a good ttt for martin owners.
a good ttt for martin owners.
Ben Pearson MarXman
Can you point me toward the target, please?
Forgot this thread existed. I don't know how many Martins with Cat Cams I've played with, but enough of them and the Rytera cams are no different. I've had 3 Shadowcats, two 2010s and one 2011. Down to one and one now. You know, the manual works. One cam hits before the other, twist the cable that feeds into the module for that cam. This wrapping of cams and whatever, fine, but always check draw length and draw weight. Go out of specs, long on draw and heavy on weight, and you're just fooling yourself.
My 2010 and 2011 are set to a bit over 56 pounds with 28 1/4" draws. Using a 284 gr arrow they cranked out 286 and 293 fps respectively. The 2010 doesn't not have speed nocks - so the 7 fps difference?
I have advanced the Cat Cams quite abnormally, but held ata spec. Speed was not effected and if anything the draw seemed a bit smoother, but these were Shadowcats of 41 1/4 and 41 1/2".
So far, depending on the bow, having the top cam hit a bit before the bottom seems to work wonders. Hoyt people have found the same thing. I did the same with my last two Hoyts and they shot great.
Pearson MX3 and MarXman. Limb Driver and Pro. Muddy Virtue HT3s and DCA Target Series. Bohning vanes. Sure Loc Challenger. Specialty Peep. Stanislawski MagMicro Trio, Deuce, Jet Black, and Shootoff. TRU Ball ST360 and HT, 30" Stinger
with Stinger back bars.
anyone have any videos to walk us through the process?
2012 Elite Answer -- Limbsaver Windjammer 7" Stabilizer -- Sword Twilight Hunter -- QAD HD Bone Collector Drop Away Rest-- Beman ICS Bowhunter 438 Grains -- Broad heads: QAD Exodus Swept Back & G5 T3!
Kyle, check out post #219 by Spikelaot on the previous page. He copied an earlier post from nuts&bolts that nicely describes the process. Read it carefully and apply the steps as described. You should be able to get the cams, DW, DL and let-off set just the way you want by following these steps. I know, I've used the process a few times myself when I've changed cables and strings. Also, nuts&bolts has some very good and clear photos on the first page of this thread so everyone can visualize just what they should be striving for. If you have a bow press it makes the whole process that much easier than turning the limb bolts in and out. I have a BowMaster portable press and it works great with my 08 Firecat.
I recently got a little smarter and started using my cordless drill-driver with a 1/2" adapter and 5/8" socket to fit the hex head on the press's jackscrew (threaded bolt) to draw the limbs in (take tension off the strings and cables) and let them out, making it a much easier and faster process. In case you're not familiar with it you can check it out here (http://www.prototechind.com/). It costs about $50 and is worth every penny. I take mine with me when I'm out hunting just in case - it only weighs a few ounces. The one thing I do that I haven't seen mentioned is I apply a drop or two of light machine oil to the jackscrew threads every now and then (wiping off any excess) as it helps reduce friction, making it easier to turn the jackscrew in and out and I feel sure it helps reduce wear and tear on the main body.
I'm glad to see this thread come back up. I set my Nemesis aside mid-way thru hunting season because it developed a creaking noise. Time to get it back out and tear it down for a cleanup -- maybe build a new set of strings -- and get it re-tuned. I reallly like that bow.
Just as an aside -- I recently picked up a Bowtech Invasion. I'm shocked at the similarities between it and the Nemesis. Very similar feels, but I think the Nemesis is quieter when it's in tune.
Best of luck to each of you.