September 27th, 2008, 10:42 PM
oneida bow ?
Any body know if you can change the draw lenght on an oneida aero-force x-80? Thanks for the help in advance!!!
September 27th, 2008, 10:58 PM
The AERO-FORCE uses modules that adjust both the draw length and the let-off. Let-off ranges from 40-80% and draw length will go from 25-34" depending on what size cam is on the bow.
Short cam: 25-28"
Med. cam: 28-31"
Long cam: 31-34"
Call your local Oneida dealer for the proper modules or call the factory @ 231-743-2427 and ask for either Matt or Ed.
I hope this helps!
September 27th, 2008, 11:00 PM
how do I tell which cam is on the bow?
Originally Posted by BEEFDOG
September 28th, 2008, 12:32 AM
September 28th, 2008, 12:59 AM
the mods on the have little to no effect on the draw length. they only really control the let off that you want. AF X-80' have k cams on them with a tear drop draw stop on the side with a rubber cap pin on it. there is a little set screw that you back out to adjust them. if you look on the lower power limb it should have a factory sticker on it that will tell you if it is short, med,or long.
Last edited by swampfrogg; September 28th, 2008 at 01:21 AM.
September 28th, 2008, 02:33 AM
This is from JeffPaHunter from Monster bows.
At times there is some misunderstanding in regard to the draw modules in the cam's on Oneida bows and I get this question quite a bit and try to respond in detail so figured I'd post an explanation here.
The modules (mod's) do very little to nothing in controlling the actual "physical" length of draw for the bow.
By their varying shapes the mod's are designed to really do two things:....
1) Create the desired amount of "let off" when the cam's roll over such as 50%, 65% or 80% etc.
2) Have this "let off" apply itself at a point in the length of your draw so that when you reach your desired anchor point of let's say 30.5" that you are at the lowest holding weight possible and also so that the maximum amount of length of your draw is at peak weight as long as possible in order to create as much "power stroke" (length of draw under full draw weight) to get as much speed as possible.
Now if you change mod's outside of what your actual draw length is the draw will feel different to you but the mod's them self really aren't preventing the bow from being drawn shorter or further..... precisely controlling the length of draw is what prompted Oneida to design their draw stops in the early to mid 90's.
If you have the 30.5" draw length that I mentioned above but select mod's for say 28/29" what happens is the cam's roll over much sooner and well before you get near your anchor of 30.5". This will steal speed as your cam's rolled over and let off quicker than they had to.
What you'll feel is the let off kick in but without draw stops you can physically continue to draw the bow beyond the 29" the mod's are rated for. If you do so the cam's will actually over rotate slightly and the draw weight will begin to slightly ramp up again as you approach your anchor point.
Word of caution if doing this. If doing so, depending on how much you are doing this by and how often it is possible to over stress the power cables at the point of where they attach to the cam's and shorten their life span.
On the opposite side you could take 31/32" draw mod's and with your 30.5" draw you'd be reaching your anchor point just as the cam's would begin to roll over and draw weight beginning to decrease.
End result would be 2 things. Your let off will be less than the modules are listed for as you haven't reached the peak let off or bottom of the valley yet. The draw weight by percentage is just beginning it's decent to the lowest possible point but you hit your anchor before the full effect of the shape of the draw module allowed for maximum let off. By doing so your power stroke increased as a greater length of your 30.5" of draw length was under full draw weight so the bow will be faster.
In essence you can put an extremely too long of a module in and the bow would draw and shoot like a re-curve with no let off if you wanted to.
Short draw (25-28" in most models) use smaller cams to achieve the shorter draw length. These short cams also require a different set of draw modules than med cams do. Yes they will fit and inter change but they will not achieve the same advertised and desired results.
A while back I had a man bring me a short draw Aeroforce for a re-build. He had it set at 28" and he commented that the draw just didn't seem as smooth as he remembered Oneida's to be or others referring to and the let off just didn't seem right.
Well low and behold once I dug into it I discovered that someone had put draw modules in the short cams that were designed for the medium cams. Sure the bow functioned fine and there was no harm in this but the draw was very harsh and had very little let off, he might as well have been shooting a re-curve bow.
I installed the proper draw module for his draw length and desired let off and when he picked up the bow, on his first draw his jaw about hit the floor, he looked at me and said "now that's what the draw of an Aeroforce is supposed to feel like.
On the older Oneida's such as Screaming Eagle's, H250's & H500's, since the cam's on these bows do not accept draw modules the let off is controlled by the actual shape of the cam. In other words the draw module is built right into the cam. The length of draw is also impacted by the cam size and shape as on some models the longer the draw length the larger the cam.
The next factor on these older models is that cable combination set's the draw length as well along with string length.
On a lever limbed bow you always want the limb gap relationship between outer limbs and power limbs to be a minimum of an even gap or preferably with the outer's slightly tipped back so that the gap in front is slightly larger than the gap back by the hinges.
This is achieved with the proper string length of course.
Next the cam's must start at their proper starting point in order to receive the full benefit of the cam's shape and the draw length and let off the cam provide's. This is similar in timing a car engine..."top dead center" so to speak.
This "starting point" is achieved by the proper length yoke cables.
Use too short of yoke cables and the cams will be starting a bit into the draw cycle or slightly advanced.
Use too long of yoke cables and the cams will be starting a bit back or slightly ******ed.
Another factor that CAN come into play on these older models is also outer limb length. As you start getting into the 31" draw length range and above, for these draw lengths you need to go to longer outer limbs as well to achieve the longer length of draw.
This is probably one of the most common issues I've seen with these older bows over the years. Somewhere along the passing of time someone re-cabled the bow with the incorrect cables and it changed the feeling of the draw, the draw length and the let off.
Hope this all makes sense and maybe helps someone have a better understanding of how these things work together.
September 28th, 2008, 01:13 PM
What I meant to say is that the modules adjust the let-off in relation to the cam being used. Some people try to get more performance by having the let-off at the very end of the draw cycle which will give a harsher draw but more speed.
Originally Posted by oneida4life
I use to cut the tails off of my modules and sand the ends smooth to extend the draw cycle of a longer module. With the tails cut off it would fall into a high let-off at the very end of my draw so I got the best of all worlds, smooth draw, high let-off and blazing speed.
This takes a bit of experimentation to find your sweet spot but it's well worth it. My old BLACK EAGLE could shoot a 580 grain arrow a little faster than my '06 ALLEGIANCE could at the same poundage.
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