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Aluminum arrows for new Tribute

863 views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  Fury90flier 
#1 ·
Fellas, while waiting for my physical therapist to give me the green-light (drawing arm rotator cuff tendonosis) hopefully by the end of this Feb., I'm trying to figure what aluminum arrows to shoot from my new 50-60 DW Hoyt Tribute. I have a 26.5" DL and shoot 28" arrow. The bow is presently set at 50 lbs. and I hope to get it to 55-58 lbs. by deer season. I've shot carbon for the past several years but, for my own personal reasons, want to go back to aluminum. Can you recommend any size selection; is 2016 a good overall size for my set-up or is there a better choice? Just hunting deer in the Sierra Nevada mountains. I figure on shooting 100-125 gr. points. FWIW, I'm a lefty. I love the bow. Against my PT's caution, I took a few pulls on the bow today and it is so smooth compared to my 2007 58# PSE 3D Mojo. I should have bought this bow earlier. Thanks for your help.
 
#3 ·
FMJ's aren't aluminum, they're A/C.

Doesn't matter RH or LH...that just means which side of the string the tip is pointing on your setup.

Since the shooter influences the shot no one can tell you what WILL be best for you but can just offer what would be a reasonably tuneable arrow. The problem you have is that as you move up in weight you'll be changing the required spine. While a 5# change is workable you're starting to be borderline at an 8# jump...though that can be remedied by changing point weight (start off with 125, end up with 85-100).

For you I'd suggest a .450" deflection with a 125grn point (and maybe a little longer while you're at 50# (just cut as needed for your arrow tune). For a 2016 shaft I'd think that you're a little too soft on the spine for what you want... 2115 would get you closer to .450" for when you're shooting closer to 58#
 
#6 ·
Wound up dropping into the new Dick's Sporting Goods store in town and bought a 6-pack of Easton Fall Stalker 2117 aluminums. They are 31" so I'll have them cut back to 28". They came with nocks and inserts. I have 125-gr. points. Do you think they will work? Are they stiffer/softer than the other sizes mentioned on this thread? They were only $25.
 
#8 ·
Don't cut anything yet...no one can tell you how long to cut. As I said, the reason for this is the shooter influences the shot and it's to such a degree that what works for me can leave you with a crappy tuned arrow. Leave the 125's in, do some bare shaft testing (shoot 2-3 bare shaft vs 3+ fletched) and see how they group...keep changing tip weight until they group with the fletched. Once you get to where you're at the DW you want, pick the broadhead you want, cut as necessary then if needed you cad add weight to the inserts...easy to use 8-32 screws to accomplish this.

I believe the 2117 deflection is closer to .400" deflection so they'll be stiffer than what you already have. You'll have to break down the spine by increasing tip weight. As I said, don't cut them...just add tip weight til they bare shaft group with fletched.

Oh if you can't get bare shaft to group as tight as fletched (regardless of where) then it's a YOU thing...you'll need to work on from (likely grip and hook/release).

Almost forgot...bare shaft is absolutely zero material on the back of the shaft...no residual glue, fletching or tape of any kind-- hence why it's called "bare" shaft.
 
#9 ·
OK, thanks for all the good advice. I haven't had the 2117s cut yet (usually have a pro shop do it as I don't have any tools for cutting or fletching). Just curious, I have a few 225-gr. pts. that I've used on carbon arrows shot out of my 48# longbow. If I used them on a 27/28" 2117 from a 50-55# Tribute, what do you think the arrow would perform like? Sorry, I'm just not that technically informed about this stuff.
 
#10 ·
again, no one can tell you...YOU have to test. Go do a bare shaft test as defined above and see for yourself. Archery is all about results based testing...not too much "This WILL work" for YOU.
 
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