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Thread: Cutting Carbon Arrow Shafts???

  1. #1
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    Question Cutting Carbon Arrow Shafts???

    It has been asked before but I am wondering just how fast a arrow saw will need to be to cut carbon arrow shafts???

    I have an Apple Arrow Saw but it is the old one that is slow I think 5000 rpm for aluminum.They have another one that is 8000 that is recommended for carbons since I made the switch to carbons this year I am wanting to build my carbon arrows I have with aluminum but would like to build carbons after hunting is over.



    How fast does a saw have to be to cut carbons? Will my 5000 rpm do the job or do I need at least 8000 rpms to do it correct / right? I have thought about buying just the motor and replace it but not sure it will work plus the newer ones have a dust collection attachment to hook a vaccum to it to keep the fibers from getting into your lungs when cutting carbons??? So my saw won't work with it... What can you guys tell me about rpms for cutting carbons how fast does it need to be??? ETC...

    Thanks,
    LFM
    Loyal Oneida AF/ LFM Shooter since 1995, Easton XX75 2514, Magnus Stinger 125 two blades, Pollington Pro Grip Release,


  2. #2

    5000 rpm or 8000 rpm?

    Both speeds will work. Using the largest blade and the faster motor will give a smoother cut. Just remember to score the arrow shaft lightly by letting the shaft slip so you get a shallow cut around the shaft. Once you have a shallow cut around the shaft, move the shaft closer and closer to the spinning blade to completely cut through the shaft.

    Then get a G5 Arrow Squaring Device (ASD). This will make sure that the cut is square (perpendicular to the shaft long axis). No worries. Your arrow saw will work just fine.

    Yes, carbon dust is a bad thing. Wear a dust mask and have a shop vacuum running with the nozzle duct taped to the work table next to the arrow saw.

  3. #3
    I know this is not politically correct but I use a fine tooth hack saw blade and a jig to hold the arrow so that I can rotate the arrow and gently cut through the arrow this way. Then a little sand paper on the end and glue in the insert. This takes a long time so I only do my own arrows. My guess is a slow feed into the slower rpm saw should work great. As far as collecting the dust, all the shop vac's that I have used would not filter something this fine out of the air. If you are cutting your own arrows I would try to do it outside with a fan or the wind blowing to get the dust away. I think that a lot of large scale carbon cutting is done with a water jet and this helps to get rid of the dust. I use the outside technique when flint knapping to get the silicone dust away from me.

  4. #4
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    Arrow

    Thanks but why is it touted that it is required to use a saw that is minimum of 8000 to cut carbons. That is all I have read or heard about since carbons have gain a larger market with many more manufacturers. They state that the 8000 rpm cuts it faster, cleaner and less heat. Even when I have contacted Apple Saw they suggest it also??? I have never use an arrow square before my Apple Saw seems to do a good job of squaring it up but I don't build but maybe 2 dozen arrows a year till now I bought my Gold Tips built with my customized requirements of 3 Wht 4 inch Feathers cut to length and inserts glued in...

    I could have them shafts cut to length where I buy them but then again I like to build them complete...myself...

    Thanks guys for the input...

    LFM
    Loyal Oneida AF/ LFM Shooter since 1995, Easton XX75 2514, Magnus Stinger 125 two blades, Pollington Pro Grip Release,

  5. #5
    The real cutting speed of a saw is tangential speed and not just RPM.

    So, the larger the disk, the higher the tangential speed for a given RPM. I use a Dremel, a 1.25" disk at some 15,000 RPM.
    A larger disk could be used at lower speed.
    Unbelievable! every time I shoot, the X moves!

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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by LFM
    I have never use an arrow square before my Apple Saw seems to do a good job of squaring it up but I don't build but maybe 2 dozen arrows a year till now

    The G5 arrow squaring device is particularly useful for HIT inserts where you need to make sure that you have a square edge. Regular inserts hide any imperfections.
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  7. #7
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    Graphite shafts

    Okay, I did some tinkering last night. I have done a ton of work on golf clubs and dealing with graphite shafts. So I figured I would use the same saw and blade that I have used for my golf shafts to cut a arrow shaft. I used a 10 miter saw, with a abrassive metal cut off blade(Home Depot). It seemed to work perfect. Now I will say I have always practiced while doing golf shafts taping right at the point of the cut it assure's that you will not have splitting of the graphite fibers. So anyhow tried the same method last night on some arrows I had laying around and it worked great. Just a thought.
    Any bow that works in my treestand

