September 19th, 2006, 09:29 PM
About to give up on plastic vanes...
Shortly after learning to fletch my own arrows I started using feathers. Last year after hearing so many great things about blazer vanes I ordered some. I fletched up a few arrows and went out to shoot them. I could not get the things to stay on for anything tried several different glues..wraps nothing. So I got rid of them and went back to feathers.
Well my fience's arrows needed fletching and she wanted vanes. So I started researching vanes and ordered some Vanetec and Savage vanes for us. Again for the life of me I can not get these things to stay on.
My feathers have to be scraped off with a knife, but the vanes I can just pull them slightly or bend them and they come off. The glue is sticking to the vane, but it is not sticking to the arrow. I have cleaned the shafts with rubbing alchohol I have tried just about everything I dont know what else to do.
Mathews Switchback XT
September 19th, 2006, 09:33 PM
you may need to "rough up" the arrow a little bit. I only did the area where I was going to fletch and with 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Of course that was before I used wraps. Now I don't do anything except wrap and glue, with spectacular results. I have never had a problem with blazers, wraps, and fletch tite platinum. Seems like a winning combination.
September 19th, 2006, 09:34 PM
maybe ruff up area that the vane sits with fine sandpaper.
September 20th, 2006, 11:15 AM
I have tried using steal wool guess I could try sandpaper. Here is the crazy thing they stuck great to my fience's arrows..lol go figure.
Mathews Switchback XT
September 20th, 2006, 11:23 AM
Rubbing alcohol couldbe the culprit. Regular rubbing alcohol (isoprophyl) has oils in it. Go to the drup store and get 91% or denatured alcohol for cleaning the shafts.
Also, as mentioned, roughing the shaft helps too. I use a piece of Scotchbrite.
PRESERVE, PROTECT, AND DEFEND THE CONSTITUTION OF THE UNITED STATES FROM ALL ENEMIES, FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC
Martin Gold Plus Staff Shooter
UBP Life Member,PSAA Life Member
Hutch~N~Son strings by Bowstring Depot
September 20th, 2006, 11:29 AM
99% isophl alcohol (sp) not regular with aloe . Use acetone to clean the vanes. run with a cotton swab while you have the vain in the clamp until you get some color on the swab. make sure that you put the vane on right after you apply the glue. sometimes it will dry alittle , and form a barrier over the top of the wet glue.
September 20th, 2006, 11:31 AM
I'm with BFISHER on this one. Rubbing alcohol has oil in and that is most likely the reason the vanes are not sticking. Some vane manufacturers instructions tell you in no uncertain terms to not use rubbing alcohol.
Clean the shaft with isopropyl alcohol and the vane if the manufacturer says to. Use a very light amount of glue and you should be complaining about scraping the vanes off next time you have to refletch.
Ben Pearson, Carbofast, Stone Mountain Bowstrings, Alpen Optics, TRU Ball, Specialty Archery Products, VaneTec Vanes
September 20th, 2006, 11:33 AM
Also make sure that you aren't using too much glue. When using the CA glues (super glue).. if you use too much it forms a seal and the glue underneath won't dry for a while. Just use a very fine bead.
Also due to the stiffness of the Blazers.. you can't put too much offset in them.. they don't like to wrap around and arrow... the thinner the shaft.. the less offset you can get away with.
September 20th, 2006, 11:38 AM
Originally Posted by springer01
ok here is what we do for this proble
i like to used wraps on my shaft to keep it clean from glue
i used arizona plastifletch/ hoyt the attach very good
usedsuper glue (gel) loctite dont over glue it will bern white all the vens and shaft anything close to it
5 to 10 sec.
its there for ever . even if you have traspass the target they will be there for you.
try with 2 or 3 and test them control the glue................
September 20th, 2006, 11:56 AM
I just don't understand why so many people are having problems with blazers sticking. I have not tried them on bare shafts, but I have used them on Wraps and you cannot pull them off without ripping the vane or the wrap.
