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Thread: Big/Lifted/Jacked-Up/Mud Tires TRUCKS! show me your pics and help.

  1. #1

    Big/Lifted/Jacked-Up/Mud Tires TRUCKS! show me your pics and help.

    thanks.



    I want my 02 4wd 5.3ltr V8 Chevy tahoe to look like this one.

    I know hardly anything about lifting trucks, tires & wheel combos and would like some guidance and to see your hunting 4wd trucks.

    What do I need to turn a stock tahoe into this:


  2. #2
    about 5k-7k dollars to do it right, not worth it IMO, the truck will definetely will not be worth anywhere close to that when you go to sell it, but I have had a lot of jacked up trucks, and they are awesome, you loose you @$$ on em but they looks you get are sometimes worth it.

  3. #3
    dang it cost that much? im keeping the truck forever, just paid it off, even have a spare motor so lay it on me. what kind of lift kit, size wheels and tires and all. i also have to replace the tires and shocks anyway, so it will cost me one way or another. also, it doesnt have to be as high as the picture above, but something that will fit those wheels and tires. is that a 6 inch lift above? or more? thanks.

  4. #4
    I have never lifted an independent suspension vehicle, but i have lifted solid axle trucks before. Instead of turning the family vehicle into a lifted mudder, why not get an older pickup and lift it, then turn that into a mudder, thats what i would do.
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  5. #5

  6. #6
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    Brandon, along with a lift kit, you're gonna need new driveshafts to do it right, and you're gonna want to turn the axles eversoslightly to get the right angle. Don't turn the axles and you'll be one of those guys draggin a driveshaft because you bust U-Joints all the time. I had a '92 Ford with an 8" lift on it, oversized driveshafts, turned axles, 4-wheel posi-lock, and the whole 9 yds. I got 8mpg town and 10-11 on the road, but that was back when gas was (GET THIS) $.68/gal when I was living in GA!!!! I had a LOT of fun in that truck, but what it would cost today, I'm willing to bet would be closer to $4k or so. You'll need new shocks, and U-bolts, and maybe different springs, etc. I'd agree with the above poster, I'm not sure it's worth it to got to those lengths. A modest 4" or even maybe a 6" is plenty. Get an Off-Roader or 4x4 magazine, last time I looked at them, they had Lift Kit prices that were all inclusive.
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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Arrow_slinger43 View Post
    I have never lifted an independent suspension vehicle, but i have lifted solid axle trucks before. Instead of turning the family vehicle into a lifted mudder, why not get an older pickup and lift it, then turn that into a mudder, thats what i would do.
    haha.. this aint no family vehicle trust that! this is a hunting truck and trailer puller! im single and 26.. i love my toys. but... as stated above, the truck is just paid off and i have to get new shocks and tires either way, and i have a spare crate motor. 'nuff said!

    i dont need a full mudder, i just want my truck lifted, with bigger black wheels and mud tires. i go offroad a little, heck i drive down nothing but dirt roads every single day, but im not out 4 wheeling and trying to get stuck. this is still a daily driver, but maybe 40 miles per day max. thanks guys.

    is this what i need?
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUSPE...Q5fAccessories

    how high can i go without changing drive shafts and all? would a body lift be the way to go?

  8. #8
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    the taho in the picture looks like it has 35" tires with 19 or 20" wheels which is some $$ on its own (probably 1,800). a six inch lift will probably run you about 2,000 on top of that along with your custom drive shafts and that kinda thing. 6 or 7 grand isn't an outrageous guess. you can find most of what you need at www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com if you still wanna spend the $$.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by brandon1008 View Post
    haha.. this aint no family vehicle trust that! this is a hunting truck and trailer puller! im single and 26.. i love my toys. but... as stated above, the truck is just paid off and i have to get new shocks and tires either way, and i have a spare crate motor. 'nuff said!

    i dont need a full mudder, i just want my truck lifted, with bigger black wheels and mud tires. i go offroad a little, heck i drive down nothing but dirt roads every single day, but im not out 4 wheeling and trying to get stuck. this is still a daily driver, but maybe 40 miles per day max. thanks guys.

    is this what i need?
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUSPE...Q5fAccessories

    how high can i go without changing drive shafts and all? would a body lift be the way to go?
    that might work for your lift but i wouldnt go through ebay

    you could probably do a 3" body lift but no higher. that would probably let you run 33s without rubbing.

