fairly common to have a little difference between sides.
what is important is how the cams point at the nocking point (d-loop)....cam lean. I get the bottom cam (when an arrow is laid on the string side of the cam) to point exactly at the D-loop, the top cam is at the loop or just slightly to one side (depends on the bow).
I'll bet your not having a problem shooting it. If it is performing stop looking for problems. I have found on this site most problems people perceive they have don't exist. In fact I see more people jacking bows around because of something they read or heard when they never had a problem to start with. We are our worst enemy. We tend to over think things------then we wind up with real problems.
Don't that bow have a floating yoke system. You could work the yoke harness untill the cams are straight. Have you placed an arrow down the side of the cams to see if they are straight with the string.
A 1/16" is no big deal but an 1/8" is pushing it. At the end of the day it is all about how the bow shoots. I fought like the dickens to get my Darton DS-3800 to shoot broadheads as well as I could shoot them. In the end I built a harness system with cable spreaders so I could twist the yoke sides to get excellent broadhead flight along with target points. Contrary to Dale B1 some of us CAN shoot much better than a modestly configured bow! Some of us CAN shoot much better than what he considers good enough. Some of us know how to set up a bow for ourselves much better than many folks that work in archery shops or even own archery shops!
You see francis, it is not in the best interest of folks like Dale B1 for folks to better understand and to become very knowledgeable about their archery gear. According to folks like him we should all take our bows to a "pro" shop, hand over our money and accept whatever they hand us!
By the way, the Darton DS-3800 was and is one of my all time favorite bows. the problem I had with Darton is that they did not label the deflection of each limb so that I could make sure they were sequenced correctly.
Looking at the bow from the string side:
1, 4
2, 3
with 1 being the stiffest and 4 the weakest limb.
The yoke system Darton uses could be ideal if they would match the limb sets and have them clearly labeled like every other manufacturer. I "heard" they were now doing this but I have not seen the new labeled limbs. On the new shoot through cable bows it is not as necessary to have the limbs properly labeled and matched because you can twist the cables to get balanced limb deflection for perfect arrow flight.
Thanks for the reply, just trying to learn more about the equipment, I wish Darton had more supporting documentation online so you would have to be guessing around with this stuff. Included info I would like to see is clear information on where to press the bow and also letter and number references for different versions of draw length and draw stop modules, Years ago I remember Darton being much better with this.
I don't have any numbers on my limbs and it is a new 3714, unless the numbers are hidden under the pockets.
Is having varying limb stiffness on a split limb bow something that is common with most bow combines or is that something that is more specific to what Darton is doing?
As a side note: What do you do for checking tiller? After adjusting poundage on bows I had in the past I would check tiller to make sure things were equal.
Darton doesn't mention how or where to do this, they say to make sure tiller is equal by backing the limb adjustment bolts out the same amount? I tried measuring like I normally do but the split yoke pieces really get in the way of doing it properly, any suggestions?
i think we've needed dale b1's reply for a long time and i feel it's right on the money . rather than enjoying archery we seem to keep looking for problems to fix . i don't do that much with equipment but sure beat myself to death over my technique or rather the lack of it . . .peace
I own a DS-3800 which is similar in the floating yoke Dept - and Dale is flat out wrong (he tends to be abrasive - it's an addiction for him), and Kstigall is correct.
As far as those saying you can work the floating yoke spreader some to cause it to remove some of the lean, that may help but I doubt it.
Darton should have set the bow up when they assembled it so that your arrows flying straight at center shot. But nothing is perfect.
My bow shoots a pretty good bare shaft close to centershot, but not exactly at center shot. And I was always afraid of what I would have to do if some un-equal limb deflection did occur. About the only thing you can do is swap right/left, top, bottom limbs to see if it helps.
But before doing any of that, I would see if it can be bareshaft tuned (or paper tuned - I prefer bareshaft tuning) first. If it bareshaft tunes, then you are ok, and just go shoot your bow.
If it doesn't bareshaft tune, I'd take it back to the dealer and demand they fix it.
If the bow doesn't have yokes and the cam lean is really bad and affecting your ability go achieve good arrow flight then you should pursue this issue, if the bow is shooting in your opinion awesome arrow flight then leave it along.
I just did a search and my blockers at school aren't letting me on their site but the dartons I did see in images showed split limbs, if this is the case then you can swap them around and find the weaker ones and this will change the cam lean by arranging them differently.
Go look at a pic of a DS-3714. It has yokes, with a balancing spreader, making it so you can't yoke tune. And he said it was new, so dealer should take care of it.
i have this bow along with a 3800 & a 3500 the 3714 i took out of the box slapped on a qad hdx set nock point tied a d-loop put in peep 4 shots thru paper perfect bullet holes. screwed on my G5 montecs same poi as field points as far as i care to shoot at a live animal. never had problem the first with a darton bow this is why they are the only bows that goes in the woods with me come hunting season.
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