Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Three under?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Nw ohio
    Posts
    727

    Three under?

    Ok, i shoot 3under on all my recurves, i doubt any are tillered for it. But, i shoot it alot better than the split finger. How much difference would it make if i had a bow that was designed to shoot 3 under? Thinkin there is a new longbow in my future and wondering if this could be an issue? thanks...



  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by bambam1 View Post
    Ok, i shoot 3under on all my recurves, i doubt any are tillered for it. But, i shoot it alot better than the split finger. How much difference would it make if i had a bow that was designed to shoot 3 under? Thinkin there is a new longbow in my future and wondering if this could be an issue? thanks...

    Many people feel there isn't much of adifference.

    2 of the main differences between Split Finger and 3 Under with bows are:

    Shooting 3 Under will generally require a higher nocking point than using Split Finger.

    In some cases shooting a bow 3 Under that is tillered for Split Finger can cause the bow to sound louder.

    If you have a bow that has adjustable limbs like a DAS or some other type of bow with ILF limbs you can adjust your own tiller to fit your style and what you need or want.

    If you are going to get a customed made bow that doesn't have any limb adjustment...I definitely would suggest getting it tillered for your 3 Under style of shooting.

    Ray

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    LI. NY
    Posts
    14,917
    bambam -

    You've already proven it to yourself. The only difference between shooting split and three under will be the exact tuning parameters. That assumes the bow was correctly made in the first place and not exceptionally short. (What some bowyers claim to a tiller difference between split and 3 under is on the order of 1/8", and that is easily negated by tuni, given the above caveats.)

    Viper1 out.
    “Simple and innocent, however, as it (the bow) appears, and capable as it is of being a trusty friend and ally, a bow is at the same time a watchful enemy, ready to take advantage of the smallest slight.”

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,948
    I know its not nessesary but on a take down bow you could shim the limb a little to get that so called 3 under tiller.But I just move my nock point,works fine for me.
    TGMM Brotherhood of the Bow
    Genesis 9:2-3
    Elite GT-500 Ninja "Stokerized"
    RER Arroyo
    NAP Hellrazors

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    1,948
    I shoot 3-under and have all my bows at an even tiller. Main reason is that I cant figure out how to measure/adjust the tiller. They all shoot fine, but are a little noisy.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    LI. NY
    Posts
    14,917
    WA -

    Assume you're talking about ILF rigs, right? 0/0 should be fine, but 1/8" lower limb strong (shorter brace) is more common for both split and 3 under. Measure the brace height where the limbs exit the riser pocket and then give the upper limb bolt 1/2 turn in. It's counter intuitive, but works. (You can try it with either limb bolt to check it for yourself, just mark the bolts so you can return to baseline if you have to.) You may or may not have to retune the nocking point.

    That's how I set the tiller on new bows and when I have to adjust the weight to tune for a specific arrow, I just make sure I turn both bolts the same amount.

    Viper1 out.
    “Simple and innocent, however, as it (the bow) appears, and capable as it is of being a trusty friend and ally, a bow is at the same time a watchful enemy, ready to take advantage of the smallest slight.”

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    5,342
    Tillering for a specific release will, on some bows, affect bow noise. It gives you more tuning lee-way when the bow is tillered for your type release.

    If there was no point in it, then companies like Hoyt (adjustable riser), Black Widow, Chek-Mate, etc. wouldn't offer it.

    Bow noise isn't usually a big deal to a target shooter, but it means a lot to those of us that hunt. Most of us spend as much time tuning for silence as we do tuning for arrow flight--every little bit helps.

    Chad
    Support the Future of Archery--Support the NASP

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Shermans Dale, PA
    Posts
    439
    Lots of bows are noisy even when tuned correctly, I shot a Colt Firearms
    (made by Wing)one piece recurve for field & indoors in the late 60s, and it was the worst bow for noise I ever shot. I did everything I could, brace height, strings, etc., and still it made shooters beside me jump when I shot. I didn't know about putting two 8 strand wool yarn puffs in the string to quiet it down back then. Now every bow I shoot has them, both recurve and longbows, even my OLY style risers and ILF limbs. I don't hunt anymore, and only hunted small game & birds/fish with a bow, so the noise only bothered/bothers me.. Guys like Chad who hunt all the time, need quiet bows, me, I just like quiet target & 3-D bows and now know how to do it.. Bill G.
    Didn't mean to hijack this tillering thread.
    Instinctor since 1958
    Shermans Dale, PA
    The older I get, the faster I was

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Nw ohio
    Posts
    727
    Thanks for the answers. I just wondered if it would benefit me to go with one designed for 3 under. Not going to worry about it now. As i mentioned, it seems to work fine on my recurves. Noise doesn't seem to be a factor, at least not to my ears.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    1,948
    Quote Originally Posted by Viper1 View Post
    WA -

    Assume you're talking about ILF rigs, right? 0/0 should be fine, but 1/8" lower limb strong (shorter brace) is more common for both split and 3 under. Measure the brace height where the limbs exit the riser pocket and then give the upper limb bolt 1/2 turn in. It's counter intuitive, but works. (You can try it with either limb bolt to check it for yourself, just mark the bolts so you can return to baseline if you have to.) You may or may not have to retune the nocking point.

    That's how I set the tiller on new bows and when I have to adjust the weight to tune for a specific arrow, I just make sure I turn both bolts the same amount.

    Viper1 out.
    ya, ILF rig, but I'm gonna leave it, I can now hit a bottle cap at 20 yards 1 outta 5 times, the rest are REAL close. Not gonna mess up a good thing.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •