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Thread: adjusting tiller?

  1. #1

    adjusting tiller?

    on a game master? wouldn't that just lead to more slap in the limb pocket? would it really make a difference to take a few turns out of my top limb bolt when shooting three fingers under? curious as to your guys' thoughts on this.



  2. #2
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    Hello 3.01,

    3.01>>on a game master? wouldn't that just lead to more slap in the limb pocket? would it really make a difference to take a few turns out of my top limb bolt when shooting three fingers under? curious as to your guys' thoughts on this.<<

    1st. I do not own a gamemaster. We will start from there.

    Tiller does make a difference in the way the arrow is casted, in the way a arrow can be tuned to the bow, and in the way the bow "feels" in the had at draw.

    Now, with that said...I person has to have quite a bit of skill to notice these differences... eventhough they may be subtle, they are there... and make the difference between winning and losing.

    Now about 3 under vs split... I shoot both ways... equally well. If a bow manufacturer says they will not warrent their bow if shot 3 under... don't buy it...

    There is only a 1 finger difference between the two methods. One fingerwidth. Off the shelf, you may notice a little difference. But think about a bow with a "Plunger" or "Flipper" installed. Both of these bows have something in common, the Arrow is NOT on the shelf anymoe, and if you get right down to it, those devices are about 1 fingerwidth or so *above* the riser.

    Thus, what I am saying, is Split fingers off the riser, is basically the same thing as 3 fingeres below and shooting off a rest of some kind. (If you move your arrow 1/2 off the shelf, you basically have to move your nock approximately 1/2 inch higher to keep it somewhat in tune. If you don't, you have a Nock low situation on your hands.


    3 under/ split... Adjust the bow to where it groups the best veritcally... Whether it is 3 under or split. You may find that there is such little difference for you, that it is not worth it. But be aware...Tiller plays a important part on accuracy, and too much tiller, one way or another, will affect the accuracy of your bow. Your bow may be most accurate with a positive 1/8" tiller, and someone else may be more accurate with a - 1/8" tiller. While I may be right at zero.

    Dwayne
    Barebow attitude: I sure hope I hit that bullseye!
    Compound attitude:I sure hope I dont miss that bullseye!
    Archers Attitude:I sure hope I can help this guy hit the bullseye.
    If shooting a Doe is pointless, Is the shooting of a Buck a way of racking up points?

  3. #3
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    i wouldn't suggest it. if you reread the directions that came with the bow it says "DO NOT ATTEMPT TO STRING OR SHOOT THE BOW WITH THE LIMB BOLT BACKED OFF FROM THE SNUG". I hope that clears things up a little.

  4. #4
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    A few thoughts; the GameMaster appears to require both limb bolts to be tightened and it would probably be a mistake to do otherwise. If you can't live with the tiller, I'd send the limbset back to the factory. Otherwise, shimming one limb is always possible. If you really want to play with tiller with a bow with fixed limbs, the proper way would be to trim the edges of one limb until the bow came into the tiller you desire. It may be more fun to simply purhase a bow with international limbs fittings that has adjustable tiller.

    I've played with tiller on a number of 68 to 70" FITA recurves and came to the conclusion that even tiller worked well for me with both split and three-under methods.

  5. #5
    my thoughts exactly..thankyou guys...


    and dwayne.....those were my reasons behind questioning the split vs. 3 under tiller ideas.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    3.01 -

    The Gamemaster has no provision for tiller adjustment, unless you start playing with shims.

    Tiller adjustment "may" change the feel of the bow, but has little if any (read - no) effect on accuracy or group size. Not my words, but Mr. Hoyts. Typically Hoyt ORs are tillered from the factory to be 1/8" - 1/4" lower limb positive, meaning the lower limb is turned out (given more reflex) than the upper. Hoyt was able to show that reversing the tiller, as much as 3/8" upper limb positive, still allowed the bow to shoot as accurately as with the factory default.

    The Hoyt manuals suggest that the tiller can can an affect on whether the bow seem to lift or sink during the draw. As barebow shooters, we probably couldn't notice that if we tried too.

    Short answer, screw the damn bolts down and don't worry about it.

    Viper1 out.

  7. #7

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    "Short answer, screw the damn bolts down and don't worry about it."

    I love this board.

  9. #9
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    Hello Feral,

    FD>>"Short answer, screw the damn bolts down and don't worry about it."

    I love this board<<

    ROFL!...Yes... in short answer... But gosh.. think of all the things you have read about now...You would think we are all Novel writers eh??

    Dwayne
    Barebow attitude: I sure hope I hit that bullseye!
    Compound attitude:I sure hope I dont miss that bullseye!
    Archers Attitude:I sure hope I can help this guy hit the bullseye.
    If shooting a Doe is pointless, Is the shooting of a Buck a way of racking up points?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Wichita, ks
    Posts
    6,940
    Hello 3.01,

    3>>and dwayne.....those were my reasons behind questioning the split vs. 3 under tiller ideas.<<

    I know... and that is why I went into detail. This question comes up at Joad, and other places at times.

    That finger width is not enough to make any difference. Yet I have heard of some Bow manufacturers say they will not warrent their bows if shot 3 under. I say bullhocky...

    When I was shooting competition, Tiller made a difference for me when I started shooting in the 270's. Before that, the only difference I could tell (which was subtle, and took a more than average change) was on drawing. Having the upper limb work harder, made my bowhand and arm a little "lighter". Having my lower limb work harder, made my bowarm and hand a little heavier. I played around, and found (like Viper said) that you can adjust the tiller to positive or negative, and the bow will shoot just fine. But for me, I had to move my nock position a couple of turns up or down to compensate for the differences in Tiller.

    We had the national Champ right here in Wi****a. His name was Ron, and his Wife name was Maggie. He had to set his tiller every time, or he would not score in the 280's... He ALWAYS scored in the 280's when I shot with him. Just an amazing archer. I wish I knew where he went... he was in the armed forces. I haven't seen him for 5 or so years now. I seemed to remember he shot a Conquest too...Or maybe a Gold Medalist.

    He also used to shoot 2613's? before they ruled them illegal, and now, the largest legal shaft is a 2315. (If I remember correctly, some 2315's will not work...but I can't remember... been too many years <g>). I shoot for fun now, and pass on the fun to everyone I can.

    Dwayne
    Barebow attitude: I sure hope I hit that bullseye!
    Compound attitude:I sure hope I dont miss that bullseye!
    Archers Attitude:I sure hope I can help this guy hit the bullseye.
    If shooting a Doe is pointless, Is the shooting of a Buck a way of racking up points?

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