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Thread: Nock Point placement???? Need a little Help

  1. #1

    Nock Point placement???? Need a little Help

    Hello everyone I have a question. I was getting some help paper tuning my bow and instead of moving the rest (trophy taker pronghorn) to correct my vertcal error the guy moved my nock point. Only thing is, seems like he moved it a BUNCH. Like a half inch or something...

    My question... Is there a Correct place that you measure off of using some some point on the bow to where your nock is supposed to be located. Then you move the rest of course for paper tuning...

    Just curious I have a tape measure out and want to see if its in an acceptable spot.

    I shoot a Mathews PRESTIGE. 28" draw.



  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by chadwickz71 View Post
    Hello everyone I have a question. I was getting some help paper tuning my bow and instead of moving the rest (trophy taker pronghorn) to correct my vertcal error the guy moved my nock point. Only thing is, seems like he moved it a BUNCH. Like a half inch or something...

    My question... Is there a Correct place that you measure off of using some some point on the bow to where your nock is supposed to be located. Then you move the rest of course for paper tuning...

    Just curious I have a tape measure out and want to see if its in an acceptable spot.

    I shoot a Mathews PRESTIGE. 28" draw.
    No not really. The generally accepted inital setup is square with a drop-away and about an 1/8th to a 1/4" above square for a blade or other "fixed" rest. I don't do paper tuning, but instead do bare shaft tuning. But, the purpose of either is to produce a staight linear launch.

    Now, if the bow is capable of producing a completely linear launch then these rest positions will generally work. Most bows because of variations in modules setting and other things may not be capable of a linear launch. Let's say you have a nock high paper tear. Therefore, if the arrow is square with a drop-away, you might have either or both a combination of an early drop and/or the string is being pulling harder on the top side.

    With a hybrid or dual cam this might be an indication of a timing situation or a stronger top limb. On a single cam this is probably an idication of a stronger top limb and you could increase the poundage in the lower limb or decrease it in the top limb. This is called a tiller adjustment, but it does effect your hold too. So, sometimes, tiller adjustment helps and sometimes it doesn't.

    I generally shoot dual cam bows. I may make a tiller adjustment to create the best hold. If I have a bow which constantly feels like the sight wants to go low on, I would added poundage to the top limb or decrease it on the bottom. If this resulted in a nock high launch, I would either move the nock or rest down. Moving the nock is more of a course adjustment and move the rest is more of a fine adjustment. I have one bow which actually shoot best with about a 1/4" below square nock position.

    Now, there are quite a few reasons for this happenning and it depends on the bow, but some of it may just be that particular cam and the way it is tuned or timed.
    Little Jon Archery Products
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  3. #3
    so i guess if the bow is tuned just don't worry about were everthing sits...

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