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Thread: I just got a used Bitzenburger jig...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    349

    I just got a used Bitzenburger jig...

    Does anyone have instructions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    184
    The flat on the thumb nob for turning the shaft goes down. this will be the cock vane. There should be two knobs on top. If you look closely you will see an index mark next to each. These are used to set your offset if so desired. Otherwise align the two marks for o offset. There should also be a two or three small allen screws next to each other. These set the jig for 90 or 120 degree vanes. You set the screw in for whechever is desired. I dont have mine in front of me right now due to being at work and not home. Hope this helps

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by paulhsu666 View Post
    Does anyone have instructions?























    There are 3 set screws near the rotating knob.
    You want the lowest set screw flush with the metal surface of the frame.
    CORRECTION: HIGHEST set screw is flush, like in the picture.
    Middle and lowest set screw should be up.


    The other three set screws should be unscrewed,
    so the set screws protrude above the frame.

    You can adjust the tension for how smoothly the rotating
    knob moves to each fletch position.

    The standard knob is designed for recurve arrows,
    so the cock vane will be at 90 degrees.

    No problem, if you are fletching arrows for a compound bow.
    Just rotate the nock, when you are done.


    There is an upper adjustment dial,
    and a lower adjustment dial.

    The lower adjustment dial
    affects the position of the vane at the back, near the nock.


    The upper adjustment dial
    affects the position of the vane at the front.


    I usually leave the lower adjustment dial
    dead center, at the 12-o'clock position. If you do this,
    then the back of the vane will be at the top centerline
    of the arrow shaft.


    I usually adjust the top adjustment dial
    slightly to the right, say about 1-o'clock.

    This will move the front of the vane
    slightly to the right of the arrow centerline.

    If you are using a straight clamp,
    then the front of the vane will be slightly
    offset to the right.

    This slight right offset,
    will make the arrow shaft spin,
    during flight.
    Last edited by nuts&bolts; May 18th, 2007 at 03:32 AM.
    www.nutsandboltsarchery.com
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...=who+wants+dvd
    Send me an email for DVD = $25.00....

    alanlui@comcast.net


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    349
    thanks so much!! *print

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
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    My jig has just two exposed magnets and not that little cover thing over the two magnets like in your pics.. am i screwed?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    349
    it looks like this


  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by paulhsu666 View Post
    it looks like this

    The magnets are precision ground to be flat.
    The picture you show is how it should be used.


    The flat piece of metal is only a protector plate.
    You are just fine.

    I remove the protector plate,
    when I am using the Bitz to fletch arrows.

    When I am done,
    I put the protector plate back on.

    You can go to the hardware store
    and get a small strip of metal and use it as a
    protector plate for the precision ground magnets.
    www.nutsandboltsarchery.com
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...=who+wants+dvd
    Send me an email for DVD = $25.00....

    alanlui@comcast.net

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Chesapeake Bay MD
    Posts
    57,494
    The protector plate will help keep the magnet surfaces clean, and rust free... Mine is about 30yrs old... still fletching strong...
    Lancaster Archery Supply
    G5 Outdoors/Prime - Rival/Havoc
    (a lethal combination)

    All men die, some men never truly live!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Delaware
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    349
    Oh thank goodness!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    East Central MN
    Posts
    782

    good review

    nice to see the instructions,

    I got mine used as well, any way to know if the magnets have been damaged, how big should they be?

    Also,

    I am having trouble getting the blazer to be offset on a CXL2. these are the fat shafts, it seems to get it centered, I have to have the back (bottom) knob turned to the right a bit.

    Any idea why that would be?

    N&B, you mentioned 1 o'clock. With blazers, mine is maybe 12:30, probably shy of that. How much offset can one get with a blazer?

    Thanks for the help.
    10 STROTHER INFINITY LH 29.5/60 351gr @312fps
    10 STROTHER INSPIRE LH FOR SALE

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Grand River Zip View Post
    nice to see the instructions,

    I got mine used as well, any way to know if the magnets have been damaged, how big should they be?