  10. #10
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    sorry to tell you this but as far as rigs that are worth lifting yours is at the bottom of the pile, i have had two lifted IFS chebbys and you can pretty much plan on changing ball joints and all parts of the steering componetry on a tri-monthly basis, the suspension on the half ton chevys was not make for tires any bigger than can be fit on the truck with no lift and even that is questionable. if you want the truck to rock and would like to keep it forever do a straight axle swap on the truck, start by finding a ball joint dana 60 from a ford, i wanna say 95 or newer f350 but NOT SUPERDUTY they use a metric bolt pattern with a useless sealed bearing hub, not 250 as they are that funny ford hybrd ifs which name escapes me. it has to be a ford due to that fact that you have a drivers side transfer case drop. ford is the only one. now our front suspension has to be completely cut off and new stuff welded on, your best bet is just go with leaf springs no matter who tells you that a coil over/coil/four link system with be better, it wont unless you happen to own your own 4x4 shop and have a degree in engineering of physics. so get some lift leaf springs from a dodge or a ford or something like that that measures what you want and weld them up, make steering arms, brake lines, front drive shaft and your golden. now junk yard yourself a rear end from a 3/4ton surburban, this will bolt right up and give you the strength for big tires and will match the 8 lug pattern. so if your pretty good in the shop and can weld and use a square and some common sense your good for maybe the 2K range before you buy wheels and tires, this will cost you 9-10K at the local 4x fab shop.

    but no matter what the tire store offers to install as far as an IFS lift the only thing it will be good for is a street truck that wears out parts way too fast, and eats 400$ a piece tires. if you take it off road you WILL break parts, even in very light wheeling. your tahoe is better offroad stock than with an IFS lift.

    a straight axel truck with mild tires 35-38" range will drive great and if you pick the gears in the axels you buy right will still get fairly good mpg

    that said, check out the chevy section on pirate4x4.com and see some very cool custom rigs, beware however that is a pretty rough site as far as language and such.

    a few things to note, lifting your truck will NOT make it worth less money, quite the contrary, i have bought, lifted, and sold trucks just to make a side $$ or two.

    I am currently just finishing up with a 73 scout with a 6bt cummins and 1 ton axels, should be rollin black smoke and turning 37s before fall. if this dammm wedding doesnt get in the way of my fundage. so i may be in the same boat as the guy who commented about getting an older truck, i have done late model chevys dodges and fords and finally decided that when you have to change everything anyway an older truck is a lot less hassel

  11. #11
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    TTB = twin traction beam, that is what ford called there half and 3/4 ton ifs suspensions

  12. #12
    Here is my rig 2008 Chevy 2500 duramax 8" lift on 35's and 20's

    cognitomotorsports.com is pretty much the best lift for IFS trucks and you can upgrade all the week stock IFS stuff. My lift has been on over a year and haven't had one problem. If I had to do it over again I'd swap in a solid front axle in the front.

    Anytime someone see's the truck its always i bet you get really bad gas mileage, and I always laugh. I get 20 on the highway and 16-17 in the city but this is only because its diesel and I have a PPE programmer.

    Oh and the truck puts down 445 to the wheels and 9xx tq



  13. #13
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    Well, as I usually say when I see one all jacked up........."yep, that is one jacked up truck".
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by KansasKiller View Post
    about 5k-7k dollars to do it right, not worth it IMO, the truck will definetely will not be worth anywhere close to that when you go to sell it, but I have had a lot of jacked up trucks, and they are awesome, you loose you @$$ on em but they looks you get are sometimes worth it.
    Yep. get a truck with solid axle front end and you can do it WAY cheaper and it will be more dependable and tougher. That means for the chevy suv, a suburban in 1991 or older and a pickup in 1987 or older.

  15. #15
    dang... you talked me out of it...
    thanks for the info. any ideas on wheels and tires at the stock height?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by brandon1008 View Post
    dang... you talked me out of it...

    go to gmfullsize.com and be talked back into it....

    I have a 99 Hoe.......on 265's now with stock rims...

    It will be paid off soon (bought it used and I am poor!)...... once it is, I am going to add a mild lift (maybe a 2 inch body/crank or short kit) and run 33's...maybe 35's..........on black steelie Rockcrawlers..
    PSE Archery * Trophy Ridge * Rocket Aeroheads * Vortex Optics * The Buck Bomb * Under Armour * John's Custom Strings * DLC Covert Cameras

