Vintage Tru Flight arrows

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Republic of Texas
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    Vintage Tru Flight arrows

    Recently I found some vintage Tru Flight Easton XX75 aluminum arrows on Ebay for a heck of a deal. They have glue-on clear nocks. I am trying to convert them to the Super Uni bushing nock adapters. However instead of being the standard swaged nock end, they have what looks to be like a white plastic adapter. How do I get these out? Should I soak the ends in acetone and pull them out? I tried gently heating with my alcohol burner, but I don't want to get them too hot. I know Tru Flight has been out of the picture for a while, or I'd call them. Mods: please move to the Arrow and Strings if I'm posting my question in the wrong location. Thank you for reading.
    Browning X-Cellerator III finger shooter

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Australia
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    68
    Eaglecaps try getting a long rod and tapping out from point end after gently heating the alloy at nock end----about all I can suggest other than cutting some off [length permitting]
    I remember these well and I think they were the precursor to the alloy uni-nock bushings we have now.
    Oh and by the way I remember owning the famous Browning X-cellerator too , I loved that wooden riser and the Browning speed , Bear could not come close in those days.

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  5. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Houston (not many know Katy)
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    14,589
    Heat the shaft while grabbing the adapter with a pliers and twisting/pulling at same time. When the glue lets lose you'll be able to remove them.
    or
    remove the insert and use a drill bit, swing the shaft and let the bit hammer them out.
    2012 PSE Supra ME, 47#,ACC, Davis sight;2012 Dominator Pro 47#; DS Advantage; ACC's
    Win-Win Inno Carbon Riser/Pro Accent 36#(38 tof), DS Advantage-282grn@ 195fps- and a bunch of other recurves
    2011 Hoyt Vantage Pro, XT 2000, Sprls, Sure Loc W BE 6X, ACC's 408g @ 265

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  7. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Republic of Texas
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    I'll try both suggestions. Thanks
    Browning X-Cellerator III finger shooter

  8. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Republic of Texas
    Posts
    463
    Drill bit worked great! Heat turned them into mush. Thanks again!
    Browning X-Cellerator III finger shooter

  9. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Houston (not many know Katy)
    Posts
    14,589
    Very good
    Curious...Did you heat the adapter (swage) or the shaft only?
    2012 PSE Supra ME, 47#,ACC, Davis sight;2012 Dominator Pro 47#; DS Advantage; ACC's
    Win-Win Inno Carbon Riser/Pro Accent 36#(38 tof), DS Advantage-282grn@ 195fps- and a bunch of other recurves
    2011 Hoyt Vantage Pro, XT 2000, Sprls, Sure Loc W BE 6X, ACC's 408g @ 265

  10. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Republic of Texas
    Posts
    463
    I tried heating end of the shaft, but those plastic swages got soft fast and I was just able to pull off what was exposed. Drill bit swing did the rest. They also had those black composite point inserts that didn't all come out cleanly either. Had to use the drill bit to get what was left out of the shaft as well first. Cut them down to 29" last night and installed the Super Uni bushings and Super Nocks. When I got home from work today I installed aluminum point inserts. A dozen arrows effectively cost me $14. I'll probably strip the vanes off next and feather fletch them. I think I want to go with the natural barred look. I also found the original Flipper Fest for the bow which I'm also using a cushion plunger with, although I wish I could find a Browning Stick On rest. Next on my list is a NOS Browning quiver. It's kind of like restoring a car to "Concours Correct".
    Browning X-Cellerator III finger shooter

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