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Selecting a Riser Size and Limb sizes?

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MaceHowling

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Can someone help me understand the reasoning to choose a particular riser size over another? And how to choose proper limb sizes to pair with a particular riser size? Pros and cons of each?

Thanks,
MaceHowling

Skill level - beginner
Gear needs - Looking for something I can grow into and not have to replace too quickly (if possible)
 
#2 ·
Primarily, riser length and limb length are dependant upon your draw length. There is a matrix of combinations possible now with the available lengths. The reason why you need the bow size to your draw length is so you do not experience string pinch and pressure upon your fingers more than you have to, while gaining the most efficient energy return to the shot. That said, some people deliberately shoot a bow that isn't the generic 'right' length for them so they can either pick up some more speed/power or make the bow feel nicer to shoot.

we can look at the generic case of a 28" draw length

A short riser (23") and short limbs produces a 64" bow
A long riser (27") and long limbs produces a 72" bow

A 28" draw is generally recommended to be at a 68" bow.

You can get a 68" bow from:

Short riser + long limbs
Medium riser + medium limbs
Long riser + short limbs

The S+L will be the slowest at the same draw weight on the fingers at full draw
The L+S will be the fastest at the same draw weight on the fingers at full draw
The string angle will actually be slightly different as the limb flex will be different, where the L+S will be slightly narrower and push on the top and bottom of the draw fingers more.

So it really comes down to your needs and shooting preferences.
 
#4 ·
Depends completely on the particular limb you choose, assuming all the risers have the same geometry. These days, changing the geometry of the risers is all in fashion, so there are a few (Hoyt HPX and SKY Conquest Advantage) that will make the limbs work a little more and induce the feeling of "stack" sooner in the draw. That's not a bad thing so long as your draw length doesn't reach the point at which the limbs begin to stack.

As a general rule, with a 28" draw, nearly all 68" bows will feel very smooth to you. You could even shoot a 66" bow if you wanted.

John
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
I noticed that terms like fast or slow are being used to describe limbs and riser+ limbs setups. Is that personal preference as well or do I want one over another? Would I want a faster limb or setup if I am shooting a longer distance or doing field archery?
 
#6 ·
Yes. But fast or slow is determined by a lot of things. Not just riser/limb combination. You can shoot heavier or lighter arrows to change speeds too.

Depending on the distance from your eye to your jawline, your draw length and the amount of draw weight you're able to shoot, you may have trouble reaching your furthest distance on your sight, or not. Only way to know this is to try. Every single person is unique.

John
 
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#7 ·
Typically, there is always a balance act happening. A faster bow setup means to get arrows to tune, you need stiffer arrows, which are heavier, which then you don't get much elevation advantage. But, the reason why people are interested in having faster setups is so that you can shoot that heavier arrow which gives you environmental advantages against the wind.
 
#10 ·
I have a 29" DL and I'm looking at the 25" Sebastion Flute Premium riser. I'm also considering the Black Max limbs. Does that appear to be a good match for me?
 
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#11 ·
rembrandt, The black max limbs by tradtech come in long, medium and short lengths. From what I have gathered, a 29" draw with a 25" riser would best be suited with mediums or longs to make a 68" or 70" bow.


Also, which black max are you looing at, they have carbon and glass? You may want to look at other wood/glass or wood/carbon limbs out there. I hear a lot of people talking about samick privilege or the SF axiom.
 
#12 ·
Hello from Alberta Canada.

I returned to traditional archery last year after a 36 year of compound bows.

I picked up a frugal price PSE Razorback @ 35 lbs,,, the time has come to up grade.

I'm looking at risers in the $100 to $200 Cnd funds that accept the LIF fit limbs.

28 1/2" draw with 38 lb limbs to start, then up grade from there. I see there are lots to choose from on the Lancaster archery page.

My plan is target shooting with no sights since I've been practicing this way last year. Then step it up from there.

So I'm looking for a riser brand that will get me off to a good start, and one that can serve me for years after that.

Something that won't brake the bank.

Don
 
#13 ·
I wish I would of found this before returning to the Recurve archery.

https://www.soutdoors.com/best-recurve-bow/

Don't get me wrong, the PSE Razorback bow I picked up happened to be a good thing, it is allowing me to get my body form set-up up to speed.

I questioned the 35 lb limbs at first since it was hard to pull back, after reading the above article,,, I soon realize that my 28 1/2" draw is to much for the 62" Razorback.

According to the chart I see that a 68" to 70" draw would be a better choice,,, unless I'm missing something.

I'll find out soon enough once I chat with my archey friend on proper fit.
 
#14 ·
I'm on my way to Calgary Alberta to check out what the archery pro shop has in stock down there.

It looks like they have a good selection of Olympic Recurve Bow risers at a reasonable price, and a chance to see what the mid range traditional bow folks are shooting down there.

The plan is to keep costs in the mid range category being year number two of returning to traditional archery.

IBF Riser, limbs, string, switch over my spring/ plunger rest, a yost 3 under tab, and no sights.

I started off with 30 lb limbs, so I'll bump it up 4 lbs for my practic limbs, then add a 38/40 lb set later.

Improving the system in steps and keeping the funds in check at the same time. The nice thing about the pro shop idea is, I'll end up working with a bow that fits me.

Western Canada Don
 
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