Archery Talk Forum banner

Broadhead Tuning Day Today

312K views 918 replies 420 participants last post by  Chase406 
#1 · (Edited)
Decided to take advantage of the break in the rain and quit loading up animals 2-by-2 and building my big boat for them:) I used the time to broadhead tune for the 2007-2008 Hunting Season...before somebody starts seeing Rut activity next week:wink:
I decided to post the sequence of events here to help out those that have never done this before or for those that tried and got frustrated. This is just how I did it.

Set-up
Martin Slayer Xtreme 28.5" DynaCam 65# SouthPaw Version (Left-Hand):thumb:
Trophy Taker Original Drop-Away
Winners Choice 452x string/cable
6" Fuse Axium Stabilizer
Sword 3rd Axis Micro-Apex 0.010" pins
Carbon Express Maxima 350 with bull-dog collars and 2 inch Blazer vanes
G5 Striker 100 grain broadheads

Shot distance 25 yards
Target Rinehart 18-1

Shafts were cut on an Apple Arrow Saw and squared using a G5 ASD (Arrow squaring Device) carbon cutter side on both the cut end and nock ends. Inserts were installed and inserts were squared with aluminum side of cutter on G5 ASD. Shafts were fletched with 3 Original Blazer Vanes (2 inch) on a Bitz jig Right helical clamp.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
First shots
Red is Broadhead
Green is Field Point
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Ready for the whitetail woods.
 
#10 ·
Thanks, but I guess it is relatively simple IF you have eliminated any contact issues (aka vane clearance) and your arrows are matched with your rig (that is within factory spec) and the bow is somewhat in tune to start with.
 
#18 ·
I think this thread is sticky worthy since the season is so close.

:darkbeer:
I might know somebody that can do that very thing:wink:
 
#17 · (Edited)
I would agree for the most part, but I just put the rest and sight on this bow (same combo I used last year, but had them on a different bow for MBR) and installed a Simms teflon cable slide. The only thing I did was check cam timing, ATA and BH before sighting in the FP's at 25 yards.
This is a "start from scratch" type scenario.:)
 
#21 ·
You may be responsible for the deaths of several more hooved animals this year. :eek: :wink:
That's guilt I can live with:dancing:
 
#22 ·
After the recent poll I ran called Bowhunter Syrvey, I'm certainly glad to see someone follow up with a post like this. There were FAR too many people (20%+)that simply attached their BH and hoped for the best. Thanks Doc!!


BTW- Here's that survey http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=535188&highlight=Bowhunter+Survey
Ted,
Thanks for the link. I hadn't seen that previously, but I'll bet AT users don't represent the vast majority. I know many people say Broadhead tune?:confused: They buy them the night before and screw those nice shiny heads on...never even consider a different POI.
 
#26 ·
Excellent graphical help, Doc! That's going to help a lot of people on here, because all of us have to go through those exact same steps to insure that we can hit what we aim at in the coming months. As dedicated archers, we're always tweaking, changing, and playing around with our bows as well as working them hard and damaging them in the woods. These steps must be done every time anything changes a tiny amount. Great work!
 
#28 ·
That is the Rinehart 18-in1
 
#31 ·
I received several PM's asking how close is close enough. This all depends on your shooting ability. If you normally shoot 3 inch groups with field points at 30 yards and can keep your broadhead in that 3 inches, then you are good-to-go. If you can only hold a 6 inch group, then your BH's should be in that 6 inch area. I like to get them this close though.:)
 

Attachments

#32 ·
Doc, how do you know whether to move the rest or the sight? Why is it that the BH and FP land in different locations but by moving the sight and rest they eventually land in the same place? Is that the initual tuning or done after you paper tuned? Do you shoot through paper afterwards to make sure that the arrow is flying straight? At what distance shout you put the paper at when shooting through? Sorry for all the questions but I am trying to become a better archer and still have a lot to learn.
 
#33 ·
This is a common misconception and area of frustration for many. This is why I posted a step-by-step instruction of what I moved when. The whole goal to BH tuning is to get the same point of impact (POI) for your BH and FP's. Therefore moving your sight is not going to tune anything. You adjust your rest until your BH and FP's are grouping together. It doesn't matter if they are hitting where you are aiming (aiming at center X the whole time), only if they are hitting together. Once you get them to hit together, you are BH tuned and now it's time to set your sight for their POI. After you get them to group together and adjust your sight to the proper POI...you are done...good-to-go. Forget paper. If you go back to paper, you are just going to have to BH tune again. If you are going to paper tune, do this to get things close before BH tuning.
Make sense?
 
#36 ·
What about walkback tuning? Does this still fit into the equation somewhere, or is it an either/or thing? To me it would seem that broadhead tuning might negate any effects gained from walkback tuning and vice versa...
 
#37 ·
You can walk-back tune prior to BH tuning, but if you are truly BH tuned (done at various distances) then there is no reason to walk-back tune.
If you were to paper tune and then walk-back tune, your BH tuning should only require minimal adjustments. BH's show tuning flaws more so than FP's.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top