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Thread: Third Axis

  1. #51
    shec6135 is correct however for the longer shots like 50 yards or greater leveling the bow will come in to play. also the third axis is great for those up and down hill shots.

    nuts&bolts well done could not have said it better

  2. #52
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    I know, this is an old thread, but it's sticky-ed so I feel it's fair game. If one sets the first axis first and establishes that the sight body is plumb (as is the string/riser at draw); then set second axis with the scope bubble; can't the third axis simply be set with a machinist square with the bow at brace? It seems to me that IF the first axis is true and second axis is true, the third axis is simply such that the scope housing is normal to the sight bar. Am I missing something?

  3. #53
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    When you hold the bow at full draw the bows riser wants to twist some. How much is dependent on bow design, bow hand placement, the direction and hard you are pulling, etc. Could be a little, could be a lot. Shooting level you compensate for this by moving your sight pin left/right to adjust POI and your bubble stays level with the riser. When you are sighted in the more twist you have at full draw, the further your sight pin will be from the center of your arrow when you line up the arrow and the string looking from behind the bow. So if your bow is twisting when you are at full draw and your sight housing is 90 degrees to that, when you aim up/down your bubble will lie to you and cause you to cant the bow more and more the further away you get from horizontal to keep your bubble centered. This is because the sight is set 90 degrees to your bow riser which is now not pointing exactly at your target (that little twist). You have to adjust the angle of the sight housing to match the twist (if any) that occurs with your bow and shooting technique at full draw when you aim up or down.

  4. #54
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    Ya, I see your point. But, how much twist around the vertical axis exists on a bow at full draw? I actually have no idea. Apparently enough to warrant a 3rd axis adjustment, I guess.

  5. #55
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    Hamskea sells an 'easy third axis level' kit for $54.95
    2012 HOYT rampage XT

    Cobra sight - WB rest - Fuse Flexblade dampener - Apex quiver - Easton Bloodline arrows - Scott release

  6. #56
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    Third axis is important when shooting long distances, example; 80 yards. The target may be level but you are raising the bow up. I really don't believe any tool will set this axis for you. Any bow with a cableguard even flexible guards will affect how the bow turns in your hand. Some bows have a lot of torque or twist and some minimize this very well. You have to shoot the bow and adjust the third axis thru trial and error. Typically right hand shooters will shoot to the left. So turning the sight towards the shooter will align the level with the bow. As your long shots start to move to the right, your shorter shots will move left. So after adjusting the level, shoot a 20 yard level shot adjust your windage and then shoot 80 yards. You need your bow to shoot down the center at short distances and long distances. Or 20 yards uphill and 20 yards downhill need to shoot the same.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiteSpeed1 View Post
    Can someone please explain third axis tuning?
    I shoot for Gold Tip and have had great talks with manager Tim Gillingham about the Hamskea 3rd Axis level. You will definitely want one of these to level your axis. Essentially you need to.correlate all axis' together to have a properly tuned shot on any incline/decline and maintain level throughout. Choose a level vertically reference line and at full draw +&- 30° value sight through your housing. Preferably w/o a lens for time being. Before this 1st & 2nd axis must be trued up. With the alignment pin threaded in adjust until housing is level and pin is lined up with vertical reference. Reference must be 90° to a level floor. This leveling method will eliminate left/right impacts at long distance and incline/declines.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuts&bolts View Post
    LiteSpeed1:

    2ND AXIS

    2nd axis on your sight is basically making sure the bubble level
    on your sight reads level when the bow is vertical.

    This presumes that your string is vertical when the bow is also vertical.
    You essentially figure a way to hold your bow vertical (use a bow vise),
    and then check to see that your bubble level in the sight is also reading vertical.

    If not, then adjust the bubble level with the 2nd axis adjustment,
    to make the bubble level on your sight read level, when the bow and bowstring are vertical.

    3RD AXIS

    Ok, so now we understand what 2nd axis is on your sight.

    So, what is 3rd axis?

    Remember your sight ring is on a threaded rod?

    Well, what if the entire sight ring was mounted on a door hinge?

    Yup. What if the entire sight ring could swing like a door?
    You could swing the door towards you or away from you.

    Well, let's say we swing the door towards you 45 degrees.
    The bubble level still reads level, i.e., the threaded rod is still horizontal.

    You know what will happen on a steep uphill shot?
    Even if you aim uphill, and your bow is not tilted left or right,
    the bubble level will lie to you and force you to tilt your bow.

    Try this with a 24-inch level. Hold the level in your hand so that it is still horizontal, but the angle between the level and your arm is 45 degrees, as if you swung a door towards you. Raise your arm towards the ceiling.
    The bubble level will not stay in the middle.

    Adjust the third axis on your sight is the same as adjust the door swing so that it is 90 degrees.

    HOW TO ADJUST 3RD AXIS



    3rd axis will affect uphill shots (NFAA field rounds) or downhill shots (from a treestand).

    Imagine that your sight ring is a door. If you bump your sight ring into a tree, the sight ring may bend towards you like swinging a door closer to your face. Let's say the sight ring "door" opened towards you 45-degrees. The bubble still reads level when you hold the riser straight up and down.

    Now, hang a weighted string from the ceiling.
    Kneel down on your knees, load an arrow in a safe spot, come to full draw and anchor.
    Line up the weighted string with the left edge of the riser and your limbs.

    Take a look at the bubble.
    The riser and limbs are vertical because you are lined up with the weighted string.
    If the sight ring threaded rod is bent towards you or away from you,
    the bubble will not read level even though you are not canting the bow.

    Adjusting the 3rd axis of a bow restores the sight ring door swing
    back to 90 degrees, perpendicular to the sight frame.
    The best way to check is kneeling down on your knees,
    aiming up at a weighted string hanging from the ceiling.

    If your sight has 3rd axis adjustment, then adjust away.

    If you sight does not have 3rd axis adjustment,
    you will need to use shims to adjust the entire sight or just the sight ring.

    Great can you do it on a bow vise and just tip bow 45. Forwards or back words?
    Mathews ChillR, Limb driver rest, BStinger, Sword, black eagle arrows
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  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimoohunt View Post
    Great can you do it on a bow vise and just tip bow 45. Forwards or back words?
    you need to account for riser flex. if you have a bow that torques and you do 3rd axis on a vice it will be off on bow. It wouldnt hurt to square it up on a vice to start and can double check on the bow and adjust accordingly, but on the bow is the way to get it done and make sure its 10)% accurate
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  10. #60
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    Is this a good way to set the 3rd axis?

    Hoyt Spyder 30

  11. #61
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  12. #62
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    Bump for a classic



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