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odoylerules

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Need some help/advice on the creep tune of my bow. I have a 2012 Vantage Elite plus, 28.5 DL, 54lbs, GTX cams. I set out to creep tune it by putting a horizontal peice of tape on the target at 20 yards. Pulled super hard into the wall, shot a 3 shot group. All arrows hit exactly on the bottom of the tape. Then 3 "creep" shots, as far into the front of the valley as I could and they all hit way high. 6-8" high of the hard wall shots. What ive read said to shorten/tighten the bottom cam. I did in half twist increments, and re-shot. It took several full turns to get them to hit within an inch of the hard wall shots. My top cam is now way in front of the bottom. A good 1/4 inch. The bow feels so different. I really dont like how spongy the wall is now. It takes a lot of force to keep it pulled back against the wall now too. I know slight top cam advanced is common, but this is a bit extreme to me.
Is this correct? Is this the end result im looking for? Or is something off somewhere else.
 
#3 ·
It really bothers me when people start taking about "creep" tuning. Why would you want to shoot a bow improperly????? Creep tuning is old school, done with bows that had huge valleys----today's bows do not have that valley and never were intended to be shot that way. These bows today are "made" to be shot fully into the wall, this is the way they were intended to be shot and tuned. If you can not fully hold into the wall thru the shot and execute the shot properly then I would suggest you get the bow properly set up to you in draw length.
I would suggest you get your bow back in time/tune, make very sure your draw length is correct and then sight the bow in.
 
#4 ·
Dale_B1 said:
It really bothers me when people start taking about "creep" tuning. Why would you want to shoot a bow improperly????? Creep tuning is old school, done with bows that had huge valleys----today's bows do not have that valley and never were intended to be shot that way. These bows today are "made" to be shot fully into the wall, this is the way they were intended to be shot and tuned. If you can not fully hold into the wall thru the shot and execute the shot properly then I would suggest you get the bow properly set up to you in draw length.
I would suggest you get your bow back in time/tune, make very sure your draw length is correct and then sight the bow in.
Click to expand...
Creep tuning works on hybrids as well as it does dual cams, Dale. But it shouldn't be called creep tuning since it's done the other way. You actually shoot from the valley then hard into the stops, which forces one cam to continue to rotate showing that it's lagging. That lag will show up in POI, so it's easy to diagnose and adjust it out.

Why do it? Better nock travel and it eliminates the high/low shots when making weaker shots, like during a long shooting session.
 
#5 ·
Well Dale is kind of right in the sense that hybrid cams are not meant to be creep tuned in this manner.

BUT there is certainly nothing wrong with doing it. You just have to use the correct method of doing it.

The method your using is for a TRUE dual cam bow. Your bow does not fall into this category. When creep tuning hybrid cams you actually do NOT creep with them. You shoot your normal shot and then shoot pulling hard into the wall. These are the only two steps in the process. If you do a search I am sure you will find the procedures.

If not send me a PM and I will send the to you when I get home this evening.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#6 ·
Buster of Xs said:
Creep tuning works on hybrids as well as it does dual cams, Dale. But it shouldn't be called creep tuning since it's done the other way. You actually shoot from the valley then hard into the stops, which forces one cam to continue to rotate showing that it's lagging. That lag will show up in POI, so it's easy to diagnose and adjust it out.

Why do it? Better nock travel and it eliminates the high/low shots when making weaker shots, like during a long shooting session.
Click to expand...
Buster I will disagree all day long on shooting "today's" bows from the valley. How many people do you actually know that with a properly timed bow can shoot from a valley that for all practical purpose is so short it is virtually impossible to hold in that short of distance. That is the very reason people complain about bows wanting to take off on them-----because they can't hold it there. Again these bows are designed today to be held fully into the wall all the way through the shot process.
 
#7 ·
Dale_B1 said:
Buster I will disagree all day long on shooting "today's" bows from the valley. How many people do you actually know that with a properly timed bow can shoot from a valley that for all practical purpose is so short it is virtually impossible to hold in that short of distance. That is the very reason people complain about bows wanting to take off on them-----because they can't hold it there. Again these bows are designed today to be held fully into the wall all the way through the shot process.
Click to expand...
And I agree that they should be shot from the wall. If you're making strong BT shots that's the only option. But that's also why creep tuning hybrids is important, since those strong shots will place the POI at one spot and weaker shots, like after 100 shots on league night, will be hitting above or below the strong ones.

And FWIW most of today's bowhunters do try to shoot from the valley and make weak shots. It's why you see so many posts about Hoyts having narrow valleys and they have issues with it. I only shoot a hinge release and put Spirals on my bows, so you know I don't shoot from the valley. But that's why I creep tune my bows, too.
 
#8 ·
I love it when you guys debate this stuff! This is when I get the best understanding of that particular topic. Kind of entertaining too!

ironic ? smart cars look stupid..
 
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#10 ·
Buster of Xs said:
Arguing? This is a discussion, not an argument. It's not an argument until I drop an F-bomb. :lol:
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I said debate. There's a difference!
ironic ? smart cars look stupid..
 
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#11 ·
Creep tuning with pulling hard into the wall and normal shots is something I was missing. Now that I have done it my consistency has went up. It is a measurable improvement. If you can measure the improvement by the grouping of your arrows then I don't see how anyone can be against it.
 
#12 ·
pacsport said:
I said debate. There's a difference!
ironic ? smart cars look stupid..
Click to expand...
In that case you're good and I won't give you an F-bomb. :wink:

But it really isn't a debate anyway. Dale's just wrong and creep tuning hybrids is a good thing to do. It only takes a couple minutes and is worth every second and then some.
 
#13 ·
Beentown said:
Creep tuning with pulling hard into the wall and normal shots is something I was missing. Now that I have done it my consistency has went up. It is a measurable improvement. If you can measure the improvement by the grouping of your arrows then I don't see how anyone can be against it.
Click to expand...
I've been working on my release lately. Isn't pulling hard into the wall the release you have when working it as back tension as aposed To just pulling the trigger? If so I could see this helping me out.

ironic ? smart cars look stupid..
 
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#14 ·
If you're making strong backtension shots then you're pulling into the wall. But you can't creep tune a single cam or a binary. Only hybrids and dual cams can be creep tuned. With others you're just stuck with what you've got since the cable takeup and payout tracks are kind of fixed where they are in relation to one another.
 
#15 ·
Buster of Xs said:
If you're making strong backtension shots then you're pulling into the wall. But you can't creep tune a single cam or a binary. Only hybrids and dual cams can be creep tuned. With others you're just stuck with what you've got since the cable takeup and payout tracks are kind of fixed where they are in relation to one another.
Click to expand...
Got it, I learn something new everyday!

ironic ? smart cars look stupid..
 
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#16 ·
I'd go back to where you had it and check your tiller. Make sure you're getting good holes through paper and then creep tune again. Hopefully that'll get you closer so you don't have to be so out of wack to get a decent creep group.
 
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