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Thread: Almost ready to throw my Katera XL in the trash......

  1. #1

    Almost ready to throw my Katera XL in the trash......

    I have a Katera XL that has never tuned well.....


    60-70#
    Set at 62#
    28" DL
    Draw stop timing set so both stops are hitting at exactly the same time. I spent a good deal of time ensuring this was as perfect as could be.
    It is wearing the original strings (I think)
    Whisker Biscuit rest
    Tru Fire release
    Tied in nock set and D-loop (as per Deezlin) set at 1/8" high from the berger hole
    100 gr points

    I have tried 27 1/8" Axis 340s....and.... 26 7/8"Axis 400......and 27" Maxima weight forward 250s

    All paper tune tail high...no matter where I move the rest or the nock point

    I have been trying to get this bow to shoot for 5 years. I (thought I) upgraded to this bow when i gave my Ultratec to my younger brother for his birthday (a bow that I could easily tune and shoot accurately to 50 yds)

    I have no idea what to try. What could I be missing that is causing the tail high flight?



    Any and all ideas and replies appreciated. I am not looking forward to dragging my boat anchor (albeit deadly) ten point crossbow around this season.


  2. #2
    I forgot to add that the fletching for all of the arrows tried is NAP twister quickfletch

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I feel your pain man, I have been trying to get the high nock tear out of this vector for 3 weeks, I have taken the cables off and on the bow hundreds of times, to the point that the end loop serving is coming unraveled. Today I found a post that said to move d loop up and down until you get the best tear, this is what I did and the arrow is nocked a quarter inch high now. But guess what, it is shooting a perfect bullet hole now, I also had to adjust the yoke legs just a bit, had a left tear after the high tear was eliminated, twisted the left yoke leg a couple turns and that took care of the left tear. I am sure I dont have the bow (in spec), but guess what, I dont care, I have it shooting a good hole through paper, now Im going to try the kitchen sink tuning by nuts and bolts. I hope you get it right, I know I have dozens of hours of my time trying to get the bow to have good arrow flight, best of luck to you.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    I tune all my hoyts with the top cam hitting slightly ahead of the bottom.

  5. #5
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    Hey, I feel for you. Been there, done that more than I want. Cams synced, draw stop timed, limbs equal you'd think all should be good. Normally, the Hoyts I've set up come out about 1/16" nock high to give a decent tear. I don't care about bullet holes. I care how the bow is for accuracy.

    Something is wrong if you move the rest or nocking point and you don't see a change. Move, like move 1/4" or 3/8". If no change I suspect that whisker biscuit is interfering, not angled to match the arrow. Have you tried a different arrow rest, like a shoot thru, prong rest?

    I setup bows using a bow vice and bow string and arrow levels so to know what I truly have. RS levels are inexpensive, but they work. I have two sets of them.

    Couple of thing; under rotate the top cam one half twist at a time. Or what I don't like doing; try half turn in the bottom limb and half turn out for the top limb and see what you get. Yep, might effect the sync/timing a bit, but still should show something....
    Pearson MarXman, Limb Driver, Muddy Virtue HT3s, Bohning vanes, Sure Loc Challenger,
    Super Ball Peep, Stanislawski MagMicro Trio, Onyx, Blackjack and TRU Ball ST360, 30" Cartel.

  6. #6
    Thanks Folks. I will attempt every suggestion (individually of course)

    Please keep them coming

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    another suggestion....FORGET what it does thru paper.... use bareshaft tuning or broadhead tuning for a more precise tune to your bow... so many get wrapped up on paper and think that once theres one perfect hole its good.... dont forget your arrows are spinning and flexing after shot....

    another suggestion, have you tried a bareshaft thru that WB rest????

    but trully i would add 1/2 twist to your buss cable (if cams both exact same draw stop now) that will advance top just a tiny bit. then go ahead with other tuning...

    my Kat xl would shoot bareshafts fine with fletched arrows out to 30yds.....
    Hoyt Vector35 - QAD - Spot-Hogg - Doinker - Easton - FOB's
    Hoyt Dorado 50# - FMJ's
    T.R.U. Ball www.truball.com FOB's www.Starrflight.com Doinker www.doinker.com
    "If you dont stand behind our troops, feel free to stand in front of them!!"

