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Serving Nockset Tieing and D-Loops

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#1 ·
I was contacted by kenn1320 with a question on serving nocksets and D-loops. This topic has been discussed here before, but I thought I would start a new thread on the subject.

I always use serving nocksets in conjunction with D-loops. I feel this is the best of both worlds. On my hunting bows, I use a serving nockset on top only and a eliminator cushion button under or a small electrical grommet.

My center serving is .022 Brownell Diamondback. I use .026 Brownell Crown serving for my nocksets. In addition to position the arrow's nocking point, nocksets can be use for a number of other things, such as tieing in kisser buttons, rest pull ropes on drop-aways and peep sight slip collars.
 
#9 ·
This is the completed D-loop. Now, may people feel the nockset should be equal is size so the release will be behind the nock. However, in actuality, you are pulling slightly up on the D-loop at full draw. IMO, the release is more behind the nock here than if the nocksets had been equal.

One other note, I use micro-adjustable rests. With a drop-away, I set the nock square to the rest. With a blade rest or non drop-aways, I usually set the nock about 1/8" high. I very rarely move the nocksets once they are tied. If you had to you can try to thread them down or up the center serving, sometimes this works. Normally though, I only make tuning adjustments at the cables or rest for eleveation.
 

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#202 ·
I like to pre-cut some d loop material and burn the ends..
If you cut you d loop material 4 and 1/4 in that will give you a 5/8 in d loop and that's taking into account you can fray the ends to burn them... you can adjust accordingly so for in material would give you 1/2 inch d loop Etc...
Throwing a couple of these in your pack will save trying to figure out where to cut it to get the same length that you spent so much time getting
 
#3 ·
After the first knot is positioned and tightened. I wrap the loose ends around the string and cross and then tighten the next knot opposite to the first. I will do this for 10 times to the lower end of the nockset and then 4 times to the top.
 

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#11 ·
matforme said:
Deezlin,

That is exactly how I do mine and it works great. Nice job on the visual for those who have not tried this yet. Unless something drastic changes in equipment, there is no reason to use another method than you have shown here.
:hail:

thank you Deezlin.
Excellent photo-documentation.

The hemostat is a nice touch.
 
#12 ·
Awesome

Now that is a quality post. This is exactally why I joined this site. I want to learn as much about archery as possible. I get so sick and tired of all the bashing that goes on here sometimes though, it really takes away from what this forum should really be about. Deezlin, that is what I call a good quality thread and an awesome contibution to this site. Thanks!!
 
#2 · (Edited)
In this picture I have already determined the nock position. I have clamped a set of hemostats to the string to hold the position of the nock. I start the nockset by wrapping the serving around the string and crossing like the beginning of a square knot and then tighten.
 

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#5 ·
I remove the hemastats and complete the top serving nockset. I allow about a total of 1/32 to maybe a 1/16 of clearance between the nocksets and the nock. This avoids nock pinch at full draw and does not seem to hurt arruracy.

This is the completed upper and lower nocksets.
 

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#6 ·
D-Loop

I have completed tying in my D-loop. I melt the first ball on the rope and then wax the rope before beginning. I am left handed and if the loop looks backwards too you, it probably is. I do not hold my release tilted too much and I can see little importance as to which is tied which way. But, it is important to tie the knots opposite to each other.
 

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#123 ·
I have completed tying in my D-loop. I melt the first ball on the rope and then wax the rope before beginning.
Ok, this might be a stupid question, but as I'm going to redo my loop this evening using these tied nock sets, why do you wax the loop material before beginning? Won't this make the knots harder to get tight? Is that the point until you get it in the right position?
 
#13 ·
I will use the hemostat trick

You might like to try this. File a groove near the end of the pliers to help get a good lock on the loop.
 

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#17 ·
Deezlin said:
Now, may people feel the nockset should be equal is size so the release will be behind the nock.
Yes, that's what I thought..... I did mine equal in size. I will try more on bottom and less on top next time.
Very good info and photos.
Thanks,
 
#19 ·
Deezlin said:
After the first knot is positioned and tightened. I wrap the loose ends around the string and cross and then tighten the next knot opposite to the first. I will do this for 10 times to the lower end of the nockset and then 4 times to the top.

What's the reasoning behind doing more knots at the bottom vs. the top? This is very similar to how I've been doing mine for a while now...great info...and great post Deezlin.

Ben
 
#21 ·
buckfeverben said:
What's the reasoning behind doing more knots at the bottom vs. the top? This is very similar to how I've been doing mine for a while now...great info...and great post Deezlin.

Ben
Hello Ben:

It changes the center of force
for the d-loop.

The hook on your release will always find the "middle point"
of the d-loop by itself.

If the bottom knot is a little bigger,
it will put the nock of the arrow slightly above the "middle point"
of the d-loop.

This results in a slightly "down" pressure
on the arrow against the arrow rest.

Folks who do the larger
knot on the bottom of the nock
inside a d-loop also feel that it
helps the shooter to apply the pulling force more
directly behind the arrow.

It's how I always do mine, as well.
Deezlin just takes better pictures, than I do.
:D
 
#23 ·
If you put the knots on the same side the D-Loop tends to rotate. This will give you peep alignment problems.
 
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