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Thread: Bowtech draw length adjustment

  1. #1
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    Bowtech draw length adjustment

    On the draw stop on the '06 Bowtech's top cam, what is the adjustment increment for each of the hash marks? I'm interested in playing with my draw length a little bit, like maybe a 1/4" longer. And to what degree will minor changes like this have on let off? Or is it even a concern at that point?

    Thanks,
    Jeff



  2. #2
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    The draw stop wil make more a difference in let off than draw length. You can add a bit longer string loop to lengthen your draw for more comfort.
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  3. #3
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    If you wanted 1/4" longer draw you should get the next longer modules then try a lower let off or put a few twists in the string. You probably can't go much longer with what you have cause you're probably already at 80 % letoff.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by pacman
    On the draw stop on the '06 Bowtech's top cam, what is the adjustment increment for each of the hash marks? I'm interested in playing with my draw length a little bit, like maybe a 1/4" longer. And to what degree will minor changes like this have on let off? Or is it even a concern at that point?

    Thanks,
    Jeff
    Hello Jeff:

    The 2006 Bowtechs come with draw length modules
    in 1/2-inch increments.

    Fine tuning draw length, 1/16th or 1/4-inch,
    is always done by adding or subtracting twists in the bow string.

    (You will need a portable bow press...either bowmaster or ratchet-loc).

    http://www.lancasterarchery.com/shop...ee57b53b3f45b0

    http://www.lancasterarchery.com/shop...ee57b53b3f45b0

    Adjusting the bow fit to a shooter has three components,
    and they are not interchangeable...

    1) bow draw length setting

    2) d-loop length

    3) release neck length



    The bow draw length setting is like a rifle stock.
    The purpose of a custom rifle stock is to set your rifle scope objective lens
    a specific distance from your eye.

    Same for the bow draw length setting.
    As long as the elbow bend in the bow arm is fixed,
    then the bow draw length setting should be selected
    to have the end of shaft come to a point directly under the corner of the mouth.




    The d-loop length works in combination with the
    release neck length to set the release arm
    angle in relation to the upper body.

    If your release has a longer neck length,
    then the d-loop must be shorter to maintain
    your release hand position on the face.

    If your release has a shorter neck length,
    then the d-loop must be longer to maintain
    your release hand position on the face.

    The key is the optimum release hand position
    on the face.

    walks with a gi is correct, that you can adjust the
    fit of the bow to the shooter with a change in d-loop length.

    Adjusting the d-loop length is one way to
    adjust the fit of the bow. What is does,
    is it changes where your release hand anchors on your face,
    which is an important part of fitting a bow to a shooter.



    This picture shows the release arm slightly uphill,
    which implies a shorter d-loop length.




    I have a level release arm, in relation to the arrow.
    My d-loop length is slightly longer.




    The first two pictures are of one of JAVI's students.

    The first picture has the draw shoulder and elbow too high.
    The 2nd picture has the draw shoulder and elbow lower,
    as a result of altered technique and a slightly longer d-loop.

    The 3rd picture is of drtnshtr, who I have worked with some.
    That's his before picture. He has since lengthened his d-loop
    and switched to a different release, with a different neck length,
    and now his shooting has improved dramatically.



    This is Keepemsharp. Very solid form.

    Draw length setting is good, so that the peep sight is the "proper" distance from his shooting eye (good "rifle stock custom length").

    His wrist release to trigger distance is good,
    and in combination with the custom d-loop length,

    these two factors

    dictate the release arm angle.

    When the release arm angle is correct for you,
    then squeezing the back muscle to slide the shoulder blade
    on your release side will help you fire your release
    more consistently, and with much less fatigue,
    and your groups will become much more consistent.
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  5. #5
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    Ok, so moving the draw stop 1/2 a mark on the installed module IS NOT an option?

    I do not have the resourses to tie another d-loop nor do I have a bow press to twist a cable. I would like to continue shooting while I'm here but I also don't want to develop a bad habit by trying to make my body fit the bow. If the draw stop is an option I can use until I get it to a pro shop back home, I'd prefer to do that.

    Thanks to all so far. If there's more, I'm all ears.

  6. #6
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    I'm a lot simpler than everyone else. I do change the dl with the draw stop post. I feel most comfortable shooting just under 28", so I have the 27 1/2" mods on then just adjust the post a bit until it feels right. Caution, you can't move the peg very much from what it is set at for the mod that is on the bow(maybe a 1/2 mark or so).

  7. #7
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    That is exactly what I'm trying to do. My DL is the same, or so I thought. But after tweaking my form a little with advice from nuts and bolts, I've found I need just a hair more DL to bring my elbow down and line things up better.

  8. #8
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    Heck yes.... move the draw stop a little so that you get a hair more let off and a hair more drawlength.

    Just make sure you go in TINY increments and have someone check out the cams to make sure the cable stops aren't touching the cables (the only things that stop 100% lockup). If they touch the cables, your accuracy will get screwed up, if they aren't touching, you might get to 85-90% letoff and get a 1/4" or more of DL.

    I have done mine the same way, as my Tribute fits me a little better at 29-1/4".

    -ZA
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  9. #9
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    I may give it a try just to enable me to develop good shooting form/habits for the short term. But if I've read other threads correctly regarding the binary cams and let off, they are supposed to work most efficiently and correctly at 80%. And with that in mind I'll probably drop by the nearest Bowtech dealer when I get home and have the problem addressed in the MOST correct way. Whether thats changing draw modules, putting twists in the string, or lengthening my d-loop remains to be seen. The pro shop that built her suggested I move the draw stop 1/2 a mark and that anything more would require a mod. change....
    Last edited by pacman; August 30th, 2006 at 06:01 PM.

  10. #10
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    I haven't checked my letoff after I moved the peg, but it is not noticeably higher than 80%. I did check the speed, and it went up 2-3 fps with the small change I made, and my form is much more comfortable now!

  11. #11
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    You can move the draw stop too far and the bow will lock in the full draw position. If that happens it has to be pressed to get it down. I was at the bow shop the other day playing with mine and we got it to far and the bow locked in full draw. Not a good thing but luckily I was at the shop. I would not move the draw stop to the other side of the module where it sticks into the slot of the draw stop. That is what I did and it locked up. The 06 Bowtechs were not supposed to be able to lock up but I can assure you they will.

  12. #12
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    Jeff, PM me with the draw length you want, and an address I can send to. Would mods get to you in a reasonable time? As always, stay safe.

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