April 30th, 2012, 04:51 PM
shec6135 is correct however for the longer shots like 50 yards or greater leveling the bow will come in to play. also the third axis is great for those up and down hill shots.
nuts&bolts well done could not have said it better
May 14th, 2012, 10:22 AM
I know, this is an old thread, but it's sticky-ed so I feel it's fair game. If one sets the first axis first and establishes that the sight body is plumb (as is the string/riser at draw); then set second axis with the scope bubble; can't the third axis simply be set with a machinist square with the bow at brace? It seems to me that IF the first axis is true and second axis is true, the third axis is simply such that the scope housing is normal to the sight bar. Am I missing something?
May 14th, 2012, 11:01 PM
When you hold the bow at full draw the bows riser wants to twist some. How much is dependent on bow design, bow hand placement, the direction and hard you are pulling, etc. Could be a little, could be a lot. Shooting level you compensate for this by moving your sight pin left/right to adjust POI and your bubble stays level with the riser. When you are sighted in the more twist you have at full draw, the further your sight pin will be from the center of your arrow when you line up the arrow and the string looking from behind the bow. So if your bow is twisting when you are at full draw and your sight housing is 90 degrees to that, when you aim up/down your bubble will lie to you and cause you to cant the bow more and more the further away you get from horizontal to keep your bubble centered. This is because the sight is set 90 degrees to your bow riser which is now not pointing exactly at your target (that little twist). You have to adjust the angle of the sight housing to match the twist (if any) that occurs with your bow and shooting technique at full draw when you aim up or down.
May 14th, 2012, 11:43 PM
Ya, I see your point. But, how much twist around the vertical axis exists on a bow at full draw? I actually have no idea. Apparently enough to warrant a 3rd axis adjustment, I guess.
May 15th, 2012, 12:05 AM
Hamskea sells an 'easy third axis level' kit for $54.95
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February 6th, 2013, 10:59 AM
Third axis is important when shooting long distances, example; 80 yards. The target may be level but you are raising the bow up. I really don't believe any tool will set this axis for you. Any bow with a cableguard even flexible guards will affect how the bow turns in your hand. Some bows have a lot of torque or twist and some minimize this very well. You have to shoot the bow and adjust the third axis thru trial and error. Typically right hand shooters will shoot to the left. So turning the sight towards the shooter will align the level with the bow. As your long shots start to move to the right, your shorter shots will move left. So after adjusting the level, shoot a 20 yard level shot adjust your windage and then shoot 80 yards. You need your bow to shoot down the center at short distances and long distances. Or 20 yards uphill and 20 yards downhill need to shoot the same.
February 18th, 2013, 10:23 PM
I shoot for Gold Tip and have had great talks with manager Tim Gillingham about the Hamskea 3rd Axis level. You will definitely want one of these to level your axis. Essentially you need to.correlate all axis' together to have a properly tuned shot on any incline/decline and maintain level throughout. Choose a level vertically reference line and at full draw +&- 30° value sight through your housing. Preferably w/o a lens for time being. Before this 1st & 2nd axis must be trued up. With the alignment pin threaded in adjust until housing is level and pin is lined up with vertical reference. Reference must be 90° to a level floor. This leveling method will eliminate left/right impacts at long distance and incline/declines.
Originally Posted by LiteSpeed1
November 29th, 2013, 01:00 PM
Originally Posted by nuts&bolts
Great can you do it on a bow vise and just tip bow 45. Forwards or back words?
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November 29th, 2013, 06:50 PM
you need to account for riser flex. if you have a bow that torques and you do 3rd axis on a vice it will be off on bow. It wouldnt hurt to square it up on a vice to start and can double check on the bow and adjust accordingly, but on the bow is the way to get it done and make sure its 10)% accurate
Originally Posted by eskimoohunt
February 17th, 2014, 05:26 PM
Is this a good way to set the 3rd axis?
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February 25th, 2014, 01:46 PM
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July 22nd, 2014, 11:39 PM
November 29th, 2014, 12:30 PM
My question would have to be, does broad-head tuning your bow affect the third axis? If your bow is paper-tuned, and your center-shot is lined up perfectly, and then you broad-head tune your bow which changes these thing would that not affect the alignment of sight to arrow? Maybe i'm wrong in my thinking, and please correct me if I am, but shouldn't your third axis be arrow-to-sight instead of sight-to-riser?
February 20th, 2015, 02:27 PM
bumping this up as I just found this on a search..... good vid.
Originally Posted by SierraMtns
I will try this tonight when I get home.
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April 19th, 2015, 01:36 AM
Check out "Easy Axis" by Poor Boy Archery Products.
I use to set up my scope axes by using a small carpenters level and a makeshift plum bob before I designed "Easy Axis" three axis archery alignment tool. It checks all three sight axes at static position (not drawn) without the need for any addition tools such as a bow vise. There has been major discussions about what is the best method of setting the 3rd axis. Should it be set at full draw or should it be set at static position. Regardless of which method you use, you might want to find a tool that you could carry with you in your shooting stool on the range so just in case your bow gets knocked over so you can verify that the axes are still aligned. Nobody ever gets their bow knocked over. Right?
A note of caution: If you use a bow vise to set up the axes on your scope, be sure that the bow vise was leveled during installation. I stopped in to numerous bow shops when I was out marketing "Easy Axis" and more than 50% of the bow shops that I stopped at never leveled their bow vises. If the bow vise isn't leveled, when you rotate the bow vise to set the 3rd axis, the alignment will be off by however much the bow vise is off.
No matter what you read, you need to use the method you feel gives you the best results. Just remember, the proof of any method is in the size and position of the groups you shoot and the score on your score card.
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