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Something simple but often over looked, how is your string stop adjusted? It wasn't unusual for the carbon rods too be a bit long on that era Hoyt's. Too much string pressure will affect your high/low tears.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    One of the suggestions has to work, no doubt about it. Why? I had a new-in-the-box bow come to me. The only way I could get to shoot was back off the bottom limb bolt 4 full turns. Sent back to factory it was found miss matched limbs! 50 on top, 60 on bottom or something like that - 3 or 4 years ago now.
    Pearson MarXman, Limb Driver, Muddy Virtue HT3s, Bohning vanes, Sure Loc Challenger,
    Super Ball Peep, Stanislawski MagMicro Trio, Onyx, Blackjack and TRU Ball ST360, 30" Cartel.

  10. #10
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    A friend at work had a Katera XL and he fought that thing for a couple years...it never tuned right. It would shoot ok, good enough for hunting and he could get decent groups but the bow never could hit it's sweet spot. Multiple shops and myself along with a few other guys tried everything with not much luck. I am convinced it was a poorly made bow or a bad engineering design.

    Last fall he finally gave up and bought a DNA SP and we had that thing shooting bullet holes in paper and laser beam barshafts at 20 yards in about 15 shots. It made him fall in love with archery all over again, like a brand new archer.
    Last edited by TheScOuT; August 17th, 2014 at 08:36 AM. Reason: spelling
    I shoot arrows with a bow

    Team #7

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by dwagoner View Post

    another suggestion, have you tried a bareshaft thru that WB rest????

    but trully i would add 1/2 twist to your buss cable (if cams both exact same draw stop now) that will advance top just a tiny bit. then go ahead with other tuning...
    I will try the bare shaft methods too, Thanks

  12. #12
    A quick update-

    I put the bow in the draw board before pressing it.

    i must have had a little stretch as the top cam was under rotated a pinch (perhaps 1/8")

    I synced them up to hit at the same time, but it has not seemed to help.

    I am about to press it again and advance the top cam even further to see if that makes a difference.

  13. #13
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    if there dead even now then adjust to top hit 1/16 before bottom

    Wheres your nock height at???

    wheres your arrows in regards to berger hole???

    set centshot 3/4 -13/16
    Hoyt Vector35 - QAD - Spot-Hogg - Doinker - Easton - FOB's
    Hoyt Dorado 50# - FMJ's
    T.R.U. Ball www.truball.com FOB's www.Starrflight.com Doinker www.doinker.com
    "If you dont stand behind our troops, feel free to stand in front of them!!"

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by dwagoner View Post
    if there dead even now then adjust to top hit 1/16 before bottom-

    Wheres your nock height at???

    wheres your arrows in regards to berger hole???

    set centshot 3/4 -13/16
    I am going to advance the top cam a bit tonight and see what happens.

    the nocking point has been tried 3 locations ( set so the arrow is dead level thru the center of the berger hole, 1/8" high and 1/4" high)

    Given that I had some string creep (because the bottom cam advanced), could it be time for a new set of strings and cables? I think they are the original 2008 fuse set (which may have been junk to start with)

    what do you mean by set centershot 3/4-13/16/

  15. #15
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    if your string/cables are moving thats definitely a problem, cus there prolly gonna keep moving...

    centershot is the left/right adjustment of the rest. its measured from inside the riser to the center of arrow shaft..
    Hoyt Vector35 - QAD - Spot-Hogg - Doinker - Easton - FOB's
    Hoyt Dorado 50# - FMJ's
    T.R.U. Ball www.truball.com FOB's www.Starrflight.com Doinker www.doinker.com
    "If you dont stand behind our troops, feel free to stand in front of them!!"

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephan C View Post
    Given that I had some string creep (because the bottom cam advanced), could it be time for a new set of strings and cables? I think they are the original 2008 fuse set (which may have been junk to start with)
    If 2008 strings, yes, definitely change them. I change strings each year on my target bows, if I keep them. Anywhere from 16,000 to over 20,000 shots are put on my factory strings.

