March 7th, 2007, 08:34 PM
string jig plans???????
anyone have any plans to build one. I'd like to start making my own strings. and any ideals would be welcomed Thanks todd
March 7th, 2007, 08:47 PM
well, there are 3 main things it needs, sturdy bar, adjustable length, and sturdy post.
Some easy shortcuts, there is a product known as Unistrut sold at large hardware stores, and electronic supply houses etc.
This strut is sturdy enough to tension 200 lbs, and has tons of parts that they sell for use with it such as these spring loaded nuts.
Then the posts, it is possible to build strings on a jig with 2, 3, or 4 posts.
the method changes slightly, and the convenience does as well, the 2 post jig is difficult, and I only would use it on recurve or long bow strings.
the 3 post is like a 4 post, but only one end rotates, then the 4 post jig has 4 posts on both ends.
If you want to be able to do solo cam strings you need ALOT of length in your jig. Just FYI, for dual cams you essentially have a bunch of short segments, but the string on a solo cam is long.
March 7th, 2007, 09:34 PM
Here is a really inexpensive string jig /stretcher I have been using. It builds a great string for under $50 and can be assembled very quickly from parts you can purchase at Menards or Lowes.
Superstrut or Unistrut--1 ten foot section
Close line hooks--2
U-bolt--1 (3/8" coarse thread) (Cut it in half to make the two L-bolts)
L-brackets--2 (I can't remember the exact dimensions, but they are about 4 1/2-5 inches long and high. These are Superstrut or Unistrut components.
2 bolts-- 1/2" x 2" coarse thread (I think these may also be Superstrut or Unistrut parts)
1/2" X 2" wing nuts--2
3/8 inch coarse thread wing nuts--2
Superstrut or Unistrut square nuts--2 (These come in package of 4) You may also find that a 1/2" washer will work great between the spring and and the bolt. You will need two of these although they are not pictured.
5/16" washers--8 (Even though the bolts are 3/8" thread, I found the 5/16 washers made a better fit.
3/8" coarse thread nuts-8
Also pictured are two 5/16" coarse thread nuts that I installed on the ends of the L-bolts that were intended to keep the strands of the string from coming off the jig when I was winding the string. One guy on AT built this jig and used a couple small pieces of 3/8" I.D. plastic tubing instead of the nuts. I think that would be a better idea since it does the same thing with much less labor.
He trains my hands for battle so that my arms can bend a bow of bronze. Ps. 18:34 (NASB)
March 7th, 2007, 10:47 PM
I'll start to build one soon . anyone else have an ideal?
March 8th, 2007, 01:16 AM
March 8th, 2007, 01:44 AM
Originally Posted by SDLAW
March 8th, 2007, 05:07 AM
here are some pictures of my jig that I made
March 8th, 2007, 09:29 AM
in addition to the parts that Automan listed, I recommend that you also get
the Yellowstone Dream Machine Micro Stretcher. It's about $45 and works with the uni-strut. It allows you to put enough tension on your string to do a better job.
I've made my best strings using only this and the techniques that George demonstrates in the video in my signature.
However, Automan's pictures give me a couple of ideas that I will try this weekend.
Three or Four post string jigs are more flexible for different situations, but not necessary.
March 8th, 2007, 12:55 PM
There all great
Thanks all thoose are some cool jigs thanks for the ideals. I think that I'm going to make a combination of them all
March 8th, 2007, 01:00 PM
Automan26, how does your string stretcher work. How much tension or poundage can you get on your strings. I like your design but not sure how you get enough tension on the string.
March 8th, 2007, 01:16 PM
with simple jigs like automans you can clamp them to a table, and then just use a ratchet strap to pull on one end, with the screw loose, and an inline scale.
March 8th, 2007, 01:46 PM
I don't think Automan26's jig counts as a string jig since its not painted blue.
March 8th, 2007, 04:39 PM
March 8th, 2007, 04:44 PM
First Time I caught the monster serving jig
Details on that please ... PM me or post as it looks just about exactly what I have had in my head for a while? ... but no knowlege on the parts I would need
How much of that is fabricated and how much is off the shelf??
Such as the bearing housings..Bearing sizes .. The rod ( drive shaft) with the sguare side ...