  8. #8
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    Arrow

    Well thanks but here is my delimma, I purchased some arrows and had them complete and their website does not take the "special instructions and have it go with an order...So the arrows have feathers and everything complete and sent out but most shops have a standard distance they use from the nock to the rear of the feather and being I want them to move the 4 inch feathers back a 1/4 inch so I could try out a Whisker Biscuit Rest but because of the feathjer being that far ahead it is into the Biscuit so on the draw I have the noise of the feathers going in the backwards direction I need to trim off 1/4 to 5/16 to get the feather out of the biscuit but with the feathers on the arrows I was hoping to use a saw that would not fold them over or crush them when cutting them that little bit off. I have seen a Dremel Tool but don't have a jig to square them up to cut them one time like the arrow saw does...

    Just looking for idea on how I can get this done... Had the overall length 1/4 inch long in case they did not get the special instructions I was looking for...

    Thanks for the Info!!!

    LFM
    Loyal Oneida AF/ LFM Shooter since 1995, Easton XX75 2514, Magnus Stinger 125 two blades, Pollington Pro Grip Release,

  9. #9
    If you want to move the fletching back why not just rip the fletching off and refletch the arrow with the fletching farther to the rear. Also if you are just wanting to try out a rest just remove a small portion of the fletching from the front and shoot the arrow that way. I have done this on several occasions when the front of a feather got damaged and I wanted to make the other two the same length. I was not able to tell any difference in the flight of the arrows when I did this.

  10. #10

    inserts do not hide imperfections with the end of the shaft

    I bought some gold tip arrows and spun some broadheads on a roller with wobble took out the inserts used the asd glued the inserts back in and had a perfect spinning broadhead.Have also done this with easton axis arrows talk about a pefect spinning broadhead.You do need square the end of the shaft even with inserts
    gabe

  11. #11
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    Thanks but I am on a budget and to remove a perfectly good feather just to move it back is no something I would do just to move it back. I think cutting off a 1/4 to 5/16 of an inch is a much simpler and lower cost way to go then you have a perfect arrow with a good feather to test out a new rest. I like to keep it simple and having to refletch arrows would take much more time than trimming then end off of them...

    Thanks just trying to get why a saw has to be so much faster to cut carbons... I guess it is all a marketing thing to get us to buy a new faster motor or saw...

    Thanks guys maybe after hunting is done I will buy a ASD and cut the arrows down...

    LFM
    Loyal Oneida AF/ LFM Shooter since 1995, Easton XX75 2514, Magnus Stinger 125 two blades, Pollington Pro Grip Release,

  12. #12

    RE Cutting Carbon shafts....

    LFM,

    Like some other posting suggested I always cut my own shafts with a fine tooth hacksaw and nice easy pressure. Sand off the edges with fine emery paper and you are all set.ps cut them outside due to dust...
    I believe the hype about fast saws etc are either meant for commercial useage( ie heaps of arrows ) or simply to sell specialised saws in this day and age when more and more archers are using carbons arrows. If there's a quick buck to make soemone will think of it....

  13. #13

    arrow saw

    you can get an arrow saw through harbour freight tools they have a web site 20-30 dollars high rpm all you need is an abrasive disk that costs about 2-3 dollars although the one supplied with the saw will cut a few for you until it gets dull.I have cut dozens of arrows on mine.
    gabe

  14. #14
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    I just use a dremel and a thin cut off wheel.
    Certified ==> BSA Archery RangeMaster

  15. #15
    If you follow the link below, you can build your own arrow cut-off saw.
    http://www.deerslayer.freewebspace.com/hbarrowsaw.html

    I got the idea from this site and made my own version of it.
    The things I changed were the mounting of the tool and I made the backstop slide in a rail.



    I can make some more, detailed pictures, if you like.
    Last edited by OldM@n; December 1st, 2005 at 05:17 AM.

  16. #16
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    arrow saw

    I have no problems cutting GT carbon shafts with my Apple A1 saw.
    Just take the time to do it right and 5000rpm will work.
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  17. #17
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    Carbon Arrow Cutting...

    I have been using my mechanical metal tubing cutter with no problems. No dust either. Smooth, square cuts. Just need to only crank the cutter down a little at a time and not try to horse it along. Works Great!!! And cheap!!

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