    Also,

    I am having trouble getting the blazer to be offset on a CXL2. these are the fat shafts, it seems to get it centered, I have to have the back (bottom) knob turned to the right a bit.

    Any idea why that would be?

    N&B, you mentioned 1 o'clock. With blazers, mine is maybe 12:30, probably shy of that. How much offset can one get with a blazer?

    Thanks for the help.
    Hello Grand River Zip.

    The Blazer vanes are intentionally stiff.
    Some folks make sure to leave a tiny gap between
    the base of the clamp and the base of the Blazer vane
    to make sure you get adequate compression against the shaft.

    My instructions about the offset are general guidelines.
    The amount you turn the top dial on the Bitz jig
    will be a function of what shaft your are fletching
    and the brand and model of vane you are using.

    I use NAP Quickspin 2.25 vanes
    and the VaneTec SuperSpine
    and the VaneTec mini-FITA vanes.

    I use just a tiny amount of offset on the top dial (slightly to the right).
    I can get away with keeping the bottom dial dead center.

    I shoot field archery, so I want the minimum amount of drag
    and only a slight amount of offset.

    If you have to turn the bottom dial to the left
    and the upper dial to the right,
    I would suggest the same amount of dial offset (12:30 setting for the top dial)
    and (6:30 setting for the bottom dial).

    The exact dial settings will vary
    for everyone because of shaft diameter,
    and because of vane length
    and vane stiffness.
    www.nutsandboltsarchery.com
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...=who+wants+dvd
    Send me an email for DVD = $25.00....

    alanlui@comcast.net

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Gifu, Japan
    Posts
    611

    Exclamation Size of Hex key

    What size hex keys are used for this Jig.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Canjapan2003 View Post
    What size hex keys are used for this Jig.

    5/64". the same key that fits an 8-32 set screw. I have trouble getting good 120 degree spacing when doing small arrows like Navs or Nanos. The nock receiver lets the shaft slip around, especially when applying pressure to set the fast setting glues. I had a machinist buddy make me a new nock receiver for 3 fletch, 120 degree and it's super. I have 3 inserts, one for pin nocks, one for G nocks and one for Super nocks. The end of the pin fits into the pin nock insert and I've made an adjustable plate for the upper support so that their is no sideways pressure on the pin. The other 2 inserts are pins which fit snuggly into the G nock and Super nock bushings.
    I just did a set of Nanos with it and it works great. Perfect spacing and vane seating.
    I'm thinking about selling this through my Zenith business as an upgrade kit, plus you would still have the stock receiver for the sizes not covered by the kit. Can I get an idea of the interest in this before I order a bunch of parts.
    Joe B.
    Zenarch

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Gifu, Japan
    Posts
    611
    Quote Originally Posted by zenarch View Post
    5/64". the same key that fits an 8-32 set screw. .
    Joe B.
    Is that the size for the angle adjustment screw locks? Or the Nock receiver set screws?

    Here in Japan it's a bit tough finding a full selection of SAE tools so I do appreciate the feed back.

    Thanks

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Cornwall, England
    Posts
    816
    My jig arrived this morning is there any way it can be set so the cock fletching can be set straight up, or do I have to rotate the nock after the arrow is fletched.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony_zelah View Post
    My jig arrived this morning is there any way it can be set so the cock fletching can be set straight up, or do I have to rotate the nock after the arrow is fletched.
    Standard nock receiver has the cock vane at 9-o'clock,
    for a recurve bow.

    I just rotate the nock.


    You can purchase another nock receiver,
    that puts the cock vane at 12-o'clock.
    www.nutsandboltsarchery.com
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...=who+wants+dvd
    Send me an email for DVD = $25.00....

    alanlui@comcast.net

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Southern Illinois
    Posts
    3,648

    !!!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by nuts&bolts View Post















    There are 3 set screws near the rotating knob.
    You want the lowest set screw flush with the metal surface of the frame.
    CORRECTION: HIGHEST set screw is flush, like in the picture.
    Middle and lowest set screw should be up.


    The other two set screws should be unscrewed,
    so the set screws protrude above the frame.