1. Clean the shaft with soapy water and rinse with clean water and let dry.
2. Wrap the arrow with bowmanhunter or arrowwrapsunlimited wraps.
3. I use an AZ EZ-Fletch, so I put my blazers in the EZ Fletch and run a fine line of Loctite Gel on each vane.
4. Put the arrow in the EZ Fletch and close it up and wait 45 seconds to 1 minute.
5. Remove the arrow and put a tiny dap of regular super glue on the leading tip and rear tip of each blazer where it meets the wrap.
That's it, do NOT prep the Blazers in any way.
Crackerized Alien-X 60# 28.5" 306 FPS, Gold Tip Pro 5575, 2" Blazers, Bowmanhunter Wraps, Whisker Biscuit , Lone Wolf Sit & Climb, HHA 5519 XL, Archery Innovations Anchor Sight, 100gr Epic XC3 Broadheads, Posten 10" Woodsman Stab, RedHDCharm Loop and Serving Material,
My biggest fear is that when I'm dead and gone My wife will sell my Archery Equipment for what I told her I paid for it.
September 20th, 2006, 01:41 PM
Thanks for all the replies guys.... and I wasnt thinking it is denatured alcohol I am using not rubbing. I am going to try the superglue and see what happens. And these are not the blazers I am tring to fletch anymore I got rid of those the are 4" savage vanes and 4" vanetec vanes. And I am not prepping the vane at all.
Mathews Switchback XT
September 20th, 2006, 04:38 PM
Supposedly the vanetecs have accelerator on the base, but I see no evidence of it. I have come up with this method that works for me with vanetecs (finally).
I run the shaft under hot water and scrub dry with a clean cloth towel. I avoid paper towels as I've heard they can leave residue. Who knows, I didn't do a chemical analysis.
I place the shaft in the fletcher, and run a magic marker type of super glue accelerator over the shaft where I plan to glue the vane. You can buy this at Walmart in the glue section - near paints in my store. The brand I buy is loctite, it comes with a small super glue bottle - throw that away and buy the blue gel loctite in the squeeze bottle.
Put the vane in the clamp without touching the base - I use a sandwich baggy to hold them.Run the accelerator over the base of the vane. Wave randomly in the air to dry. Run a skinny seam of blue loctite super glue down the vane base. Wave clamp randomly in the air again. Place in fletcher, and put pressure from under the arrow against the vane for a 20 count.
Remove clamp and repeat.
September 20th, 2006, 04:43 PM
Using the sandwich baggie is an excellent idea.
If you touch the shaft with your fingers even once
and/or you grab the vanes with your fingers and touch the base
of the vane even once, it will interfere with the glue.
I have had trouble with feathers and with vanes,
when I mistakenly touched the base of the feathers or vanes
with my fingers.
So, use a latex glove,
or use the sandwich baggie as a temporary glove,
or shake the feathers or vanes out of the bag,
and use a pencil to push the vanes close to the edge of the table,
and then grab the feather or vane with the fletching clamp.
September 20th, 2006, 11:27 PM
What glue are you using?? Blazers require a different glue than feathers. I use Bohning Fletchtite Platinum and I have a hard time cutting them off !!! I clean my bare shafts with Ajax or Dutch Cleanser then wash them down with a Brillo pad and hot water. I sometimes use acetone, no problems either way.
September 20th, 2006, 11:44 PM
use windex to prep shaft I dont any chems never let your hands touch the arrow where the vanes go. There is oil in our hands platinum or any good super type glue works best warm weather or warm room in winter.
September 21st, 2006, 01:41 AM
I am also very surprised. I have never had aproblem with Blazers sticking. I have not had to clean shafts or anything, just strip the old ones off and put new ones on. If it were a new bare shaft than I would clean with 91% iso alch. One thing that an old time pro shop owner tought me was to take a rag and put some of your fletching glue in it and quickly wipe the end of the shaft where you are going to put the vanes on. It cleans it and makes an excellent prep for adhesion. May sound a little strange, but it works great.