    Factory strings have been getting a bad rap for years for no-good reason. Most all today will go a year of hard shooting with maybe a minor adjustment. I can live with that.
    Pearson MarXman, Limb Driver, Muddy Virtue HT3s, Bohning vanes, Sure Loc Challenger,
    Super Ball Peep, Stanislawski MagMicro Trio, Onyx, Blackjack and TRU Ball ST360, 30" Cartel.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwagoner View Post
    another suggestion....FORGET what it does thru paper.... use bareshaft tuning or broadhead tuning for a more precise tune to your bow... so many get wrapped up on paper and think that once theres one perfect hole its good.... dont forget your arrows are spinning and flexing after shot....

    another suggestion, have you tried a bareshaft thru that WB rest????

    but trully i would add 1/2 twist to your buss cable (if cams both exact same draw stop now) that will advance top just a tiny bit. then go ahead with other tuning...

    my Kat xl would shoot bareshafts fine with fletched arrows out to 30yds.....
    Ditto on everything!!!

    Most bows dont shoot with draw stops exact due to different grip pressures by different shooters.
    My Katera XL also bareshafts out to 30 just fine.

  18. #18
    I have a set of winners choice on the way.

    I will install them, set the the sync so the top cam hits the stop a little first, the nock about 1/16" high and the centershot at 3/4" and report back.

    thank you everyone for all of the suggestions...and if there is anything I am missing or anything else I should try, please let me know!

  19. #19
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    thats definitely good starting point... just remember to shoot a few after initial setup so strings settle on bow...
    Hoyt Vector35 - QAD - Spot-Hogg - Doinker - Easton - FOB's
    Hoyt Dorado 50# - FMJ's
    T.R.U. Ball www.truball.com FOB's www.Starrflight.com Doinker www.doinker.com
    "If you dont stand behind our troops, feel free to stand in front of them!!"

  20. #20
    Copy that.

    How many shots does a new winners choice string typically take to "settle" (BCY-X material)

  21. #21
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    Not long. Some say you don't, some say up to 200 shots. My two cents; All set, peep in, fire half dozen shots to see if peep correction is needed. Correct if necessary and fire 6 more shots. Check peep. Anytime you press the bow and relieve string pressure a half dozen or so shots should always follow to make sure strings settle back in.
    Pearson MarXman, Limb Driver, Muddy Virtue HT3s, Bohning vanes, Sure Loc Challenger,
    Super Ball Peep, Stanislawski MagMicro Trio, Onyx, Blackjack and TRU Ball ST360, 30" Cartel.

  22. #22
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    agreed, not alot....after you install and do your tuning setup and cam sync and such youll have drawn back a few times, few shots, then when happy with bow specs put peep in and fire few.

    good info sonny posted
    Hoyt Vector35 - QAD - Spot-Hogg - Doinker - Easton - FOB's
    Hoyt Dorado 50# - FMJ's
    T.R.U. Ball www.truball.com FOB's www.Starrflight.com Doinker www.doinker.com
    "If you dont stand behind our troops, feel free to stand in front of them!!"

  23. #23
    Join Date
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    Take a full turn out of the top limb. I've had 2 Kat XLs and never had a problem tuning them.
    Road Crew Pro Staff
    I shoot bows

  24. #24

    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by Monkeybutt2000 View Post
    Take a full turn out of the top limb. I've had 2 Kat XLs and never had a problem tuning them.

    I will put that on my list of things to try as well.

    How do you have the cams synced before taking the turn out of the top limb? How are the synced afterward?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephan C View Post
    I will put that on my list of things to try as well.

    How do you have the cams synced before taking the turn out of the top limb? How are the synced afterward?
    If I was setting up this bow with new strings I would do this. Get your cam lean/sync rough set. Doesn't have to be perfect just close. Run about 100 arrows through it to get everything settled in. Then set nock height,cam lean and time cams. You can try the top ahead or both just hitting at the same time,whatever. I bet the new strings make a big difference.
    Road Crew Pro Staff
    I shoot bows

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