August 26th, 2014, 04:16 AM
i think tiller tuning would be a very last resort... i know alot have done it but on parallel bows its not as effective. i think new strings and a good setup will get you tuned....
biggest key is if bottom cam isnt too bad of lean, maybe weak limb, not sure if youve ever checked that
August 26th, 2014, 08:16 AM
I have not.
Originally Posted by dwagoner
what is the most effective method to check for cam lean (both top and bottom) on a Hoyt?
Is bottom cam lean correctable?
ETA:My strings should arrive within 48 hours
August 27th, 2014, 05:05 PM
bottom you just need to check to make sure its not excessive, you can lay an arrow along side of cam, reference the string as a straight line... sometimes people have had to swap limbs around. top you adjust from the Y in the buss cable so that controls top cam....
August 27th, 2014, 08:33 PM
While I hope one of the previously offered suggestions works, it may be that your Katera's riser is twisted. I bought a used Kobalt that wouldn't tune no matter what I tried. Only when I laid a steel 36" rule along each side as the bow was clamped in a bow vise did I notice a 1/8" twist measured between upper and lower limb pockets. The bow was pristine, no signs of trauma. I'm sure it came out of the factory that way. Fortunately for me, the AT seller took the bow back, but if it's twisted - it will be un-tunable.
August 27th, 2014, 10:08 PM
And all cam lean, whether top or bottom, doesn't mean the bow won't be accurate. Just look for excessive lean. Arrow across the cam and to the nock point, 1/4" isn't bad..... Changing shims will sometimes help correct cam lean.
And getting carried away, you may only need those new strings. Shoot the thing. If the bow drills at all yardages it rips paper a "mile" and I wouldn't care.
Pearson MX2 and MarXman, Limb Driver Pro, Muddy Virtue HT3s, Bohning vanes, Sure Loc Challenger,
Super Ball Peep, Stanislawski MagMicro Trio, Deuce, Blackjack, Shootoff, TRU Ball ST360, 30" Stinger
with Stinger back bars.
August 31st, 2014, 10:55 PM
I just made my first set of strings for my kat last summer. First set ever made.
Anyway I made them to exact tune chart info and it was super easy to get it in greAt tune.
I set it up exact. Shot it about 50 shots for fun and one or two twists and it was perfect!!!
Get a good custom set and life will be much easier to deal with. Lol
September 1st, 2014, 06:47 AM
Dude, this is funny no offense, you are asking elementary tuning question to want to throw your bow in the trash because you cant get it tuned.
top cam needs to be parallel with the string at full draw. Cams need to be in the right starting location, sync, bottom cam needs to hit a hair after the top. Nocking point needs to be at 90* from bow string through rest a little above the bottom of the burger hole. Set rest so that an arrow is parallel from an arrow pressed against the riser. 13/16ths to 3/4s. Shoot through paper with the arrow level to the ground. 3yds 9yds 12yds.
your grip makes a difference big time. All Bows tune unless limbs are swapped or cams are bent or something very unlikely.
April 27th, 2015, 10:14 AM
Originally Posted by kilerhamilton
I have performed that process before posting here. Please read the entire thread.
An update. I installed the winner choice strings last year, and in order to get the cams synced and timed I had to put 22 twists in the buss cable, and take several out of the control cable.
What could cause that to be necessary?
May 6th, 2015, 01:13 PM
Be careful with that. 2008 rigging is way past it's prime unless you never shoot the bow. A string/cable that goes at full draw is very dangerous.
Originally Posted by Stephan C
The string/cables are not the correct length. I have not put 22 turns in the last five sets of rigging combined, cables and strings.
Originally Posted by Stephan C
And to Sonny's comment, there is such a thing as a bum limb. After decades of Hoyts, and not even sure how many bows, my Vector 32 came home with a bum set. I tried everything, notta worked. Then on a whim I numbered the limbs, and swapped them right to left, top to bottom. It didn't actually fix anything, but the problem went from high left flyers and groups, to low right.
I ordered a new set of Pro Arcs, plugged them in, the bow shoots great.
To the original question, I have tried to get more than a couple bows rigged with a WB to shoot for others. Some combinations of speed, spine, etc. just will not give you clean flight. My guess is that Whisker Biscuit has sold more mechanical heads than any other rest.