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what do the numbers on the arrows mean?

57K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  Ian  
#1 ·
heyyyy everyone...haven't posted here in a longggggg while...been doing so much homework...just a question about the numbers on the arrows lol i see some arrows with the number 4067 or like 2012 or something along the line of that. What does that really mean? Does is have something to do with the spining or something? How do they come up with the numbers? lol

on the other hand...my physics mouse trap car placed first in my school's physics car race:darkbeer:
 
#4 ·
Depends on the manufacturer. They each prefer their own indicators and have their own charts that correlates length, tip weight, slow/fast cam, etc.

2012 means 20/64 OD with a wall thickness of 12 thousands.
5575 indicates that the arrow could be used for bows from 55lb to 75lb draw weight (more or less).
500, 400, 340 indicate the spine deflection. Supporting the shaft 28" apart and suspending a weight (2.2lb comes to mind but so does 1.8lb????) the .500 shaft will bend .5" and the .340 will bend .34".

:cocktail:
 
#5 ·
Be careful about the model numbers.

GoldTip XT Hunter 5575 doesn't really mean the arrow will work
for ALL bows between 55 lbs and 75 lbs.

GoldTip XT Huner 7595 definitely does not mean this arrow will work
for bows between 75 and 95 lbs of draw weight.

Carbon Express Select 200 does not mean the arrow works for a 200 lb draw weight bow.


These are just model numbers, LohGong,
and it's better to look up the stiffness bending rating on the arrow.


Easton has a very simple model numbering method.

Easton Axis 400 means the bending stiffness rating = 0.400 inches.
Easton Redline 690 means the bending stiffness rating = 0.690 inches.
Easton Fatboy 400 means the bending stiffness rating = 0.400 inches.


So,
best to look up the bending stiffness rating.


Easton 2012 (when easton uses 4 numbers...it's an aluminum arrow)
bending stiffness rating = 0.685 inches.




So,
aluminum arrow
or carbon arrow...

look up the bending stiffness.


You need to know the bow draw length setting.
You need to know the draw weight of the bow.

With these two bits of information,
software programs can figure out the total energy of the bow.



Once the software knows the total energy of the bow,
then....

you can pick a length of arrow
and
you can pick a stiffness rating of arrow
and
you can pick the weight of the target or field point up in front
and
you can pick your favorite vanes or feathers in back.



All of these things,
combine to create the "total stiffness" of the arrow.

The "total stiffness" of the arrow
must match
the "total energy" of the bow.


This may seem really complicated,
but the software makes it really easy.


When you get a perfect match
between the bow total energy
and
the arrow total stiffness,
you get really good accuracy.
 
#9 ·
ooooh i see...does this mean if i have arrows spined with a 45 pound bow, i can shoot it out of anything with a lower draw weight and it'll be fine and shoot just as fine?
 
#10 ·
The answer is it depends.


If you wear a size 9 hiking shoe,
will a size 8 hiking shoe work for you?

Well,
kinda sorta,
but your feet are really going to hurt.

Will a size 10 hiking shoe work?
Well,
kinda sorta,
but you are going to get blisters from your foot sliding around.



So,
if an arrow is a perfect match for YOUR draw length
on a 45 lb draw weight bow....

and you try to use that same arrow for YOUR draw length
and use it on a 44 lb draw weight bow...
it should work just fine.


If you try to use that same arrow for YOUR draw length at 45 lbs
and you use it for a 43 lb draw weight bow...
it should work just fine.


If you try to use that same arrow for YOUR draw length at 45 lbs
and you use it for a 40 lb draw weight bow...
and
IF you take the time to get the arrow rest position perfect
and
IF you take the time to get the sight pin position perfect...

it will work just fine,
IF you have very very good shooting technique
and
IF you are using screw in field points with inserts or glue in target points.


Won't work so well with broadheads.


If you try to use that same arrow for YOUR draw length at 45 lbs
and you use it for a 35 lb draw weight bow...
and
IF you take the time to get the arrow rest position perfect
and
IF you take the time to get the sight pin position perfect...

it will work just fine,
IF you have very very good shooting technique
and
IF you are using screw in field points with inserts or glue in target points.


NOTE: THIS ASSUMES YOU ARE SHOOTING A COMPOUND BOW WITH A RELEASE.

NOTE: IF YOU ARE SHOOTING WITH FINGERS (RECURVE OR COMPOUND),
THIS WILL NOT WORK. YOU MUST SHOOT THE CORRECT STIFFNESS.
 
#11 ·
Also note that an arrow spined for a 20 year old 45lb wheel compound will be quite weak for a 40lb modern hard cam speed bow and maybe even dangerously low depending on the the bows.

Also note that there is little relationship between recurves and compounds as they shoot quite differently. A 45 spine in one may be a 65 in the other. Recurves generally have a different chart if you want any level of accuracy even though they are squeezed together sometime (most recurvers don't rely too heavily on the charts anyway).

You can get away with stiff spines (and for some people an arrow that reacts a little stiff is more forgiving too) but avoid weak ones like the plague. And, as said, for a finger shooter spine is critical for any level of accuracy.

Best is to pretty much shoot what spines correctly for your bow - it will be the safest and most accurate setup.
 
#12 ·
ooooh alright...some dude recommended me a 40..67 one i think...or somewhere around there for my 45 lbs recurve haha just gotta sell my LG white chocolate for the money to get the arrows! thanks everyone :)