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Thread: shakespeare wonderbow?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    callorado
    Posts
    75

    shakespeare wonderbow?

    being a little new in trad archery, did shakespeare put out a decent bow or should i stay away from it.there is one for sale here locally for 50 bucks.im almost thinking of picking it up just to try it out to see how the old wonderbow feels.
    any experience with these



  2. #2

    Shakespear WonderBow

    If it's on E-Bay it won't stay at $50 for long...they go for between $150-$250 depending on condition. Sweet bows, recurved laminated fiberglass. If you find them for $50 don't know why it would be so cheap otherwise, if you don't want it let me know who and where ad I'll take. Worse case, I'll make a $100 or so from it. What state are you in?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    2,119
    In 1967,the first bow I ever owned was a Shakespear longbow.

    I think all the Shakespears of that time were good shooting bows.

    Very collectable an I'd grab it as long as it was straight an sound.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, Florida
    Posts
    767
    I have a 1969 Model Shakespear Wonderbow, Cascade. It is a GREAT bow. I shoot it almost everyday. I got lucky, mine was given to me by a member of our local fishing forum. If you can get it for $50.00, JUMP ON IT.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    776
    I have a 30# Ocala which has shot well and have not yet set up a very, very nice Super Necedah that I'm looking forward to shooting.

    Tim

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    178
    Shakespeare made some very nice bows, equal to any made. I have and use a 1967 Necedah that is a great shooting bow. All of them were called "Wonderbow"....but they also has a model name.....most named after National Forests like Necedah, Ocala, Custer, etc. I also have a RH 400 from 1959, a semi-recurve (hybrid nowadays) that shoots great as well.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    178
    Here is Necedah:




    Here is RH 400:


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Detroit, Michigan
    Posts
    927
    I have a Shakespeare Wonderbow X-24 60" 30 Lb with the original quiver, 5 arrows with fieldtips, leather wrist guard and leather finger release in very good condition. I would like to sell it to someone who would enjoy it. I am left handed and the bow is right handed. Whats it worth? I won't give it away but I will sell it for what it is worth.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    south eastern Mass.
    Posts
    7,101
    I had a Manitou(?) that although it stacked a bit at 30", it shot really well for me.
    motorcitykid, they don't go for alot of bucks. $100, give or take a few, is in the ballpark with all that you have. You could go the Ebay route and know for sure, but it is'nt worth the trouble IMO. If you can do pics it would help, post it in the classifieds in the traditional section here.

  10. #10
    I would like to know the age and value of my Shakespeare Wonderbow Yukon Model x24. It is marked as 40#, 60", E71866H.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Spring Grove,Pa
    Posts
    3,290
    I have 2 Shakespeare's...a Sierra(gf's bow)and a Super Necedah. Paid $61 for the Super on ebay and she's a fantastic shooter...really pretty too

  12. #12
    I have just been given a shakespeare wonderbow #50 - 60" with the name the custer model X22. My brother-in-law got it a yard sale for $5. He let me have it because he only shoots a compound or a crossbow now. I have been shooting bows since 1988. My first was a Darton model 50 at #45 pds. I now have a Darton renedage 1994 at #60 pds. I would like to start using the X22 to shoot and hunt with too. Any advice on string, arrows, and how to get it checked to make sure it is safe to use?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    LI. NY
    Posts
    15,355
    Hawk -

    Basic stuff. Check the glue joints for any sign of separation, especially around the limb tips or any signs of glass splintering. Limbs twists usually aren't an issue as most can be readily repaired. If you're not comfy inspecting the bow have some one who is do it for you. That may be easier said than done depending where you live.

    The bow "should" take a 56", 14 strand DACRON string and arrows will depend on your draw length the the tip weight you plan on using. For arrows in the 29" range with 125 gr heads, 1916s are a safe start. Odds are the arrows you've been using will get you going.

    Viper1 out.
    “Simple and innocent, however, as it (the bow) appears, and capable as it is of being a trusty friend and ally, a bow is at the same time a watchful enemy, ready to take advantage of the smallest slight.”

  14. #14
    Here is the rest of the skinny on the bow. I rechecked the lower limb. It says "The Custer model X22 50- M61052G 62". Sorry for the wrong info above. I have a 31 inch draw. I went to carbon arrows with my compound. And have some Easton XX75 2314 superlites left over. Would these work? They have straight plastic vanes 4-1/2" will these work? I live in Arkansas now. Spent 21 yrs in the USMC in NC>

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    LI. NY
    Posts
    15,355
    Hawk -

    Seriously doubt that that bow will be comfy at 31" (past its stack point), but with wood bows, you won't know until you try it. W/O stacking it will be about 58# at 31", /W stacking could be a lot more. If the bow starts to feel like you're hitting a brick wall before you reach anchor - suggest you stop there and hang it up.

    2314 have a static spine of .391", or about 55# for a 32" arrow (guesstimates), so you just might get away way them. Give it a shot - nothing to loose. Vanes probably ain't your best bet, but like I said...

    Viper1 out.
    “Simple and innocent, however, as it (the bow) appears, and capable as it is of being a trusty friend and ally, a bow is at the same time a watchful enemy, ready to take advantage of the smallest slight.”

  16. #16
    Thank you very much for the info. I have been wanting to get into traditional archery for some time now. I would like to shoot a recurve or long bow.

  17. #17
    Would straight vanes/feathers be best? Or would helifix to the left or right? What is the different? What about the length of the vanes/feathers? Does it make a different depending on which hand you shoot with? Mine being RH. I really do not know much about traditional at all. Is there anyone out there who lives in Arkansas close to Little Rock? Or am I on my own trying to get answers?

  18. #18
    Draw length will be shorter then compound. I have a 31 inch draw and am shooting my recurves and longbows a tad under 29. Get rid of the plastic vanes and put on 5" feathers. I got hooked and will never be a pulley popper again. Check out 3 rivers archery for anything you need trad and they have some great books. Another place for GREAT info i found is traditional bowhunter magazine. If you have any questions at all pm me. also i have some old issues of the magazine bought off ebay. give me your adress and ill send you one or two to get you going. Have fun.

  19. #19
    Thank you for the info. It was very helpful. My address is Erwin Brown-56 Garrett Rd.-Greenbrier-Arkansas-72058

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