Shot 6 two arrow groups, 1 bare and 1 fletched this is what it looks like, results were the same each time. Bare is to the left of fletched with tail to the right. What do I do to correct this
I'm shooting a Pse B.M. 32 @ 50lbs with 26" draw, rest is a W.B.
Any suggestions?
Shot it into the block below and what do you get? A bag target can skew the results in my opinion.
You can yoke tune. And get em good prob. That's where I would start.
First , on a draw board,check to be sure bow is in time..
Then adjust the nock point or rest vertically to get the tail high corrected.
If no press or draw board , bump rest up a tiny bit until the vertical is adjusted..
Then for the tail right.
If you have yokes, set center shot and yoke tune until the horizontal is adjusted..
Lots of video on here on yoke tuning..
If no yokes, move rest left a tiny bit until bareshaft is same as fletched..
Assuming your R/H - and if this is at 20 - move your rest ever so slightly to the right towards the riser to bring the bare shaft closer to the field tip as the both appear to be about level. Can also be caused by your grip.
What bow are you shooting, what arrow and point weight + insert weight? Are you right handed or left handed?
You are very close, any changes should be small ones.
It is a really good sign that you get the same result every time, you are consistent.
Its not the target if you are getting the same result every time, but bags can be a tittle misleading.
Lets assume you are right handed because most are (reverse changes if you are left handed.
I like to take notes and write every thing I do down, mark your current rest locations with a pencil before you start (sometimes the sight will slip when you loosen it and you are lost)
Only change ONE thing at a time.
I would do a walk back with a string or vertical line to check the position or the rest left to right, if you don't your horizontal will not be on at all yardages.
If you have yokes, add 1 twist to the right side. If you don't have yokes, shim the cams to the right (I usually do .20" at a time) Mathews bows use "Tophats" to achieve this.
There are other things that can cause this like face pressure, grip in too deep to the right side, draw length. But remember to only change one thing at a time.
Good luck
What I will do is. If I'm happy with rest position then I will add one full turn at a time to right yoke and at the same time remove one from left and shoot. See if this make any difference.
It depends on the distance? 5-10 yards? --> yoketuning, arrow rest, LAS (PSE), cable guard, spine, grip...! if the bareshaft is fine till 20 yards and this picture is about 40 yards , everything is OK. don´t care...
If you hit with fletched arrows always the target from 5 till 60yards --- don´t care.
One suggestion. You are pretty close now. No matter what you do make sure to write it down. So you can come back later to same settings if something goes wrong
I think it's contact issue. But per say it was a matter of rest tuning. Personally if a person has to move the rest more than 1/8" from the bow spec you need to go to yoke tuning.
If you put twists in the right yoke does that change timing? if so, what do you have to do to bring it back into time? How do you know its in time with just 1 stop on bottom cam and if you don't have a draw board?
Thanks again as always
Put one in one side and take one out the other. That will keep draw stop close to same thing. You may have timing marks on your cams. And check your holding weight to see if it's where it needs to be if not your cams are not rolling over the needed amount so you will hold more.
Anytime you do one thing it will effect something else a little maybe not enough to tell much difference.
If your still tail low and nock right with bareshaft after shooting a few times into your foam target from 15-20 yards and nock height and rest are set properly....I would suggest adding one full twist into your top right yoke leg.
That'll raise your nock and move nock left simultaneously.
Your nock low that could be from the bag also. You need to put half a twist in one cable and see what that does this chart will tell you what you will do with each string. I would put a half twist in the cable with yoke and see what that does.
Buss cable is also called the yoke cable. Other cable is called the control cable. The two cables are wrapped around the bottom cam in opposite directions.
So, if you untwist the buss cable....you can get the same effect by adding a twist to the control cable, cuz they work in opposite directions. Learn by doing. WRite down what you did. PIck a cable. Want to only mess with the buss cable? Fine. Be brave. REMOVE a twist from the buss cable. Shoot some arrows. Did things get better or worse? If things got worse, then, ADD a twist back to the buss cable. You are back to the beginning. Then, add another twist to the buss cable. Shoot some arrows. Are things better?
I went through this nearly identical situation. After moving rest all over I reset center shot and after reading a nuts and bolts article on grip position and torquing. I changed my grip position ever so slightly counterclockwise and Ill be danged, my bareshafts straightened right up. If nothing else works try very slight changes in your grip. N&B has info in the tuning section here on AT.
Not a problem. I have been fortunate in that I haven't had any issues. I like all points of view but I don't like to be bogged down with one mindset. There are many ways to tune and I start out setting everything up and getting my dw and dl set where I want them. Then I shoot through paper at 3 yards and 10 yards. After getting a good bullet hole I move to 20 and shoot a bare and fletched till they are touching or as close to touching as possible. Then if it's hunting I will bh tune which I have yet to have one NOT tune after I have done above steps.
When I get new arrows I do all above but I nock tune my bs before to eliminate any possible error in that respect.
Now I wanna rewatch the video Reo Wilde did on create a direction for his target arrows and try that. I haven't gotten into it yet but I will soon.
This is going to hurt some peoples feelings but this is from my experience. WB's are very hard to tune. The slightest movement during the shot is going to affect how the arrow flies because the arrow is in contact with the rest until it completely leaves the bow. Also the fletching is affected by the bristles and an arrow with no vanes is not affected as much.
I tried to broadhead tune a wb for a month and then I replaced it with a drop away rest and the bow tuned with 3 shots.
So if you just can't get the wb to tune try another rest. If you get the wb to tune, you are a better archer than me.
Flame suit on so tell me how you eye balled the rest and the bow was tuned for bareshaft, broadheads, and field tips with no adjustment required.
Everyone is telling the OP what to do but not WHY. Here's WHY.
The bareshaft always goes where the powerstroke pushes it.
The bareshaft always shows how much vertical nock travel it has on the string.
For right/left bareshaft, the powerstroke needs to be aligned to the center of the arrow.
This can be done several ways:
adding or subtracting cam lean on the top cam (where the yoke is attached)→ bareshaft impacts left on a RH bow, reduce top cam lean, sometimes shim the bottom cam. In my experience, PSE's like zero bottom cam lean at brace.
move the rest - you move the fletched arrow to the bareshaft, typically.
PSE's with X-Force limbs require advanced knowledge to understand where the stiffest limb goes and where the weakest limb goes.
For nock low or high, there are three options on your PSE:
raise or lower the rest. If the arrow is barely in the Berger hole after adjusting or the condition is not responding, something else is wrong.
Something else is that the D-loop is not close to where it needs to be. Nock low, move D-loop up 1 or 2 turns. It should thread itself higher or lower when turned.
Use a paint pen to mark where the loop is and verify it moves when you twist. If it doesn't, then the center serving has been strangled and you need to retie the loop or re-serve the string or both.
On the modified single cammers like the BM, you can also start twisting on the control cable to get reasonably level nock travel. The control cable is the one attached to both cams.
Sometimes it can be way off, like 3 or more full turns.
Start by adding a full twist and note where the nock goes and adjust from there.
PSE's are like an old Chevy - they are very easy to tune without a lot of special tools.
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