    You can adjust the tension for how smoothly the rotating
    knob moves to each fletch position.

    The standard knob is designed for recurve arrows,
    so the cock vane will be at 90 degrees.

    No problem, if you are fletching arrows for a compound bow.
    Just rotate the nock, when you are done.


    There is an upper adjustment dial,
    and a lower adjustment dial.

    The lower adjustment dial
    affects the position of the vane at the back, near the nock.


    The upper adjustment dial
    affects the position of the vane at the front.


    I usually leave the lower adjustment dial
    dead center, at the 12-o'clock position. If you do this,
    then the back of the vane will be at the top centerline
    of the arrow shaft.


    I usually adjust the top adjustment dial
    slightly to the right, say about 1-o'clock.

    This will move the front of the vane
    slightly to the right of the arrow centerline.

    If you are using a straight clamp,
    then the front of the vane will be slightly
    offset to the right.

    This slight right offset,
    will make the arrow shaft spin,
    during flight.
    Bitz instructions

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by zenarch View Post
    5/64". the same key that fits an 8-32 set screw. I have trouble getting good 120 degree spacing when doing small arrows like Navs or Nanos. The nock receiver lets the shaft slip around, especially when applying pressure to set the fast setting glues. I had a machinist buddy make me a new nock receiver for 3 fletch, 120 degree and it's super. I have 3 inserts, one for pin nocks, one for G nocks and one for Super nocks. The end of the pin fits into the pin nock insert and I've made an adjustable plate for the upper support so that their is no sideways pressure on the pin. The other 2 inserts are pins which fit snuggly into the G nock and Super nock bushings.
    I just did a set of Nanos with it and it works great. Perfect spacing and vane seating.
    I'm thinking about selling this through my Zenith business as an upgrade kit, plus you would still have the stock receiver for the sizes not covered by the kit. Can I get an idea of the interest in this before I order a bunch of parts.
    Joe B.
    I do have the Bitz upgrade kit for sale now. See the threads below.

    Bitz is the best but it can be even better. With the upgrade nock receiver by Zenith you can do a flawless job with any arrow/vane combination. See the threads listed below and search for other comments from those who already have the upgrade. If you use a fast set glue it's not a time consuming job doing one vane at a time.


    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...t=bitzenburger

    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...=1#post7558477

    Joe B.
    Zenarch

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by IGluIt4U View Post
    The protector plate will help keep the magnet surfaces clean, and rust free... Mine is about 30yrs old... still fletching strong...
    That plate is called a keeper. It is not there to protect the magnets.It is to keep the magnets from getting weaker.
    Mike LePera
    Britesite.US

  20. #20
    I just bought a used Bitz. I'm shooting a compound bow, would like to put three fletch off set for blazers. I'm a little confused about the cock vane. I'm using a NAP sizzor drop away rest. Is the cock vane an issue for me? I was just going to fletch three blazer vanes in the same color. Is it necessary to have a designated cock vane?

    Thanks

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by bashier View Post
    I just bought a used Bitz. I'm shooting a compound bow, would like to put three fletch off set for blazers. I'm a little confused about the cock vane. I'm using a NAP sizzor drop away rest. Is the cock vane an issue for me? I was just going to fletch three blazer vanes in the same color. Is it necessary to have a designated cock vane?

    Thanks
    With the scissor rest,
    no worries.

    You can have your vanes oriented any way you like,
    and it won't matter.
    www.nutsandboltsarchery.com
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...=who+wants+dvd
    Send me an email for DVD = $25.00....

    alanlui@comcast.net

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    921
    Hey everyone FYI the plate that is provided on the new Bitz is for maintaining magnetisim in the magnets if you do not have one just keep the clamp on the magnets. If you leave it off the magnets will get weak and eventually lose thier ability to hold the clamp in position.

  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by cchunter View Post
    Hey everyone FYI the plate that is provided on the new Bitz is for maintaining magnetisim in the magnets if you do not have one just keep the clamp on the magnets. If you leave it off the magnets will get weak and eventually lose thier ability to hold the clamp in position.
    It's called a keeper
    Mike LePera
    Britesite.US

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