September 21st, 2006, 02:26 AM
Isopropyl/Rubbing alcohol is the same thing. 91% is very commonly found at your local Walmart and the such. What you are already using (denatured alcohol) is the right stuff. Usually you can find denatured at any hardware type store.
September 21st, 2006, 03:54 AM
this might be the problem if you havent solved it already from the other posts.steelwool often contains some sort of soap, and that can cause the glue not to stick.
as mentioned earlier in the tread, use alcohol and clean the surface that attaches to the shaft.
Vanes often have leftovers of some type of "grease" that make them come off the cast when they make them and that need to be taken away.
-been there, done that, fletched a dozen of Navigators with FFP:s and after shooting them only a couple of times it was back to clean shafts
September 21st, 2006, 07:08 AM
I don't now what I'm doing right, but I've not had the problem you've had, I just remove the old or damaged blazer wipe off the shaft with a paper towel, and glue the blazers back on. I did try the platinum glue and didn't like it, so switched back to the Beyond Bond Cyanocrylate glue, I know big word but it works great!!
In fact I'm repairing some arrows as I write
Hoyt Carbon Element
September 21st, 2006, 07:19 AM
I use the same glue also but I usually clean the shaft with denatured alcohol. I never clean the Blazers and have had zero problems. That said for myself I always seem to migrate back to feathers for the improved flight
Originally Posted by bowhuntrrl
Maker of the MeanV Maximum String Suppressor
September 21st, 2006, 07:22 AM
Yeap, try this. I have basically stopped using acetone and alcohol for fletching preperation. I had problems with Blazer's bases holding glue. However, I believe this problem has been addressed now. I use VaneTec and have shoot them through a couple of bad targets without any problems.
Originally Posted by bowhuntrrl
Phone Orders 800-437-9145
September 21st, 2006, 11:29 AM
I have used Bohning Fletchtite Platinum and regular Fletchtite to no avail...
I only use the steel wool to clean any excess glue and then spray with the denatured alcohol.
I do not touch the shafts or the vane surface.
I am going to try to use some regular loctite superglue and see what it does. Like I say the problem is the glue not sticking to the shaft it sticks to the vane just not the shaft.
Thanks guys !!!
Mathews Switchback XT
September 21st, 2006, 01:10 PM
For those few fellows who fletch with feathers on aluminum I highly recommend using Bohning Fletching Tape. Adhesion is immediate, no waiting, and it does a very fast, neat job. I can fletch an arrow ready to shoot in less than a minute -- and that includes a dab of Fletch-Tite cement on both ends of each feather to complete the job.
I've never had a feather come off or loosen, yet the arrows are easy to strip clean and a little methyl alcohol on a rag polishes them right up.
Too bad this tape doesn't work well with plastic vanes and/or carbon arrows.
SureLoc Challenger w/ Impact Cosmic DX Scope.
Trophy Taker Spring Steel Rest.
Super-Stix Stabilizer / Easton Platinum Plus Aluminums.
Tru-Fire Hurricane Release.
September 21st, 2006, 01:50 PM
I use the fletching tape on my carbon arrows and feathers with no problems, havent had one come off?
Originally Posted by MikeK
For the Blazers I use wraps and LocTite Gel from Walmart. Never had one come off.
By solocam89 in forum General Archery Discussion
Last Post: May 13th, 2010, 09:12 PM
By jpenno in forum General Archery Discussion
Last Post: February 3rd, 2010, 04:15 PM
By adam330 in forum General Archery Discussion
Last Post: April 7th, 2007, 04:21 PM
By Buckhorn70 in forum Bowhunting and Bowhunter Showcases
Last Post: December 25th, 2006, 10:58 PM
By punisher in forum General Archery Discussion
Last Post: January 5th, 2006, 03:48 PM