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by brandon1008 View Post
    dang... you talked me out of it...
    thanks for the info. any ideas on wheels and tires at the stock height?
    I have about 6k in mine but I also put on the lift myself and have every upgrade you can get on the IFS. you can get the lift for under 2k but when you start adding extras it gets expensive. I also have 3k in the rims and tires. So if you wanted to go the cheap route you could easily do it for 2-3k depending what kind of rims and tires you want.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by why3zx View Post
    sorry to tell you this but as far as rigs that are worth lifting yours is at the bottom of the pile, i have had two lifted IFS chebbys and you can pretty much plan on changing ball joints and all parts of the steering componetry on a tri-monthly basis, the suspension on the half ton chevys was not make for tires any bigger than can be fit on the truck with no lift and even that is questionable. if you want the truck to rock and would like to keep it forever do a straight axle swap on the truck, start by finding a ball joint dana 60 from a ford, i wanna say 95 or newer f350 but NOT SUPERDUTY they use a metric bolt pattern with a useless sealed bearing hub, not 250 as they are that funny ford hybrd ifs which name escapes me. it has to be a ford due to that fact that you have a drivers side transfer case drop. ford is the only one. now our front suspension has to be completely cut off and new stuff welded on, your best bet is just go with leaf springs no matter who tells you that a coil over/coil/four link system with be better, it wont unless you happen to own your own 4x4 shop and have a degree in engineering of physics. so get some lift leaf springs from a dodge or a ford or something like that that measures what you want and weld them up, make steering arms, brake lines, front drive shaft and your golden. now junk yard yourself a rear end from a 3/4ton surburban, this will bolt right up and give you the strength for big tires and will match the 8 lug pattern. so if your pretty good in the shop and can weld and use a square and some common sense your good for maybe the 2K range before you buy wheels and tires, this will cost you 9-10K at the local 4x fab shop.

    but no matter what the tire store offers to install as far as an IFS lift the only thing it will be good for is a street truck that wears out parts way too fast, and eats 400$ a piece tires. if you take it off road you WILL break parts, even in very light wheeling. your tahoe is better offroad stock than with an IFS lift.

    a straight axel truck with mild tires 35-38" range will drive great and if you pick the gears in the axels you buy right will still get fairly good mpg

    that said, check out the chevy section on pirate4x4.com and see some very cool custom rigs, beware however that is a pretty rough site as far as language and such.

    a few things to note, lifting your truck will NOT make it worth less money, quite the contrary, i have bought, lifted, and sold trucks just to make a side $$ or two.

    I am currently just finishing up with a 73 scout with a 6bt cummins and 1 ton axels, should be rollin black smoke and turning 37s before fall. if this dammm wedding doesnt get in the way of my fundage. so i may be in the same boat as the guy who commented about getting an older truck, i have done late model chevys dodges and fords and finally decided that when you have to change everything anyway an older truck is a lot less hassel
    Lots of wisdom in this post!!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYBowhunter911 View Post
    go to gmfullsize.com and be talked back into it....

    I have a 99 Hoe.......on 265's now with stock rims...

    It will be paid off soon (bought it used and I am poor!)...... once it is, I am going to add a mild lift (maybe a 2 inch body/crank or short kit) and run 33's...maybe 35's..........on black steelie Rockcrawlers..
    Take a look at the website above that Dan posted....
    Like he told me one time " gmfullsize.com is like truck porn"
    There's a ton of good info on that site about lifting all GM's and the different kits & methods you can use.
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  20. #20
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by J-Daddy View Post
    Take a look at the website above that Dan posted....
    Like he told me one time " gmfullsize.com is like truck porn"
    There's a ton of good info on that site about lifting all GM's and the different kits & methods you can use.

    LOL...yeah...but they can be a little rough to n00bs...hell - they are beating me up over some silly tire size questions lately...

    I am putting thr 33's on within the month...on black Cragar Soft 8's....

    NEXT year I will spring for the bigger lift and the 35's...
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  21. #21
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    personally, with all due respect to yall...this is just my opinion and i know no one shares it really but...

    lifted trucks are dumb, a waste of money, and look stupid
    it also makes it harder to load stuff onto it cuz u gotta lift it higher..
    lowers the resale...makes it less stable...

    just my opinion

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowboy6532 View Post
    personally, with all due respect to yall...this is just my opinion and i know no one shares it really but...

    lifted trucks are dumb, a waste of money, and look stupid
    it also makes it harder to load stuff onto it cuz u gotta lift it higher..
    lowers the resale...makes it less stable...

    just my opinion

    Wow thanks for that usefull post, it was a real big help in this thread.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-Daddy View Post
    Wow thanks for that usefull post, it was a real big help in this thread.
    haha, glad to be so helpful

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowboy6532 View Post
    haha, glad to be so helpful
    You did a good job...
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-Daddy View Post
    You did a good job...
    thanks again, good to see all the friendly, non saracastic posts on this thread =]

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