct movement for rest tuning
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  25. #25
    I've always read you chase fp's, from slick trick, read center shot section.

    http://www.slicktrick.net/node/36
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