Gladly call on my dime if it's easier
March 8th, 2007, 05:31 PM
I first construct the string on the L-hooks and tie off the ends . I loosen the L-hooks and move the tied end to the center of the jig and serve the end loops for each end of the string. A U-Serve serving accessory tool works great to keep the string bundles separated when serving the end loop areas. (You could also separate the string bundles using a short piece of arrow shaft with a nock stuck in each end if you want to save some money.) Next I transfer the string to the close line hooks and twist it up. I use a crescent wrench to tighten the close line hooks to stretch the string. Just loosen the nut on the inside of the brackets and tighten the outside nut with the wrench till you get good tension on the string. I have no real way to measure how much tension I get on the string when stretching it, but I can tighten the string enough that it plucks like a guitar string. Whatever tension I am getting is plenty. I would estimate that I am getting at least 150 pounds. After the string has stretched for several hours, I serve it up. Perhaps there are easier jigs to use, but I only build five or six strings a year and this jig is perfect for that. Using this jig I can build a string that allows for zero peep rotation and that is good enough for me. I actually spend more for a spool of string material than I did for the components to build the entire jig and stretcher.
Originally Posted by mudbone
(Maybe I should invest in a can of blue paint. )
He trains my hands for battle so that my arms can bend a bow of bronze. Ps. 18:34 (NASB)
March 8th, 2007, 07:07 PM
After making 1/2 doz. different string jigs, I find all I need is this, just by twisting the string with the winder, it puts all the tension I need on the string.
March 8th, 2007, 07:41 PM
It isn't really all that heavy but I usually have it screwed down to my work bench. I only have it on the saw horses to paint it (blue of course)
I used 1" all-thread that I had laying around to make the string jig. I turned all the thread off except for about 1.24" to screw into the nuts welded to the cross bars. A regular bolt with the head cut off would work just as well.
As for the server:
The heads are just tubes that have been bored out at each end to take a standard sealed bearing (1/2" bore X @1 1.25" outside)...slight press fit. They are cheap bearings, but I have put 500# of tension on them and they still turn freely. The shaft through the head is a standard 1/2" bolt with a piece of 5/8" rod welded to the bolt head with a slot cut for the string and turned down smooth. This could be easily made from a solid bar if you wanted. The lock nuts just help hold everything on the shaft, but aren't really necessary, although they give you a place to use a socket and speed wrench for adding twists under tension...just loosen the set screws on the top sprocket on one end and twist away.
There are hex sleeves turned down to 3/4" that go through standard tapped base pillow block bearings..regular pillow blocks would work but the unistruts would need to be further apart. The sprockets also clamp to the sleeves so everything slides on the hex shaft as a unit. The sprockets are all the same tooth count, the top with a 1/2" bore and the bottom a 3/4" bore. I used #25chain because I messed up when I ordered the sprockets. #35 chain and sprockets are much more common.
Check out this thread for more pics:
If you need suppliers for parts, try these:
All tolled, not counting the drill and boat winch, I have a little over $200 in materials.
June 29th, 2007, 09:47 PM
Here are some updated pics of how I reworked my jig that is pictures above. I added ACME threads and a disengageable anti rotation device to lock the head but also to be able to twist under tension.
June 30th, 2007, 12:19 AM
...It is time to break out my welder, cutoff saw and Credit Card and get to work..
Excellent Job fellas...I am feeling the blue...
June 30th, 2007, 12:34 AM
Now that is sweet!!
Originally Posted by nuts&bolts
Genesis 27:3 Now therefore take, I pray thee, thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and take me some venison
June 30th, 2007, 01:46 PM
I just made a similar one but even simpler. I used some 3/8 hardened bolts installed upright, an s hook and a 320lb turnbuckle for tension and adjutability.
Originally Posted by automan26
I don't have any workshop space or power tools avalible (all in storage) so I have to keep it simple.
July 25th, 2007, 10:47 PM
No Unistrut at the local Lowes. Menards is twice as far away. May have to take a road trip....
Owner of Pathfinder Arrow Wraps
Athens Archery Factory Shooting Staff
July 25th, 2007, 11:49 PM
Can anyone check out the jig at this link?
I can build a jig like the one's in these links but my question is...
It doesn't really specify a way you would stretch the string as has been talked about here previously. I guess I'm not 100% sure the need to really trying to stretch that thing out more than giving it a few tugs as I have made a string a long time ago and do not recall stretching it more than just keeping good tension on it in a jig much like the one in the links I have here. I mean, will a bow explode on you if you don't stretch the new string. The string will stetch on it's own slowly over time anyway.
July 26th, 2007, 10:05 AM
July 26th, 2007, 10:49 AM
Originally Posted by jasondinsmoore
What you just said would apply to a recurve string.
You must apply the strands of string material with even tension
to get a uniform string bundle.
If you are building a compound string,
then you absolutely must have a way to stretch the string at 200 to 300 lbs of tension, in order to have zero peep rotation.
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